Hike: Mountains-to-sea, Craggy Gardens to Balsam Gap
Date: June 10, 2000
Miles: 9
Difficulty: easy to moderate
companions: Christy, Saucony, Bob, and Laura
Features: Outstanding views, blooming rhododendron, laurel, and azalea, south beyond 6000 peak
Negatives: thorns, crowds around Craggy Gardens
Hike Start: Craggy Gardens visitor center. BRP MP 365
Hike end: Balsam Gap, BRP MP 360
Weather: Hot, humid, hazy
Directions to Trailhead:
I-40 west to East Asheville exit, right, then left on 70. Go 1 mile + to BRP, turn right, then left onto Parkway. Head north about 15 miles To Craggy Gardens visitor center (and bathrooms) on left. 15 minute shuttle to Balsam Gap.
Bob & Laura joined Christy, Saucony and I for a mostly pleasant hike in the Craggy Mountains on Saturday. When we reached the trailhead, we were shocked by the heat. We were well over 5000' in elevation, but it was at least 80 degrees. By the time we started up the first hill, we were already sweating.
We planned to hike across Craggy Gardens to the Mountains-to-sea trail, then head back to the north to Balsam Gap, where we'd left a car. As we climbed up through the all natural gardens, we were pleased to see that much of the rhododendron was in bloom. However, most of the shrubs were just coming out. It appeared to be a good week away from peak bloom.
We hiked down from the gardens, passing through a tunnel of flame azalea along the way. Eventually we reached the Craggy Gardens picnic area, and our junction with the MST. However, the original MST, as shown on my map and description, was closed. To our surprise, the trail had been re-routed - back the way we came. We didn't want to backtrack, so we bypassed around the closed area and searched for the original trail on the far side.
We found an old road that was heading in the right direction. We followed it, onto what appeared to be the original trail route. However, the old road quickly narrowed to a path, and then virtually disappeared into a thicket of briars. The heat was obviously having an impact on our brains, as we decided against turning back and pressed on. The path was still there, under the vegetation, but the thorns made for a miserable hike.
30 minutes and a pint of blood later we connected with the re-routed trail. It was a huge relief - I had been having visions of having to turn back. The next few miles was much more pleasant, as we hiked through cool, shady woods. We enjoyed a short lunch in the shade, before finally reaching the Parkway once again. We crossed, and climbed up to a gap on the Craggies ridgeline. Here we proved ourselves slow learners, as we decided to attempt a side trip up to 6000' Craggy Dome. There was no official trail, but a faint bushwhacking path made the climb easier.
We climbed steeply up through thickets of rhododendron in full bloom. Near the top, we got a nice view to the north along the crest of the Craggies, with the Black Mountains visible in the distance. The top of Craggy Dome was covered in more rhododendron, which was just beginning to bloom. From here the views were more limited, but we were able to see southwest back toward Craggy Gardens, where we had started 4 hours earlier.
We returned to the MST, and hiked 4 more miles north along the crest of the Craggies. Although we were very close to the Parkway, we couldn't see or hear traffic during most of the hike. We passed through a variety of forest, including spruce / fir, and enjoyed views from Grassy Balds and rock outcrops. The best of these was along the summit of Walnut Mountain. The views of the Asheville Watershed, Bullhead Mountain, The Seven Sisters, Greybeard, Rocky Knobs, Pinnacle, and the Black Mountains were unbelievable. We spent a full 45 minutes here, lounging in the sun.
It was a nice hike, and our flesh wounds are healing nicely. I'm already planning our next adventure in the area.
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