ANOTHER HIDDEN GEM

Last weekend was my wife’s birthday, but she was kind enough to let me off the leash for one day so I could get a training hike in. I contemplated my mental list of “really hard hikes”, and Heartbreak Ridge came to mind. The route climbs nearly 4000’ from near Andrew’s Geyser, outside Old Fort, to the summit of the Pinnacle, which caps Seven Sisters Ridge.

Although difficult, the hike is absolutely beautiful. The ridge offers numerous views, but the really spectacular scenery waits at the top of The Pinnacle. There, the weary hiker is rewarded with a nearly 360 degree vista that includes a dramatic view of Mount Mitchell. Aside from the views, the trail also offers wildflower-lovers a real treat. In May blooming shrubs turn the trail into a pink and white tunnel.

Despite all these outstanding features, the trail isn’t well-known. I’m not sure why, although the difficulty of the route probably has something to do with it. Still, I’ve now hiked it three times, and I’ve never seen another person. Last weekend, I hiked it on a beautiful, sunny 70-degree Saturday at the peak of the wildflower bloom. Somehow, I had it all to myself. I’ll have to add this hike to my ever-growing list of “the greatest hikes in the Carolinas you’ve never heard of”.

I made it to the trailhead in under 2 hours. I drove to Old Fort, and followed the signs from downtown towards the Old Fort Picnic Area. At the picnic area, I turned right, heading up the road past Andrew’s Geyser. Beyond the geyser, one more right turn led to a bridge and a Baptist Church. Just beyond the church, a rough dirt road heads uphill to the right. Since I don’t have high-clearance 4WD, I parked there, and Saucony and I began our hike. On this occasion, I chose to carry 2 gallons of water. I mainly brought the extra water to make my pack heavier for training purposes. Also, I knew there wouldn’t be many water sources along the way, so I’d have plenty of extra water for Saucony.

We walked up the road to the railroad tracks, where the road ends. This road may be on private property, but it isn’t posted. We crossed over the tracks, and picked up the signed and yellow-blazed Heartbreak Ridge Trail. We followed the path into a dark forest, passing a large camping area far below. A few minutes later, we found ourselves hiking along Pritchard Creek, which is well-shaded by dense Rhododendron. I rock hopped the stream, and reached a junction at a campsite. A trail continues from here along Pritchard Creek to more campsites. Unfortunately, the Heartbreak Ridge Trail leaves the stream all too soon in favor of switchbacks. The warm-up was over, and the climb was about to begin.

The switchbacks were steady but not steep, and I was distracted from the climb by the beauty of the forest. The trail tunnels through dense thickets of Rosebay Rhododendron and Mountain Laurel. Today, the Rosebay Rhododendron had past its peak at the lower elevations, but the Mountain Laurel was in full bloom. Higher up, the Rosebay Rhododendron looked nicer, while the Mountain Laurel was just starting to bloom. Even farther up the mountain, Catawba Rhododendron and Flame Azalea added even more color to the trail. I’m pretty sure this is the first time I’ve seen Rosebay Rhododendron, Mountain Laurel, Catawba Rhododendron, and Flame Azalea all blooming along the same trail at the same time.

The climb was reasonable, but the hike was more challenging thanks to several deadfalls blocking the trail. Most were passable without much difficulty, but one was hopeless. The trees fell right across a switchback, and I had no choice but to cut up the slope to regain the trail above the blockage.

The switchbacks ended at a gap on the ridge. I was making decent time, so I took a side trip down a rough path along the ridge to an overlook. There are “No Trespassing” signs along this path, but it appears that they mark the property to the east, below the ridgeline. After 5 minutes, I reached a cliff. Far below, I could see the railroad tracks I had crossed earlier emerging from a tunnel in the side of the mountain. Across from me, the green wall of the Eastern Continental Divide marched up into the blue sky, where The Pinnacle waited for me. I love being able to see my destination from the trail, but on this occasion, the summit looked awfully far away.

After a brief break, I returned to the main trail and began to climb the ridge. In short order, I passed a trail that descends east toward Starr Gap and Camp Grier. Then I began the climb towards Licklog Knob. Contrary to the map, the trail actually skirts the west side of Licklog Knob, sparing me some unnecessary climbing. From this area, I had some additional views north and west. After a brief descent, I began climbing the ridge again.

The climb continued, and I passed another good view from an overlook. Beyond were more switchbacks, as well as a couple of springs and a small stream hidden in a thicket. Soon I left the blooming shrubs behind, as I gained elevation. I passed a final viewpoint, where I was treated to another look at Greybeard Mountain and The Pinnacle. I was closer now, but I still had some work to do.

Just beyond this overlook I reached a junction with a primitive trail out Iron Ridge. I’ve never hiked this trail, although it’s been on my “to-do” list for about 10 years. There is an unmarked signpost here, but hikers heading the other way need to be careful to avoid wandering out Iron Ridge.

From the junction, I climbed along the ridge to a small clearing at an old homesite. At this point, the Heartbreak Ridge Trail continues through the woods before descending to the Parkway. I left the path there, in favor of an old jeep road leading west through the grassy clearing towards The Pinnacle. Most of this route is very rocky and unpleasant to hike, but the Painted Trillium along the road made it more appealing. Finally I climbed to a junction with The Old Toll Road, where I found a spring, two old RV’s, and a lot of junk. This area is used by bear hunters, and it was a bit of an eyesore after a very scenic hike. Fortunately, the best was still to come.

I hiked north on the Old Toll Road, passing another RV and a hunting cabin. Just beyond the cabin is a gate. A faint path heads up the mountain from here, but it isn’t the best route. I continued north along the Old Toll Road another 100 yards, passing another gated road heading down to the right. Just beyond, I reached a grassy shoulder on the right side of the road. To the left, I followed a narrow jeep track to a campsite. From the campsite, I picked up a footpath heading up the mountain.

I’ve never seen this trail on any map, but it’s a decent path. I wound around the steep hillside, passing under a canopy of spruce trees. Along the way, I passed dozens of Red Trillium, but most were long past their prime. Near the summit, the route steepened, but I was able to work my way around the right side of some cliffs. Moments later, I popped out of the heath crowning most of the peak onto an exposed rock outcrop.

Wow! I’ve been on The Pinnacle many times, but the view never fails to make my jaw drop. I gazed out over the Asheville Watershed, towards the rugged cliffs of the Craggy Mountains. Beyond, waves of blue mountains were lost in the haze. To my right, I had an “in your face” view of Mount Mitchell, the highest peak in the Eastern United States. To the east, I could see the sharp spires of Table Rock and Hawksbill looming over Linville Gorge.

I had lunch and relaxed on the summit for an hour. I needed to head back to get home in time for dinner, but it was a hard place to leave. Eventually I pried myself away, and headed back down the mountain. The return hike was uneventful, I reached the trailhead at 6pm, more than 8 hours after I started my hike. Heartbreak Ridge had provided exactly what I had been looking for – a tough workout, fantastic wildflowers, and incredible views on a lovely spring day.

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