PILLAR OF DAVIDSON

 

 

Have you noticed that it seems to rain every weekend?  That’s been wrecking havoc with my recent backpacking plans.  Last week, the initial forecast for the weekend looked awful.  As the days went on though, it began to look like there might be a window of dry weather on Friday and Saturday.  This was convenient, as my job assignment that week finished on Thursday.  By the time Thursday afternoon rolled around, the forecast for Friday and Saturday called for mainly cloudy skies, with only a slight chance of scattered storms.  That sounded good to me, and I hastily began packing my gear for another last-minute trip.

 

With the cloudy forecast, I decided to do a trip into the Davidson River headwaters.  The route I designed would take me to a number of waterfalls.  I was hoping that the cloudy skies would present good conditions for photography.  The trip I planned started and ended at the Pisgah Fish Hatchery, on the Davidson River.  From there, I would hike upstream, before making a brief diversion over to Cove Creek Falls.  From there, I would utilize a series of trails and old logging roads to regain the Davidson River farther upstream.  From that point, the Farlow Gap Trail would take me across several of the river’s highest tributaries before leading me to the Art Loeb Trail.  I would then follow the Art Loeb over Pilot Mountain and continue all the way back to Butter Gap.  From there, I would have an easy hike back to the fish hatchery.

 

Last week was a bad one for Saucony.  She didn’t eat all week, and she was very lethargic Thursday when I returned home from my trip.  The vet had warned us to expect her to have days like this.  Under the circumstances, I didn’t plan for her to join me on this trip.  I was surprised when she met me at the front door Friday morning, ready to go.  I was glad to have her along, but concerned, too.  It’s hard to explain to a dog that you’re planning a 20-mile hike with lots of climbing!

 

I made the drive to the Fish Hatchery in 2 ½ hours.  When I arrived, I was greeted with sunny skies.  Where were all the clouds?  Oh well, I certainly wasn’t going to complain.

 

Originally I thought I would have to begin my hike with a 2-mile hike along the main road, which was recently paved as far as the Cove Creek Group Campground.  However, ½ mile up the road, I was able to turn off onto the original roadbed, which is gated.  This route promised a dirt walking surface, and of course no traffic.  It also runs close to the river, providing more scenery than the new “highway”. 

 

This new “trail” was wonderful.  However, shortly after joining it, I managed to turn my ankle.  I went down in a heap, but fortunately my injuries were limited to a slightly sore ankle and a skinned knee.  I looked around for the ankle-wrenching culprit, but saw nothing but smooth gravel.  As much walking as I do, you’d think I would be better at it.

 

I dusted myself off and resumed the hike.  After about a mile, I rejoined the main road for a short distance, before reaching a parking area and the road leading into the Cove Creek Group Campground.  I headed that way, passing the first blooming Rhododendron I’ve seen this year.  On the way to the campground, I stopped to check out a nice sliding cascade on Cove Creek.  Unfortunately, the bright sun overhead ruined any chance I had of making a decent photograph.

 

A few minutes later, I picked up the blue-blazed Caney Bottom Trail and began skirting around the campground.  Then I passed a junction with a major trail not shown on the Trails Illustrated Map.  This path leads up to the forest road that runs past Toms Spring Falls.  Currently, this route is marked as a temporary re-route of the Daniel Ridge Trail.  The normal start to the Daniel Ridge Trail is closed, as the bridge over the Davidson River was washed out a couple of years ago.  Today I planned to take this route over to rejoin the Davidson River.  First though, I wanted to visit Cove Creek Falls, as it had been years since I’d been there.

 

I followed the trail to a junction, and went left onto the yellow-blazed Cove Creek Trail.  I followed this up a ridge, until I could hear the sound of the waterfall crashing below me.  Before long, I reached a prominent but unmarked trail heading down towards the creek.  I followed it, and made an easy descent to the base of the falls. 

 

Cove Creek Falls is nice, but it wasn’t as spectacular as I had remembered.  The water level was fairly low, and there were some fallen branches cluttering the scene.  Photography was impossible due to the sun, but the base of the falls still made a great place for lunch.  I relaxed there for awhile, enjoying the sound of the crashing water before gathering my gear to resume the hike.

 

I crossed the creek, and picked up a fairly primitive path heading downstream.  A couple minutes later, I joined the blue-blazed Caney Bottom Trail.  I followed this path back across the creek, and eventually returned to the intersection with the Cove Creek Trail I had passed earlier.  A few minutes later I turned off, onto the unnamed trail leading over to Toms Spring Falls.

 

An easy climb brought me to a gravel road, and a decision.  A right turn here leads to the upper end of the Daniel Ridge Loop Trail.  A left would take me to Toms Spring Falls, and the lower end of the same route.  Going right would’ve been shorter, but I wasn’t in any hurry, and I wanted to see the falls.

 

I turned left and headed down, reaching the falls a few minutes later.  Toms Spring Falls is a high cascade, but it’s hard to get a good view of it.  You can see the falls from the road, except that there is a dead Hemlock tree growing right in front of it.  Climbing up to the base of the falls eliminates that obstruction, but results in a neck-craning view. 

 

At the falls, I ran into a solo hiker and her dog.  Saucony was excited to see a friend along the trail.  For me, it would be the only person I would see all day.

 

From the falls, I continued down the road to the Daniel Ridge Loop Trail.  This trail climbs steeply up the hillside close to Tom Spring Falls.  The other half of the loop continues down the road, before following the Davidson River upstream.  I could’ve gone either way, but I wanted to see as much of the river as possible.  I continued ahead, reaching a fork in the road a couple of minutes later.  I stayed to the right, and began hiking upstream above the river.  I passed a number of nice campsites, before reaching another fork.  At this point, the official, red-blazed trail stays to the right, climbing high above the river.  Once again, I chose to stay closer to the water.  I followed a narrower road down to the river, before resuming the hike upstream.  On the way, I passed more fine campsites, and one pretty significant cascade.  Before long, I rejoined the main road just above the confluence with the Right Fork.

 

I turned to follow the Right Fork upstream.  Moments later, I reached the remains of an old stone bridge spanning the fork.  The old road used to cross the Right Fork here before continuing upstream along the river.  You can still go that way, but there isn’t much left of the bridge.  Hiking farther upstream on the Davidson River now requires rock hopping the Right Fork.  Today this would’ve been fairly easy, as water levels were low.

 

My route went up the Right Fork though.  I headed that way, passing a small waterfall before reaching a crossing of the Right Fork.  After an easy rock-hop, I began climbing away from the creek on switchbacks.  Incidentally, it’s worth noting that this crossing is farther downstream than the Trails Illustrated Map shows.

 

Shortly after leaving the creek, I reached the turn for the route up to the waterfall on Right Fork.  I’d never been to that one, and was tempted to check it out.  However, the description in Kevin Adams’ guide makes it sound pretty rough.  It probably wouldn’t be a good idea to try it solo, with a big pack on.  After scouting the route briefly, I decided to save it for another day.

 

The climb resumed, but it didn’t last long.  Soon I began a long, gentle traverse around a ridge. Eventually I worked my way down to cross Daniel Ridge Creek.  Another traverse around a ridge ensued, before another descent to Shuck Creek.  I met the creek right at the brink of Shuck Creek Falls.  After hopping across the stream, I dropped my pack so I could check out the falls.

 

Getting to the base of the falls was a little tricky.  It required downclimbing a slippery, wet rock.  My efforts resulted in a wet pair of pants, but at least I made it down safely.  The effort was worth it.  Shuck Creek Falls isn’t the tallest or most powerful waterfall in the area, but it is elegant.  It reminds me a little bit of Courthouse Falls, but it’s much farther from the nearest trailhead.

 

The falls were mostly in the shade, so I was finally able to make an acceptable photograph.  After relaxing and having a snack, it was time to tackle the hardest part of the hike. 

 

We returned to the trail and immediately began to climb.  Before long, we found ourselves back above the Davidson River.  At this elevation, the Davidson River is merely a small stream.  We followed that stream up towards its source, climbing an exceptionally rocky trail.  This part of the hike was tedious, but the trail did lead through an old mica pit.  Flecks of mica were scattered everywhere, making the forest shine.

 

I finally reached the junction with the Art Loeb Trail at Farlow Gap.  At this point, I knew I was nearly finished for the day.  From Farlow Gap, the Art Loeb Trail climbs over Sassafras Knob before descending to Deep Gap.  An old road skirts around the knob, providing an easier route.  Despite this, I decided to take the trail.  I guess I was tired of walking on old roadbeds.

 

It was a great decision.  The Art Loeb Trail was lined with tunnels of blooming pink and white Azaleas.  This stretch of trail may have been the prettiest of the whole hike.  The Azaleas were delightful, and they made up for a surprising lack of wildflowers earlier in the hike.  At the lower elevations, most of the wildflowers were long gone.  Up here though, above 4000’, the woods were alive with flowers.  Aside from the Azaleas, I spotted a few Painted Trillium and some Red Trillium, along with some other species I couldn’t identify.

 

I enjoyed a few limited views from Sassafras Knob before descending into Deep Gap.  Just before the gap, I reached an old A-Frame shelter.  With the blue sky above, I briefly considered hiking on and finding a place to pitch my tent.  I knew that water sources would be hard to come by farther down the Art Loeb Trail though.  Since there wasn’t anyone there, I decided to stay at the shelter.  It ended up being the best decision I made all weekend.

 

The spring near the shelter was only a trickle, so I followed the creek downstream to another old road.  Here the little stream runs through a culvert.  It pours out of the culvert on the far side, making for a convenient place to fill a water bucket.  I hauled the water back to camp, where I treated some of it with iodine.  I recently ordered a new water filter from REI, but it’s on backorder.  My old filter is hopelessly clogged, so I’m relying on chemicals until the new one arrives.

 

That evening, I had soup and chicken Quesadillas for dinner.  While I was eating, I noticed that it looked like Saucony was winking at me.  What was up with that?  I investigated, and noticed that her left eye was badly swollen.  Apparently she had been bitten or stung by something.  I gave her a Benadryl, but it wasn’t until the next day (and another Benadryl) before her eye returned to normal.

 

 After dinner, I dozed off in my camp chair.  Sometime later, a bright flash woke me.  What was that?  Is somebody taking pictures?  Then another flash came, followed by a distant rumble of thunder.  Uh-oh.  I roused myself, and scrambled to clean up my gear.  I hung the rest of my food and trash, and stashed everything else into the shelter.  By the time I finished my chores, the storm was approaching fast.  At least, I was pretty sure it was a storm.  Rather than occasional bolts of lightning, the sky to the west was lit with dazzling brightness two or three times per second.  The echoing thunder sounded almost like explosions.  Was it a storm, or was eastern Tennessee under attack?  If Tennessee was under attack, I could only hope that whoever it was would take out Pigeon Forge.  That, and maybe the casino in Cherokee.  Suddenly, the brightest flash of all illuminated the entire forest.  Yikes, there went Oak Ridge!  Uh, oh, that ain’t good.

 

The fury of the impending storm was too impressive to disregard.  I helped Saucony up into the shelter, and then walked around the side of it to watch the fireworks.  It was moving fast – minutes earlier, I would’ve guessed it was in the Smokies.  Now though, it was bearing down on me.  The bright flashes continued – in fact, it would’ve been easy to read a book without a flashlight, if concentration had been possible.  Moments later, I could hear the first rain drops hitting the leaves above me.  I dove into the shelter, and moved all of my gear away from the entrance.  A minute later, it was like I was looking out from behind a waterfall.  The bright flashes and deafening thunder continued.  Luckily, Saucony isn’t scared of thunderstorms.

 

The storm brought a chill, and I snuggled into my sleeping bag.  Despite the violence of the storm, I dozed off.   I woke later, and the stars were out.  I have no idea how long the storm went on.  For all I know, it was over in minutes.

 

The next morning, I feasted on eggs, bacon, and toast before breaking camp.  The best part about staying in shelter is that it makes getting on the trail early a lot easier.  Well, actually the best part of staying in a shelter is not having to pack up a wet tent.

 

We hit the trail, and descended to Deep Gap proper, were we found another spring.  From there, we tackled the toughest climb of the day.  Fortunately, most of the ascent of Pilot Mountain is on switchbacks.  Just when the climb was beginning to get tedious, we crested the summit.  There, we were treated to fine views from the southwest to the northwest.  The best view was of Mount Hardy, a 6000’ peak near the Parkway.  Normally there would’ve been a view to the east, too.  However, on this morning, the entire Davidson River valley was completely fogged in.  I wasn’t complaining though.  I’d been on top of Pilot Mountain three times previously.  Once was in a snowstorm, once was in the fog, and once was in a thunderstorm.  After those experiences, I was happy to get any view at all.

 

Pilot Mountain isn’t well known, but I’m not sure why.  At just over 5000’, it’s a peak of some significance.  It boasts some nice views, and towers over the surrounding mountains.  All that, and one of North Carolina’s most famous trails runs right across its summit.

 

From there, I endured an endless descent.  Most of this stretch of trail is on switchbacks.  However, parts of it are badly eroded, and some stretches are nothing more than a gully.  I was glad it wasn’t raining.  I’d descended this stretch of trail last summer during a thunderstorm, and at times the water was knee deep!

 

There was some nice scenery to break up the monotony.  A cliff provided a nice view to the south.  More azaleas lined the trail, and later, near Gloucester Gap, I spotted the first Flame Azaleas of the season. 

 

At Gloucester Gap, I crossed a dirt forest road, and began to climb.  From there, I followed an undulating stretch of trail over a series of knobs.  Although this ridge is viewless, it’s a pleasant walk. 

 

I was getting close to Butter Gap when the silence was interrupted by a series of shouts.  What was going on?  I hadn’t seen anyone in almost 24 hours, and the noise was startling.  I crested a rise, and encountered a large group on the trail, playing some sort of game.  I’m not certain, but it looked like an Outward Bound Group.  I passed them by, and headed on down to Butter Gap.  There I saw a couple of mountain bikers.  Clearly the solitude I’d experienced throughout the trip was ending.

 

From Butter Gap, I descended briefly to the shelter, where I collected water and had a quick lunch.  Afterwards, I returned to the gap, and began descending along Grogan Creek.  This trail was easy, but quite muddy in spots.  Some time later, I passed the waterfall on Grogan Creek.  I paused briefly to check it out, but didn’t spend much time on photos.  The fog was long gone, and once again, bright sunshine was illuminating the falls.

 

Later, another mountain biker passed by.  Then, I spotted a large Black Rat Snake crossing the trail.  It seems like every time I hike in this area, I see snakes.  Last summer, I encountered two Timber Rattlesnakes nearby, on the Art Loeb Trail.  One of them was the biggest rattlesnake I’d ever seen.  I’m not exaggerating much when I say that it was as thick as a fire hose.

 

The gradual descent continued to Pickleisemer Fields.  There I found some nice meadows and beaver ponds.  Pickleismer Fields is one of the nicest places to camp in the area.  From there I continued downstream, now following Cedar Rock Creek.  Before long, I reached the side trail down to the falls on Cedar Rock Creek.  Even though I knew that photography would be hopeless, I couldn’t resist checking it out.  Both the waterfalls on Grogan Creek and Cedar Rock Creek are nice, if not exactly spectacular.  I think both could make good photos under better conditions.

 

From there, a short walk around a fenced-off research area delivered me to the fish hatchery parking lot.  The lot was crowded!  Where did all these people come from?  Having covered 20 miles in two days, I was ready to give up my parking space.  I headed for home, glad to have gotten another good training trip in.  I’ll definitely return to the area.  I’d like to check out some more of the waterfalls in the Davidson River headwaters.  Although I saw quite a few on this trip, there are many others in the area that I still haven’t made it to.




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