I had always wondered what solo backpacking would be like. Last weekend, I got the opportunity to find out. Christy was stuck at home with a badly sprained ankle. Everyone else had other plans. So I decided to go alone, though I did bring the dog with me.
I spent a lot of time choosing my destination. I wanted an area that I knew well that wouldn’t be too hazardous. I also wanted a destination that would be crowd free. If I was going to go alone, I really wanted to be alone. Going solo but being surrounded by strangers didn’t seem appealing. Eventually, I decided on the Middle Prong Wilderness.
I drove up Saturday morning and enjoyed peak fall foliage in the foothills around Hendersonville. I had anticipated heavy traffic, but it wasn’t too bad until I arrived at the Black Balsam parking area. The lot was virtually full, though I was able to squeeze into a narrow spot that was just big enough for the Toyota. I got packed, and offered Saucony a biscuit before we started. She spit it out. She was too cranked up to start hiking to bother with a treat.
We started on a rough, steep path that was really more of a gully. We reached the top of the ridge in a grassy meadow. The weather was beautiful, and I couldn’t resist taking the short side trip up to Black Balsam Knob. The 360-degree views from the grassy summit were amazing. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky, and the vistas were limitless. From my perch, I could see a steady stream of backpackers heading towards Shining Rock. I can’t imagine what it was like there Saturday night. I was glad that I was heading the other direction.
I hiked back down the ridge, and continued on the Art Loeb Trail toward Silvermine Bald. I crossed the road and entered a dark, magical forest of spruce and fir. I passed a nice campsite, and then entered a meadow with nice views back to Black Balsam. Several miles of easy hiking led through balsams and to cliffs with sweeping views. Several of the openings looked out on Pilot Mountain and the Davidson River area. Although the leaves were mostly gone where I was, the fall colors were spectacular in the valley below.
It was after noon when I reached a large rock just off the trail. I climbed up to the top, where I enjoyed nice views of Devil’s Courthouse during lunch. Afterwards, I continued on the mountains-to-sea trail, passing more spruce fir forest and pleasant views. I crossed several streams before descending to highway 215. I continued across the road and into the Middle Prong wilderness.
The next couple of miles took me through dark forests and open meadows. Along the way were more nice campsites and an unexpected waterfall. It was 4pm when I reached a spring. I figured it was probably the last water, so I stopped to filter. Within a couple hundred yards I crossed two more streams, but after that the hike was dry. I climbed to a ridge below Mt. Hardy in a thick forest of balsams. Then, I turned out Fork Ridge and began searching for a campsite.
We hiked another hour, through more meadows and balsams. Along the way I dodged brambles and numerous piles of bear scat. I passed numerous grassy areas that would have been suitable. Saucony was worn out, and she stopped at each and looked at me expectantly. She was disappointed when I continued on. I finally reached a flat area at the summit of Green Knob. From the top were outstanding views of Big Sam Mountain and Little Sam, and Flat Laurel Creek cascading between them. Behind it all was the massive bulk of Black Balsam, where I had started my hike 7 hours ago. I pitched the tent right there on the peak, and right next to yet another pile of bear scat.
We had passed 2 groups of day hikers since coming down from Black Balsam. We seen only a single tent since entering the Middle Prong Wilderness, and that was 2 miles back. It was amazing to have such a beautiful area to myself on a perfect weekend.
I set up camp, which was a hassle since I had to do everything myself. I had a simple meal of chicken and rice and bundled up against the chill. I made an attempt at a bear bag, and actually got it a good 10 or 12 feet off the ground. I felt like it was pretty secure, unless of course the bear chewed through the rope.
I was afraid that hanging around camp would get boring, but it was a pleasure to sit and watch the sun set. The stars were brilliant in the cloud-free sky. Across the valley, campfires appeared near Flat Laurel Creek. By 9pm it was getting cold, so I crawled into the tent. I had left the fly off, and I was quite content to simply gaze at the stars. Eventually I drifted off to sleep.
I woke up at dawn, and watched the sun rise from the tent. I got up a little later and retrieved my food, which was still safely hung. I had a quick breakfast but took my time packing. It was a beautiful spot, and I was in no hurry to leave.
We broke camp at 10am and hiked back on Fork Ridge. We stopped at a beautiful meadow below Mt. Hardy for a lengthy break. From the meadow, the views of the Middle Prong valley, Richland Balsam, and the Smokies were breathtaking.
Eventually we began the hike back. I followed my route from the day before, and stopped for more water after leaving the ridge. We reached the highway, but decided to take a different trail back to the car. We walked down the road a short distance and picked up the Flat Laurel Creek Trail. We followed an old railroad bed across a creek and around the side of Little Sam Mountain. We crossed a number of streams, including one on a bridge in front of a waterfall. We curved around the mountain and found ourselves high above Flat Laurel Creek. The stream tumbled over a series of falls and cascades below us. Several excellent swimming holes were visible as well. I wanted to stop and explore, but it was already mid-afternoon. I continued on past some campsites. I crossed the creek, searching for the trail up to Big Sam. I crossed too soon though, I found myself in an overgrown meadow. I bushwhacked upstream, and stumbled onto the trail at another campsite. From there I hiked up through meadows of goldenrod to a wildlife clearing.
It was getting late, but I decided to take a quick trip up to Big Sam Mountain. It was another perfectly clear day, and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity. I reached the crest after 15 minutes, and hiked out to the north summit. The sweeping views were truly amazing. After a long break, we had to head back. Saucony enjoyed her last treat, and then it was back on the trail. My feet were worn out as I plodded the last mile to the parking area. We reached the car at 4:30, and Saucony immediately passed out in the back seat. It had been a great trip, and we were both worn out. My first solo backpack had been a good one. I don’t think solo hiking will ever be my preference, but I am glad to have had the experience.
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