AQUARIUS
Today’s trip
report is brought to you by the color green.
I
was up early on Saturday, loading the rented Ford Mustang for the long drive
south. I had requested a compact car,
hoping for something that would get good gas mileage. Somehow, I ended up with a Mustang. Not only would I not get good gas mileage, I wasn’t sure how a
Mustang would handle some of southern Utah’s notoriously rough dirt roads. On the other hand, it was rather fun to
drive.
I
took advantage of that fact with another scenic drive on my way south. Rather than just motoring down I-15 towards
Vegas, I diverted onto a winding mountain road. I paid another toll, this time $3, for the pleasure of driving
the Alpine Loop. This road led up a
canyon, passing a cave that is the focal point of a national monument. Beyond were switchbacks that provided access
into the high country. Colors were good
here as well, though not as good as what I’d seen the day before at Mill Creek
Canyon. Eventually the scenic drive
ended at a major road running towards Provo.
That didn’t mean the scenery was over though. A few minutes later, I passed spectacular Bridal Veil falls
cascading down the canyon wall.
I
returned to the interstate by way of Provo and continued south. Route 50 east provided a nice shortcut, and
before long I was heading east on I-70.
From there I picked up route 72 south, heading towards Loa and
Torrey. This road led over a plateau
that was decorated with gold and orange aspens. Little did I know the roadside scenery would only get better.
I
passed through the tiny community of Teasdale, where several impressive houses
were built to blend in with the giant boulders and redrock cliffs in their
yards. From there, I picked up highway
12. Utah highway 12 is considered to be
one of the most scenic roads in the country.
It didn’t take long for me to find out why. The highway climbs steadily up to the edge of the Aquarius
Plateau. I was greeted with great views
east towards Capitol Reef National Park, the Waterpocket Fold, and miles and
miles of desert scenery. The best
feature of the plateau was the trees.
The aspens were at peak color, and the golden leaves were frequently
mixed with the dark green of the pines trees.
The contrast between the two was stunning. The scenery was so intense, I almost had to beat my head against
the dashboard to numb my senses.
I
had a picnic lunch at one of the many roadside overlooks. Then the drive resumed as I left the
mountains behind in favor of the desert.
A long, rapid descent brought me to the town of Boulder. Beyond, I entered the wilderness of Grand
Staircase Escalante National Monument.
A jumbled chaos of sandstone canyons raced away from me in every
direction. The road led down through
them, following an impossible path along a narrow ridge. Vertical cliffs plunged away off both sides
of the road. One hair-raising plunge
down the ridge ended abruptly at a 90-degree turn. This was a fun place to notice that the Mustang’s alignment was
badly out of whack.
The
endless expanse of white sandstone canyons provided amazing scenery. Before long, I descended into the oasis of
Calf Creek Canyon. From there, it was
only a few more miles of winding road to the Escalante River. Just before the bridge, I pulled in to a
small but crowded parking area at the Escalante River Trailhead.
Thanks
to all of the great scenery, I was running 3 hours behind schedule. I still had time for a short hike
though. I loaded my pack, put on my
sandals, and picked up the trail heading upstream.
The
path immediately forded the river. The
water was cold, fast, and thigh deep, making for a tricky crossing. I waded across, and continued upstream
through a jungle of vegetation. In the
desert canyon country, only along flowing streams will you find this kind of
plant life. The brilliant green of the
shrubs and cottonwoods made quite a contrast against the redrock walls of the
canyon.
I
hiked upstream along the sandy path, crossing the river 3 more times. Then, on the left side of the river, Escalante
Natural Bridge came into view. I
wandered around near the base of the bridge for some time, but found it
difficult to get a good view because of the cliffs and vegetation. The best spots to view the bridge are just
to the left of the 5th river crossing, and after that crossing
looking back from the trail. I
continued upstream, crossing the river two more times. The map indicated that Escalante Arch should
be nearby, but I couldn’t figure out where it was. By chance, I happened to glance up, and there it was, high up on
the cliff face above me.
I
stopped there for a snack break and two hikers came by, heading
downstream. We chatted briefly, and
they asked if I had noticed the Anasazi cliff dwelling on the far side of the
river. I had not. In fact, I had blundered by without noticing
them. On my return, I scrambled up for
a better look. The 1,000 year-old cliff-dwelling remains
virtually unreachable for anyone other than a rock climber. This is probably a good thing, as the
dwelling appeared to be intact. Two
stone structures remain in the alcove of the cliff. A long jagged red petroglpyh that looked like a huge snake
provides decoration.
I
admired the scene for a time before heading back. I had only hiked 2 miles along the river, and in that span I’d
seen a natural bridge, a natural arch, petroglyphs, and an Anasazi cliff
dwelling. It is possible to hike from
the bridge to the town of Escalante in one long day. Even more intriguing would be a backpack along the lower
Escalante River. The river runs through
its canyon some 70 miles before it reaches Lake Powell. And thanks to the ongoing drought in the
southwest, the river is getting longer every year. One of these years, Christy and I will backpack all the way to
the lake, and explore the many side canyons along the way.
I
had originally planned to car camp out in the desert somewhere. However, the dirt roads leading off of
highway 12 have the reputation for being rough. Even the best of them, like Hole in the Rock Road, may have been
too much for the Mustang. The last
thing I wanted to do on my first day of vacation was get stuck out in the
middle of the desert somewhere. Plus,
to camp legally, a free permit is required.
The visitor’s center that issues the permits closed 30 minutes prior to
my arrival. I needed a backup plan.
The
area seemed very busy, and I was worried that the developed campgrounds would
be full. I decided to try Escalante
State Park first, since it was only a mile away. I was relieved to find plenty of vacant sites. The park features nicely developed sites,
with canopies over the picnic tables.
The camping fee includes showers, which I didn’t take advantage of
because I neglected to bring a towel.
As I was examining one of the sites, another camper approached me with a
suggestion. They had noticed a great
site right on the lake, in the overflow section of the campground. I thanked him and headed that way, and
eventually found the site he was referring to.
It was right on the lakeshore, under a stand of cottonwoods turning gold
in the late afternoon sun. I set up
camp, paid $20 for the site and two bundles of firewood, and returned to enjoy
the view. I had a great spot to watch
the sun set over the lake and the redrock cliffs beyond. The best part of the site was the absolute
solitude. I was far away from the
bustle of the rest of the campground.
Ultimately, I ended up with the quiet spot out in the desert that I was
hoping for – even if it was on the shore of a large body of water.
I
enjoyed a roaring campfire with my dinner of chili. Later, the fire died down, and the moonless sky provided a great
view of the stars. The milky way arched
over my head from one horizon to the other.
Out in the lake, the reflection of the stars above twinkled like tiny
underwater lanterns. When one of those
lanterns took off racing through the water, I thought it had been grabbed by a
trout. No, it was just a shooting star,
the light reflecting off the surface of the still lake.
Back to Utah
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Please remember to Leave No Trace!