SLICKBACK

We were up at sunrise Wednesday to get our gear together. We had a huge mess from several days of car camping. Somehow we had to get everything into our packs. We were planning a 5 day backpack in the Needles, so we had our work cut out for us. After a couple hours of work, we had everything in order. We drove into the Park and stopped at the visitor's center to pick up our permit.

We endured a 5 minute speech on LNT principles, which we were rather familiar with anyway. We also found out that the weather service was calling for rain over the weekend. Rain in the desert? No way! Of course, the week before we arrived saw rain, snow, and overnight temperatures in the teens. We discussed our route with the ranger. We had planned to start at Squaw Flat and hike to Lost Canyon. From there we planned to follow a series of trails through several canyons to Chesler Park. On Friday we intended to hike down Lower Red Lake Canyon to the river. We planned to spend a free day there, before returning by way of the confluence overlook. The fact that we were ending our trip 5 miles from the starting point confused the ranger to no end. I never was able to make him understand the concept of a car shuttle. Despite this, we did confirm some important information. There was plenty of water in Lost Creek, which we would need the first night. However, he couldn't tell us if there was water in Elephant Canyon. We were hoping that we could rely on this for the 2nd night and 3rd day. Instead, we'd have to carry enough water from Lost Creek for both days.

We returned to The Needles Outpost and spoke with the owners. Luckily, I was able to talk them into giving us a ride from the ending point of our hike to Squaw Flat. All they asked for was gas money, which was quite reasonable. They were quite kind to take the time out of their day. Overall, our experience at Needles Outpost was pleasant, despite the rattlesnake. I'd certainly recommend them and would definitely stay there again.

We drove to the trailhead at Big Springs where we left the Daewoo. From there we caught our ride back to the starting point. It had been a busy morning, but we still managed to get on the trail at 11AM. The hike started out flat and easy, which was fortunate since our packs weighed a ton. We walked through a fascinating desert environment, with all kinds of vegetation to attract our attention. There were spectacular wildflowers, cacti, shrubs, and the occasional juniper or pinyon pine. In the distant were views of bizarre rock formations, and to the west we could still see the La Sal Mountains.

The first hour of hiking was quite easy. Soon enough though, we hit our first climb. Ahead of us was a small but steep ridge of bare rock. We followed cairns, which switchbacked their way up the slickrock. It was here that Christy created the term Slickback. It was the first of many slickbacks we'd encounter during the trip. Once on top the views were even better. It was a little windy, but it seemed the ideal place for lunch.

 

 

THE WATER DILEMNA PART 1

After a leisurely break, we headed back down. One stretch was interesting as we walked a narrow ledge 100' above the floor of the canyon. Then, we reached a ladder that was extremely difficult to approach with a heavy pack. I had to take mine off and lower it to Christy before I could descend. Once down in the canyon, we wandered down the dry wash before arriving at the mouth of Lost Canyon. Here we found an incredible trail sign, stating Lost Canyon and complete with a carving of a skull and crossbones. We didn't see any water in Lost Canyon, just sand.

We turned and hiked up Lost Canyon, anxiously looking for water around each bend. The plentiful Cottonwoods indicated that there was frequently water present. We passed a designated campsite, and finally came to the first pool of water. Afterwards, the water was more plentiful as we traveled upstream. At one point we had to cross the stream, and it was actually a little tricky to keep from getting our feet wet. The vegetation grew thick, to the point of almost being jungle-like. Then we stumbled across the first hikers we'd seen since that morning. We chatted briefly, and it turned out that they had been in Elephant Canyon a couple of days before. They confirmed that there was a flowing spring there. What a relief! I wasn't sure if we could carry 2 days of water from here. Now that wouldn't be necessary.

We hiked on, and soon arrived at the side trail to our campsite. We had the site reserved, and only one group is allowed per site. So we were guaranteed to have the place to ourselves. We arrived at 3pm, so we had all day to enjoy it. We pitched the tent under a pinyon pine for shade. Just outside of camp we found prickly pear cactus, with Indian Paintbrush blooming nearby. Christy spent the afternoon sunbathing, while I explored farther up Lost Canyon. The trail left the canyon near our site, so the upper portion of Lost Canyon was truly wilderness. The canyon was fairly wide, so I didn't have much trouble finding a route. Often I rock hopped up the creek, but occasionally I was forced onto the bank. I saw all kinds of animal tracks, especially deer, but I didn't see anything except lizards. After a pleasant hour exploring, I returned to camp. The rest of the evening was spent relaxing. We enjoyed a hearty meal of sausage jambalaya before heading to the tent early.

MY FAVORITE MUDPUDDLE

We faced a dilemma Thursday morning. How much water should we carry? The hikers we had passed the day before had assured us of good water in Elephant Canyon. That was only a mile from our next campsite. But what if the spring had run dry? We couldn't risk our lives on the word of a stranger. In the end, we decided to carry more water than we'd need if the spring was there. However, we didn't take nearly enough to get us through that night and all day Friday. We'd only have enough to bail out to the nearest trailhead.

We left camp and hiked up a spur of Lost Canyon. After a brief warm-up, we began to climb towards a slickrock pass. The climb was only a few hundred feet, but it turned out to be much harder than expected. It mainly consisted of a series of ledges. If we had been packless, it would have only required some rock scrambling. It probably would've been fun. But with 4 days worth of food and gallons of water, it was a different story. A couple of the ledges were too high to climb with a pack. So we'd take off our packs, throw them up onto the ledge, and then climb up. Then we'd have put them back on while balanced on a narrow shelf. Once that was accomplished, we'd struggle onward, pulling ourselves up to the next ledge. Luckily, the pass wasn't very high, and we eventually reached the top. From there we could see down into Lost Canyon, Squaw Canyon, and over to the La Sal Mountains. It might have been worth it.

After a brief rest we began the descent into Squaw Canyon. Going down was similar to coming up. Part of the time we were lowering ourselves down carefully, while at other points it was easier to slide down the smooth rock. We made it to the bottom of Squaw Canyon, where we found quite a bit of water. Surely if there was water here there'd be some in Elephant Canyon?

We enjoyed a half mile or so of hiking through Squaw Canyon before we began to climb to the next pass. Soon we were on slickrock again, staring up at a huge wall of naked rock. Up above we could see 2 dayhikers cautiously working their way down. They were moving very slowly, and they were only wearing fanny packs. As I was busy planning the best route, Christy noticed a trail sign. Surprise! Our route didn't go that way. Instead our trail veered off to the left, apparently working it's way around the flank of the cliffs. It was lucky for us that Christy was paying more attention than I was. We were relieved at first, but soon found our route to be challenging in its own right. First it passed through a narrow crack between two rocks. It was a tight squeeze, and my pack kept getting caught on the rocks. To add to the fun, there was a narrow crack in the rock underneath us. Logs and rocks had been wedged into it at strategic places to keep hikers from falling in and getting stuck. Needless to say, it was quite a challenge to keep my balance while twisting and turning my way through. Once that obstacle was passed, we had to jump a crevasse. It wasn't terribly wide, but it was far enough across to swallow a hiker. Once that was passed, it was up another series of ledges to a slickrock pass. The last 20 feet was on a wobbly ladder. By the time we reached our lunch spot at the top, we both needed a physical and mental break.

We enjoyed lunch, and the views were once again spectacular. However, a cold wind was blowing, so we didn't linger very long. We began our descent to Elephant Canyon with another 20' ladder. I couldn't lower my pack down this one, but luckily it was easier to approach. After reaching the bottom, there was some more buttwacking to reach a tributary of Elephant Canyon. Here we found a few puddles of green, stagnant water. Would we drink it if we had to? I suppose so, but neither of us wanted to think about it.

We reached Elephant Canyon and began hiking up the sandy wash. This stretch didn't look like it had ever seen water. There was only rock and sand. I was getting worried, but at least the hiking was easier. After about a mile we arrived at a mudpuddle. To call it a spring would be quite a stretch. It was fairly big, but that water wasn't flowing anywhere. At least it wasn't green and sick looking.

We were right at the junction with the trail to our camp at Chesler Park. We found a Pinyon Pine and took a break in the shade. I spent 45 minutes filtering from our favorite mudpuddle. I filled everything we had. When I was finally finished, we had 14 quarts of water to carry to camp.

It was only mid-afternoon, and neither of us were in any hurry to carry all that water. Instead we each carried one water bottle and hiked the side trail up to Druid Arch. I had heard that it was a must-see, and it was only 2 miles each way. At the very least it would be nice to walk without those packs for awhile.

The trail followed Elephant Canyon. After a mile, we passed a deep undercut full of cold water. It looked like an ideal swimming hole but we continued on. Shortly after that we had to climb a smooth slickrock pouroff. It was steeper than it looked, and I began to slip near the top. I had to throw myself onto the rock to create enough friction to keep from sliding back down. Luckily I was able to pull myself the rest of the way up.

Soon after that we left the canyon and began climbing over boulders. Just when we were beginning to think we'd never get there, we turned a corner and found ourselves in the shadow of Druid Arch. It was truly immense. It absolutely towered over us. There were actually three different openings incorporated into the arch. We stopped and rested in the shade for some time before beginning the long walk back.

We returned to our packs late that afternoon. I was disappointed to discover that they hadn't gotten any lighter while we were gone. There was nothing left to do except begin the climb to Chesler Park. The climb started badly. Once again we had to overcome a series of ledges. Some of the required moves were a little technical, which was nearly overwhelming with a 60 pound pack. We pulled, scraped, and cussed our way up. Fortunately the worst was at the beginning, and the last part of the climb was simply a test of endurance. When we reached Chesler Park we found that it had been worth it. We were in a huge grassy meadow, surrounded by multi-colored pinnacles of sandstone. The needles were hundreds of feet tall, and standing in rows, like sets of huge teeth. Our campsite was at the base of one of the needles, with views out into the meadow and beyond.

The only problem with Chesler Park was the wind. It was deafening, and blowing sand everywhere. We spent quite a bit of time looking for the most sheltered tent site. It didn't seem to matter much though, as the tent flapped all night. Fortunately, it did calm down a little during dinner. We were able to enjoy one of Christy's newest creations, pita pizzas. They certainly exceeded my expectations. I've had worse delivered to my door. Of course, a killer 9 mile hike in the desert with too much weight on your back really adds flavor to any meal. We washed the pizzas down with whiskey and cider. After dinner, we were treated to a spectacular sunset. The setting sun lit up the clouds in purple, pink, and red. We wasted about a roll of film trying to capture the beauty of it before the final light left the sky.

SANDSTORM

Neither one of us slept well Thursday night. The wind howled all night long. Getting up and breaking camp wasn't easy, either. We had bagels for breakfast, but they were hard to enjoy. The wind was blowing sheets of sand at us the whole time. Then we had the fun of trying to take the tent down. At one point, Christy saved the fly. Otherwise it probably would have ended up in the Colorado River.

We started hiking at 8AM when it was still quite chilly. We started out hiking around the meadows of Chesler Park. This was the most scenic part of the trip thus far, but it was a battle just to stay upright during the strongest wind gusts. By this time I had sand in my eyes, ears, mouth, hair, and pretty much everywhere else. At least Christy had been wise and packed sunglasses.

We reached the far side of Chesler Park and took a short side trail up to an overlook. This didn't change the view much, but it did give us a chance to stop and appreciate our surroundings. Down below we could see our next adventure - the entrance to "the joint". The joint is a narrow crack between two rocks that runs about 1/2 a mile. From our vantage point, it looked like a bad idea at best. It certainly didn't look like a trail.

I descended into the crack. The wind died immediately, which was truly a blessing. I couldn't believe the sudden quiet. Ahead of me was a shadowy tunnel which appeared impossibly narrow. Surely it was impassable. I looked back at Christy who was waiting to enter. The sunlight was painfully bright above. I turned and plunged into the abyss.

I took about 3 steps and quickly became stuck. The passage was just wide enough for my body, but not my pack. I managed to get it off, and with a great deal of difficulty pulled it along behind me. After a few yards the tunnel widened slightly, and I was able to proceed in a more dignified fashion. We continued, moving deeper into what we were fondly calling the dungeon. High above was a narrow sliver of light. Down below though, we were free to explore this amazing natural landscape. Occasionally side cracks would join our passage at right angles. Some of these were even narrower than the one we were in. I wished to explore them all, but we still had 9 more miles ahead of us.

Towards the end of the tunnel we reached an obstacle. We descended over boulders, at one point using a log as a makeshift ladder. Near the exit the passage tightened again, but this time I was able to squeeze my pack through. We finally emerged into the sunlight, and it was like a different world. The day had warmed, and the wind was nearly calm. We followed the trail out to a jeep road and a toilet. After making good use of the facilities, we followed the jeep road towards Devil's Kitchen.

Along the way we passed a spectacular cactus. It looked like a barrel cactus, except that instead of being one large barrel, it was a whole group of little ones. A barrel of barrels, I suppose. We'd seen some of these before, but this one was in full bloom. Our barrel was covered in red flowers.

We left the road quickly and began to follow a path towards the Pinnacles. The Pinnacles are a high rock formation that form one side of Chesler Park. We were climbing towards a pass in the formation. When I planned the trip, I didn't expect it to be too difficult. However, our experience with the passes the day before had me concerned. Luckily though, it wasn't too bad. However, when we reached the crest we found the wind again. It was blasting through the opening in the rocks. We were also in the shade, and the combination was bitterly cold. We didn't even pause at the top, but hurried down the far side. Once we reached a sunny spot, we stopped for a long rest. Once again we were out of the wind.

We hiked down through Devil's Kitchen and reached another jeep road, some primitive car camp sites, and another toilet. Once again there was no one around. We hiked the road for a mile or so, finally coming to Devil's Lane. Here we reached a sign that stated, Colorado River, 5 miles. We were at the point of no return. We could head out from here and reach the car by the evening. Or, we could continue with the original plan and head for the river. After a brief discussion, we decided to continue on.

The guidebook suggested that the hike to river was all downhill. This seems like a reasonable assumption, but directly ahead of us was a 100' vertical wall. Perhaps there was a hidden crack? Not this time. Instead it was another thigh screaming climb from ledge to ledge. Once on top though, we had an outstanding view down Devil's Lane to The Needles themselves. We decided to lunch here. Christy brought out the peanut butter and pitas, and I relaxed in the sun. We stayed there for over an hour, enjoying our final break before the big descent to the river.

We dropped down through one canyon and into Cyclone Canyon. From there, we dropped again, this time into Lower Red Lake Canyon. This canyon was unusual, in that it was broad and flat. Strange plants were growing in the bottom, which I'm almost certain weren't marijuana. Ahead of us, the trail appeared to climb out of the canyon. I checked the guidebook. It clearly showed the trail dropping all the way to the river. I checked the map. Ah hah! Contrary to the guidebook, it distinctly showed the trail climbing a spur ridge before dropping back down into the canyon. Lovely. We had to go up to go down. I explained this to Christy from a distance before hurrying to stay a safe distance ahead of her. For some reason she blamed me. I blamed the guidebook author and the national park service, for shoddy guidebook writing and idiotic trail routing, respectively.

THE WATER DILEMNA PART 2

We eventually reached the rim, and began traversing the edge of a deep chasm. Below, Lower Red Lake Canyon spilled over a high dryfall that would be an incredible waterfall during a flood. I was beginning to see why the trail didn't go that way. Ahead of us was an incredible panorama. To the west, we could see the Land Of Standing Rocks and The Dollhouse in the Maze portion of Canyonlands. Below, Lower Red Lake Canyon carved a 1000' deep gorge as it wound it's way toward the river. It reminded me of some of the side gorges in the Grand Canyon. Only one question remained. How would we get down there?

Christy and I were each down to our final quart of water. Aside from the river, the nearest water source was probably 10 miles away. One way or another, we were going to have to get to the river. Far below, we could see our trail reaching the canyon floor. That point was almost directly below us. I envisioned a 1000' drop over a hundred ledges. Where was the elevator?

We started down the trail on tight, rocky switchbacks. Luckily, this trail was well constructed. We didn't have any problems, though the descent took over an hour. We finally reached the sandy canyon bottom squeezed between soaring walls. We headed down wash, curving back and forth. At each bend I expected to see the river ahead. Each time though, there was only another curve in the canyon walls. After an eternity we saw trees. Beyond was the brown ribbon of the Colorado River. Across from us was the flat, broad bank of Spanish Bottom. The Dollhouse and the Land of Standing Rocks towered above us.

We were both exhausted, but we still had to find a campsite. The river bank was overgrown with tamarisk. Above the bank was a steep, rocky slope. I thought I might find an opening in the tamarisk, but I quickly found that to be hopeless. I did manage to bash my knee on a log though. Yes, I was definitely tired. Then, a large snake slithered through the grass and away from me. This was not the best omen, either. I explored downstream, but only found more of the same. I did find one spot though that would do. I decided to return to Christy and suggest it. First though, I decided to see how hard it would be to get water. The tamarisk was all but impenetrable.

I hiked the rest of the way down the canyon wash. I fought my way through one thicket, and found myself looking out on a huge sandbar. The sand was piled above the canyon floor. The spot looked out over the mighty river. After an hour, I had found our campsite.

We set up camp right there on the sandbar. The view was unbeatable, and there wasn't anyone else around. We hadn't seen many people during the trip, but now we could enjoy total solitude. It had been a long, tiring day, so we finished it off with a huge spaghetti dinner. Afterwards, we washed it all down with mugs of whiskey and cider. Somehow, I made it into the tent before falling asleep.

BLACK MUDDY RIVER

We weren't in any rush to get up Saturday morning. Today was a free day. When we finally did get up, we had freeze dried eggs and hashbrowns. As I ate, I gazed up at the Dollhouse high above us on the far side of the river.

The Maze section of Canyonlands is one of the most inaccessible places in the country. There are 3 logical ways to get there. You can drive, it you have a jeep and are willing to endure 4 hours or more of washouts, boulders, and tight switchbacks with sheer drop-offs. You could also canoe or raft the river, and hike from there. We didn't have a jeep or a boat. That left the third possibility. Swim. One map I looked at actually had a caption at Spanish Bottom. It read "no trail across river". No, no trail, but could we swim it? We had it all planned out. We'd swim across with fanny packs holding some clothes, tevas, an empty water bottle, and iodine tablets. Once on the far side we'd dress, fill the bottles, and hike the steep trail from Spanish Bottom up to the Dollhouse. From there we could explore some ancient Indian Ruins and a massive arch. We wouldn't be able to explore much of the Maze, but we'd at least get a taste of it.

Unfortunately, Saturday was a cool, cloudy, and windy day. The water temperature near the bank was only in the upper 50's. If the weather had been similar to what we had experienced earlier in the week, I think we'd have gone for it. As it was though, it would just be begging for hypothermia.

Before we went anywhere we badly needed water. The night before we had boiled everything we needed. The water was extremely silty, and I was afraid it would clog my filter. I had let a bucketful settle overnight, but it still looked like chocolate milk. With some apprehension I decided to give it a try. Luckily, the filter handled it, but it still wasn't appealing. It looked like mud and was gritty to the taste. Fortunately we had plenty of lemonade mix.

After finishing the morning chores, I decided to explore downstream. Cataract Canyon has the biggest rapids on the Colorado River outside the Grand Canyon, and it started just downstream. I headed that way, following a faint path on a bench just above the river. I wound my way through boulders and passed a lovely beach. Finally I could see the first rapid ahead. I walked down to the water's edge to get a better look. It reminded me of Granite Rapids in the Grand Canyon. There were huge waves, and no obvious route through. Then, I was treated with the opportunity to see a raft run the rapid. It was a motorized raft though, and it was a little off line as it approached the first waves. The guide used the throttle to correct his position before taking on the waves. I was pretty disappointed.

It looked like it could rain at any moment, so I hurried back to camp. Christy and I had lunch before I decided to set off on another adventure. The confluence of the Green and Colorado (more properly known as the Grand) was only a few miles upstream. I was pretty sure that the path I had been on would take me there. Christy decided to join me against her better judgement. We both decided to hike in tevas, since we couldn't bear to force our exhausted feet back into our boots.

We hiked upstream, enjoying the views of the river and the soaring cliffs above. The hike was flat but still difficult, as we had to negotiate the best route between shrubs, cacti, flowers, rocks, and the fragile cryptobiotic soil. The farther we went the more difficult it became. Finally though we could see a break in the cliffs on the far side of the river. We climbed up over boulders to get a better view. From our perch, we could see the brown water of the Green River merge with the thick black soup of the Colorado.

The walk back was long and tiring. When we reached camp, we were both content to sit and watch the ducks out on the river. Then we built a fire out of driftwood right on the beach. The fire was semi-legal. Fires aren't allowed in the backcountry in the park, but they are allowed on river trips. If this didn't qualify as a river trip, I don't what does. I was low on fuel, so we heated water over the fire for soup and freeze dried dinners. Afterwards it was a joy to sit and watch the flames dance.

Later, we had a visitor to camp. A single bat kept buzzing us, twice flying right into my face. There were animal tracks throughout the sand by our campsite, but we didn't see anything else. Christy and I both dozed in front of the fire before finally heading for the tent.

CONFLUENCE

Saturday night brought the first rain of the trip. It actually sprinkled enough to wake me up once or twice during the night. It still wasn't much though. When I got up at 6AM the sand was still dry outside the tent. We had a cold breakfast of cereal bars and pop tarts while I filtered water. The pumping got slower and slower and we each took turns. Finally it clogged up for good. Luckily we had enough to get us out.

We hit the trail early with 12 miles ahead of us. First we had to climb out of Lower Red Lake Canyon. The climb went surprisingly well, and we actually made it up faster than we had come down. Shortly afterwards we had the day's first adventure. I was preparing to step down between 2 rocks when something caught my eye. I paused in mid-stride as the image sunk in. There was a rattlesnake draped around a bush right next to my foot. I jumped back without thinking, but the snake didn't move at all. We left the trail to get around it, but it never moved. Christy was convinced that it was dead. I was curious, so I tossed a pebble at it. Nothing. Another rock, and still no reaction. So I reached out with my hiking stick and poked it. RATTLE! We both jumped. No, it definitely wasn't dead. That was enough fooling around for us. We turned and hurried down the trail.

We retraced our steps to Cyclone Canyon. From there, we walked up the flat grassy canyon bottom for a couple of miles. When we reached the junction with the confluence trail, we hid our packs. We each carried a camera, water bottle and rain jacket as we took the short side trip out to the confluence overlook. The trail from Big Springs overlook is 11 miles round trip, but there were lots of hikers out there with us. It was a bit of a shock. We had seen a few people in canoes the day before, but that was about it. After a few days of solitude, we were nearing civilization.

We hiked out to the overlook, where we could gaze down on the confluence of the Green and Colorado. It was an exhilarating spot, with sheer cliffs all around. Meanwhile, the wind was picking up and clouds were building. Rain was beginning to fall out in the Maze. We had a hurried lunch before we began to hustle back. Soon, black clouds surrounded us. Black clouds were above us. And it was raining, sort of. Occasionally a few drops would reach us, but for the most part it was evaporating on the way down. A few minutes later, the clouds parted and the sun came out. Then, the weather continued to get stranger. At one moment it would be sunny, calm, and almost hot. Then it would cloud up, the wind would howl, and temperatures would plummet. After changing clothes 3 or 4 times, I decided to stick just a nylon shirt and pants and be cold half the time. Christy went with polartec fleece and was hot half the time. Sometimes you can't win.

The last 5 miles of the hike took us through some great terrain. From one plateau we had a distant view of the Needles which looked like skyscrapers. The mountains in the distance were hidden by snow clouds. Then we dropped into Lower Elephant Canyon and wandered through the sandy wash for awhile. We climbed back out, only to plunge down into Big Springs Canyon. From the rim, we could see the parking lot at the trailhead. What was that in the distance? Yes! A red Daewoo! A 2 person chant rang out. Daewoo! Daewoo! We worked our way down one final hair raising descent before climbing out the far side. Minutes later, we were at the car. It was a pleasure to get the pack off, and even better to remove the boots.

We still had a few days left for our vacation, so we needed to decide how to spend them. Originally we had planned to drive through Monument Valley Sunday night and on to Page, AZ. Then we'd hike the Buckskin Gulch slot canyon on Monday and explore the Escalante area on Tuesday. We decided that was too much driving though, and planned to spend the last couple of days in the same general area. We discussed camping that night near Lake Powell, but in the end we decided to set up camp at the Days Inn in Monticello. We figured that a campground plus showers would cost us at least $20. For $60 we got beds and a hot tub. The hot tub really did wonders for our sore feet. The nice folks at the hotel even let us take our beers in with us. After the day's killer hike, I was pretty much drunk on a beer and a half. We also got a restaurant meal, which wasn't terribly exciting. My first choice was ribs, which they were out of. My second choice was fried chicken, which they were also out of. We both got burgers. When we returned to the hotel, it was snowing. Down in the desert, everything was evaporating, but it was a different story up in the foothills. Needless to say, we didn't have any trouble getting to sleep that night.





Continue reading about our trip as we explore Anasazi ruins on the Cedar Mesa.

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