APRIL (SNOW) SHOWERS
While most folks are
enjoying, or at least eagerly anticipating, the arrival of spring, I haven’t
quite finished with winter yet. This
past weekend, Joel and I suffered through an encore performance from old man winter. I had heard that the mountains were getting
snow all last week, so we decided to try one more winter hike before the white
stuff became a distant memory. We
reasoned that Mount Rogers offered the best combination of snow and accessibility
and decided to head that way.
I met Joel near Yadkinville
and rode with him over miles of curvy roads through Sparta and beyond. It was a windy but sunny day, and we were
looking forward to clear views from the meadows of Wilburn Ridge. Our plan was to hike from Massie Gap in Grayson
Highlands State Park to the summit of Mt. Rogers and back. As we neared the Virginia state line, we got
our first glimpse of the high peaks.
Well, we didn’t really see the peaks, as they were lost in the whiteout
of an ongoing snowstorm. In fact, it
looked like Mount Rogers had it’s own cloud anchored overhead, as the
surrounding countryside was bathed in sunshine.
We reconsidered our
options. We’ve both hiked at Mount
Rogers in brutal winds and blowing snow enough to not want to do it again. As we drove through Mouth of Wilson, I
improvised a change in plans. We
decided on a loop hike on the east side of the range. This hike would keep us in shelter of the forest for the most
part. We drove towards Troutdale, but
turned left off the highway before we reached town on Rocky Hollow Road
(Virginia 739). We followed a narrow,
winding road through cow pastures. This
was a thrill for Saucony. Saucony loves
cows.
We left the pavement and the
farms behind as the road continued into the woods. Finally we reached an obscure jeep road on the left. It’s totally unmarked, but somehow I
recognized it as the trailhead for the Hightree Rock Trail, despite not having
hiked here in 6 years. If you’re
looking for this trailhead, you’ll need a good topo map (the Mount Rogers
recreation area map will do). There is
a red blaze of paint on a tree at the turn for the jeep road. From this turn, it’s about 2.5 miles north
to the end of the road at Virginia route 603.
We went up the jeep road a
short distance and parked on the right.
We could’ve driven farther up, but there wasn’t any point since it was a
loop hike. We gathered our gear and
were shocked at the cold. Even in the
shelter of the woods, the wind slashed through our various layers. Apparently the temperature was below
freezing, as it began snowing shortly before we arrived.
We hiked up the jeep road,
with a pleasant stream on the left.
After a couple hundred yards, we passed a few houses on private land on
the right side of the road. We turned away
from them and continued up the valley.
Eventually we reached a fork, with one branch turning left to ford the
creek. We continued ahead, and the road
eventually curved left to a stream crossing.
After an easy rock hop, we gradually ascended away from the stream.
The trail climbed gradually,
reaching the boundary of the Little Wilson Creek Wilderness Area at a ford of
Mill Creek. We rock hopped 2 branches
of the stream and reached a hunters cabin just outside the wilderness
area. The door was wide open, so we
looked inside. The cabin is equipped
with bunk beds, a wood stove, and even an old sofa. There is a privy nearby, which could be useful in an emergency. It was almost lunch time, but we didn’t
linger long.
We continued on the road,
which narrowed considerably after the cabin.
A tunnel of rhododendron eliminated most of the traffic beyond it,
though there were still some signs of illegal ATV use. We stopped for a quick lunch at a spring and
a large rock. I had hoped that the rock
would block the wind, but it didn’t really help. I enjoyed hot soup from a thermos, while Joel looked jealous as
he ate a cold sandwich. I would’ve
shared, but I had only brought one spoon.
There are limits to sharing! We
only stayed about 15 minutes, as the snow was beginning to accumulate on the
dog.
We hiked a short distance to
Hightree Rock. Here is a campsite at
the top of a cliff. There is a nice
view from the rocks, especially to the north towards Iron Mountain. In the summer the foliage would partially
block the view. Today it was obscured
only by thick snow clouds.
We hiked on and eventually
began climbing more steadily towards First Peak. We crossed a year-round stream, and the hard part of the trail
began. The last time I’d hiked here, we
had fought our way uphill through knee-deep snow. Today, the only snow was falling on us. At least that was true for a while. By the time we reached the junction with the First Peak Trail and
the Kabel Trail, the ground was mostly covered.
We continued climbing up
First Peak. The trail is very rocky,
and the snow hid most of them. It was a
sprained ankle waiting to happen, but everyone made it to the top without
incident. On the way, we spooked 2
white-tailed deer that dashed away through the snow.
After wooded First Peak, we
descended to an unnamed gap between First and Second Peaks. For the sake of simplicity, let’s call it 1
and ½ gap. Here we found a pair of
clearings that make ideal campsites, except for the numerous cow pies. Be careful where you pitch your tent!
We were startled by 2 other
hikers here. I didn’t expect to see
anyone, as I assumed that only we were crazy enough to be out in such brutal
conditions. Joel had seen enough, so he
decided to get a head start on the return hike. He started down the Shapiro Trail, but I decided to extend the
hike a bit. I continued through ankle
deep snow to the summit of Second Peak.
Despite the clouds, I was hoping for a view from the balds there. I reached the meadows, and was stunned at
the fury of the storm. The winds were
so strong I could barely walk against them.
It felt as if my face were freezing to the back of my skull. I struggled to the very top, and took in the
view. At first, I could only see as far
as Stone Mountain, only a mile or two distant.
I was ready to turn back, when the clouds cleared slightly. Suddenly, the rugged crest of Wilburn Ridge
loomed out of the fog. I’ve heard that
scientists speculate that Wilburn Ridge is the remains of a crater of a
prehistoric volcano. I’d always been
skeptical, but today it looked like the very vision of Mordor as it emerged
from the clouds.
I was beginning to fear for
my extremities, so my visit to Second Peak was a brief one. I can only imagine what our hike would’ve
been like if we had tried to climb Wilburn Ridge. Very brief, I suspect. I
returned to 1 and ½ gap and hurried down the Shapiro Trail. It was relief to be in relative shelter
again, but the descent was tedious. The
trail alternated between snowy, rocky, and muddy. Occasionally it was all 3 at the same time. A couple of steep stretches added to the
fun, so it was a relief to reach a gate and a gravel road. I descended the road, but paused to wander
out into an open field. The meadow
provided a nice pastoral view, but the wind was still brutal. I hurried back to the trail and continued
down to Rocky Hollow Road. Here I found
an alternate trailhead and parking area.
At the lower end, it is referred to as the Jackie Street Trail. From this trailhead it is 1 mile north on
Rocky Hollow Road to Route 603.
My timing was good, as Joel
drove up just as I reached the road. He
had walked the mile and a half of road to close the loop while I had taken my
side trip to Second Peak. We parked and
enjoyed a celebratory post-hike beer, which completely failed to warm me
up. It did help me have a nap though on
the drive back to Elkin. I was pretty
worn out, as we had covered 10 miles, with over 2000’ of elevation gain, in 5 ½
hours. We did the hike almost nonstop,
as it had been too cold for extended rests.
It had been a fun adventure, but I’m hoping for sunshine and flowers the
next time I visit Mount Rogers.
Back to Virginia
Back to Hiking and Backpacking Trip Reports
Please remember to Leave No Trace!