DUCKABUSH
Brian
and I decided to get an early start and go for a hike on Friday. Before leaving the island, we stopped at a
grocery store, where we picked up a sub to share. I was concerned, as the sub was made using an entire loaf of
French bread. Needless to say, we
looked a little silly carrying that thing up to the cash registers.
This
time, we chose a destination closer to home.
We crossed the Hood Canal to the Olympic Peninsula, but headed south on
highway 101. Our destination was the
Duckabush River, which runs east out of the Olympic Mountains.
Our
first stop was the Fallsview Campground.
The campground was closed for the season, so we parked near the gate and
walked from there. Our destination was
the waterfall that the campground is named for. The campground seemed pretty nice, but its location near the
highway resulted in more traffic noise than would be considered ideal for a
camping experience.
A
short walk brought us to an overlook and a view of the falls. The waterfall is nice, but the viewpoint is
from above, looking down on the falls.
We spent only a few minutes there before heading on.
We
drove past a ranger’s station, and continued on to a bridge over the Duckabush
River. Just before the bridge, we
turned onto Duckabush River Road and headed upstream. Before long, the pavement ended, and the rest of the drive was a
fun game of dodging potholes. A few
miles later, we turned right at a fork and arrived at the trailhead for the
Duckabush River Trail. At the
trailhead, we discovered that we needed a Northwest Forest Pass to park
there. We were in Olympic National
Forest, as the Duckabush River Trail doesn’t enter the National Park until
several miles upstream. You can’t
purchase a pass at the trailhead, so I left my National Park’s Pass (which
isn’t really applicable) on the dashboard.
We decided we’d purchase the appropriate pass at the ranger’s station on
the way home after the hike.
We
headed up the trail, and immediately began a gentle climb to Little Hump. Initially the forest was pleasant, if a bit
disappointing, by Olympic standards.
Near the crest of Little Hump, we crossed into the Brothers Wilderness,
and were immediately greeted by larger trees.
Many were covered in moss, and ferns were abundant. The Olympic rain forest is on the other side
of the peninsula, but even here, on the “dry” side, the woods have the
appearance of a rain forest.
We
descended quickly, and found ourselves on the bank of the river. The Duckabush is a beautiful river, and we
enjoyed a lovely walk upstream, passing dozens of rapids. We spotted a nice campsite tucked among
large fir trees, and abruptly left the river for the biggest climb of the
day. Ahead of us was an elevation gain
of almost 1000’, most of it on tight switchbacks. We headed uphill, bound for the summit of Big Hump and the views
the peak promised.
The
climb was steady, but not too steep.
Near the top, we passed an immense spring above a rock face. The rock is covered by moss that is an
outlandish shade of neon green. For
Brian and I, the rock face and spring was a highlight of the hike. Another highlight was the large trees. Most of the biggest ones were firs, but
Brian noted a couple of sizeable cedars as well.
Near
the top of the climb we passed close to a waterfall before arriving at a series
of rock outcrops. The cliffs provide
nice views of the Duckabush River Valley, as well as snow-covered peaks
towering high above. Although it was a
cloudy day, the clouds were high, allowing for unobstructed views of the peaks. We were standing at 2000’, and the first
snow began not far above us. We
followed the trail beyond the viewpoint, hiking through more appealing forest,
before we began to head down. We
decided that the 4 miles we’d hiked was far enough, and returned to the
overlook for an early lunch.
Afterwards,
we headed down quickly. We had seen
only one person that morning, but the hike out was practically crowded. We passed several groups heading in,
including one group of six women and 5 young children. We returned to the car by early afternoon,
and headed for home. On the way, we
stopped at the ranger’s station and Brian purchased a season pass good in all
of the National Parks and forests.
After
three relatively nice days, the weather finally returned to normal on
Saturday. That morning, I endured a
chilly run on the muddy trails of Manzanita Park on Bainbridge Island. That afternoon, I joined the family for a
visit to Seattle. We took the ferry
over, but stayed inside to avoid the rain.
Personally, I was glad that it was raining. Somehow, a visit to Seattle wouldn’t have seemed right without
it. Once in Seattle, we toured
downtown, passing numerous Starbucks on the way. You might say that Starbucks is to Seattle as Waffle House is to
South Carolina.
Late
that afternoon, we took the official tour of the Seattle underground. It turns out that Seattle was originally
built on a tide plain that flooded twice a day at high tide. This caused many problems, not the least of
which involved difficulties with the local sewer system. Some years later, Seattle burned. The town was rebuilt in the same place, but
the streets were raised by approximately one story. This left the newly rebuilt businesses in town one story below
street level. The underground was born,
and it lasted for years before being condemned. These days, the underground is pretty much a tourist attraction,
although some businesses in the area still operate out of their basements.
Highlights
of the tour included the history of early Seattle. Much of this history, regrettably, revolves around plumbing
problems and overflowing toilets. If
you want to learn more about that, I suggest you take the tour!
That
evening, we returned to the island where we feasted on some fantastic pizza from
a local restaurant. We also enjoyed
some local beer. Perhaps I enjoyed too
much local beer, because later that night I ignored Brian’s warning not to use
the bathroom in hall. Apparently, the
toilet in that bathroom leans a bit to the left. Fortunately, I was also leaning a bit to the left at that point,
so it all worked out. Luckily, I wasn’t
leaning to the right on this particular evening. If I had been, who knows how that would’ve turned out. At least the cat’s litter box is located
just to the right off the toilet. If
there had been an accident, nobody would’ve known. Well, nobody except the cat.
I
went to bed early that night, as I had to get up early in the morning. I was working in Eugene, Oregon the next
week, and my plan was to head that way early on Sunday. On the way, I’d stop and hike in the
Columbia River Gorge east of Portland.
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Please remember to Leave No Trace!