BLISS (AND SOME OF THE OTHER EMOTIONS)
I
started my morning with oatmeal and coffee before exploring Needle Creek in
hopes of finding a safe way across. I
had already decided against trying to ford the creek
where the trail crosses. That was a
narrow spot, where the water was deep and swift. I might make it across there, but it would be
risky. Instead, I followed the creek
downstream to where it is braided.
The
first braid is just a short distance downstream from the trail. Unfortunately, at least 90% of the water was
going down the left channel. That
channel braids again a little farther downstream. From my vantage point, it looked like most of
the water went left again. Still, that
looked like my best option. Farther
downstream is all whitewater, and then Needle Creek joins the river. Upstream was all whitewater, too. I might have found a good spot farther
upstream, but how far out of the way did I want to go? I decided to pack up and try it at the
braid. If I couldn’t make it across, I
would need to retreat to the trailhead and come up with a totally new trip
plan.
I
broke camp and returned to the creek. Attempting
the ford in flip flops was obviously a bad idea, so I took off my socks and
removed the footbeds from my boots.
Crossing the first channel was easy, but the water was ice cold. This early in the season, it is mostly snow melt. Then I
followed the creek downstream through a slippery rock garden. I reached the next braid a couple of minutes
later. As I suspected, most of the water
went left and cascaded into a narrow frothing channel. Downstream wasn’t an option. I would have to either cross there or
retreat.
I
was nervous, but unwilling to give up without a try. I crossed the second small channel, and the approached the main stream. I worked my way across in
the one stretch that wasn’t whitewater.
At least I could see where I was putting my feet in that area. I was almost across when I reached the
sketchy part. Most of the flow was
concentrated in a narrow stretch only a few feet across. By the time I reached it, it was easier to
keep going than to turn back. After two
more steps I was out of the worst of it and then I was scrambling up the
bank. What a relief! Unfortunately, I still had major fords of
Saddle Creek, East Fork Creek, and the river ahead of me.
I
drained as much water as possible out of my boots before putting them back
on. Hiking in wet boots all day really
wasn’t that bad, although the water made them heavier. After a bit of rock scrambling and mild
bushwhacking I returned to the trail. I
enjoyed an easy mile of hiking, passing numerous campsites. I had just started to warm back up when I
reached Saddle Creek. Oh well, so much
for that.
The
trail crosses Saddle Creek at a narrow spot, too. Unfortunately, I didn’t see a better spot
upstream or down. Saddle Creek is a
little smaller than Needle Creek, and it didn’t look as bad. I decided to attempt the direct
approach. I took off my socks and
removed the footbeds again before plunging in.
This one was similar, in that there was one short stretch where I
thought that I might get knocked off my feet.
After a couple of steps I was past it, and then
I was back on dry ground.
I
passed a campsite and then began to climb.
The river goes through another slot canyon upstream from Saddle Creek,
and once again the trail bypasses it by traversing the cliffs high above. The climb warmed me up quickly, but it wasn’t
as tough as the climb on the previous day.
There were a few nice views of the slot canyon far below, but the real
highlight was seeing the waterfalls on Silver Creek cascading down the mountain
on the far side of the canyon.
From
there I descended to the river upstream from the canyon. The trail stayed closer to the river for a
while, providing some nice views. There
were a few wet areas and mud holes to contend with, but they were
manageable. It was late morning at this
point, and I should have stopped for lunch early. It was sunny and getting hot, and I didn’t
realize that I was about to enter a long stretch of burned forest. I endured a long stretch of sweaty hiking
without any shade. Finally
I came upon a single living tree that was positioned perfectly to block the
sun. I had lunch there, happy to have
just a little shade. I definitely needed to improve my lunch site selection going
forward though.
Reaching
East Fork Creek was actually a relief after the hot
hike through burned forest. This creek
is wider, and the crossing is easier than Needle Creek. The water was a little over knee deep, with a
moderately strong current. However,
there was nearly a mishap. I was most of
the way across when I dislodged a large rock.
It rolled into my path and stopped right where I was planning to put my
foot. There was an awkward moment, as I
had one foot in the air and nowhere to go.
I fumbled around for a bit before jamming it between two rocks. I recovered my balance and scrambled up to
the trail.
The
first crossing of the river was a short distance beyond. The trail actually splits
shortly before the ford. The trail to
the right is blocked off, and it looked like there was some deadfall in the
river right at the crossing. I took the
trail to the left, which winds around a bit before descending to the river a
short distance upstream from the other fork.
This crossing was similar to East Fork Creek,
but without any mobile rocks trying to trip me.
Still it was a relief to have the biggest creek
crossings of the trip behind me.
An
easy stretch of trail followed, although I was still in the burn. I stayed close to the river, heading upstream
to Younts Creek. Younts Creek and
Marston Creek were fairly easy to wade. Before Marston Creek I spotted an unoccupied
outfitter camp in a meadow on the far side of the river. When I reached Marston Creek, I spotted a
possible campsite in another meadow on the far side of the river. I was determined to reach Bliss Meadows for
the night, but I made a mental note of the spot.
The
next stretch of trail was difficult, with lots of steep climbs and gullies in
another stretch of burned forest. I was
nearing the end of a 13 mile day, and I was running
out of gas. I finally crested a hill and
spotted Bliss Meadows ahead of me. It
was a lovely sight, after spending most of the day in burned forest. I descended back towards the river, reaching
a junction with the trail to Clark Creek and Pierpont Pass. I followed it in hopes of finding a campsite,
but I reached a ford after a short distance.
There was a marginal place to camp before the crossing, but I wasn’t
willing to slum it at that point. There
may have been good spots on the far side, but they weren’t apparent from my
vantage point. Instead
I returned to the trail and continued upstream.
Before
long I reached the beginning of the meadows.
All I could see were willows, which don’t make for ideal campsites. However, there was a small stand of trees off
to my left, near a grassy area. I headed
that way, eyeing up the prospects of camping in the grass. That would have worked, but I found a
fantastic campsite back in the stand of trees, complete with a bear bag hang for my extra food.
Perfect!
I
set up the tent at the far end of the site, close to the river and as far from
the bear bag hang as possible. Then I set up my cooking and eating area in
the grassy meadow, which featured a nice view up the valley.
There
was a little excitement that evening. I
was cleaning up from dinner when I heard a loud splash in the river just
downstream from my campsite. I grabbed
the bear spray and hurried down there, hoping to see an elk or moose crossing
the river. I’m not sure what it was,
because it was gone by the time I got there.
Whatever it was had been BIG to make that much
noise.
Late
that night I heard a beaver slapping its tail on the water in the river near my
tent. That was entertaining, and a lot
less threatening than the big splash from earlier in the evening.
Back to Wyoming
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Please remember to Leave No Trace!