ELATION

I woke Friday morning to cloudy skies. Overcast conditions are perfect for waterfall photography, and I was planning to spend a lot of time photographing waterfalls on this day. In fact, day 6 was my only remaining planned layover day. I had skipped the first planned layover day earlier in the trip, so I was looking forward to making the most of this one. I love a good layover day. There is nothing like a whole day dedicated to exploring without needing to carry a heavy pack. Also, there is no need to pack up camp and then set it up again later.

I was so excited that I skipped my normal breakfast routine. I got dressed and headed for the waterfalls. I started with a steep scramble down to the base of the second waterfall. That provided a nice view, but what I really wanted was a vantage point for both the first and second waterfalls. I climbed back up but then scrambled and bushwhacked around the top of a cliff to find the view I wanted. That spot provided a great vantage point, but it wasn’t a particularly comfortable (or safe) place to hang out.

I retreated quickly to the campsite before following the brink of the cliffs downstream. Before long I reached an obvious scramble route down. It was pretty ugly, with lots of loose rock and scree. It wasn’t as bad as it looked, but it was a slow, careful descent to the base of the 3^rd and 4^th waterfall. Those waterfalls are stunning, and larger than the ones upstream.

My guidebook only mentions 4 waterfalls below the lake, but the terrain and the topo map both indicated that there were more below. The wasn’t an obvious route to continue, and it was starting to sprinkle. I decided to head back up to camp and regroup.

It started to really rain right when I reached the tent, so I got back in. Now what? Take a nap? I was wide awake, so that wasn’t a reasonable option. I spent a few minutes studying the map and planning my route (again). I decided that I would head back to the base of waterfalls 3 and 4 and continue downstream from there. The map suggested at least 3 or 4 waterfalls a short distance downstream, not counting Lake Fork Falls, which is maybe a mile downstream. I thought I might be able to follow the creek all the way down, although the terrain looked pretty rugged in the canyon leading down to Lake Fork Falls.

Luckily the rain passed before I got too bored. I got out and made my oatmeal and coffee. After breakfast I organized my gear for a long dayhike, packed everything else up, stashed my food in the bear box, and headed back down to the creek. I scrambled back down to the base of waterfalls 3 and 4, and then scrambled and bushwhacked down from there. Light rain resumed, but it was only a minor annoyance. I passed 3 more waterfalls in quick succession, each one as lovely as the ones upstream.

The best spot was actually a bit downstream from the 7^th waterfall. I turned around to see a truly jaw dropping view. Waterfalls 5, 6, and 7 were right in front of me, and the first two waterfalls were visible way up at the top of the cliff. It was such an incredible spot that I will always think of it as Elation Point.

The map suggested one more significant waterfall about a ½ mile downstream. That one is at the head of a deep, narrow canyon. From there it is quite a way downstream to Lake Fork Falls. I decided to try to reach the first one (waterfall #8) and figure it out from there.

The next stretch required some serious willow bashing, but I made it through pretty quickly. From there I enjoyed easy walking through flowery meadows just above the creek. That continued all the way down to a substantial cascade that leads right to the brink of waterfall #8. That waterfall drops into a narrow canyon. I didn’t see a safe way down, but I was able to skirt along the top of the cliff to a good viewpoint.

Waterfall #8 is stunning, too. Getting down looked impossible, and continuing to sidehill along the brink of the canyon looked impractical. Continuing on might have worked, but it looked like it would be tough and slow going. Getting through might be impossible. After a brief debate I decided to backtrack a short distance and then head up. There is an official trail up on the ridge above, and it would take me to Lake Fork Falls. That would be a longer route with a big, steep climb, but it might actually be easier and faster.

I think it probably was. The climb was steep but not unbearable, through mostly open woods. It also featured some nice distant views of the waterfalls along the way. Once I reached the trail I enjoyed a fast, easy hike back down into the valley. I reached a junction, where I turned right to continue the descent down to the creek. The trail crosses the stream just downstream from Lake Fork Falls, which is another beauty. I switched to flop flops to cross the creek, as the view of Lake Fork Falls is better from the far side.

From there I backtracked to the junction I’d passed earlier. I continued ahead there, instead of heading back up to Ferry Lake. Easy trail hiking led to a rock hop crossing of the stream that may or may not be called Lake Fork. The map suggests two waterfalls on this stretch of creek, and I wanted to check them out. Once on the far side I left the trail and followed the creek upstream. The terrain along the stream was steep, so I left it and headed steeply up the parallel ridge. I passed above the first spot, which has a run of cascades but no significant waterfalls.

The second spot is a short distance upstream. This one has a waterfall, and it is pretty cool. Here, the stream drops down through a grotto. I had a pretty good view from the cliff, but this one demanded a closer look. I descended steeply through thick vegetation and incredible wildflowers to reach the creek just downstream. I scrambled up slippery rocks to get a closer view from the base of the waterfall.

I took a more direct route leaving, which was a mistake. It looked steep but reasonable from below, but it was a lot worse than it appeared. There was very little to hold onto, and the slope had a lot of unexpected loose rocks. None of the rocks were trustworthy, but I was committed. It was a huge relief when I finished crawling out of there.

From that point I continued up the ridge parallel to the creek. I reached a knoll with a view of the pretty waterfall that is just above the trail. I reached the trail on the far side. I decided to do some additional exploring instead of following it back towards Ferry Lake.

I crossed the trail and continued up the valley and into the headwaters of the stream. I climbed above treeline quickly, and passed through an open valley featuring grass and wildflowers and a small pond. I reached the Continental Divide, before swinging back to the west along a bench. I climbed over another ridge before beginning a long descent towards Ferry Lake. I rejoined the trail above the lake, and returned to my campsite.