CAVE
FALLS
We
drove into West Yellowstone at 4:30 and stopped at the Visitor Center to pick
up our backpacking permit. The Visitor
Center closes at 8pm, so we weren’t worried about the time. However, the Ranger Station inside the
Visitor Center closes at 5pm. This
little nugget of trivia isn’t published in the park newspaper or on the park
website. We walked in at 4:32, which is
still well before 5pm. However, it takes
30 minutes to process a permit. The
Ranger was initially reluctant to start the process, since that might mean
having to stay two minutes past 5pm. He
was a really nice guy though, and was sympathetic to our situation. In theory we could’ve gotten the permit at
the Bechler Ranger station Thursday morning, except
that it is only open sporadically. What
really saved us, beyond the sympathetic ranger, was being prepared. We had our paperwork already filled out. Luckily, I had the license plate number for
our car stored in my phone. After going
through all of the processing, watching the 20 minute
bear video, and paying the fee, it was 4:57.
Hooray for efficiency! It’s happy
hour!
Happy
hour for us was ice cream. It was a hot
day, and West Yellowstone is just the kind of place where you go get ice
cream. We also got a few groceries for
our backpacking trip. Then we drove
through a little corner of Montana and into Idaho. This drive passes parts of the Yellowstone
Caldera, but there wasn’t much too see from the road. I thought there might be some official
overlooks, but if there were, we missed them.
We also decided to skip Mesa Falls.
We’d been there once before, and we wanted to find a campsite before
dark.
We
drove to Ashton, Idaho and stopped at another grocery store to get the things
we’d forgotten at the grocery store in West Yellowstone. Ashton is a tiny town, but the store is
actually pretty decent. Then we made the
one hour drive to Cave Falls. The ranger had warned us that the road was
rough, but I’m pretty confident I could have driven our Prius down it. We made great time in the Subaru. Early on we drove through farmland featuring
distant views of the Tetons. Unfortunately it was a very hazy view, due to smoke from a
forest fire in Yellowstone’s northwest corner.
We
passed the turn to the Bechler Ranger Station before
taking a short side road to the Cave Falls Campground. This campground is in the National Forest
just outside of Yellowstone National Park.
It’s a primitive, cheap campground on the Falls River. The first half of the campground features
marginal sites up on a hillside that were all empty. If you crave solitude, one of those spots
would be a good choice. We continued on
to a much nicer spot close the river. We
had neighbors, but the sites are spacious, so it didn’t seem crowded. It was a lightly wooded spot, and the river
was a short walk. The Falls River was a
wide, raging torrent. The area had
received above average snowfall the previous winter, and water levels were
still pretty high. The sound of the
river was quite soothing back at our campsite.
Christy
made dinner and we began organizing our gear.
The mosquitoes were pretty bad that evening, but our Thermacell
worked well. The Thermacell
runs on camp stove fuel, and uses chemical pads to repel the mosquitoes. Our only concern was that it has a reputation
for not working at higher elevations.
I’d read that Thermacell’s aren’t effective
above 6,000’. That was our approximate
elevation, but it worked fine. I’m not
sure if it would’ve worked higher up during our backpacking trip. I carried the Thermacell
on our six day trip, and there were plenty of
mosquitoes in places. Unfortunately, the
lightweight fuel cartridges Christy purchased weren’t actually compatible with
our Thermacell.
So the Thermacell and
fuel cartridges were dead weight during the whole trip.
We
were planning a six day backpacking trip that would
hit numerous waterfalls and hot springs in the southwest corner of the
park. We’d start out at Cave Falls on
the Falls River, before hiking upstream along the Bechler
River to Bechler Falls and Bechler
Meadows. A side trip would take us to Dunada Falls on Boundary Creek for our first night. The next day we would backtrack to Bechler Meadows, before hiking upstream along the Bechler River through Bechler
Canyon. We’d pass two more massive
waterfalls – Colonnade Falls and Iris Falls – on the Bechler
River, before reaching our campsite at Albright Falls, which is on an unnamed
tributary a mile downstream from Three River Junction. Day 3 would be a layover day. I planned to spend it exploring waterfalls
and hot springs along the Gregg Fork, Littles Fork, and Ferris Fork of the Bechler River. On
day 4 we would backtrack to Bechler Meadows before
continuing east into the Falls River drainage.
We’d camp along the Falls River on the fourth night. On the fifth morning we would move to a
campsite on Mountain Ash Creek. Then we
would spend the afternoon at massive Union Falls and at a fantastic swimming
hole nearby. The final day would be a
long hike back to Cave Falls.
We
slept in our hammocks that night. We
were expecting temperatures in the upper 40’s, but it was much colder due to
our proximity to the river. I’d guess it
wasn’t much above freezing when we got up the next morning. I was borderline uncomfortable in my hammock,
but it warmed up quickly once the sun rose above the trees.
DUNADA
I
got up early and made us a big breakfast.
Then we finished packing. From
there it was just a five minute drive to the trailhead
at Cave Falls. We could’ve started our
hike at the Bechler Ranger Station. That would’ve shortened our first day by a
couple of miles, but would’ve added a mile or so to the final day. It also would’ve meant missing Bechler Falls, and I wanted to see all of the major
features in this part of the park.
We
stopped at a lower trailhead and made a very short walk to view Cave
Falls. Cave Falls is only 20’ high but
it is 250’ wide, and on a massive river.
And yes, there is a cave, though it is really more of an overhang below
a cliff. That area was heavily posted
with signs saying it was off limits due to the danger of falling rock. Based on the amount of loose rocks scattered
around the base of the cliff, I decided to heed the closure. It didn’t look like much of a cave from my
vantage point, so I don’t think I missed much.
We
drove up to the official trailhead near the top of the falls and parked in a
semi-shady spot. Before starting the
backpacking trip, we walked out to an overlook at the brink of the falls. This is a pretty cool viewpoint almost directly
above the cave itself. Then it was time
to quit stalling and hoist our packs.
Despite the early morning start and the short drive, it was late morning
when we finally hit the trail.
The
hike from Cave Falls to our campsite near Dunada
Falls was a little over 9 miles. We
started out in heavy forest along the Falls River. After a mile or so we reached a beautiful,
powerful spot – the confluence of the Falls River and Bechler
River. Actually, the official name of
the Falls River is the Fall River.
Originally it was the Falls River, but locals in Idaho always called it
the Fall River. They petitioned the USGS
to officially change the name, because that was important, apparently. The name change makes no sense, as there are three
major waterfalls (Terraced Falls, Rainbow Falls, and Cave Falls) on the Fall(s)
River. Three. Plural.
There are also several unnamed, largely unknown waterfalls on it. It’s unclear which of those waterfalls “Fall”
River refers to. Despite the silliness
of the whole argument, the USGS approved the name change. Apparently because the locals in Idaho wanted
it, and the locals in Wyoming expressed no opinion on the matter. The locals in Wyoming (where all of the
actual waterfalls are located) consist primarily of elk, moose, and bear. There are no human locals along the Falls
River in Wyoming, because that part of the river is entirely within Yellowstone
National Park. I’m guessing that the elk,
moose, and bear don’t really care what we call it.
I’m
going to continue calling it the Falls River because that’s what my map says,
and “Fall River” is stupid. So there.
The
Bechler River forms in Three River Junction, where
the Ferris Fork, Gregg Fork, and Phillips Fork come together. Those streams all originate on plateaus in
Southwest Yellowstone and drop over numerous waterfalls before meeting at the
head of Bechler Canyon. Downstream the Bechler
runs through an impressive canyon featuring two spectacular cataracts, Iris
Falls and Colonnade Falls. Below the
canyon, the river meanders through massive Bechler
Meadows, before dashing through a final run of rapids and cascades to join the
Falls River.
The
Falls River starts on the Pitchstone Plateau in South-Central Yellowstone. It collects a number of major tributaries and
drops over the stunning Terraced Falls and the remote Rainbow Falls before
mellowing out. It wanders through
numerous meadows and wooded valleys before collecting the Bechler
River and tumbling over Cave Falls. It
then leaves the park and enters Idaho before joining the Henrys Fork and
ultimately the Snake River, the Columbia River, and the Pacific Ocean.
From
the confluence we continued upstream along the Bechler
River. We wandered through the woods for
a few minutes before we returned to the river just before reaching Bechler Falls, which is the last of three waterfalls on the
Bechler River.
At 15’ high, Bechler Falls is more of a
monstrous cascade or massive rapid than a true waterfall. However, it is a wide, powerful drop, and
worthy of a name. We spent a few minutes
there before continuing on to a junction adjacent to a peaceful stretch of
river.
We
had lunch by the river, and Christy took a quick dip to cool off. The cold night was a distant memory in the
afternoon heat. The next stretch of
trail took us through massive Bechler Meadows, which
was shadeless and even hotter. We had hazy views of the Tetons behind us,
and clearer views of mighty Ouzel Falls dropping off the plateau ahead of us,
near the mouth of Bechler Canyon. Ouzel Falls is a dramatic 230’ drop off the
plateau into Bechler Canyon. I hiked to the base of Ouzel Falls in
2003. That was a short but difficult
hike from our campsite, which required wading the river before a tough climb
with some nasty bushwhacking. I emerged
from the jungle right at the base of the falls.
From there I was looking straight up at the waterfall. It was a poor angle for viewing or for
photos, and most of the falls were hidden out of sight high above.
We
reached a junction deep in the heart of Bechler
Meadows and turned towards Dunada Falls on Boundary
Creek. We crossed numerous streams along
the way. One was crossed on a long
suspension bridge, while others were spanned by slippery, broken footlogs. One or two
required wading, but the water was shallow.
We passed several campsites, which are decent choices if you aren’t
lucky enough to claim the campsite near Dunada
Falls. We had reserved the campsites for
our trip in advance, and scored our first choice every night.
The
hike to Dunada Falls was long, but mostly easy. That changed at the end with a stout
climb. We were halfway up the ridge
separating Boundary Creek and a tributary when we reached a junction with a
spur trail to our campsite. A fairly
long walk brought us to our campsite, which is on a bench well above Boundary Creek. There was a large group of guys at our site
when we arrived. They were camping at
one of the sites nearby, and had just finished an afternoon of swimming and
sunbathing at the base of Dunada Falls. They were friendly, and helpful. They gave us some tips on the best way to
reach the base of the falls, which is a short but challenging hike. They also told us about the best swimming
holes. The canyon below Dunada Falls is full of hot springs, and they form several
incredible hot pools that are ideal for soaking.
Unfortunately,
I didn’t stumble upon the ideal tent site until late that evening, after
setting up the tent in an inferior spot.
The top of the ridge above the campsite features a clear, flat spot with
a view of the Tetons. I’ll remember that
next time.
We
hung our food, set up the tent, and headed to the falls. Dunada Falls is a
monster. It’s a 150’ sheer drop on a
powerful stream. However, it isn’t well
known due to its remote location. The
shortest access to it, from the Bechler Ranger
Station, is 7 ½ miles, one-way. Visiting
Dunada Falls was one of my top priorities for the
trip.
The
waterfall is less than a ¼ mile from the campsite, but it isn’t an easy
hike. We followed a faint path beyond
our tent, which led to a steep, muddy descent to the creek. When we reached the stream we forded it, as
River Left is cliffy. River Right was a
little easier. There is a faint path at
times, though we occasionally found it easier to walk in the creek. Caution is necessary on this stretch, as
there are numerous hot springs along the bank.
The runoff from the springs is hot enough that you don’t want to step in
them. A fair bit of hopping around was
necessary to continue upstream.
We
turned a sharp corner and scrambled past a boulder to get our first view of Dunada Falls. It’s a
stunner! I had high expectations for
this waterfall, but I was still blown away.
The waterfall is surrounded by cliffs, and the base of the falls is in a
deep gorge. We hurried upstream, eager
to soak in the hot pools near the base of the falls.
There
was a group of three backpackers there when we arrived. They had hiked to the top of the falls before
using a rope to descend to the bottom of the gorge. I don’t recommend this route. The descent isn’t vertical, but it’s steep
enough to be dangerous, and there is no vegetation to hold onto. It’s a long way down, too. Descending that route means hanging onto a
rope for dear life.
The
other hikers were just leaving, but we chatted with them for a couple of
minutes. After they disappeared
downstream, we had Dunada Falls to ourselves. We sampled each of the hot pools, which were
perfect. The water was just hot enough
to be soothing, without scalding. Oh,
and the entire time we were there, we had that massive waterfall to look at.
We
stayed there well until the evening before heading back to camp by the same
route. I set up the tent and built a
fire, and Christy heated up two of the meals she had dehydrated before the
trip. Her meals are tasty, nutritious,
and easy to prepare. They are much
better than the commercial freeze dried meals, which
are $10+ for a bag of flavored rice.
We
went to sleep shortly after dark. Day 2
would be a big day, with a long hike from Dunada
Falls back to Bechler Meadows, then upstream along
the Bechler River to our campsite at Albright Falls.
I
got up early on Friday. I seriously
considered going back to the base of Dunada
Falls. Instead, I decided to do a little
exploring. I returned to the main trail
and followed it uphill along a ridge above an unnamed tributary of Boundary
Creek. Before long I caught my first
glimpse of Silver Scarf Falls. This
waterfall drops off the plateau at the same point as Dunada
Falls. The two waterfalls are only about
100 yards apart, but they are very different.
Dunada Falls is a tall, powerful vertical
waterfall. Silver Scarf is a long, steep
sliding cascade on a smaller stream.
I
left the trail and bushwhacked down to the base. This was a mistake. It was a horrible bushwhack on a steep slope
through thick vegetation. When I reached
the base, I found the view disappointing.
I climbed up an incredibly steep hillside until I reached a satisfying
vantage point. The view and the angle
for photos was much better here. After a
few photos, I decided to continue back up to the trail rather than
backtracking. This proved to be much
easier. If you visit this one, stay on
the trail until you can see the falls.
Head down the slope until you find a vantage point you like, but don’t
bother with going to the base. Trust me
on this one.
Once
back on the trail, I knew I wasn’t far from the brink of Dunada
Falls. I decided to check it out. First, I took a spur trail over near the top
of Silver Scarf Falls. The view is
pretty limited here. I backtracked, and
climbed steeply to a knob high above the canyon. I passed the point where the group had
descended on a rope the previous afternoon. That descent looked even worse from
above! A short distance beyond I found a
cliff overlooking the top of the falls.
This is a cool view, too! Boundary
Creek is a raging torrent as it roars over the brink and into the canyon
below. This hike features some nice
bonus views of the Tetons in the distance, too.
Unfortunately, it was still hazy, so those views were somewhat limited.
I
returned to camp, and Christy and I had some of Christy’s homemade oatmeal and
coffee. She made three types of oatmeal
for the trip: maple and brown sugar,
banana chocolate peanut butter, and strawberry.
All of them were good, though the strawberry was my least favorite of
the three.
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