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Baking Heat At Tumlingtar


Farmer and goat

To begin our trek we needed to fly north-east from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar. We would then strike off northwards towards Mount Makalu, where we would eventually climb to about 17,250 feet on its south ridge.

We immediately lost our spare day when Cosmic Air had 'technical difficulties' and couldn't fly.

I remember little of the short flight the next day, except the blast of boiling hot air that entered the plane at Tumlingtar (close to sea level) when the plane's door opened.

Tumlingtar campsite, before we set off

Before the start

Pretty thatch & stilts building at Tumlingtar

Houses of thatch and stilts...

Our camp site was within a couple of fields of the airstrip. We saw lush vegetation and beautiful buildings of thatch and stilts.

Animals and human beings coexisted here.

We shared our field with shy buffaloes; bolder cows; fat pigs; a discreet cat; a giant bee which thought Steve's pocket was its hive; small, respectful goats; and curious village dogs.

Most curious of all were the children who came to stand and stare.

We ate by oil lamp - it was dahl bhatt, everyone's favourite (rice, greens and lentils, the Sherpa staple diet).

We were all abed by 8 30 pm.

There was no noise apart from distant conversations and far-off dogs barking.

It was much too hot to get to sleep easily; our sleeping bags were designed for much colder temperatures.

Dahl Bhatt by oil lamp

Eating by oil lamp and shadows


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