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Ozzie Diary

Ozzie Diary... August 2002

The Outback Beckons... Carl, Anna and 3 strangers hit the road for parts unknown!!!

Date: 6th August
Text by: Anna

2 Brits, 1 Irish (male), 1 Italien (male), and 1 German (female) depart Cairns Wednesday 24th July and head into the outback.................... The 1977 Toyota poptop loaded to the brim with people, bags, spares, tents, food, and of course booze! The last 12 days have involved passing through towns (or so they are called on the map) about 150km apart with populations ranging from 300 to just a mere 6!

Our first desired stop was at the Undara lava tubes taking us just 3 days to get there and highly acclaimed in the Lonely Planet. The campsite was nice and there were plenty of surrounding walks and so we booked in there for a couple of nights. But $33 to have a look at one lava tube and then another (the highlight being the bat hanging from the ceiling) didn't live up to the raging Lonely Planet's description! We did however manage to catch a beautiful sunset over the national park, but our 5am walk to catch the sunrise from the highest bluff was somewhat of a wasted effort (bloody clouds!). But we did see KAngaroos, wallabys and teased a cool hairy spider out od hisd hole in the ground!

And to keep you posted on the five travelling companions - so far so good! We set off once again, this time heading up to the gulf of Carpentaria to the little fishing town of Karumba. But before even leaving the campsite an oil leak was spotted (poor Toby the Toyota!). We made it to the next town (Mt Surprise; population about 10!) on a Sunday and no sign of the mechanic. He's off doing a tour round the gemfielfds or something. So we buy 10Litres of Oil and drove the next 150km to the following town (Georgetown; population about 100!) where we found a mechanic who offered to check it out the following day - so we pitched up and rested for the night. And with a new seal and having been told to expect a bit of oil leakage due to age of van we headed off once again.

All the way up to Karumba where we were told to catch the beautiful sunset over the sea, sippng a beer in the sunset tavern. We arrived just in time and with no choice but to stay on one of the pricey caravan parks, Carl headed off to try and catch tea (but having heard this once too many times decided to start cooking anyway!). The following day we realised that we had ended up in probably one of the most uneventful towns in the whole of Australia. Campsites were packed with people over 70 who all came up from the south for six months to get away from the cold weather. And they did nothing but sit by the sea and fish for those six months leaving us with a fishless sea (well that was Carl's excuse. [It's true I tell ya!! - Carl])!! We soon left.

And to keep you updated on the five travelling companions - the German was beginning to show her true colours! And the Italian made us some proper spaggetti bolognaise.

This time we were aiming for Lawn Hill National park. The journey was going well and we were making good progress. After just two days of driving we were almost there and probably tempted fate by ringing ahead to the campsite and booking ourselves a spot. Whilst heading down the last bit of sealed road before hitting the national park a tyre blew and the engine started to sound a little off colour! We instead made it to Gregory Downs; (population questionable but proably an estimated 7) which is just on the edge of the entry into Lawn Hill Park. At the only pub/motel/petrol station, they told us to go to the shop (there was only one!) where we would find the man (MUrray! The man who can!) who repaired tyres.

We were all feeling tired, grumpy and sweltering in the midafternoon heat and so whilst he fixed the tyre he told us to head down to the river where there was plenty of free camping and good swimming holes. It was truly beautiful with flowing crystal clear river water and campers scattered all along the rivers edge with fires burning to brew their tea.

So we stayed, and never made it to Lawn Hill. Instead we relaxed and swam in the river, and rented canoes for a day (from the man who owns the shop and fixes tyres and now also rents canoes!). We spent almost four days there in total and offered plenty of advice by the surrounding campers whom were mostly retired ozzies come up north to escape the colder southern climates. We even found some who let us borrow their washing machine (there were some well equipped campers!) and hence after 8 days we all had nice clean clothes. A night in the local pub/motel/petrol station left Carl, myself and the Seamus (Irish guy) slightly worst for ware but hardly a penny spent. We still aren't strictly sure how we managed it, but it seems as if Anna got more change when she bought drinks and Carl and Seamus had drinks bought for them off an old guy at the bar! But having left our mark on Gregory Downs (lightweights apparently!) we headed off again - this time for the Northern Teritory and on to the great Rock!

And to keep you posted on the five travelling companions - German girl has demonstrated complete inability to cook or do anything vaguely useful.
Her main talent seemed to be eating and replacing "just not quite empty" boxes of cereal back in the cupboard, thus annoying all and sundry. And with an ability to whinge at very inappropriate times Carl was beginning to try and pull (what's left) of his hair out (Hmpf... cheeky - Carl)! Irish and Italian on the other hand continue to provide great entertainment!

So we've changed some spark plugs and Carl has tinkered with the engine - it is sounding healthy again as we head off for our two day journey to Mt Isa. But on the same bit of road as before the same tyre bursts to a state beyond repair. With the spare tyre on we drive carefully to Burke and Wills RoadHouse (town apparently with population of six!). We find no tyre there and thus continue our journey slowly stopping at a scenic road side camping area for the night.

Unfortunately it was here that German member of our party having asked "WHY??!" she should cook, was told rather bluntly by the Italian that she "SHOULD" cook (we all had a few words to say. I think I may nearly have lost my temper. Barney and Choccy wouldn;t have recognised "nice guy Carl" with the amount of abuse I gave her in the inner sanctum of the van talking to Anna at night! - Carl)!

The following day we made it to Mt. Isa and the relief that crossed everybodies faces as we entered civilisation for the first time in 12 days was incredible. Shops, off-licences, pubs to choose from, people numbering more than 10!! As we pulled into the shopping centre for food, everyone looked happy and relieved... especially the German.

As we got out of the van, she approached Carl, asked for her mooney belt from the safe, and then promptly told him she was getting out fo the van and going to Ayers Rock on the bus. I don't think she expected the smile, the easy agreement and the big wave goodbye as we left her at the hostel gates.

Now its onto Darwin and Kakdu, so don't expect too many updates in the next few days! It is the outback out there you know!



Date: 18th August
Text by: Carlos

Here we are again. Back in civilization! Well, the nearest you can get in the Northern Territories... Katherine.

So whats happened in the last few days then. Firstly, we've had 2 blow outs at 80ish kph. Always makes for some fun, the wobbly van, the sudden bang and then the almost tortal loss of control as the van slides around the (dodgy, if not basically dust) road. So after a total of 4 blow outs, we're now expert tyre changers and are being head-hunted by Ferrari for next season.

We Left the huge metropolis of Mt Isa behind us ina sea iof dust and sunshine, just as the 2nd biggest rodeo in the world (after Calgary) had begun. The red-necks had massed in their pick-ups and yutes, the mullets were in their element (some absolute CLASSICS!!) and the comboy boots, tight blue jeans and cowboy boots were the main fashion accesory. But, we had to leave, no matter how much we wanted to stay and get into fights in saloon bars. One old boy actually told us the rules of engagement...

A guy will come over and ask you for a fight. If you say "Yes!", He'll punch you and the fight commences. If you say "Nah, mate. Just here for a few beers", he'll happily walk away and go ask somebody else. What manners, eh! So much better than the British mauls outsdide of pubs at 11.30pm.

So, after Mt. Isa we travelled West, passing Cammooweal (expensive petrol, nothing else) and then hitting the "three ways" junction. You eiother go back East, go North to Darwin or go South to Alice. 3-ways. you gotta love ozzies.

We stayed at a place called The Pebbles (aboriginal land in the middle of nowhere and illegally camped, but of course WE didn't know that!). Next day was feree showers at the petrol station (supposed to be 3$, but what the hell) and off to Daly Waters... a rest stop for travellers between 3-ways and Katherine.

What it is is a pub. In the middle of nowhere. With a campsite and a pool and showers. So we stayed for 2 nights! the first we got thoroughly drunk with the locals (one guy was a farmer from about 110km away. He was driving home of course), played pool and Luca and Seamus tried to pull. Unsuccessfully.

The next day was spent fixing the poor van. We have 1 bad tye ready to blow and problems with the dizzy cap. Bugger! We actually spent about an hour on the engine and the rest recovering from booze. NO one could be bothered driving the 250km to Mataranka. The problem with driving in the outback is the boredom. The scenery rarely changes. It's dry, and red, and there are a few trees and bushes, which is fine for the first 1000km, the the next 3000km get a bit dull.

Mataranka... what a god-send!!

In the middle of nowhere stands a pool like no other. It's free (although it costs to stay) and it's WARM! Thermal hot pools. The way forward. Beautiful. It sounds strnage toi want hot water when you're living in 30-40C heat all day, but it just FEELS nice!!

And then into the river too! The best bit is when you first jump in the river; it's hot.. it's cold... then it's hot again... then just your top half is hot and your feet are cold. Lovely!!
After that we bombed along to Katherine Gorge... a must for any traveller in N.T.


DEtails of Katherine and the NOrthern Territory can be found in Spetember's Diary entries. We realise this may confuse those who are following dates exactly, but we don't care. It's September now so We're gonna write it in Septemebr. So there!



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