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IRELAND


-The Green Island-

Its called the Green Island, but when you think about it, there is a lot of green Islands out in the world. What makes Ireland so special? It's said that Ireland, once visited, is never forgotten, and for once I have to agree. The Irish landscape is green and has a mythic resonance, due much to the country's tangible history. Sure, the weather is seldom warm and dry, however the large amount of rain falling over this country, creates the many different shades of green to compensate - just one of the reasons Ireland is called the Green Island

Ireland and mostly Dublin is a place that I hold very dear, which is the reason I went here twice. First time visited was in November 1995 when me and my friend Marie flew over for a week of party and shopping. The second time was in August 1996, when me and Marie traveled around the island for an entire month.

Most people who visit Ireland will first end up in the countries largest city and capital; Dublin. Dublin reminds me a little bit of New York. Its ruff, dirty and hard-core, but it has that little something that makes you love it. Dublin is a modern city, with modern problems: inner city traffic mess, unemployment, drugs and crime. “We are a friendly people, and most of us are not violent. It’s all those stupid drugs that brings out the worst in us” a Irish friend once told me. If you ask me Dublin is just like every other big city, if you stick to main streets and the better neighborhoods then you should be fine.

The old river Liffey swishes right through the heart of the city, dividing north from south, poor from rich. The Liffey is not very beautiful but it’s like a rugged and well used history book with many stories to tell. Liffey ties Dublin to its founding by Viking raiders, who sailed up the river to build a stronghold here in the ninth century. The Norsemen ruled Dublin, except for a brief period of Celtic ascendancy in the early 11th century, until Anglo-Norman forces backed by England’s King Henry II conquered the city in 1170.

My first week in Dublin was filled with partying, shopping and insanity. In one week Marie and I manage to end up with our colorful and touristy back packs in an extremely bad neighborhood, we hitch hiked with an ambulance, slept in a former church, got troughn out from the hostel, fell in love, got to know everyone at our favorite pub “Temple bar” (from the bartenders to the guy who delivers beer), we managed to miss Bono in U2 even if we were in the same nightclub and I got robbed of all my money and my dads expensive camera equipment……..

In Dublin you’ll find millions of picturesque pubs but also the fancy nightclubs where its close to impossible to get in, but if you are trying don’t forget to put on a fancy little tight dress. Or take the VIP entrance with some bartenders as Marie and I did. In Dublin people of all age party together, guys that is. Young Irish girls are not often seen out, and if they do go to the pubs, they apparently don’t drink the amount of Guinness that Swedish girls can. The pubs have a very friendly atmosphere that makes you feel right at home. If you walk into a pub by yourself, the chances of you sitting alone by a table are not huge. This people love to chat.

The pub is almost a more sacred place than the church for the Irish people, and this is a very religious country. The Pub is the Irish people living room, where they meet their friends and drink their beloved Guinness. This dark, bitter beer with its white fluffy scum is the national drink of Ireland. There is no time during the day, when its not a suitable time to take a Guinness. In fact the beer it self is almost an entire dinner, or a five course meal if you take a few, as most Irish people do.

Dublin is a walker’s city. To walk is the best way to see all the sights and soak in the atmosphere. When you roam around, I have one warning; watch out for the cars. Besides that they are coming in an enormous speed from your left, many drivers steps on the gas pedal when getting closer to a crossing, only to get us walkers to hurry over. Another thing is the phrase “don’t drive drunk”, well honestly it just doesn’t exist.

There are many different things to see in Dublin, but if you ask me, don’t put too much time on running around with your guide book. The best way to get to know Dublin is to take it slow, visit a few pubs, stop and chat with the butcher in a bacon store and listen to some Irish folk music being played on O’Connel street. O’Connel street zigzags through the city center, and this is the safe street to stay on when the daylight says goodnight. So put on your hiking boots, warm up your chatting skills, through away the sightseeing book and head out to find the spirit of Dublin. Having said this, there are a few sights that I don’t think you should miss.

A visit to the famous Trinity College to see the library and the “Book of Kells” is almost a must. Dublin’s Trinity College was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I on the site of an ancient monastery disbanded by her father, Henry VIII. In the summer time you’ll most likely see more tourist than students, but still its defeninently worth a visit.

When Marie and I returned in the summer, we wanted to see more of the country side. We bought a bus pass and traveled from Dublin, Naas, Kilkenny, Waterford, Cork, Killarney, Dingle, Ballybunnion, Limerick, Galway, Clifden and finally back to Dublin again.

To travel on Ireland is not a tuff task. People are really friendly and helpful, even if some of them only speak Gaelic and no English. The lifestyle is lade back and rather slow, especially out in the countryside. “What we don’t do today, we might do tomorrow” is pretty much the motto. The busses comes and leaves when ever the buss driver wants to, and sudden coffee or cigarettes breaks during the trip are rather common too. You should never be in a hurry travelling with bus on this Island.

The small villages on Ireland are truly adorable. The rugged and torn down houses are looking almost like doll houses. They are usually lying along the main street, flowers are bursting with hundreds of colors hanging down from the tiny windows, and the old fashion signs are telling you if it's a pub, bakery or a small shop.

The houses are often damp and a tad cold, which is not the best thing when you have Asthma. I don’t think I ever have taken so much Asthma medicine as I did during my weeks on Ireland. However the warm atmosphere, the friendly people and the extremely hot and strong tea, makes up for the cold and damp feeling inside the houses. Finding a place to stay is never a problem. There are millions of Bed and Breakfast scattered all over the country. Marie and I mostly stayed in hostels though, and there are usually at least one in every town.

Ireland has a tangible history, with most traces from the Celtic era. It stretches back into dim, to the legends and myths which gives the Irish people their character. Those stories and legends are also the reason to Irelands rich and deep heritage in literary.

Poets write of so many things. They write of love and passion, hope and despair, of the beauty and the things and places they love. Writers open their hearts, and in turn peoples eyes. Cause those who writes are open to emotions that most people are either not aware or unable to express. To me Irish poetry has a special place in my heart. I love to read James Mangan, Yeats or my favorite Brian Merriman.

The west cost is absolutely the most beautiful part of Ireland. It's a wild and barren region with stunning patchwork of bogs, lonely valleys, mountains and lakes. Also a few small towns but sometimes only a odd remote cottage or castle hideaway for company. Flora includes a bizarre mix of Mediterranean, Arctic and Alpine plants that gives the landscape a constant change when you travel in it. The different colors of the flora and the green fields usually sparkles against the blue and dim or dark clouds.

Old ways and customs still thrive in the west of Ireland. Its an area where people still speak Gaelic in parts, where donkeys are used for transportation and where you can see hills dotted with whitewashed stone cottages.

My favorite place on Ireland has to be the Ring of Kerry and the cute town Killarney. Here Marie and I stayed for a few days and hiked, took a boat trip out on a lake, and bicycled up into the mountains. After a beautiful ride up it's a great feeling to stand at “Ladies View” and gaze at the land, the view, the sky horizon and the gorgeous set of mountains looming their heads up and over each other.

In northern County Clare, the Burren region is an extraordinary place. Miles of polished limestone karst stretch in every direction, and settlements along the coast are few. Underground caverns, cracks, springs and chasms are the major features of the Burren, which is ringed by caves.

If you continue further up, North west of the university town Galway, you’ll find an amazing cost line with white cliffs falling right down into the stormy ocean. Irelands coastline is stunning in whichever direction you go, Cliffs of Mohare is just one of many places. This place is truly a perfect place if you want to have a lunch with a stunning view. To sit and glance at the cloudless bay – the blue of the waves and listing to the wind pulling and dragging the water up against the cliffs far down there. It's a cost with a haunting beauty.

Ireland truly is a green island,
it is special
and once visited never, ever, never forgotten……



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© Malin Andersson 2001