We set out from Cusco for the train to Lake Titicaca. We had heard that the train was very local and a bit of a culture shock! But things change and time moves on. A new road had been built and now the locals prefer to reach their destination more quickly by bus. The trail is a tourist venture, and a ritzy one at that, with plush lounge chairs around  tables set with fanned serviettes in wine glasses, and wood-panelled walls - all for $US20. (Dec. 2001) For another $20, one could purchase a 3-course meal, complete with a pisco sour cocktail. The train took us through farmlands with adobe mud buildings, wetlands with abundant birdlife, higher into the altiplano and distant snow capped mountains, with the highest point at La Reyna (4320 metres and our only stop), and on to Puno with its extensive and very grotty auto spare parts market on the outskirts. 

For the tourist (or even the traveller), Puno is little more than the stopping point for the reed islands. These are fascinating, though well truly tourist-oriented. While on the lake, we visited several islands, taking a ride on a reed boat. While in the area, we visited the Pre-Inca funerary ruins at Sillustani out of Puno, but by this stage, we were becoming a little jaded with ruins. Lake Titicaca is very interesting for the reed islands and its huge size at such an altitude ... BUT ... we were very glad to be isolated from downtown Puno, cocooned in our modern lakeside hotel to celebrate New Year in the western way, happily incorporating local music and folk dances.

Soon, we were on our way to Bolivia along the shores of Lake Titicaca. There was a hick-up at the border station. The stamp broke as my passport was being stamped. It took 45 minutes and several burly immigration staff to repair it.  Outside, other members of our party thought I had been detained for some reason, but at least I was dry indoors, while a line had gathered outside in the drizzling rain waiting for their passport stamps.

We had to cross Lake Titicaca at its narrowest point and this was another experience. We boarded a motorised boat to ferry us across the lake . We were able to watch our bus being maneuvered onto a sloping barge, which was poled out into the lake, turned around and then a small outboard motor was started as the boat made its precarious way to the other side. On both sides of the lake, a major party was in progress - and had been for some time. We were now a couple of days into the new year, and most of the town had been partying for several days. Crates of beer were spread around the main square, provided by a local patron - and his prestige was on the line to provide the town with a slap-up party. We couldn't get out of the place fast enough!

Copacabana was the next stop - a special place of worship to the Virgin of Copacobana  for Bolivians. Once again, New Year was a special time. There were markets set up outside the church where worshippers could buy a miniature replica of what they were praying for - a car, a diploma, a shop, etc. They could have this blessed in the hope that their prayers would be answered by the Virgin of Copacobana in the coming year. Also outside the church were decorated cars, where the owners were giving thanks that their prayers had been answered. It is a pretty town set on the shores of Lake Titicaca.

We arrived at La Paz late in the afternoon. The first view of the city is from the escarpment above. The city is set in a natural depression and the saying goes that the richer you are, the lower you live. The poorest live in home-made mud-brick houses  perched on the steep hillsides. Mudslides are a danger. It is a fascinating city. The main street downtown has a central boulevard with beautifully tended gardens set with fountains and statues. There is a feeling of civic pride. When we arrived, the main square was bristling with military might and lots of men in suits. A cabinet meeting was about to begin and the media were in attendance. Meantime, in the park, local women were employed to shoo away the pigeons from the statues, while others sold corn to feed the pigeons! At least their jobs should be secure! Our walk took in several city museums as we wandered through narrow streets. Handicrafts were very reasonably priced in the markets. The witches' market had the famed llama foetuses as well as effigies of Pachamama and other lucky charms.

Food was good throughout our entire stay in Peru and Bolivia (no tummy troubles). We sampled the wines and beers of the local regions. In La Paz, there was a wonderful display of folk dancing and song. The costumes were fantastic, with wonderful masks and head-dresses and an outfit of antique jaguar skin, just like those we had seen in the museum.

We finished our short Bolivian visit with a trip to the Valley of the Moon, a stark formation  caused by erosion, which could be compared to the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon on a smaller scale.