ANGKOR WHAT?
Jump to: SE Asia News, ... And Finally
Date: 18th June
Managing to surgically remove our butts from the buttock-grooves we'd created on the sitting mats at our hostel in Bangkok, we escaped that great dirty bustling city by train, at some silly time of the morning, and 6 hours later arrived at the border of Thailand and Cambodia. Not a bad journey really, it went through the lush greenness of the rice-bowl of Thailand, heat-hazy visions of water-buffalo frolicking in mudholes drifting lazily in the heat to us, the squat figures of Thai farmers, with their upside-down wok hats watching us chug by, and all for just over $1 (about 75p).
Gonzo needed to pray to the Great Spherical Deity by watching the England game, so we found a wee hostel, settled in, had some lovely coconut curry, had a wander round the small town of Aranyaprathet for a bit, got stared at by the locals (not many farang come here - they generally take the more expensive min-bus from Bangkok straight thro), made the young school-girls giggle, and then watched the game. Football, what's that all about, eh? Sanitised war if you ask me. Now, if you gave random members of the crowd pistols with blank and real bullets in, that would put some real spice into the game.
Uh, anyway ... Next day, we took a pick-up to the border, negotiated border control and immediately, on the Cambodian side, spotted people wandering around with arms and legs missing: a very real warning about the presence of landmines in the country; then we connected with our bus on the other side for the "3hour journey on much improved road". We were a wee bit sceptical about this statement, as the guide book says its 8-12hr, and some other travellers had said it was "the worst journey I've ever taken. I flew back to avoid the return trip".
PFF! Wimps! ... It eventually took 5hrs (why the guys on the minibus lied is beyond me - if it takes 5hrs, JUST SAY! Then we won't ask how much further it is every 20 minutes after 2.5hrs), and was quite bumpy and dusty, but if we were to compare with, say, the 17hr jeep journey in Bolivia, then this was a walk in the park. Or a bus journey on a bumpy, dusty road.
The Cambodian guys in the mini-bus, whose hostel we eventually stayed in, decided that I looked very feminine (what?, what? .. if you've got something to say, then out with it!), and by the end of the journey, I appeared to have been married to one of them, and was in line for nuptials later that night. What's going on?
Siem Reap means "Siam Defeated". What a friendly name for a town just 150km from the border of Thailand :-)
And the next day ... the next day ... ahhh ... the next day we pumped up our breasts, wore a tight t-shirt, pouted our lips, put on our hot-pants, slung two revolvers from our womanly hips, and went off tomb raiding in search of Angkor Wat, lost temple-city of the ancient Khmer civilisation ...
And oh my god, you want me to hang onto the back of a 200cc motorbike whilst you drive me through the busy traffic, with no helmet on my head, so that we can get to the temple complexes? You want ME, confirmed wuss, to risk death and/or terrible injury, by trusting myself to someone half my size, piloting a Honda Super Charger 2 Wheelend Death Machine through a veritable asteroid belt of cars and other bikes?
I mean, where's my Landrover? Lara Croft had a Landrover. What about a helicopter? Surely you can manage that? No? No? ... ah, fk it ... go on then.
Well, composing myself, we arrived at the first temple, Banteay Srei, the Temple of the Women, and mm-hmm, girlfriend, its sassy with them topless dancers! I gotta get me on Jerry Springer or Ricki Lake to tell y'all about the carvings o'them Khmer ladeez with their dirty pillows out, wiggling their tushes like there wuz no tomorrow. Damn, they hot! They got them plump little ti ..
Astro's girlfriend bursts in: Graeme, have you been looking at naked ladies dancing?
So, these temples - fabulous carvings, darlings! All inspired by the Hindu temples in far off India, you know. Really, you have to visit Cambodia - "Cambi" we call it! Such a sweet country. Anyway, yes, the temples (-pass me the wine? Thanx-), simply divine. Covered, I mean crawwwwwling with carvings, showing scenes from those amazing Eastern Religion thingies, so quaint, and there were bats too! I know! Like in Scooby Doo! I tell you, guys, you can take me to any wine bar in Soho, and it won't match the time I spent at the temples in Cambi. Did I tell you about the trees just draaaaping themselves over the old temples, - completely natural Feng-Shui (-yes, I said Fang Shway darling-) orientation too! There's something mystical about those asian religions and the land!
Uh. Sorry, came over all dinner-party middle class w*nker there. Sorry. Where were we?
Ah yes - exploring the temples ...
Well, putting on all these different personalities to tell you about the temples is actually part of a plan, because it lets me tell you about the huge bas-relief stories that decorate the entire outer wall of the Angkor Wat temple: each of the sides has a long carved story showing the different Hindu gods, in their many guises, and the different aspects of their personalities, battling against demons, or helping the Khmer fight wars. For example, you might see Siva riding a rhinoceros into battle against some ugly little demons. It takes about 20-30 minutes to walk all the way around the Wat if you don't stop and examine the huge carvings too closely - that's a lot of story.
It also gives me a chance to tell you about Bayon, for me the better of the grand palaces. This has 5 towers coming out of the base building (each infested with bats!), and when you climb up to the top level, you are always looked down upon by at least 4 faces - each tower is covered in the smiling faces of Khmer Rajas / people / gods, and there are about 54 in total. Consider that the temples are constructed from blocks of sanstone, each block about 50cmx50x50, and each having a portion of a face on it ... that's a complicated job there!
This place is really amazing - on a the World Famous Temple-o-meter scale, it ranks up there with Tikal in Guatemala. Although we only spent one day there, you could easily spend a week (and in fact you can buy a week-pass for the site). There's so much about the place left to tell - the surrounding and invasive jungle, the snakes and spiders, the elephant terrace, the cheeky kids selling postcards, the wooden houses-on-stilts that people still live in in the same manner as when the temple was built ... I could go on. But I won't.
[fzzz]
Thankyou Fa Chao. Suor s'dei, and welcome to Siem Reap, western Cambudge. I'm in a bar called Martinis, with some young Cambodjen men, and a farang called Mr Gordon. Behind me you can see the dance floor, where later on 10s of young men will be gyrating to an unheard beat whilst the 4/4 techno beats pound away in a fairly obvious and regular rhythm. We're just waiting for the arrival of the first Taxi Girls - as soon as they get here, we're promised the place will be, in the words of farang, "jumping". At the moment, its rather dead, although we're quite amused by the continuous hovering presence of the Beer Girls, whose mandate is to make sure that no-one ever has a glass less than three-quarters full. The manager here, a member of the local mafia, tells me that the best way of ensuring beer glasses remain full is to fill them with huge chunks of ice, to keep the beer cool and watery.
Whilst we wait for the Taxi Girls to arrive, let's talk to some of the young men at the table. To my left is Jee. Good evening Jee. What are you hoping to get out of tonight?
Jee: Well I'm hoping to get away with not paying for any beers, by duping the farang we're out with into paying for all of our beers. The way I'm going to do this is to get my two mates to disappear halfway through the night, then I'll carrying on drinking, and when it comes time to pay, I'll tell the farang that I've got no money.
A very good plan Jee. Do you have any other hopes for the night?
Jee:Well, I really want boom-boom tonight, so I think I'll ask the farang for 10 dollars on top of the beer money.
Thank you Jee. Turning to my right now, I have a visitor from Scotland, in England; Mr Gordon, you're new here, what are your thoughts?
Mr Gordon: This is the most bizarre night club I've ever been to! There are disco balls hanging from the ceiling, plastic patio chairs arranged around tables, and women wearing different beer costumes. I think that if I want, say, a Stella Artois, I have to ask the Stella Beer Girl for it.
You don't have beer girls at home Mr. Gordon, in Scotland, England?
Mr. Gordon: No, we go to the bar and get them ourselves. You know what is interesting is the music - I've noticed that it starts slow, with traditional music, then after 10 minutes goes onto upbeat traditional music, then turns into pounding techno, and then all the music goes off for 10 minutes. Is it like this all night?
Well, Mr. Gordon, let's see ...
[slow fade to black, caption in white: TWO HOURS LATER]
[shouting a bit over loud repetitive beats] Well! As you can see, the place is really moving now! Behind me, where you saw an empty dance floor before, you can now see its full of young men and women. I understand that this is a usual sight for you citizens out there in the liberalised countries of the free world, but what's different about this is that all the women are single, and all of them are working tonight. The men you can see might be single or married; whichever, they're all here for one thing - Boom-Boom.
Here comes Mr. Gordon. Let's ask him what he thinks of the disco-party now. Mr. Gordon, the place is jumping, there are girls everywhere, the music is thumping - are you enjoying yourself?
Mr. Gordon: Err, I think so. This is a really weird place, strange atmosphere. You can tell that all the guys are here to pay for boom-boom, but all the girls keep looking at me, because I'm a tall, white farang. I went up to dance earlier, and women kept rubbing themselves against me, and then loads of men started hanging round hoping to get the girls when I moved away. There's a sort of predatory, but also pathetic charge to the air.
Do you disapprove, Mr. Gordon? This is very different to Scotland, England isn't it?
Mr. Gordon: Hmm. I don't think its my place to say. I mean, the country's just come out of 30 years of war, and the girls are earning money for their poor, rural families, who may have several members unable to work due to landmine injuries. And also, if these girls keep exploiting these men, there's going to be a huge shift in economic power from men to women ... hmm. Strange country. I talked to those guys, Jee and the others, and they say that when a man gets married, he has to pay upto US$2000 to the girl's family, and she has to be a virgin. I'm wondering who the Taxi Girls marry, if all wives have to be virgins when they marry? I think there's going to be a huge women's movement in this country in the next couple of decades. By the way, Scotland isn't i ..
Well, thankyou for that very perceptive insight, Mr. Gordon, although quite frankly, as a South East Asian man I have to say I have no idea what you're talking about, as women are either saintly mothers or sluts, and should be treated accordingly.
[fzzz]
Thank you Sum Yung Guy. For those viewers interested, we understand that Mr. Gordon will be taking a boat along the Tonle Sap, one of the largest floodplains in the world, which is currently reaching its maximum size as the wet season brings water down the Mekong, where it is backing up into the Sap, enabling fast boat transport through the amazing mirror-like lake-river. If you rich westerners are bringing your helicopters out here, you may see Mr. Gordon sitting on the top of a fast longboat for 5 hours whilst he traverses the waterway to Phnom Penh.
Which brings us to the Mekong Development News.
[cut to pre-recorded tape]
Mr Do-Lah, just four years ago, you say you were starving, and that you couldn't afford to feed your family. You have told me of how you would beg for scraps and old rice from other families in the town. And yet now, you look healthy, and you can afford to keep your children in school past the age of 10, when most families would get them working. How have you achieved this amazing turn-around?
Mr. Maw Do-Lah: Well, it was easy really. I noticed that white people were starting to travel by boat up the Mekong, and that none of them could speak or read Khmer. So I got to thinking - if I buy a boat, and take passengers up the river, I can charge the farang about 10 to 30 times more, because they're all rich, and they can all afford to pay, say twenty five dollars, whereas a local would pay just two dollars.
Is that where you got the idea, when you were in S-21?
Mr. Do-Lah: No, when I was there I was kept in a wooden cell, about 1.5 meters by 0.75 meters. I thought I was lucky too - the others were chained to iron bars along the length of a wall, and had to ask the guards if they could change positions in their sleep, otherwise they'd be tortured. I was lucky to make it out of the Killing Fields alive. I went back there recently, and looked at all the skulls displayed in the Buddhist stupa; you can still see the pain and confusion of the people etched into the bone structure of the skulls.
Sobering words indeed. But back to your business. Don't you think that it will discourage people from travelling if you charge them too much money?
Mr Do-Lah: Not really; the farang love it. They think the Mekong is a beautiful waterway, with amazing jungle scenery on everyside, and deep chocolate brown waters that look so still, and yet hide fast currents and whirlpools. Farang are like that. Personally, I see it as a way of making money. I've got my wife catching fresh fish from it everyday. See all those deoderant canisters floating in the water? They're holding up fishing nets. Sometimes we're lucky enough to pull up a dolphin, but there aren't so many of them anymore. There's good eating on a river dolphin.
It sounds like a very promising business venture, honourable Sir. What do you think of the plans by the Chinese and Lao to dam the Mekong at several points to generate electricity? Won't that affect your business?
Mr. Do-Lah: What?
Well, that was an interview I conducted earlier today. Onto other news now.
And finally today, Scientists have announced that ancient stone tablets have been discovered, which appear to contain predictions made by ancient Khmer prophets about the future of the indigenous Khmer tribers in Kampuchea.
The tablets, unearthed recently in the north-east of Kampuchea, are written in what is called "extended Haiku form", comprising poems where each line contains a fixed number of syllables. Scientists say that they are especially remarkable, as they appear to predict the invention of the motor car, and the formation of world governments. In a bizarre twist, copyright lawyers are also investigating the tablets, as they appear to be very similar to a series of books released in the 1980s in Britain, which chronicled the adolescent traumas of a young man with no poetic talent whatsoever.
In a world exclusive, we have been allowed to present to you part of the translated texts from the tablets:
Six hours, pot-holed muddy road
Crater lake ripples
Missus Kim, Russian Jeep, Development
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Text by:Astro Raider
Who cares if someone kicked a ball into a net? I mean, if they did so whilst avoiding gunfire and maybe against a time limit - let's say, the ball explodes after x minutes if its not put into a goal mouth - then, then, I might watch with some passion and interest. But really, people ... what are you thinking?
On the way, we stopped in a wee village, where people sat around watching the farang zoom by, naked kids played in the dirt, and we could, if we so chose, buy a Dog Curry. Gordy was tempted, whilst I looked around to see how many dogs there were ... hmm, not many over 1 year old I'd say.
We also bonded with the sisters (that's "sisters" in comfortable shoes) in our bus over a bottle of Mulberry Wine, and arrived in the town of Siem Reap just in time for - the football. ARGH! I FOOKIN 'ATE FOOTBALL!
Calm down, calm down .... breathe in, hold it ... ... now slowly ooouuuutttt ....
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAA ... HAHAHAHAHAAAHHHHAAAAAAHHAAAA! WWWWHHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE ... This is great fun!
Astro: ummmm ... ahem ... no, its ... its ... Its ART baby! That's it, its art. And its culture! And history ... that's right - looking at sandstone carvings of topless dancing-chicks is educational, my sweet, and gives me a ... um ... a sense of perspective, that''s it, a sense of perspective with the way woman are now perceived and treated in religion and society ... er, doesn't it?
Astro'girlfriend scowls, but lets him off the hook.
We had to watch MORE football after that. Fortunately the local electricity supply in Siem Reap has a sense of humour - the Spain vs Ireland game went into Extra Time, the first half was played, no-one had got a golden goal, then 5 minutes of the 2nd half of extra time were played, Gordy was on the edge of his seat, the sisters were whooping and cheering ... and then all the lights went out, all the TVs went off, as, most amusingly, the electricity for the entire town disappeared. The cries of despair that rang through the night were like music to my ears. Most humourous :-)
Date: 04th July - please be upstanding for the USA's Independence Day
Text by:Fa Chao
Greetings honourable citizens of the free states of the world. Welcome to today's broadcast of South East Asian News, with me, your honourable presenter, Fa Chao.
Today we investigate the issue of Prostitution in Cambodia; Regional Development issues around the Mekong,ahaah! .. and finally ... some literary nonsense about the plight of Hill Tribes.
So, sit down, buckle up and SHUT UP cos I'M TALKING, alright? Right.
First in todays news, we bring you a report on prostitution in Cambodia. Over to our man on the ground, our very own Taxi Boy, hello, can you hear me, Sum Yung Guy?
Just before we came to air, I was offered this very pretty girl over here for three U.S. dollars for an hour, or thirty five for the whole night; I was assured that for thirty five, and I quote, "she do everything".
The South East Asian News budget doesn't stretch to that level of investigative journalism, so I spent some time with the young lady on the dance floor, learning to dance Kampuchean style. For the uninitiated, this involves walking slowly in a circle, and twisting your hands in slow complex shapes. Its a very relaxing method of dancing, and even the men here seem to be able to do it, although as you can see, they haven't quite got the hang of dancing techno-style.
Back to the studio
Your roving reporter recently travelled up the Mekong River, through the town of Kratie, to the northernmost Kambodian town of Stung Treng, or Stoke-on-Treng as farang from Britain, England are calling it.
Following the war that lasted 30 years, many citizens of Cambodia have been worried that they may not be able to earn enough money to live on, and give their children a better life.
However, in our journeys up the 12th largest river in the world, we have found some enterprising business men who are bringing much needed foreign currency into the country, through an ingenious method. Earlier today, I talked with Maw Do-Lah:
And I've got the market cornered as well, because the roads are just pot-holed dirt tracks plagued with bandits, and even I won't take them, and I survived the S-21 detention centre in Phnom Penh, where I was tortured with electrical whips, had my fingernails pulled out, and was then forced to work the land to grow rice.
The other good thing is that I can throw all my rubbish in the river, and its gone straight away. No more problem! Its great.
by Graeme Maughan, Aged 29 3/4
Risking pick-up death
Satan's daughter stares, eyes full
Water spirit, clear dreaming
Secret village path
Workers gift dragons to Hill Tribe human zoo villagers
Crouching tigers can escape concrete jails
Where we're going
Who we are
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