Welcome to the Sinclair Figure Grading System where Mint means Mint! After dealing with ebay and other sources of toy buying and trading, Grant, Chris and I have noticed (as we are sure you have) that the term "Mint" is used to describe anything that someone wants to sell regardless of it's condition. Grant has taken it upon himself to put in writing a guide that will help us to use these grading terms in a uniform manner. So without further rambling, here is The Sinclair Figure Grading System:
MINT (M)
According to Webster, Mint means, “as issued, before use.” To apply this term to figures, I would suggest
two criteria for this category:
a) as issued from the factory--pristine with all parts and accessories
b) before use--a figure that has not been “played with” although displayed is acceptable.
No rubs. No tears. No discoloring. No fading. No fraying. No scuffs. No grooves. No furballing. Zip. Zero. Nada.
With respect to the greying of heads or “zombification,” figures displaying this malady could never be described as MINT regardless of being carded or in the box. The greying took place after the figure left the factory, and therefore it is no longer in the condition it was when issued.
Any figure that is blessed with hair (female figures, Thor, Conan, One Million B.C., etc.) MUST include the transparent headband used to keep the hair in place. That’s how it came from the factory and absence of which renders the term “MINT” inappropriate.
MINT should be reserved for the creme de le creme of figures and not used lightly.
I propose the “WOW!” test. If you can say “WOW!” to the condition of a figure, it may very well be deserving of the term MINT.
NEAR MINT(NM)
This term should be used to describe a figure that is close to MINT, but displays a SLIGHT flaw. No signs of play should be evident.
A slight pain rub on head, hat or helmet, slight fading or discoloring of the costume or a greying head would qualify a figure for this category. No grooves in head, hat, helmet or hands. No tears. No holes. No rips. No stains. No dirt. No fraying. No furballs. All Accessories must be present. Emblem must be present. This
description would include the following two categories:
a) NMCO--NEAR MINT COMPLETE W/ ORIGINAL ACCESSORIES
I propose the “OOH” test. If you can say “OOH” to the condition of a figure, it may very well be deserving of the term NEAR MINT.
FINE (F)
This term should be used to describe a figure that has slight, though obvious, sings of enjoyment or play, but is in excellent condition.
Slight paint rubs. Slight loosening of stitching along seams. Slight furballing, stains or dirt. Slight fraying. Slight grooves in helmet, head, hands or accessory. No rips. No tears. No runs. No holes. All accessories should be present. The emblem may be worn or missing entirely. A figure that has a hidden defect under the costume like a broken joint which has been repaired or replaced but is undetectable by visual inspection would be included in this category regardless of how beautiful the rest of the figures is. This defect MUST of course be disclosed. This description would include the following two categories:
a) FCO--FINE COMPLETE w/ ORIGINAL ACCESSORIES
I propose the “EXCELLENT” test. If you can describe the condition of a figure as “EXCELLENT,” then it is most likely deserving of the term FINE.
VERY GOOD (VG)
This term should be used to describe a well played with or enjoyed figure.
Significant paint rubs. Significant runs in costume. Significant tears including loose stitching. Significant stains and/or dirt. Significant furballing. Significant scuffs. Significant grooves in head, helmet, hands or accessories. Costume must be intact--including cape. Figure must have at least one accessory other than cape--the term accessory includes boots and gloves. This description would include the following two categories:
a) VGO--VERY GOOD W/ ORIGINAL ACCESSORY/ACCESSORIES
I propose the “OK” test. If you can say “OK” to describe the condition of a figure, it may very well be deserving of the description VERY GOOD.
GOOD (G)
This term should be used to describe a figure that has survived significant enjoyment or hard play.
No Accessories. Costume only--no cape. Significant paint rubs. Significant scuff or grooves on head, helmet, hat hands. (must have all digits, though) . Significant furballing. Significant tears and runs. Significant stains and/or dirt. Significant fraying.
I propose the “WELL....” test. If you’re reaction to the condition of a figure is prefaced by “WELL...,” it is most likely deserving of the description GOOD.
POOR (P)
This term should be used to describe a figure that has survived “Apocalyptic Play” and enjoyment of “Biblical” Proportions.
No costume-- “NEKKED! :-) The presence of accessories is irrelevant. Figure is in need of emergency TLC which mercifully includes using the parts for transplant. Missing digits, broken legs, broken feet, broken joints, etc. etc. These horrors must be identified in description.
I propose the “UGH!” test. If your reaction to the condition of a figure is “UGH!” then it probably belongs in the POOR category.
If this Standard (or one like it) is agreed upon and put into use, I would like to see its application in an ethical manner. It’s easy to liberally proclaim a beloved figure from our collection as “MINT” while conservatively deriding the one just received from an Ebay Auction. :-) I would like to see all practitioners employing this Standard to take the pledge--pledge to apply it in a fair and strict manner at all times. When there is a question or ambiguity in determining which category should apply, the lesser grade should always be selected.
Best, Grant Sinclair
copyright 2000 Grant Robert Sinclair
b) NMCR--NEAR MINT COMPLETE W/ REPRODUCTION ACCESSORIES
(of course, all reproductions must be identified.)
b) FCR--FINE COMPLETE w/ REPRODUCTION ACCESSORIES
(of course, all reproductions must be identified.)
b) VGR--VERY GOOD W/ ORIGINAL ACCESSORY/ACCESSORIES
(of course, all reproductions must be identified.)
