THE Chevelle
ONLINE INTERCHANGE MANUAL FAQs
There are some frequently asked questions about the interchangability
of certain parts onto the GM A-body, and some of the FAQs have been abstracted
from Chevelle Tech or the Chevelle Archives/Tech References.
BRAKES
Two-piece rotors
Q: I have a two-piece rotor that came off a 1969
El Camino, which was wrecked. I had the rotor disassembled, and replaced
one of the studs. What is the torque of the bolts that secure the rotor
to the hub?
A: I would torque the bolts to 45 ft.lbs.,
then 55 ft.lbs, in a star pattern, with a drop of blue Loctite on the threads.
(Submitted by Paul Lathrop.)
For the rotor that I had salvaged, the replacement stud that was fitted
in was a Dorman #610-166, which had an oversized knurl on the splined area,
because the hole was too large to retain the usual oversize or OEM stud.
Q: What years were the rotors available?
A: Starting from 1967, when disc brakes
were optional, the two-piece rotors were standard equipment with the 4-piston
calipers. 1969 and later disc brakes used a single piston caliper, and
up to 1970, the two-piece rotor was installed alongside the one-piece rotors
that were manufactured from 1969 onwards.
Spindles (OEM disc brake cars, not the tall spindle conversion)
Q: Can I use my drum spindles with a disc brake setup,
even if the rotors fitted onto the spindle?
A: The spindles for disc brakes have
a machined section on the upper bolt area, and about 1/2" is removed if
comparing the drum and disc spindle. Companies like Master Power or Stainless
Steel Brakes can remachine a drum brake spindle for use with the disc brake
caliper brackets and dust shields.
Physically, the drum and disc spindles do not interchange. A drum spindle
can be remachined to work with discs, but not the other way around.
Tall Spindles
Q: I have access to a 1981 Camaro. Will the spindles,
master cylinder, (a-arms, in necessary) and power booster/master cylinder
interchange? (Submitted by Andy X)
A: The spindles will fit onto your
Chevelle, and you will need a set of ball joints for a 1970-81 Camaro.
TRW 10277 (lower) and 10268 (upper) will fit onto the existing A-arms.
The lower ball joints will have to be turned .080" to fit in to the lower
control arms on all Chevelles, and the tie rods are available from your
local parts house. Moog ES2033RL/TRW ES2033R (1964-70 models), and Moog
ES427R (1971/72 models) will fit and function with the Camaro spindles.
The power booster will have to
come out of a 1964-72 A-body, since firewall angles differ. The caliper
for 1981 and later GM cars are of a preload design, and the master cylinder
(which has a plastic reservoir) and prop valve should be swapped also.
For earlier cars, a disc brake master cylinder and prop valve (either from
a Camaro or 1971/72 Chevelle) will fit.
The existing upper A-frames will
require an excessive shim pack to gain the zero degrees for alignment,
and to avoid this problem, offset A-frame shafts are available from Moog/TRW,
and with a set of springs with a 1" drop will reduce the shim pack that
is common with a stock ride height.
If the upper ball joint angles
are a concern, then consider upgrading the upper arms with aftermarket
versions available from Global West of Hotchkis Performance. With these
aftermarket A-frames, this will reduce the number of shims used, and negative
camber is negated.
BODY
1968/69 Hoods and Hinges
Q: Can I use a 1968 hood hinge on a 1969 Chevelle?
A: No, since the 1969 hinge has an
indented area around the rear bolt hole that bolts to the hood. This also
holds true for the hoods (even the SS hood) for 1968/69 Chevelles/El Caminos
and Beaumonts.
1965 SS Hood
Q: I have tracked down a hood from a 1965 Chevelle
4-door sedan, which is straight and not rusted. Will it match my SS, or
are there are any differences? (Submitted by David Armstrong)
A: According to the Chevrolet Parts
Interchange Manual, the flat hood for 1965 Chevelles interchange with all
models and bodystyles. Be careful about the extra holes, which can include
additional trim holes, that could include the lower hood chrome molding,
and the hood spear. This might require welding the holes shut, or drilling
newer trim holes.
A/C
Q: I would like to remove my A/C system from my 1971
Chevelle. Does anyone know how to do this? (Submitted by Andy X)
A: You will need to remove the suitcase
assembly from the firewall, and the inner ducts and heater core casing
will have to come out also.
The best way is to retain your
existing A/C system, and replace the parts with new components. The new
components are calibrated to run on both the R12 and HFC-134 refrigerants.
Consider upgrading the hoses to the modern barrier design, since this keeps
in the cooling efficiency of the refrigerant circulating through the A/C
system.
If you want a new system, consider
upgrading to a Vintage Air setup. This will eliminate the suitcase in the
engine compartment, and will allow you to have a big block without the
suitcase that has been a curse for those that want to have A/C and a big
bolck together.
FRAME TECH
This entry surfaced recently in my guestbook:
Name: Howard Harte
Website: Howard's
Chevelle Home Page
Referred by: Just Surfed On In
From: Phoenix, AZ
Time: 1999-05-28 17:13:19
Comments: Excellent page! I have a '66 Malibu Conv, and recently
bought a '66 El Camino for parts mostly. I wanted to make a comment regarding
your chassis
section; specifically the frame for 64-67: You are correct that
64-67 frames are similar in design; however, I have noticed the following
differences: 64-67 hardtop
has an open frame, while the 64-67 El Camino and Convertible
have fully boxed frames. The only section that is not boxed is the rear
section behind the rear axle.
64-67 El Camino and Convertible frames are interchangeable, with
slight modification. I did this on my '66 conv because the original frame
was so rotted and
convertible frames are hard to come by. You need to remove about
two inches in the unboxed section of the El Camino frame to obtain the
correct frame length.
This is easily accomplished by cutting the tail end of the El
Camino frame off, removing a two inch section (measure to get the exact
dimensions!) and then welding
either the back end of the El camino frame on, or the back end
of the original frame. I opted to re-use the rear end of my original frame
because the gas tank
mounting holes are different, and because there was an ugly trailer
hitch welded onto the El Camino. I'm not sure about this, but I am wondering
if the steel used in
the El Camino is a thicker gauge than the Chevelle conv frame.
I couldn't really tell on mine because it was so rusted, but I seem to
remember looking at a '65
pontiac service manual, and noticing that the frame gauges differ.
I have some more details at my web page: http://www.public.asu.edu/~hharte
This restorer of a 1966 Chevelle ragtop detailed the modification
of the frame, and a frame grafting technique that might be of some use
to restorers. Click on the above link for the detailed pics!
Copyright 1997, 1999, LSCSETX (C/O DON
SERIBUTRA). All rights reserved. Most of the FAQs have been abstracted
from my field experience, Chevelle Tech, The Chevelle Archives, or the
Chevelle Spot Q & A page.