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Introduction
Lawns in the Landscape
A beautiful lawn begins with careful planning. The type of
grass
you plant will depend largely upon your landscape design and how
how you plan to use the lawned area. Formal flower borders
should be set off by a complementary, fine textured turf that is
kept edged and closely manicured. A durable, coarser turf is
more appropriate for an area that gets a lot of traffic or is used
by children for play. An informal setting doesn't require
meticulous upkeep.
Seed vs. Sod |
Warm-Season
Grasses |
Choosing the Right Mix |
Cool-Season Grasses |
Mowing Techniques
You'll need to mow your lawn regularly to keep it looking it's best.
Cutting height depends on the type of grass and the time of year.
Mow often enough so that not more than on-third is cut-off at one
time. In shady spots, cut grass less frequently and at a height of 1/2
inch taller than normal. Keep the blades of your mower sharp to
avoid damaging the grass tips.
Starting a Lawn
The best time to start a new lawn is
in the spring or early fall,
when days are cool and moist and weeds are less of a threat. Seeding
in early fall often provides the best results because it gives the lawn time
to become well established before heavy frosts hit.
The first step in starting a lawn from
scratch is to properly prepare the soil.
To be sure of soil conditions, have your soil tested for fertility and pH.
Adequate levels of phosphorus and potassium are important for vigorous
root growth, so you'll want to add these nutrients if the soil test shows
they're needed. The ideal pH for lawns is between 6.0 and 7.0. If you
need to raise the pH, use dolomitic limestone at the rate of 50 pounds
per 1,000 square feet. If you need to lower it, use powdered sulfur.
Broadcast seeds with a mechanical
spreader at the rate recommended
on the seed package; overseeding will cause the tiny grass plants to choke
each other out. Mix the seeds in the hopper before spreading. Apply 1/2
of the total amount of required seed in one direction and second half at
right angles to the first. Rake the area lightly to barely cover the seeds.
If you have access to a roller, roll the
seedbed to guarantee that all seed
comes in contact with the soil. Water gently but deeply. Continue to water
every day (or whenever the soil looks dry) until 3 week after the seeds
germinate. To prevent seeds from washing away, water slowly to keep
the soil evenly moist.
When the grass is 2 to 2-1/2 inches tall,
mow it to a height of 1-1/2 to 2 inches
mow regularly after that.
If the existing soil is poor, add 4 to 6 inches of topsoil or
sphagnum peat moss. Cultivate with a rotary tiller or spade
to a depth of 4 inches.
After removing any stones, twigs, or other debris, rake
the surface as level as possible. If liming is necessary
incorporate the lime into the soil prior to leveling.
Apply lawn fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds of nitrogen
per 1,000 square feet. For even distribution, use a drop
spreader.
After these tasks are completed, water the area until,
thoroughly watered with a gentle spray from a garden
hose to allow the soil to settle.
Sodding will give you an instant lawn.
Unlike seeds, sod will establish itself
fast and with little competition from weeds. Bluegrass sod is the best because
it quickly weaves a close-knit vigorous, and attractive turf.
When you choose sod, look for well-rooted, moist rolls that are
uniformly green
and not yellowing. After you get the sod home, install it as soon as possible,
especially during very hot weather; don't let more than 2 or 3 days go by, even
in cool weather. Store the sod in a cool, shaded area and moisten it if it starts
to dry out before being laid.
Prepare the soil as you would for seeding. The soil under the
sod should be
moistened before it's laid, and the lawn should be kept watered for several
weeks until the grass is established. Sodding can be done even in the summer,
provided you keep the sod moist. Some grasses, such as zoysia, bermuda, and
St. Augustine, are sold as plugs (small sections of sod) or sprigs (pieces of stem
taken from sod). Plant these in early spring, up to 12 inches apart.
Keep moist before planting.
Care and Maintenance
Your Lawn will
need a little extra help if you want it to wear well
and look its' best. Follow these tips for a healthy turf.
Watering
Water requirements for lawns vary depending on soil, rainfall, and type
of grass. A lawn with sandy soil will need to be watered more often than
one with clay soil. Some cool-climate grasses, like blugrass, will need
more water than drought-tolerant types, such as fescue.
Your lawn will show these signs
when it's dry and needs water:
grass turns from a rich green to a bluish cast
turf loses resiliency so footprints remain longer
growth is slowed, water to a depth
of 6 inches
to encourage deep roots.
Fertilizing
A fertilizer rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will help keep your
lawn looking lush. In the spring, apply a fertilizer with a nutrient ratio of
2-1-1
For most lawns, 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet is plenty.
Feed again in the Fall in the ratio of 1-2-2, to encourage healthy root
growth before the ground freezes. Nitrogen applied before winter
should be the water-in-soluble, slow-release kind.
Thatch Removal
A small amount of thatch-- an accumulation of dead stems and roots--
beneficial to a lawn because it becomes an organic fertilizer as it breaks
down. A heavy buildup of thatch, however, prevents penetration of
moisture and nutrients into the soil and may harbor insects and
disease. To keep thatch at a healthy level, remove excess material
once a year with a power rake.
Don't let leaves or
other objects |
For even
distribution, apply |
If you're cutting an area
out of the |
Repairing bare
spots is like starting a new lawn. Remove dead grass, improve the soil, fertilize, lime if needed, seed or sod, and water regularly. Avoid walking on the new grass until it's established. |
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