Cage Types

Single Cages
&
  Cage Stackers

Cage Runs or Hanging Cages

Hutches

Rabbit Hutch Information:
      Rabbit Hutches can never be too big.  The hutch must be tall enough for the bunnies to sit up on their hind legs. Larger breeds require much larger hutches. Pet rabbits can be quite readily kept in cages in the home, with some freedom to run free in the house (after thoroughly rabbit-proofing, of course). Rabbits take fairly well to litter training so many people will let their bunnies run free in the home for at least part of the day. Even if your rabbit is thoroughly toilet trained and your house thoroughly rabbit proofed, a cage will act as a safe haven or nest, where the rabbit can retreat to rest. There are a lot of cages sold for rabbits that aren't really ideal rabbit homes, though. Some are just too small, and many have wire floors, which may make cleaning easier but doesn't provide much comfort to the bunny. As usual, bigger is better. If your rabbit will spend most of its time in a cage, then get the biggest cage that is practical in the home. As a general rule, the cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit. A guide is 24" by 36" for smaller rabbits (less than 8 lbs.) or 30" by 36" for larger rabbits. A two story condo with a ramp joining the levels seems popular with rabbits too. As a rule, rabbits take fairly well to being litter trained, so a solid floor is fine and not too difficult to clean. Many cages meant for rabbits are still made with wire floors over pull out pans, designed to make cleaning easier.  However, wire floors (even those with very narrow spacing) can be uncomfortable at times. Try covering a corner of the cage with a piece of wood, or grass or sisal mats (grass mats are are nice to have in solid floored cages too, to vary the surface and provide traction). This will provide a comfortable resting place for your rabbit.  The door to the cage should be about large enough to get a litter pan (and rabbit) through easily. A side door is probably best, as a top-opening cage makes getting the rabbit in and out a little harder (and it is best if the rabbit can get in and out on its own). The opening should have smooth edges, or plastic guard strips over the edges of the wires.

 

                   Housing

Some thoughts on Rabbit Housing for the hobbyist.
written  by Ed White 2005

This article is written based upon experience gained in housing rabbits in Southern Ontario Canada. Our winters can at times be quite severe with temperatures dipping well below zero farenheight for short periods. Summers are usually moderate in the 70 -85 degree range. Housing requirements in other regions of Canada and North America will of course vary.

Some questions have been raised as to which is the best construction material to use for rabbit housing, wood, wire or perhaps a combination of both? The choice of housing material for the small back yard hobbyist is somewhat controversial. The major factor of course, is where the cages are to be housed. If they are enclosed in a building, the current norm is the all wire cage. Set ups that are outdoors entirely, need to take weather conditions into account and it may be that the wooden construction is a better choice. Let’s look at some of the pros and cons however before we decide.

 Wire cages, the pros:-

All-wire cages are widely available, they are light, easy to clean and look fairly attractive. With some kind of rack and tray system they can be easily stacked and provide excellent air flow for good ventilation in a fairly limited space. With some skill and patience, wire cages can be home made using tools that are available in most workshops. Some dealers sell pre-cut wire cage kits that can be easily put together using J-clips. Plans for various cages are easily accessed on the internet or in books from the public library. Generally, rabbits adapt to wire cages very well. As indoor housing for just a few rabbits, this is a good system.

Another advantage of the all wire system is that cross contamination from accumulated droppings is reduced.

Wire cages, the cons:-

They are sometimes overpriced if purchased at a retail pet shop. While most of the smaller breeds do well on wire, resting boards and some other additional equipment to protect from drafts or excessive heat is necessary to insure the animals’ comfort. Most large or giant breeds just don’t do well on wire. Checkers, Standard Rex,Flemish,BelgiumHares etc, are best housed in a solid bottom cage. Even some of the miniature breeds are never really happy on wire. With wire cages, unless suitable partitions are provided which add to the cost, active bucks (and sometimes does) manage to decorate their neighbours constantly. Excrement and nest box litter will invariably build up in a back corner in cages stacked or placed against a wall regardless of how diligent the caretaker is. This leads to early rusting and failure of the wire bottom.  First litter does often decide to kindle on the wire bottom instead of in a nest, especially if we forget to mark down the due date and are late with the nest box! Adequate shelter is a must to provide protection from the elements. While all-wire cages provide very good ventilation, they can be drafty too. Feeding any additional roughage such as hay or straw becomes a real problem, wastage and build up of any excess adds to maintenance time.

Wooden cages, the pros:-

Probably less expensive than the all-wire counterpart, they can be easily built to fit available space. Units of two or three make the most efficient use of construction materials. Using weather proof building material, wooden cages can be effectively maintained out of doors without additional shelter if kept in a properly fenced area. They are warm and fairly easy to keep clean. Does that” think outside the box” when they are kindling, usually manage to raise their young in a back corner, without incident.

Wooden cages, the cons:-

Not everyone is good with tools, so the cages may look unattractive and be poorly made. Bedding material is required, therefore straw; hay; shavings, etc. add additional cost. Routine and fairly frequent manual cleaning is required; this can be a real problem in wintertime when every thing freezes solid. Rabbits like to chew, so corners and edges must have some kind of protection to prevent cage damage or even escapees. The wood sometimes becomes saturated with urine from those active bucks that were referred to in the wire cage section.

Combination:-Perhaps there is an opportunity to combine both cage systems, a partial wire bottom on a wooden cage works quite well? This idea cuts down on the manual cleaning somewhat especially if the rabbit cooperates and uses the wire part as we would wish.

Another opportunity for the hobbyist is to use both cage systems. Wooden cages for the adult breeding stock, with the all-wire version used to house the growing young. A single rabbit in a wooden cage can be maintained easily with only perhaps twice monthly clean outs, maybe more often in the really hot weather. Young rabbits, housed together produce quite a lot of waste and will probably do much better with a wire bottom on their home.

I know several successful breeders who use both systems in combination, to their advantage.

Another fairly labour intensive system is one where rabbits are kept on grass in wire bottomed cage runs which are moved daily. They still need some kind of shelter to provide protection from the sun and extreme weather conditions and predators. This system is used successfully in Europe and I know of one individual in Quebec who is raising rabbits organically using this method.

In my experience, rabbits of all breeds do very well out of doors providing they are given adequate protection from drafts and dampness in the winter and exposure to direct sun in the summertime. I’m sure many more rabbits have succumbed to sunstroke than to the cold. A supply of fresh water and enough feed is the key. Respiratory problems that spread quickly in warm, poorly ventilated houses are much less likely to be a problem with outdoor housing. Admittedly though, the caretaker is challenged on a bleak and stormy winter’s day.

Personally, I’ve tried both cage types and all things considered I prefer the old fashioned wooden hutch. Currently I have about half my cages inside a building and the rest outside. There is no measurable difference in the animals that I can see.

With the wooden cage system, more labour is involved with straw, shavings and frequent cleaning but I believe the rabbits seem more content, stay cleaner and in better physical condition.

Interestingly, the life span of both types of cages is about the same.

written by

Ed White

2005




Select a sturdy cage made of heavy gauge wire. The floor should be 1/2" x 1" with the sides and top of 1" x 1" or 1" x 2" wire. Inexpensive cages made from lightweight wire will sag under the weight of even a small rabbit and can cause the development of sore hocks and can leave the bunny sitting in the tray instead of above it.

A large door that opens out from the front of the cage makes taking the bunny out and putting it back in much easier.

A feeder mounted to the door is easier to fill and clean than a bowl inside or a side mounted feeder.

A water bottle mounted on the outside of the cage will allow more floor space for the bunny to move around. Be sure to check the flow of the bottle regularly to be sure it is working properly. If hung crooked, it will not work properly.

 HOW BIG A CAGE DO WE NEED?

The bigger the better but especially for bunnies that will spend a lot of time in the cage allow plenty of room for exercise. Don't buy or build a cage that is too deep from front to back or you may have to crawl into the cage to get the bunny out! Twenty-four inches deep is easy for most children and thirty inches for most adults to reach comfortably and it may be as wide as you can get.

Generally speaking, the minimum cage size should be long enough for the rabbit at adult size to stretch out fully in any direction and high enough (usually 18") for him to comfortably sit on his haunches for face cleaning and general self grooming. Dwarf cages are frequently only 16" high which is sufficient.
 Their cage should be protected from drafts.
OUTDOORS:Rabbits do perfectly well outdoors providing they are protected from rain and direct wind (while still allowing air flow under the cage to avoid ammonia buildup) and most importantly, protected from the direct HEAT OF THE SUN.

More rabbits die from heat stroke than old age!

Offer shaded protection on the west and south sides at all times and a wind break on the north in the winter. The sun on the east side on mornings not exceeding 70 degrees is generally enjoyed by the bunny.

Make sure the roof of the hutch is sloped to allow the hot air to escape. A flat roof can trap deadly heat.

BEFORE YOU SET UP A PERMANENT CAGE OUTSIDE:

Before bringing your bunny home or putting him outside, set up the cage in the most likely spot and then go look at the cage every couple of hours to see if the sun is shining directly into the cage at any part of the day. Remember the sun moves from east to west. (Don't laugh, most people don't think about it or even know whether their yard is on the east or west side of the house!) Just because it's shaded in the morning doesn't mean the bunny will be safe at 3 p.m.

written by Barbi Brown
 3B'S RABBITRY

  Fans,  Misting Systens, Frozen Bottles,
Air Condishners,  Swamp Coolers (Evaporitve Coolers)

                     Watering

                      Bottles  VS  Watering Systems, and Crocks