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International Corner
By
August Stark
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Welcome to a wonderful tour of culture, food, and history. From the banks of the great Danube river (Dan-u-b), the ancient alps, the wonderful cities of Europe, and the people that make them special. The Wachau is one of the most beautiful untouched river basins in all of Europe. Nestling among the wooded hills of the Waldviertel (Wood Quarters) and the Dunkelsteiner Wald (Dunkelsteiner Forest). The valley is located in Lower Austria. Its most popular landmark is the Danube River. Here in the Wachau, where the mild sunny climate is beneficial for growing grapes, to make the famous Wachau Wines families still continue to make wines the old way. The vineyards that dot the countryside have been in the same families for hundreds of years and are handed down from generation to generation. In this region as in all of Austria a way of living is called Gemutlichkeit (Gae-moo-t-lic-kite). It represents a typical Austrian attit
ude towards life. The word implies relaxed attitude, knowledge of enjoyment for all the simple pleasures of life.

The city Durnstein, is one of the most famous and historical cities in the region. Durnstein is the home of one of the most famous Castles in all of Europe. Even though it is a ruin today it did have a very important guest back in December 1192. Richard the lion Hearted was a prisoner in Durnstein Castle.
Location and History
The name Durnstein (in earlier days-called Tirnstein) originates from the rocky area, where the settlement was founded. A rough translation of Durnstein is "those darn stones". Durnstein has kept its historic character and is regarded as the most romantic place in the Wachau. The origins of Durnstein date back as early as 1000 A.D.
During the Middle Ages, Durnstein was an ideal location. The steep rocky riverbanks gave protection against floods, yet left enough space for settlements and fortifications. In the narrow parts of the valley, road and river could be closed off very easily, this deterred numerous invasion attempts. This was of great importance to the local rulers. The Dukes of Babenberg as liege-lords granted Durnstein and other parts of the valley to the Kuenring (coon-ring) dynasty, who were descendants of Bavarian and Saxon nobility.
The Wachau is one of the most beautiful areas in the Danube valley. Here the Mountains rise close to the Danube, forming a narrow valley between the towns of Krems and Melk. The picturesque landscape of the valley with its historic villages, art, culture as well as wine making traditions, attract many visitors from all over the world.
Wine making, which has been carried on for centuries in the Wachau, provides the main livelihood for the local people. In this area many wine makers are still living on family farms that were built centuries ago. The famous Wachau wine with its characteristic taste and aroma is a favorite in all parts of the world. These grapes are cultivated on the steep and sunny slopes. These vineyards were being constructed as far back as the Middle Ages. Terraces were built on every suitable slope. Thus making use of even the smallest possible space and giving the landscape its typical character. Viewing this magnificent picturesque valley, one can only appreciate the hard work that went into maintaining the vineyards, along with the ancient atmosphere that makes this area a fantastic step back into time.

Durnstein still maintains its ancient charms. As you walk through the arched gateway to enter the city and break the barrier over its threshold you are immediately taken back into time. You can just imagine the medieval markets and nobles riding through the small narrow roadway going through the town. Medieval conventual walls, local art objects, narrow streets made of cobblestone give the town character that has not changed for hundreds of years. As you walk down the winding streets you realize no one is in a hurry to get anywhere. As you pass the local citizens each one greets you with a smile and a warm welcome. Durnstein truly is a step back to the calm, relaxation, of daily life where people have not forgotten that a smile and a greeting are part of daily life.
The Danube River
Big rivers have always been the main highways of transport in Europe. The Danube is celebrated as Europe's greatest river. Though not blue as the song indicates, it is still a river of great beauty and importance. As the second largest river in Europe, the Danube is a major source of transportation on the continent. The river connects central and southeastern Europe, as well as, the Balkans and the Black Sea. In fact, eight countries share its water, including Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Romania, and Russia. Many ideas and influences from different cultures have spread up and down this river. The Danube, through its rich history, remains truly captivating.

The Danube is the only major river in Europe to flow from west to east. It rises in the Black Forest and flows eastward for about 2850 kilometers, eventually finding its way to the Black Sea. Before reaching the Black Sea, the Danube flows to Ulm, then into Bavaria, and on through Austria and southeastern Europe.
Many of the resources and goods traveling in and out of these countries are actually transported by the Danube.
The Danube has always been an important route between Western Europe and the Black Sea. This route formed the northern boundary of the Roman Empire in southeastern Europe.
For centuries the Danube has been the main link between Eastern and Western Europe. From the middle ages until the construction of the railway in the 19th century the Danube was the most important transport route. Downstream the boats were drifting with the current. Horses used to pull the boats up stream, walking on specially constructed bridle paths along the riverbank.
In those days navigation on rivers was difficult and hazardous. Sandbanks, rocks and strong current, hindered progress or even caused the destruction of boats and whole convoys. Several chronicles of villages situated within the Wachau valley record boats being capsized and sailors drowned.
This important trading route required many things in order for it to grow and flourish. It needed horses to help with the boats where the river had stronger currents, Inns to house and feed the travelers coming through the area, and craftsmen to continue to build and allow settlements to grow. As a consequence the settlements along the river gained importance and prospered.
King Richard the Lionhearted at Durnstein Castle
The Castle ruins at Durnstein stands majestically against a bold backdrop of greenish mountains and a wondrous blue sky. Just looking at the ruins from a distance one can still feel the atmosphere that made it a great and powerful structure. Climbing the cobblestone stairs toward the ruins one always wonders how hard it was for the people that were commissioned to build this fortress. Having to walk the pathway many times daily. Either making sure that the horse packs that carried the building supplies would make the trek properly. Or having to carry the bulk of the items on their backs. The walk from the town center to the castle ruins takes an average person about 45 minutes, most of the trek is pleasant and stone steps lead their way through wooded rocky landscape. Once the stone steps run out you the path turns to grass and dirt that sometimes becomes very steep. The trek is well worth the effort. Once you have reached your destination the view of the Wachau valley is a wondrous sight. If y

ou are fortunate to be in the ruins at around midday the sounds of the church bells echo through the forest and through the hillside. The heavenly view coupled with the wondrous sounds of the bells gives one an awe inspiring feeling. As you sit back and gaze at the vast valley you can feel the ancient walls giving up their secrets. The most famous person to stay at the Castle was Richard the Lion hearted (King of England). There are numerous stories regarding King Richards capture. The people in Durnstein have passed down the story from generation to generation. They seem to tell it a bit different then the history books and I choose to go with the local flavor of the story.
In 1188 the third Crusade began. Friedrich I. Barbarossa, the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, honored the promise he had made to the Pope and personally marched with the Christian crusaders towards Jerusalem in order to recapture the city from Sultan Saladin. Also taking part were the French King Phillip II., the English King Richard the Lion Hearted, and the Austrian Duke Leopold V. of Babenberg.
In 1190 Friedrich Barbarossa, nearly 70 years old died on his way to Jerusalem. After his death serious conflicts broke out between the other leaders of the crusades. Duke Leopold V. of Babenberg felt cheated out of his share of the riches. He blamed Richard the Lion hearted for his misfortune. Richard hearing the constant complaining of the Duke tore down the Austrian flag which had been put up in the camp. The Duke was insulted and embarrassed. He immediately returned to Austria. In December 1192 on his way from the Crusades Richard the Lion hearted was shipwrecked near the Italian coast. He tried to return to England by land via Germany, at Erdberg that was a little village near Vienna, he was recognized when his servant attempted to pay with a conspicuous Byzantine coin. Duke Leopold found out Richard was in Austria and immediately captured the English monarch.

He was handed over to the Kuenrings who controlled Durnstein at the time. They imprisoned the King in the castle towers. The only luxary Richard was allowed came in the form of travelling troubadours.
According to a romantic legend the troubadour Blondel, King Richards's servant had been looking for his master in several countries. He traveled from castle to castle singing at every one of them a verse of a song only known to his king and himself. Having arrived in Durnstein he sang his song and suddenly he heard the second verse in return. He had found his master at last. Blondel told the English where their King was being held. The English contacted the Austrians and asked for the terms of release of their beloved King.
In March of 1193 the Duke of Babenburg handed his prisoner
over to Emperor Henry VI, Barbarossa's son who demanded a ransom from the English of 150,000 Marks in silver for Richard's release. After the first payment of 50,000 Marks was paid, Richard was released and returned to England. The English had given their words that the rest would be paid upon the return of King Richard to England. Once the King was back in his own country safe and sound, the English never did pay the rest of the ransom.

Durnstein had many influences during the time of the Habsburg rein. The Habsburgs were Europe's greatest dynasty. Between the thirteenth century and twentieth century they provided rulers for empires, kingdoms, duchies, and principalities in what is now modern-day Germany, Austria, Spain, Italy, Belgium, Holland, Czechoslovakia, Yugoslavia, Romania, Poland, and Hungary. One of the most loved dishes in this region of Austria is Goulash.

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