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From the highway, the Park appears to consist of desert interrupted
by a towering wall of high limestone cliffs. But hike through the
twists and turns of McKittrick Canyon, carved into the cliffs over
millions of years, and you encounter a stunning, lush oasis. Spectacular
leaf colors draw many people into the canyon in late October and
early November, but it is quieter during the rest of the year. This
tranquility, coupled with the freshness of new plant-life, makes
spring a particularly attractive time to visit. Having hiked the
canyon in May, we can certainly attest to its beauty at this time
of year.
From the visitor center, keep straight ahead into canyon, ignoring
the short nature trail on left and the Permian Reef Geology Trail
on the right a little later. Desert scrub and cacti dominate initially
as you follow clear McKittrick Creek, the only year-round stream
in the Park. But, as the canyon narrows, the vegetation becomes
ever more lush, enhancing the high cliffs surrounding you. Cross
the shallow creek a number of times over stepping stones as you
head through the canyon.
2.3 miles/3.7 km into the canyon, at the picnic area, a short fork
on the right leads to the Pratt Cabin, built of stone by geologist
William Pratt in 1930. The clear trail continues along the south
fork of the canyon (the north fork branches off just beyond Pratt
Cabin, but there is no trail).
Head through beautiful woods of ponderosa pine, juniper, oak, Texas
madrone and maple for 1.1 mile/1.8 km to a fork. Take the short
trail on the left for around 0.3 mile/0.5 km to the Grotto, where
the limestone formations resemble the stalagmites of a cave.
Back at the fork, the level trail starts its steep climb out of
the canyon to McKittrick Ridge. This is the turning round point
for day-hikers, but you may want to climb up for about 0.5 mile
to a rock with good views.
Smith Spring
Another easy hike, this time starting at Frijole Ranch, gently climbs
400 ft/122 m through desert scrub to Smith Spring. This peaceful
oasis at the foot of the Guadalupe Mountains is resplendent with
maidenhair ferns, pine, madrone, alligator juniper, oak and bigtooth
maple. Although you have only walked just over a mile, you feel
far from civilization: dappled sunlight filters through the green
canopy and the only sounds are water softly running over weathered
rocks and the faint hum of busy insects. Loop back via a second
oasis, Manzanita Spring, for a total distance of 2.3 miles/3.7 km.
Trailhead: Turn off US 62/180 1.5 miles north of Headquarters visitor
center onto the 0.75-mile gravel road to Frijole Ranch.
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