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If you like your old furniture, why not recover it

Recover or Re-upholster?

If a sofa or chair is in good shape on the inside and all it needs is a fresh new fabric on the outside, that's recovering. When a piece needs work on the inside, either partially or totally (new webbing, re-tied springs, new fillings, re-cushioning) that's reupholstering. Both are the province of the upholsterer, marine fabricator or auto trimmer.

The upholsterer works from the frame, up... much the way the furniture maker does. So, if your old piece has a good frame, there's some significant initial saving to be had. Using modern materials with traditional skills can provide you with results that are even better than the original. In the hands of a good professional, you can get a full measure of value for your money, and quality that's hard to match.

Reupholstery or restoration is one of the few professions in the domain of the hand skills that is alive and well in the assembly line age. So, if you have a lumpy old sofa, or a frayed chair that's beginning to shed its stuffing, take another look before dismissing it as a "has been". It could be the beginning of a beautiful new piece. This recycling of quality furniture will bring much pleasure in seeing a fashionable new piece bounce back out of the old one.

If your old sofa (or chair) frame has stood up for ten years or more, it's probably good or it wouldn't have lasted that long. Good frames don't wear out. Over the years a good wood frame has jumped 100% OR MORE IN PRICE.

 

Hardwood, The Key to a Quality Frame

Good frames are made of hardwood - oak, maple, ash, alder or mahogany. These woods are strong and enduring and the upholsterer can tell them by their weight. They're heavy! That's why salespeople will often lift up one end of a sofa 98 when showing it to a customer. They are indicating a quality feature of the furniture, which is the frame's weight. You can do some testing yourself by lifting pieces similar to your own and comparing to see how they feel

 
Hardwood Chair Frame

Good Frame Construction

Good frames are joined with double dowels (wood pins) and wood blocks, or screws. These hold fast and firm for a long time. If and when they loosen, they're easily firmed up or replaced.

Frames made with metal braces, and those where staples are used without dowels, are generally not the best. The wood used in such frames is usually of lesser quality and doesn't wear well. And a reliable upholsterer will usually advise against repairing. If, however, you have such a piece and are fond of it because it has a style your like and couldn't find again, or it fits a particular space, or you simple don't want to part with it, it can be repaired for further use.

Strengthening Frames

Before re-doing a piece, many professionals will move it around to check for "motion" in the joints. If a sofa has weak arms, some will not work on it. Others, who regularly do frame work as part of the total job, will put the arm solidly back where it belongs, replace any support pieces that are loose or missing and put the frame back into mint condition. The hardwood itself is worth it. It's generally a hefty 1¼" to 3½" thick and it's valuable.

Exposed Frames

Many pieces have interesting outside frames, which is their style. These are often delicate and finely made, as on side chairs and occasional chairs, in French antiques or copies. These frames are worth strengthening and a skilful upholsterer will know it right off.

Furniture with exposed frames is usually valuable. And if it's old, even more so. The frame is part of the design of the piece and if you own one like this, you probably know its worth.

These outside frames are usually cherry, walnut, or mahogany, and some are beech or birch. They are found on Victorian styles that have rich, dark woods, on Chippendale and Sheraton pieces where the frames are handsome embellishments to the piece, on Empire styles, French and American antiques, and on good reproductions. The wood usually ripens with age and acquires a beautiful patina, or soft glow. Such frames rarely need big repairs, if any. If one should need refinishing, this is done before the upholstering process begins. A fast, convenient, modern way is to spray stain and polish on the wood in a single process. Or it is stained and then hand-rubbed the old craftsmanship way, which is more expensive.

Re-Styling Frames

Not all upholsterers re-style frames. Those who do can be quite versatile and are accustomed to handling all kinds of specifications. They can change a straight Parsons arm to a rounded or flared arm. Or a square arm to a rolled arm. They can lower the sides or the back of a sofa, and knock off sharp corners for soft curves. Sofa arms can be cut down. And a sofa can be re-made into a love seat. Often, as the shape changes, so will the filling. A tight back can assume the shape of a plump, soft, pillow-back style. A tailored piece can be softened with draping and tucking and button-tufting.

Comfort For An Aching Back

When it comes to the upholstered chair, something that would strike most of us as extraordinary, is all in a day's work for one highly sophisticated upholsterer. He re-styles frames for people with back problems. He will change a curved chair frame to a straight one for comfortable upright support. And then fill and build up the back of the chair at the required level–upper back where the sitter needs it–lower back for the lumbar region if that's where the trouble is. And he'll do the same for the shoulders and neck. Restyling can be very effective and it's not especially complicated, aside from the fact that you can't go out and buy a chair made just for your aching back!

The Custom Frame

Many upholsters custom create the entire piece. They will order a frame in a particular size and style, to fit a room space, large or small, or to match up with a grouping of pieces. And then fashion the furniture to individual specifications, just as they do for decorators and interior designers. It goes without saying that this is expensive, but if it's worth it to you, you can get an approximate price which will be adjusted for materials, labour and the fabric you choose. What you will end up with is a truly one-of-a-kind piece of furniture.

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Webbing

Webbing supports the springs of your sofa, or upholstered armchair. If it's worn out, the upholsterer replaces it, using one of three kinds: Nylon, which is serviceable and least expensive but not the longest wearing. Jute, an imported fiber from India preferred for quality and strength. And polyester, the latest in use and said to be very long lasting.

Webbing comes in strips about 3½ inches wide and it's stretched across the deck (or frame) and woven back and forth like the reed strips in a basket. Webbing is also put on chair seats that have pads and no springs. It is also put on seats and backs of fully upholstered chairs.

 

Exposed Seat Springs

Hand-Tied Springs

The 8-way hand-tied spring is a mark of quality and a byword in industry parlance. But the consumer can be somewhat mystified and is apt to respond with, "It sounds good but what does it mean?" It means you'll never be sorry.

Coil Springs

The 8-way hand-tie uses a coil spring which is the strongest, most resilient, flexible and longest lasting. It practically never gives out, although a coil or two may give up and come loose or break.

 

Coil Spring

Tying Process

To refurbish springs, the upholsterer re-attaches loose springs, replaces any if necessary, and re-ties the entire set, one by one. Each coil is sewn to the webbing (or attached with a metal clip), then tied to the coil next to it. Each row of coils is then tied front to back, side to side, and diagonally two ways, 8 in all. And all are tied on exactly the same level to make a symmetrical, even suspension for the most comfortable seating.

Different Degrees of Suspension

This smooth meadow of springs can be tied at different levels for different degrees of firmness. The more they are pulled down, the firmer the seating. Firm, medium-firm, or hard, the hand-tied coil spring will always have g-i-v-e.

Zig-Zag Springs

Zig-zag springs are also hand-tied. They are an S-shape, simpler in construction, and are used in frames that take stresses differently and for which they are more appropriate. They have come into use more recently than the coil spring, and are differently attached to the frame, with clips.

 

Zig Zag Spring

Fillings

Fillings provide the comfort on seats and backs of upholstered furniture, and also influence the shaping. They vary from down, which gives a rich, plushy softness–to hair blends for the firmest seatings.

Down

Now that full, plump cushions and seatings are in fashion, down is used alone in matching pillows, and in combination with other fibbers for the seating, as with a mix of rubber for smoothness and resilience. Down is the most expensive filling. It is seductively soft and is the traditional luxury filling.

Fluffy Polyester

Made in rolls of varying thicknesses, Polyester can be used alone or as a wrapping for polyfoam. Provides a smooth, rounded and soft cushion and is an excellent contemporary filling. Used with all styles of furniture.

 

Bonded Fiberfill

Polyurethane Foam

Polyurethane foam is a popular and reliable material that does a good job at shaping and stuffing, and comes in different densities for different degrees of firmness: Soft, Medium, Super Resilient (SR), Firm, Extra Firm and High Resiliency (HR) for the most firm. Newer foams belonging the the High Resilience (HR) family offer a soft, initial feel and then firm up as more pressure is put on it... Yielding very comfortable and supportive seating.

Hair Blends

Firmest of all, is hair. This used to be horsehair, the kind that plumped up the old Victorian sofa on which the properties of sitting stiffly on an unyielding surface were the manners of the day. Today, the filling is more flexible and inviting, and it's hogs-hair or cattle hair mixed with other fibbers for a kindlier feel and better resilience. It gives first-class firmness and has a long, sturdy life with plenty of comfort and bounce.

Choosing

Fillings are also chosen by the upholsterer according to the style of the piece. If it's tightly tailored, even though the cushioning is thick, a firmer filling will be used. If the style takes lots of tucking and draping, has soft, loose cushions, and you want both the appearance and the sensation of deep-down softness, a fluffier filling is used. You can talk this over with your upholsterer who will advise you, but the ultimate decision is yours. You're the one who's going to sit on it, and personal preference has the last word. Also, these materials vary in price so it's nice to know what you are getting and what you are paying for.

Padding

Padding is the material that goes on directly under your upholstery fabric. Its function is to fill out and firm up the contours of the sofa or chair (fully upholstered) so that the fabric sits smoothly and fits perfectly all around, without wrinkles or puckers.

Padding also acts as a buffer along the arms and back of a piece where friction and wear show up first, as on corners and edges. Cotton padding is considered the best because it wears long. The cotton is mixed with a bit of felt and fabricated in rolls. These come in different grades and a thickness of about 1¾" is considered a good padding. Polyester fiberfill is also currently being used as a padding and is providing excellent results.

Fabrics: Finishing a Piece With a Flourish

Everyone visualizes the transforming effect of the fabric on a re-created sofa or chair. As one young homemaker put it, the fabric "is part of the fun" of reupholstering. Fabric has character and personality. It speaks for your taste, your style. And in your own home, it can be as personal and individual as your signature.

The Fabric Advantage in Reupholstery

Fabric is also one of the two big costs in Reupholstery (the other is labour). So it's important to get good value as well as good fashion. The bigger the choice, the better the chance of finding a fabric that suits both your decor and your budget. This is where Reupholstery gives you the benefit of rich variety and enormous volume. The selection is practically endless.

A World of Choice

Big reupholstering firms can offer a thousand samples, imported and domestic. Smaller shops carry hundreds. All in different grades of quality. You can wind up with a good decorator fabric, which, when figured into the total cost of a reupholstering job, comes to considerably less than today's price for an expensive piece of upholstered furniture.

Wear Quality

How do you judge for wear? A classic standard applies here, as used by the professionals: "The tighter the weave, the longer the wear." The standard is threads to the inch. One square inch of fabric with 8 or 10 thick threads doesn't have the strength of one square inch densely packed with 30 to 40 thin threads. Specifically: A woven cotton tapestry, where the colours and pattern are tightly woven in with colored threads, wears better than a cotton with the colours printed on. To check a fabric yourself, hold it up to the light. The less light that shows through, the tighter the weave. A good upholsterer will advise you also. He knows fabrics like the back of his hand and can clue you in to textures and constructions.

Fibbers and Blends

Fibbers also make a difference in wear. Natural fibbers, like cotton, take colour differently from man-made fibbers. They can be richer, more subtle. While the man-mades have resilience and strength. That's how the blends came into use. So cotton with polyester, for example, gives you the best attributes of both. Other blends will use nylon, acrylic, rayon. And man-made fibbers alone (far advanced over the earlier versions) make many attractive long wearing pieces.

Texture Types

The appearance of certain textures will vary with use. Fabrics with a nap, like velvets and corduroys, look different in different lights, and show wear where they've been sat upon. Silks are more delicate, but many are fortified with a man-made fibber. And fabrics with highly textured surfaces, like loopy tweeds and homespuns can "pull" after a while. Flat weaves, like the cottons, damasks, jacquards, and close-grained tightly ribbed cottons stand up well.

Soil Resistance & Cleanability

For cleanability, each fibber has its compensating feature. Natural fibbers absorb soil faster than man-made fibbers, but clean better. While man-made fibbers are more soil resistant, but don't always clean as well. Many fabrics are treated with soil-resistant finishes, but the finish doesn't last forever, so be prepared after a time, to have the upholstery cleaned.

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Before you can upholster a piece of furniture, you need a solid understanding of how it is put together: What are the hidden structural componets? What are the design features that give the piece distinction? The structure and design together dictate the shape of the furniture and the nature of the upholstery. Once you understand them, you've the guidelines for the job ahead.
THE FRAME
No matter what the fine points of their design are, most chairs and sofas have an inner frame built of similar structural elements. Bear in mind that rails and liners are always horizontal members; post and slats are always vertical members.
LAYERS
On top of the frame are mutiple layers of materials that round out and supplement the supporting understructure. These layers are finished with a cover of decorative fabric. Depending upon the condition of your furniture, you may reuse or replace some or all of these layered materials as you reupholster.
This drawing of a platform rocker shows a typical assembly of materials on a less complicated piece of furniture. In this case the chair has zigzag springs, but it could also have the coiled variety.
This drawing of a side chair shows a typical assembly of material on a drop-in seat, sometimes called a pad seat or slip-seat, constructed without springs. Sometimes you'll find rubberized webbing instead of the jute type.

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