If you like your old
furniture, why not recover it
Recover or Re-upholster?
If a sofa or chair is in good shape on the inside and all it needs is a
fresh new fabric on the outside, that's recovering. When a piece
needs work on the inside, either partially or totally (new webbing,
re-tied springs, new fillings, re-cushioning) that's reupholstering.
Both are the province of the upholsterer, marine fabricator or auto
trimmer.
The upholsterer works from the frame, up... much the way the furniture
maker does. So, if your old piece has a good frame, there's some
significant initial saving to be had. Using modern materials with
traditional skills can provide you with results that are even better than
the original. In the hands of a good professional, you can get a full
measure of value for your money, and quality that's hard to match.
Reupholstery or restoration is one of the few professions in the domain
of the hand skills that is alive and well in the assembly line age. So, if
you have a lumpy old sofa, or a frayed chair that's beginning to shed its
stuffing, take another look before dismissing it as a "has
been". It could be the beginning of a beautiful new piece. This
recycling of quality furniture will bring much pleasure in seeing a
fashionable new piece bounce back out of the old one.
If your old sofa (or chair) frame has stood up for ten years or more,
it's probably good or it wouldn't have lasted that long. Good frames don't
wear out. Over the years a good wood frame has jumped 100% OR MORE IN
PRICE.
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Hardwood, The Key to a Quality Frame
Good frames are made of hardwood - oak, maple, ash, alder or mahogany.
These woods are strong and enduring and the upholsterer can tell them by
their weight. They're heavy! That's why salespeople will often lift up one
end of a sofa 98 when showing it to a customer. They are indicating a
quality feature of the furniture, which is the frame's weight. You can do
some testing yourself by lifting pieces similar to your own and comparing
to see how they feel
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Good Frame Construction
Good frames are joined with double dowels (wood pins) and wood blocks,
or screws. These hold fast and firm for a long time. If and when they
loosen, they're easily firmed up or replaced.
Frames made with metal braces, and those where staples are used without
dowels, are generally not the best. The wood used in such frames is
usually of lesser quality and doesn't wear well. And a reliable
upholsterer will usually advise against repairing. If, however, you have
such a piece and are fond of it because it has a style your like and
couldn't find again, or it fits a particular space, or you simple don't
want to part with it, it can be repaired for further use.
Strengthening Frames
Before re-doing a piece, many professionals will move it around to
check for "motion" in the joints. If a sofa has weak arms, some
will not work on it. Others, who regularly do frame work as part of the
total job, will put the arm solidly back where it belongs, replace any
support pieces that are loose or missing and put the frame back into mint
condition. The hardwood itself is worth it. It's generally a hefty 1¼"
to 3½" thick and it's valuable.
Exposed Frames
Many pieces have interesting outside frames, which is their style.
These are often delicate and finely made, as on side chairs and occasional
chairs, in French antiques or copies. These frames are worth strengthening
and a skilful upholsterer will know it right off.
Furniture with exposed frames is usually valuable. And if it's old,
even more so. The frame is part of the design of the piece and if you own
one like this, you probably know its worth.
These outside frames are usually cherry, walnut, or mahogany, and some
are beech or birch. They are found on Victorian styles that have rich,
dark woods, on Chippendale and Sheraton pieces where the frames are
handsome embellishments to the piece, on Empire styles, French and
American antiques, and on good reproductions. The wood usually ripens with
age and acquires a beautiful patina, or soft glow. Such frames rarely need
big repairs, if any. If one should need refinishing, this is done before
the upholstering process begins. A fast, convenient, modern way is to
spray stain and polish on the wood in a single process. Or it is stained
and then hand-rubbed the old craftsmanship way, which is more expensive.
Re-Styling Frames
Not all upholsterers re-style frames. Those who do can be quite
versatile and are accustomed to handling all kinds of specifications. They
can change a straight Parsons arm to a rounded or flared arm. Or a square
arm to a rolled arm. They can lower the sides or the back of a sofa, and
knock off sharp corners for soft curves. Sofa arms can be cut down. And a
sofa can be re-made into a love seat. Often, as the shape changes, so will
the filling. A tight back can assume the shape of a plump, soft,
pillow-back style. A tailored piece can be softened with draping and
tucking and button-tufting.
Comfort For An Aching Back
When it comes to the upholstered chair, something that would strike
most of us as extraordinary, is all in a day's work for one highly
sophisticated upholsterer. He re-styles frames for people with back
problems. He will change a curved chair frame to a straight one for
comfortable upright support. And then fill and build up the back of the
chair at the required level–upper back where the sitter needs it–lower
back for the lumbar region if that's where the trouble is. And he'll do
the same for the shoulders and neck. Restyling can be very effective and
it's not especially complicated, aside from the fact that you can't go out
and buy a chair made just for your aching back!
The Custom Frame
Many upholsters custom create the entire piece. They will order a frame
in a particular size and style, to fit a room space, large or small, or to
match up with a grouping of pieces. And then fashion the furniture to
individual specifications, just as they do for decorators and interior
designers. It goes without saying that this is expensive, but if it's
worth it to you, you can get an approximate price which will be adjusted
for materials, labour and the fabric you choose. What you will end up with
is a truly one-of-a-kind piece of furniture.
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Webbing
Webbing supports the springs of your sofa, or upholstered armchair. If
it's worn out, the upholsterer replaces it, using one of three kinds:
Nylon, which is serviceable and least expensive but not the longest
wearing. Jute, an imported fiber from India preferred for quality and
strength. And polyester, the latest in use and said to be very long
lasting.
Webbing comes in strips about 3½ inches wide and it's stretched across
the deck (or frame) and woven back and forth like the reed strips in a
basket. Webbing is also put on chair seats that have pads and no springs.
It is also put on seats and backs of fully upholstered chairs.
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Hand-Tied Springs
The 8-way hand-tied spring is a mark of quality and a byword in industry
parlance. But the consumer can be somewhat mystified and is apt to respond
with, "It sounds good but what does it mean?" It means you'll
never be sorry.
Coil Springs
The 8-way hand-tie uses a coil spring which is the strongest, most
resilient, flexible and longest lasting. It practically never gives out,
although a coil or two may give up and come loose or break.
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Tying Process
To refurbish springs, the upholsterer re-attaches loose springs, replaces
any if necessary, and re-ties the entire set, one by one. Each coil is sewn
to the webbing (or attached with a metal clip), then tied to the coil next
to it. Each row of coils is then tied front to back, side to side, and
diagonally two ways, 8 in all. And all are tied on exactly the same level to
make a symmetrical, even suspension for the most comfortable seating.
Different Degrees of Suspension
This smooth meadow of springs can be tied at different levels for
different degrees of firmness. The more they are pulled down, the firmer the
seating. Firm, medium-firm, or hard, the hand-tied coil spring will always
have g-i-v-e.
Zig-Zag Springs
Zig-zag springs are also hand-tied. They are an S-shape, simpler in
construction, and are used in frames that take stresses differently
and for which they are more appropriate. They have come into use more
recently than the coil spring, and are differently attached to the
frame, with clips.
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Fillings
Fillings provide the comfort on seats and backs of upholstered
furniture, and also influence the shaping. They vary from down, which
gives a rich, plushy softness–to hair blends for the firmest seatings.
Down
Now that full, plump cushions and seatings are in fashion, down is used
alone in matching pillows, and in combination with other fibbers for the
seating, as with a mix of rubber for smoothness and resilience. Down is
the most expensive filling. It is seductively soft and is the traditional
luxury filling.
Fluffy Polyester
Made in rolls of varying thicknesses, Polyester can be used alone
or as a wrapping for polyfoam. Provides a smooth, rounded and soft
cushion and is an excellent contemporary filling. Used with all
styles of furniture.
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Polyurethane Foam
Polyurethane foam is a popular and reliable material that does a good
job at shaping and stuffing, and comes in different densities for
different degrees of firmness: Soft, Medium, Super Resilient (SR), Firm,
Extra Firm and High Resiliency (HR) for the most firm. Newer foams
belonging the the High Resilience (HR) family offer a soft, initial feel
and then firm up as more pressure is put on it... Yielding very
comfortable and supportive seating.
Hair Blends
Firmest of all, is hair. This used to be horsehair, the kind that
plumped up the old Victorian sofa on which the properties of sitting
stiffly on an unyielding surface were the manners of the day. Today, the
filling is more flexible and inviting, and it's hogs-hair or cattle hair
mixed with other fibbers for a kindlier feel and better resilience. It
gives first-class firmness and has a long, sturdy life with plenty of
comfort and bounce.
Choosing
Fillings are also chosen by the upholsterer according to the style of
the piece. If it's tightly tailored, even though the cushioning is
thick, a firmer filling will be used. If the style takes lots of tucking
and draping, has soft, loose cushions, and you want both the appearance
and the sensation of deep-down softness, a fluffier filling is used. You
can talk this over with your upholsterer who will advise you, but the
ultimate decision is yours. You're the one who's going to sit on it, and
personal preference has the last word. Also, these materials vary in
price so it's nice to know what you are getting and what you are paying
for.
Padding
Padding is the material that goes on directly under your upholstery
fabric. Its function is to fill out and firm up the contours of the sofa
or chair (fully upholstered) so that the fabric sits smoothly and fits
perfectly all around, without wrinkles or puckers.
Padding also acts as a buffer along the arms and back of a piece
where friction and wear show up first, as on corners and edges. Cotton
padding is considered the best because it wears long. The cotton is
mixed with a bit of felt and fabricated in rolls. These come in
different grades and a thickness of about 1¾" is considered a good
padding. Polyester fiberfill is also currently being used as a padding
and is providing excellent results.
Fabrics: Finishing a Piece With a Flourish
Everyone visualizes the transforming effect of the fabric on a
re-created sofa or chair. As one young homemaker put it, the fabric
"is part of the fun" of reupholstering. Fabric has character
and personality. It speaks for your taste, your style. And in your own
home, it can be as personal and individual as your signature.
The Fabric Advantage in Reupholstery
Fabric is also one of the two big costs in Reupholstery (the other is
labour). So it's important to get good value as well as good fashion.
The bigger the choice, the better the chance of finding a fabric that
suits both your decor and your budget. This is where Reupholstery
gives you the benefit of rich variety and enormous volume. The selection
is practically endless.
A World of Choice
Big reupholstering firms can offer a thousand samples, imported and
domestic. Smaller shops carry hundreds. All in different grades of
quality. You can wind up with a good decorator fabric, which, when
figured into the total cost of a reupholstering job, comes to
considerably less than today's price for an expensive piece of
upholstered furniture.
Wear Quality
How do you judge for wear? A classic standard applies here, as used
by the professionals: "The tighter the weave, the longer the
wear." The standard is threads to the inch. One square inch of
fabric with 8 or 10 thick threads doesn't have the strength of
one square inch densely packed with 30 to 40 thin threads.
Specifically: A woven cotton tapestry, where the colours and pattern are
tightly woven in with colored threads, wears better than a cotton with
the colours printed on. To check a fabric yourself, hold it up to the
light. The less light that shows through, the tighter the weave. A good
upholsterer will advise you also. He knows fabrics like the back of his
hand and can clue you in to textures and constructions.
Fibbers and Blends
Fibbers also make a difference in wear. Natural fibbers, like cotton,
take colour differently from man-made fibbers. They can be richer, more
subtle. While the man-mades have resilience and strength. That's how the
blends came into use. So cotton with polyester, for example, gives you
the best attributes of both. Other blends will use nylon, acrylic,
rayon. And man-made fibbers alone (far advanced over the earlier
versions) make many attractive long wearing pieces.
Texture Types
The appearance of certain textures will vary with use. Fabrics with a
nap, like velvets and corduroys, look different in different lights, and
show wear where they've been sat upon. Silks are more delicate, but many
are fortified with a man-made fibber. And fabrics with highly textured
surfaces, like loopy tweeds and homespuns can "pull" after a
while. Flat weaves, like the cottons, damasks, jacquards, and
close-grained tightly ribbed cottons stand up well.
Soil Resistance & Cleanability
For cleanability, each fibber has its compensating feature. Natural fibbers
absorb soil faster than man-made fibbers, but clean better. While
man-made fibbers are more soil resistant, but don't always clean as
well. Many fabrics are treated with soil-resistant finishes, but the
finish doesn't last forever, so be prepared after a time, to have the
upholstery cleaned.
Top of Page
Before you can upholster a piece of furniture, you need a solid
understanding of how it is put together: What are the hidden structural
componets? What are the design features that give the piece distinction?
The structure and design together dictate the shape of the furniture and
the nature of the upholstery. Once you understand them, you've the
guidelines for the job ahead. |
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THE FRAME
No matter what the fine points of their design are, most chairs and
sofas have an inner frame built of similar structural elements. Bear in
mind that rails and liners are always horizontal members; post and slats
are always vertical members. |
LAYERS
On top of the frame are mutiple layers of materials that round out
and supplement the supporting understructure. These layers are finished
with a cover of decorative fabric. Depending upon the condition of your
furniture, you may reuse or replace some or all of these layered
materials as you reupholster. |
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This drawing of a platform rocker shows a typical assembly of
materials on a less complicated piece of furniture. In this case the
chair has zigzag springs, but it could also have the coiled variety. |
This drawing of a side chair shows a typical assembly of material
on a drop-in seat, sometimes called a pad seat or slip-seat, constructed
without springs. Sometimes you'll find rubberized webbing instead of the
jute type. |
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