Bounty From The Bush - Edible Wild Plants
Thousands of years ago, before the first people set foot on the shores of the Turks & Caicos Islands, gentle waves lapped upon the shorelines. Aided by wind, tiny grains of sand collected just above the reach of the high tides. Along the slowly forming dunes, opportunistic plants -- grasses, herbs and small shrubs - began to grow. It was to these shores that the first Homo sapiens arrived in dugout canoes searching for food.
The Islands were a different place in 600 A.D. There was no IGA to nip down to in a pinch for a gallon of milk or a loaf of bread. There weren't even any papaya, soursop, sapodilla, sugar apple, tamarind or other tropical fruit trees that we now think of as native. In fact, there were only the wild shorelines themselves and the adjacent coral reefs and bays that had any promise for sustenance. And while today, this might seem like a recipe for starvation, to the Lucayan voyagers, it looked like a feast.
The sea was bountiful and provided the basis for a largely seafood diet. Conch, lobster, turtle and game fish flourished in these waters much as they do today. The Lucayans supplemented their diet of seafood with fruit, grain and leaves from the bush. They didn't have to travel far. Most of the Lucayan archaeological sites found in these islands are in close proximity to the sea. In these areas, and from the very dunes that first greeted them, the voyagers found a plentiful supply of fresh fodder.
Ironically, the first plant pioneers provided an important staple for the first human pioneers to reach these shores. Waving in the gentle sea breezes and inhabiting the sand dunes just above the reach of the high tides, are dune grasses known as sea oats (Uniola paniculata). A good source of starch and protein, the seed heads of this species can be cooked and eaten as a porridge-like cereal that is quite yummy. This grain was an important source of carbohydrate in an otherwise largely protein diet.
Today, however, this practice is not recommended unless one is in dire straits, as the sea oats and other dune grasses are essential in preventing erosion along beaches and should not be damaged if at all avoidable.
Another flavorful sand dune inhabitant is the sky rocket (Cakile lanceolata). This relative of mustard is found growing in coastal areas throughout the Islands. The young shoots and tips of this species have a delicious mustard flavor. They can be eaten raw or added to stews and soups for a tangy bit of flavor.
In addition to the wild grain and vegetable, the shores provided an almost endless supply of wild fruit. Then as today, one of the more common edible species in coastal areas was the Sea Grape (Coccoloba uvifera). This common coastal species is found throughout the New World in tropical regions and is easily recognized by its attractive, large, almost perfectly round leaves. The fruit forms in long drooping chains much like grapes, which explains its common name. When ripe, the deep-purple fruit has a sweet/tart flavor. It is highly edible and when plump and juicy can even be thirst quenching.
This versatile species has been used extensively in the Islands for bush medicine. The astringent properties of the bark, leaves, root and fruit make teas prepared from these items extremely effective in controlling diarrhea. A wine prepared by placing the fruit in a bottle, covering it with water, corking the bottle and then burying the concoction for a month or so is said to be good for the blood, not to mention the mood. When caught out in the blazing sun, the large leaves can even be fashioned into a protective head gear to help prevent sun stroke.
Other tasty island fruits include such delicacies as the Milk Berry (Bumelia americana), Darling Plum (Reynosia septentrionalis) and fruit from the numerous cactus species that inhabit the Islands such as Prickly Pear (Opuntia stricta), Turks Head (Melocactus intortous) and Wooly Nipple (Mamalaria nivosa).
Cactus fruit is sweet and tangy and is surprisingly succulent excepting the thorns. The prickly pear has an added dietary bonus. The joints of this plant can be de-thorned and eaten raw or chopped into cubes that can be sauteed and added to stews, soups and fried rice. This wild food was once a staple of the island diet and is now making a comeback in many trendy Tex- Mex restaurants.
On the flip side of the coin are a few species that are definitely edible, but their flavor is probably an acquired taste. The seven- year apple (Casasia clusiifolia) is an attractive coastal species that has large shiny green leaves and creamy white flowers that smell wonderful. The fruit is produced throughout the year and resembles a golden apple, but this is where the similarities to that fruit end. Once peeled, the inside of the seven-year apple can be eaten. This pink, pulpy mulch is sour and chalky and leaves a bitter aftertaste. It is no wonder that it is called a seven- year apple, as it would seem that this edible fruit takes that long to digest.
Seashores were not the only areas that provided food for the Lucayans. Mangrove swamps and salt marshes are common throughout the Islands and are highly productive marine nurseries where a number of game fishes can be found, including snapper and bonefish. It is likely that the Lucayan people fished these areas frequently, taking advantage of a plethora of edible food plants, which are also found there. Many of these are even quite sumptuous.
The most common are the glasswort and saltwort plants (Salicornia virginica and Batis maritima). The leaves of these species can be eaten raw or boiled to reduce the salty flavor. Combined with salad and other vegetables, they add an exotic taste that is surprisingly flavorsome.
In 1492, Christopher Columbus discovered the New World and in doing so, put an end to the Lucayan way of life permanently. It wasn't until the American Revolution that settlers once again made their way to the Caicos Islands. Those loyal to the King of England were granted large tracts of unspoiled land upon which they hoped to make their living.
With new tools and a large labor force of slaves, the Loyalists were able to move inland away from the shorelines and into the wild tropical dry forests, thus making available to themselves an even larger variety of edible plants.
They didn't need to rely solely on what they could forage from the bush. For the most part, they were able to eke out a meager living from the land growing comestibles such as corn, okra, yams and other staples that are resistant to drought and harsh conditions. They were even able to grow the large variety of fruit trees that still flourish today in the Turks & Caicos' many settlements.
Even so, the land yielded little and out of necessity, the Loyalist settlers and their slaves supplemented their diet with a variety of wild plants from the forests. They were able to utilize a number of species that were not only edible but highly palatable.
In the outback of the bush, the often annoying vine, Smilax havanensis, is common. This species is in the Sarsaparilla family and its tuberous roots can be eaten cooked for a starchy feast that tastes a bit like root beer. This common vine grows throughout the Islands and is easily recognized by the menacing spines that grow along the stems and resemble cats' claws. Ankles, if unprotected, will usually find this plant first, as it frequently ensnares them when one is traipsing through the bush. Consequently, it is quite satisfying to dig them up and eat their tuberous roots.
Deep in the bush are other edible wonders. On North Caicos is found the geological wonder known as Cottage Pond. Gracing the edges is an unusual species called the Giant Fern (Acrostichum aureum). The young shoots of this plant can be cooked or eaten raw and have a flavor resembling asparagus.
Native palms in the Islands (Coccothrinax argentata and Sabal palmetto) are not included in the typical Caribbean fantasy, which includes towering royal and coconut palms gracing the landscape. In their hearts, however, they do harbor a titillating tidbit that is now recognized as a great culinary delight. The central bundle of leaves on these palms can be removed, and at the tip is a small cabbage or "heart of palm" that has a nutty delicious flavor that was enjoyed then as much as it is today.
Early life in these Islands was difficult at best. In retrospect, it is amazing that populations of people managed to survive in such an unforgiving landscape. Through ingenuity and hard work, the early pioneers managed to not only survive but thrive here thanks in part to the diverse sampling of wild plants that are edible. In the modern era we have the luxury to be able to purchase our food rather than forage for it whenever hunger pangs strike, but it is also nice to know that in a pinch, the fruits of the earth are there. For more information go here:
BOUNTY FROM THE BUSH: Story & Photos by Kathleen McNary Wood
Music Playing is 'Tears On A Rose' by Elan Michaels
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