| Rose Propagation | ||||
| Links |
|
Rooting roses was what really got me hooked on rose growing. There is just something magical about taking that little slip of a rose and creating a new plant. I started out by using the baggy method. Recently, I've read on the Garden Web about setting up a small misting system. It sounded so fast and easy. I'm experimenting with that now, so I will keep you posted on the progress. | ||
| ||||
Misting System
I have begun experimenting with a very simplistic misting system which I read about on Garden Web. I purchased an irrigation kit from Lowe's that was designed to water containers. The kit included drip heads, 1/4 tubing, and all the connections and flow control needed to connect it to a regular garden hose. I also purchased a pack of misting heads compatible with the kit. I connected the tubing to the garden hose, secured it to a short bamboo stake (later "upgraded" to a 3.5' length of rebar), and inserted the misting head at the end of the tubing. One head was enough to mist three flats of cuttings.
The first flats I used were actually clear plastic covers from a seed germinating kit which I punched holes in for drainage. Later, I switched to flats that were used to hold cell-packs of annuals. These were much deeper, allowing for more area along the stem for root developement, and were much stiffer, sturdier, and better draining.
My first rooting medium was 50/50 peat moss and sand. This worked great when I used a timer set to turn on four times a day for about 2 hours each time and had the cuttings in shade part of the day. Later in the season, I switch to the Melnor 3060 timer that misted from 7AM to 6PM, every ten minutes for two minutes each time. I moved the cuttings into a sunnier spot, but the added moisture created problems with rot (we've had a lot of rain too!!) So, I switched to an all sand mixture. This is working okay, but I think I'll try 1/3 each of sand, peat, and perlite to get a lighter mixture. The sand is very heavy and dense and I'm afraid the roots will find it hard to grow through. Also, some roots are breaking off when I pull the cuttings out.
Each cutting is prepared by removing lower leaf-sets so that 3 sets remain at the top. In using a mister in sun, I've found that having leaves is very important when it comes to how quickly a cutting roots. I've also found that roots develope the fastest from a bud eye that is below soil level. If there is no bud that will touch the rooting medium, I use by fingernail to make one scrape along the length of the cutting below where the soil level will be. Here is where roots will develope. Dipping the cutting in rooting horomone (I use DipNGro) also affects how quickly the cutting roots.
Under the best circumstances, cuttings root in 2.5-4 weeks, depending on the variety. I have been very pleased with the results so far. I pull up the cuttings every 3 days or so and check for roots. If the cutting has roots, I pot it up, leave it under the mister a few extra days, then move it to another sunny spot. When I have a chance, I water the rooted cuttings with a GreenLight product that is supposed to stimulate root growth.
|
||||
|
The Baggie Method
Cutting: The cutting is best with a leaf node at the bottom 1/4" and 3-4 leaf nodes above that. Remove the bottom 1-2 leaf sets (any that touch the soil) and leave at least two leaf sets. Make a scrape along the stem below where the soil level will be. The scrape should be about 1/2" long and should expose the lighter color of the stem underneath. Cuttings are best taken from a stem that has a flower just fading, before a hip starts to form. I have had the best luck in the fall. Dip the cutting in rooting horomone. I've had the best results with Dip n'Gro.
Soil: I've had the best results with Grow Mix Professional Potting Soil. Take about two handfulls and put them in a gallon sized ziplock baggy that you have labeled with the rose name. Add water and kneaded the soil into a ball. The soil should be just wet enough to hold together but not so wet that a light squeeze will make the soil drip water.
Make pencil sized hole(s) in the soil and stick in your cutting(s). Firm the soil around the cutting. I limit the number of cuttings per bag to three or four. Spray the cutting with a solution of 16 oz water to 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda, 1/4 teaspoon of Miracle Gro for Roses, and a couple of drops of dish detergent. Seal the bag half way, blow some air in to puff it up well, and seal completely.
The bags should be left in a bright spot with no direct sunlight. They should root in four or more weeks. The nice thing about the bags is that you can lift them and check for root growth. Once they have rooted, open the baggy slightly, opening it more every few days. This helps the rose harden off to a less humid environment. Finally, repot each rooted cutting and grow until they are big enough for the garden. Once potted up, they can be moved to full sun.
|
|
|||
|
Easy Roses People often ask which roses are the easiest and which the most difficult to root. In my experience, Safrano and The Fairy have been the easiest and fastest rooting roses I have tried. Teas, Polyanthas, Chinas, and Minis, in general, are pretty easy to root. Gallicas and Bourbons are somewhere in the middle. I think the Bourbons can be more troublesome because they are so prone to drop their leaves from blackspot in the very humid conditions required for propagation. So far, I've had very little luck with Albas. | ||||
