Hot Edit

In the hot edit the program is edited in real time, right as it comes off the "air".

It's sitting there in front of the set and hitting the pause buttons when the commercials start.

Then it involves restarting the recording at the end of the commercials in time to catch the next show segment.

Even with the best timing it doesn't produce ideal results.

You can refine this by watching shows that are repeated twice during the evening.

The first showing you get the precise position of the commercials and length of the breaks.

During the second showing you use the data to cut the commercials.

I don't recommend this method. Of course its a good test your nerve and timing.

Old School Edit

First, record the show to be edited commercials and all.

Then view the raw recording, making careful note of where the commercials start and stop.

Then play back the recording into your capture device, pausing the burner during commercials.

This was the method I used for about 10 years with VCRs. It can produce good results.

But its a little lossy in terms of image quality.

Software Edit

During 2008 I graduated to Software Editing. I use Video Re Do.

The disk carrying the raw recording goes into my computer's DVD drive.

I run up Video Redo and select the file to be edited.

Inside the software its a matter of designating certain frames to be cut.

It produces precise edits.

Once cut the file can be saved as an MPEG.

Your saved Mpegs can them be authored onto a custom dvd.

Its.Absolutely.F*cking.Fabulous.

If you've got a reasonably up to date computer this is the way to go.

Copying Homespun Disks

You need a modern computer with a dvd burn drive and a burning software.

Examples are Nero, Roxio, or Deep Burner.

If you have one drive, you'll insert and copy the disk to a file, then swap in a blank.

If you have two drives, you'll put the source in one and the blank in the other.

Copying Protected Disks

A protected commercial disk is a special problem.

Of course I'm assuming a fair use backup here!

Start by installing Decrypter and DVD shrink on your system.

Another useful item is DVD Smith. It can do some disks that Decrypter can't.

Insert the disk to be copied. Then run up Decrypter.

Decrypter or DVD Smith will strip the copy protection and store the clean file in a directory on your hard drive.

Insert a blank disk. Then run up DVD Shrink.

Commercial disks often contain more than 4.7GB.

They have to be compressed sufficiently to fit within the 4.7 G limit of your drive.

DVD Shrink will burn the disk too.

The final product of this process can be copied like a homespun disk.

Capture Device

At the heart of any home video establishment is your capture device.

I use a stand alone DVD recorder, like a VCR with a DVD burn drive in place of the tape.

You can use a capture card in your computer as well.

I actually have two stand alones. They are both Magnavox units from Wal Mart.

2009 Acquisition cost of similar equipment should be less than $150.00 each.

They're made by Funai and sold by Wal Mart. If it dies early you can get an exchange.

There is almost no traditional tech support.

Players

If you have a VHS archive, you'll need a good VCR to play tapes into the capture device.

I have two, a Sanyo 690 4 head and a Toshiba W704 6 head.

The Sanyo is in near new condition. The Toshiba is in good condition.

They should last long enough to transfer what is left to be moved to disk.

If you have commercial tapes, you may need a video stabilizer to compensate for Macrovision.

I don't have many tapes like that, so I don't run one. If I find a bargain, I'll buy one.

Have a look at EBay before buying one of the shabby VCRs currently found in the stores.

The new units aren't very durable under heavy use.

If you aren't copying and editing DVDs on a computer, you may wish to add a DVD Player.

An inexpensive player will allow the play of DVDs into the capture device.

All but the cheapest commercial disks are copy protected.

Software

Once you have captured video, there's no better way to process it than with a modern computer and software.

You'll need a modern OS and a dvd burning drive. Most newer computers have these.

To copy unprotected DVDs you'll need a good burn program like Nero or Deep Burner.

To Edit I use Video ReDo. It's available for about $80.00.

My primary editing involves the removal of commercials and extraneous programming from television shows.

The edited video can be burned to a fresh disk. I think of it as a sanitary time shift.

To copy commercial disks you need two softwares.

The first is Decrypter to break the disk's copy protection.

The second is DVD Shrink to compress the Decrypted record to home burnable size.

Media

You get what you pay for. As it was with tape so it is with disks.

My preferred brand has been Maxell. Out of hundreds burned I have only a few coasters.

Cheaper brands will eventually produce more coasters. Sometimes they don't last.

Until recently sales held Maxell DVD+R costs to $0.30 each.

They and the sales have disappeared from my local store. So I've gone to TDK.

TDK disks have good reputations. And they are currently available in the desired price range.

So far, so good. I've gone through most of a 100 disk brick with but one coastie.

Media Storage

If you buy blank disks in bulk, you'll need somewhere to put them after burning.

I found that jewel cases were fragile. And I never did have the paper sleeves on hand when needed.

So I devised my own paper folder from a standard piece of printer paper.

It is durable if made from heavy gauge paper.

Making a paper DVD holder.

Step 1 - Lightly crease the paper by folding it in half, long way.

Step 2 - Place the disk on the centerline about 2/3 of the way up the sheet.

Step 3 - Fold the bottom up over the disk enough to cover it plus a bit more.

Step 4 - Fold in the sides.

Step 5 - Fold down the top.

Step 6 - Apply tape to the back.

I use a clear sterilite tote to store the disks in their folders. It holds about 80.

Cables

Whenever possible, you should connect your equipment with component video cables.

Those are the red white and yellow tipped jobs that come with new equipment.

Using the coaxial cable works, but be careful of interference patterns.

When you must acquire these cables and can't scrounge them from people with extras, simple is best.

Cheap, short, cables can sometimes be found at dollar stores.

Your best bet is the cheapest cable of sufficient length from a discount store.

Unless you like spending extra money, don't bother with gold connectors or elaborate cables.

If you have several devices to feed the burner, you should acquire a switch.

Count on $20-$40 at the big box stores.

I have two. They allow me to select one of several input devices with a button press.

My Setup

1 -At the heart of it all is my Magnavox DVD burner.

2 -A Sanyo VCR is available for VHS transfer.

3 -A Phillips DVD player is there as an alternate player or source.

4 -A Phillips 4 source switch brings it all together.

5 -A Sanyo 27 inch CRT Television brings everything into view.

6 -An Aiwa stereo fed from ports on the TV lets me pump up the volume.

There is currently no external source. I do my initial recording off site.

Off camera is another Magnavox burner.

It's located with my dish network subscription at the old family home.

I'm blocked from both satellites by terrain. And I just wont do business with the local cable company.

In the office a Phillips player and the Toshiba vcr feed my 15 inch Sanyo LCDTV through a Sony switch.