Russ Carmack | The News Tribune
Oyster lovers can enjoy a plate of fried Pacific oysters with cocktail sauce and oyster stew at Xinh's Clam and Oyster House in Shelton.
Heaven on a Half Shell
Anna King; For The News Tribune
Winter is prime time for Pacific Northwest oysters
The pearls of winter shouldn't be strung about a women's neck; instead they are put to better use when slurped, baked or fried. Pacific Northwest oysters - resting beneath the dark, cool waters of the Puget Sound - are at their finest during the winter months.
"Right now the water is cold, and the oysters are good," Xinh T. Dwelley said as she shucked a small Olympia oyster. Dwelley is the chef at Xinh's Clam and Oyster House in Shelton and has spent her life working with Northwest oysters.
Dwelley, 51, came to America from Vietnam in 1970 after she married a soldier during the war. Two years later, Dwelley found a job with a small oyster company shucking oysters. She took the job out of circumstance, but it has become her life's work and passion for more than 30 years.
"I've done other jobs, but I always come back to the oyster," Dwelley said.
Her first day on the job, she shucked about 8 gallons of oyster meat. The second day, her knife slipped and cut her hand badly, but she still was able to shuck 12 gallons.
Since that time, Dwelley has won many awards for her deft movements with an oyster knife.
"The best day I ever shucked was 37 and a half gallons of oyster meat," Dwelley said.
"That was the best day of my life," she said.
After shucking oysters for many years, Dwelley decided to experiment with cooking them, in traditional and new ways. After people raved about and requested her cooking, Taylor Shellfish Farms decided to open their own restaurant with Dwelley as the chef.
"Now I don't have to shuck anymore," she said, smiling widely.
Dwelley has taken her recipes not only to local oyster cooking competitions but others around the United States.
She has demonstrated how to cook oysters in Waikiki, Hawaii; Pebble Beach, Calif.; and Cleveland, Ohio.
"I never thought an oyster could take me all over the place," she said.
What exactly is an oyster?
Oysters are mollusks, or a shelled invertebrate much like a clam, snail, abalone or mussel. They are also bivalves, meaning their shells are in two halves and held together by a flexible hinge made of ligaments. When submersed, they use gills to breathe and to filter out small particles of plant or animal material for food.
During the summer, oysters filter large amounts of algae out of the water. They become larger and also become spawny, or softer, while they are breeding.
During winter, there is not sufficient light and water temperature for much algae growth, and the oyster becomes firmer and more tasty.
"For people who enjoy eating raw oysters, this is the best time to be eating them," Bill Dewey, spokesman for Taylor Shellfish Farms in Shelton. "In the summertime, the oysters are in their spawning conditions and they are not the best for eating raw."
Often labeled as slimy, gross or as something that will make you sick - sometimes oysters are misunderstood, Dwelley said.
"People are either oyster lovers or oyster haters. You don't find a lot of people in between," she said. "I think sometimes people are afraid because they don't know about oysters. They think they don't like seafood, and they hear the word, 'oyster' and they think, 'Yuck!'"
But for those who have the courage to take the first slurp - a pleasant surprise and a new appreciation for bivalves may be discovered.
The frigid, cool slip of creamy meat passes though the lips of those who dare to try the delicacy raw. They also come presalted and in their own serving dishes.
"They don't taste slimy or fishy at all. They are really nice shellfish," Dwelley said.
Akin to fine wine
Well-prepared, fresh oysters are an unbeatable delicacy, according to Dwelley.
"I have people who come and say they would never eat a raw oyster," she said. "But after I shuck it, put the lemon on it and they try it - they love them."
Once she has introduced hesitant restaurant patrons to oysters, it's hard to turn them away.
"And the next time they order them by themselves," she said. "It makes me very happy."
Once you develop a taste for oysters, you can start discerning between the different species and varieties.
"(They are) a lot like wines," Dewey said, "the oysters' flavor will vary depending upon the food in the bay that they are growing on."
For example, although they are both Pacific oysters - a Totten Pacific will taste different from a Dosewallips Pacific - because they are grown in different areas of Puget Sound.
Like a fish out of water
Once an oyster is plucked from the beach, the clock starts. The freshness of an oyster is not measured in days but in hours. How good it will be to eat largely depends upon how much time has passed between the beach and the table.
"The fresher the better," said Peter Becker, owner of Little Skookum Shellfish Growers of Shelton.
There are several important things to notice when buying a fresh oyster. Oysters bought from a certified grower must be accompanied by a product tag. This tag states where the oyster came from, when it was harvested and who grew it. Anyone buying an oyster can request to see the tag.
"Most restaurants should be able to produce the tags - and supermarkets as well," Dewey said.
Live oysters should be displayed resting on top of crushed ice, not buried in it. They should also be tightly closed or close quickly if lightly tapped.
Becker recommends oyster buyers get up close and personal with their shellfish.
"If you can smell it, don't buy it," he said. "It should smell like salt water."
Then, just like a melon, give the oyster a little thump, Becker said.
"Tap the shell, if it sounds hollow it's been allowed to dry out," he said.
If one oyster in the bunch seems a bit fishy, chances are the rest may not be far behind. It may be wise to try buying shellfish at a different location.
The same rules of freshness apply to shucked oysters. All containers of shucked oysters should be labeled with information listing the oyster company and date they were shucked and packed.
Customers should also make sure the liquid the oysters are packed in is clear.
"If the liquid is cloudy or milky, they have been held too long," Becker said.
Washington has some of the most stringent controls on the oyster industry, he said. The companies work closely with the state Department of Health to keep quality high.
Other regions allow oysters to be "cleaned-up" after harvest - disinfected with chlorine or exposed to ultraviolet light to kill harmful bacteria. In Washington, oysters must be safe to eat right out of the water.
Becker said Washington produces about 85 percent of the shellfish on the West Coast.
Babying a bivalve
Properly handling an oyster will ensure its freshness.
"When you take care of an oyster, its like meat or chicken or anything else - it's a very perishable product," Dwelley said. "Treat them just like fish even if they're in the shell."
Oysters should not be kept waiting atop a shelf or kitchen counter, Dwelley said.
Oysters can be stored on crushed ice in the fridge, with their cup side facing up. This ensures they do not lose their water and dry out when they peek open. Oysters may also be covered with a damp towel to keep them from becoming dry.
"Make sure they are fresh when you buy them, and use them within a couple of days," Dwelley said.
Oysters should never be stored in fresh water, because it will kill them, she said. And a freshly shucked oyster should be used right away.
Something to celebrate
Oysters were harvested in the Northwest long before white settlers arrived. And the celebration of the bivalve continues.
Since 1982, on the first weekend in October, those who want to revel in the fine art of shucking and slurping Pacific Northwest oysters have gathered in Mason County for Oysterfest. Held at the county fairgrounds, the event draws crowds of 20,000 to 30,000 people. They come to learn about the popular bivalves, view oyster-related art, compete in cooking and shucking contests and sample oysters by the dozen.
A resident of Shelton and the originator of the festival, Dick Oltman, 74, is proud of how popular the nonprofit event has become.
"We were one of the top 100 small festivals in the United States," he said.
How to shuck an oyster
Follow these simple steps to open an oyster with ease. You will need a sharp oyster-shucking knife, a damp cloth towel, heavy rubber gloves and a flat, sturdy countertop.
Make sure your oyster is fresh and tightly closed. If it gaps open it should close quickly if tapped lightly. A fresh oyster should not smell fishy, but like salt water. Rinse or lightly scrub the outside of its shell.
Turn the oyster so that the scooped part of its shell is facing up. Then find the hinge of the shell. Carefully hold the oyster near the hinge on a damp towel with your left hand on a sturdy countertop (reverse these directions if left-handed).
Step 1: In the middle of the front of the oyster's shell, push the oyster knife in a downward motion, then between the two halves.
Step 2: Once the shell is partially opened, slide the knife under the oyster and cut its bottom muscle attachment away from the shell.
Step 3: Cut the top muscle attachment from the shell and let the oyster slide into the cupped half of the shell.
Step 4: Carefully remove the top of the shell, leaving the oyster meat in the cupped part. Then remove any small pieces of shell that may have remained. Enjoy!
Hangtown Fry, stew are great oyster recipes
Here are some favorite recipes from Washington shellfish pros.
Taylor Shellfish Farms Oyster Stew
2 pints shucked oysters
1/2 cup butter
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 medium onion, peeled and diced
1 can evaporated milk
4 cups whole milk
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup bacon bits (if desired)
Chopped parsley and green onions for garnish
Blanch oysters for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the oysters. Cut into bite-size pieces. Melt butter in a pot and brown garlic. Sauté garlic and onion until they are soft and translucent.
Add oysters, milk, salt, pepper and bacon bits if using. Stir until warm (do not boil). Garnish with chopped parsley, green onions. Serve with oyster crackers.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings for dinner, or up to 8 servings for an appetizer.
Cook's note: The oysters should be blanched until they are firm, similar to a poached egg. For a white, clear broth, drain the oysters well of their liquor as well as the water used for blanching them. Do not use either as stock in the stew.
The Oyster House Hangtown Fry
2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup quartered mushrooms
4 medium-size freshly shucked Pacific oysters chopped into quarters
6 fresh spinach leaves (if large, tear into smaller pieces)
3 eggs
Pinch of freshly grated parmesan cheese
In a frying pan, heat a small amount of olive oil, sauté the mushrooms and fresh oysters for about 2-3 minutes until the oysters are firm or about 90 percent cooked. Add the spinach leaves and wilt for about 30 seconds.
Whip eggs in separate container then add to the fry pan. Cook the omelet slowly on medium heat, on both sides.
When eggs are done, garnish with grated parmesan cheese and serve immediately.
Home fries, bacon and toast are great complements to make it a meal.
Yield: 1 3-egg omelet.
Cook's note: Watch the heat in order to not overcook the eggs. Legend has it that this recipe derives its name from a man on death row during the Depression. For his last meal, he requested eggs and oysters to make it difficult to hang him since both were hard to find at that time.
Xinh's Baked Oysters on the Half Shell
2 dozen fresh oysters in the shell
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar (or honey)
1/2 cup green onion, coarsely chopped
1 cup grated parmesan cheese
1/2 red pepper, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup butter or margarine, softened
1/2 cup onion, coarsely chopped
Juice of 1 lemon or 1 tablespoon lemon concentrate
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon dried basil
Place oysters on a baking pan and bake in 420 degree oven for 10 minutes or until open. Cut oyster meat away from the shell, preheat the oven on broil and place the oven rack on top setting. Place all other ingredients in a blender and blend to a coarse meal consistency.
Place each oyster in its top shell (cupped side of the shell) and arrange on a cookie sheet or large baking dish. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the mixture on top of each oyster.
Broil only until oysters are a light brown, or about 10 minutes. Serve while hot for a great appetizer.
Yield: makes 24 appetizers; allow for 2 to 3 per person.
Cook's note: Closely watch the oysters so they don't burn. This dish may be well received with people who are timid about eating oysters.
Take your pick
There are four predominant species of oysters, grown and eaten in the Pacific Northwest. Each type has a unique flavor and characteristics.
Pacific (Crassostrea gigas): Originally from Japan, the Pacific oyster is the most widely cultured oyster in the world. It is popular to farm because it is extremely hearty, is simple to propagate and its mild flavor is highly prized. They are sold under a variety of names, usually denoting their type or growing area.
Kumamoto (Crassostrea sikamea): The Kumo is definitely a giant among oysters, but not because it's large. It is, in fact, quite small, only slightly larger than the tiny Olympia oyster. With its deep cupping and highly sculptured, fluted shell, this smooth flavored, fruity morsel has a dedicated fan club. Lovers of Kumos will wait an eternity for this slower-growing variety.
Olympia (Ostrea lurida): The tiny Olympia oyster - the true native oyster of the West Coast - takes at least three years to grow to the size of a "four-bit" piece and demands a great deal of attention from its growers. Still they are well worth the trouble to grow. The first-time raw-oyster eater often chooses the diminutive Oly to experiment with before progressing to larger varieties.
European flat (Ostrea edulis): Once the most widely cultured oyster in Europe, the flat oyster has since been displaced by the heartier Pacific. This round, flat oyster however, is still well worth growing, as its salty, metallic flavor is distinctive.
Source: Taylor Shellfish Farms
(Published 12:30AM, January 15th, 2003)
