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Questions And Answers & Tips

Ever wonder exactly what model of Cadillac you own or are considering owning? An advertised car may not be a Coupe DeVille, it could be a Series 62 or Calais Coupe instead (or better yet it could be an Eldorado Seville). Your VIN# could look like this: 59M1123456 or 64B090909. The first two characters are the year of the vehicle and the third is the model designation.
Here are the Codes:

A=Series 62 4 window sedan
B=De Ville 4 window sedan
C=De Ville Town Sedan
E=Eldorado Biarritz convertible
F=Series 62 convertible
G=Series 62 hardtop coupe
J=De Ville hardtop coupe
K=Series 62 6 window sedan
L=De Ville 6 window sedan
M=Fleetwood 60 Special sedan
R=Fleetwood 75 sedan
S=Fleetwood 75 limousine

Where to find the VIN codes- On your car's title or the plastic plate on the drivers front door post below the stricker plate. Lastly on the metal plate on front hood drip sill above the master cylinder is the body, trim, accessory and paint information which can also tell you what model you have.

Fixing your seat problem. (By Tim Groves)
Do you hear a loud "clicking" noise when you press the switch in each position? If not, then it may be in the relay or motor. If you hear the clicking noise it is in the motor, transmission or tracks. If you hear the clicking noise this is what I would do.

Unbolt the seat and lay it back against the rear seat. Unbolt the transmission from the motor and remove the cables (you might have to use vise grips to get the screws loose since they may have a special head). Take the thee screws that hold the transmission together and carefully take it apart. Nothing will "fly out" but there are three springs that you don't want to fall out and not know where they go. The transmission is pretty simple. There are three solenoids that engage three nylon gears. Leave the solenoids in the one half of the transmission. Pull out the nylon gears and clean out the dried out grease. Relubricate them with some lithium grease and put them back in (watch the springs). Pull out the metal rods in the solenoids and see if they are rusty. If they are take some steel wool and clean the rust off. Put the transmission back together. You can test the transmission by grounding the body of the transmission. Take a jumper wire and put voltage to each of the three wire connections on the transmission. You should here it "click" each time. That is the solenoid engaging.

Next, take a reversible variable speed drill and attach it to each of the cable ends. Operate the drill at a slow speed and see how smooth each track moves. I would take lithium grease and lubricate the tracks. Run the forward and backward adjuster back and forth with the drill to work the grease in the tracks. The front and rear tilt adjusters just need the long jackscrew lubricated. Do this with both sides until everything is moving freely. To make sure the seat is even on both sides, use the drill and run the adjustment on each of the adjusters to full up or full down and full forward or full backward. Then reattach the cables to the transmission. Reattach the motor and transmission to the seat frame. Before you bolt the seat down you can test the assembly. Just be sure to ground the seat frame since it is not bolted down yet. It's not really hard just a little time consuming. Many times dirt and corrosion build up in the seat tracks.

Put your hand on the relay and engage the switch. Do you feel the relay working? I've had them have corrosion on them too. If the relay doesn't work, no power will go to the motor. Just be careful taking the cover off the relay, there are tiny wires that break easily. Dreading it is worse than doing it. Good luck, Tim (Outstanding info, many thanks!!!)

Here are 20 ways you waste money on your car.

Premium gas instead of regular. Buy the cheapest gasoline that doesn’t make your car engine knock. All octane does is prevent knock; a grade higher than the maker of your car recommends is not a treat. In the 1964 Owners Manual, it is recommended that you burn 89 octane gas and believe me it makes a difference!

3,000-mile oil changes. Manufacturers typically suggest 5,000 miles, 7,500 miles or even longer intervals between oil changes (many car markers now include oil-life monitors that tell you when the oil is dirty -- sometimes as long as 15,000 miles.) There may be two recommendations for oil-change intervals: one for normal driving and one for hard use. If you live in a cold climate, take mostly very short trips, tow a trailer or have a high-revving, high-performance engine, use the more aggressive schedule. If you seldom drive your car, go by the calendar rather than your odometer. Twice a year changes are the minimum.

Skimping. Better to replace a timing belt on the manufacturer’s schedule than to have it break somewhere in western Nebraska. Better to pop for snow tires than to ride that low-profile rubber right into a tree.

Using the dealer’s maintenance schedule instead of the factory’s. Of course he thinks you should have a major tune-up every 30,000 miles. Most of the tasks that we generally think of under the heading of “tune-up” are now handled electronically. Stick to the manufacturer’s schedule unless your car is not running well. If your engine doesn't "miss" -- skip a beat or make other odd noises -- don’t change the spark plugs or wires until the manufacturer says so.

Using a dealer for major services. Independent shops almost always will do the same work much cheaper. Call around, owner’s manual in hand, to find out, mindful that the quality of the work is more of a question mark. Some dealers may tell you using outside garages violates the car’s warranty. This is a lie.

Using a dealer for oil changes. Dealers sometimes run dirt-cheap specials, but otherwise you’ll usually find changes cheaper elsewhere. If you’re using an independent shop for the first time, you might inconspicuously mark your old oil filter to make sure it has indeed been changed. And don’t let them talk you into new wiper blades, new air filters or high-priced synthetic oil, unless your car is one of the few high-performance machines built for it.

Not replacing your air filter and wiper blades yourself. Buy them on sale at a discount auto-parts store rather than having a garage or dealer replace them. Replacement is simple for either part, a 5-minute job. A good schedule for new air filters is every other oil change in a dusty climate; elsewhere at least once every 20,000 miles. Treat yourself to new wipers (it’s easiest to buy the whole blade, not the refill) once a year.

Going to any old repair shop. At the very least, make sure it’s ASE-certified (a good housekeeping seal of approval from the nonprofit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence). From there, look for a well-kept shop with someone who’s willing to answer all your questions. Estimates must include a provision that no extra work will be done without your approval. Drive your car to make sure the problem is fixed before you pay. Pay with a credit card in case there’s a dispute later. Be courteous and pay attention. A good mechanic is hard to find.

Changing your antifreeze every winter. Change it only when a hydrometer suggests it will no longer withstand temperatures 30 degrees below the coldest your area sees in winter. Your dealer or oil-change shop should be happy to check it for free. Every two years is about right. But you also should keep your cooling system happy by running the air conditioner every few weeks in winter to keep it lubricated, checking for puddles underneath the car and replacing belts and hoses before they dry and crack.

Replacing tires when you should be replacing shocks. If your tires are wearing unevenly or peculiarly, your car may be out of alignment or your shocks or struts worn out.

Letting a brake squeal turn into a brake job. Squeal doesn’t necessarily mean you need new rotors or pads; mostly, it’s just annoying. Your first check -- you can probably see your front brakes through the wheels on your car -- is to look at the thickness of the pads. Pads thicker than a quarter-inch are probably fine. If your brakes emit a constant, high-pitched whine and the pads are thinner than a quarter-inch, replace them. If your car shimmies or you feel grinding through the pedal, then your brake rotors need to be turned or replaced.

Not complaining when your warranty claim is rejected. Check Alldata and the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) to see if a technical service bulletin (TSB) has been issued about the component in question. Manufacturers often will repair known defects outside the warranty period (sometimes called a secret warranty). It helps if you’ve done your homework and haven’t been a jerk.

Not keeping records. A logbook of every repair done to your car can help you decide if something’s seriously out of whack. Didn’t I just buy new brake pads? With a log and an envelope stuffed with receipts, you’ll know who did the work and when, and whether or not there’s a warranty on the repair. And a service logbook helps at resale time, too.

Buying an extended warranty. Most manufacturers allow you to wait until just before the regular warranty expires to decide. By then you should know whether your car is troublesome enough to require the extended warranty. Most of them aren’t worth the price.

Overinsuring. Never skimp on liability, but why buy collision and comprehensive insurance on a junker you can probably afford to replace? Add your deductible to your yearly bill for collision and comprehensive coverage, then compare that total with the wholesale value of the car. If it’s more than half, reconsider.

Assuming the problem is major. If your car is overheating but you don’t see a busted hose or lots of steam, it might be the $5 thermostat, not your radiator. Or it may be that ominous “check engine” light itself that’s failed, not your alternator.

Not changing the fuel filter. Have it replaced as a part of your maintenance -- every two years or according to the manufacturer’s schedule -- rather than when it becomes clogged with grit, leaving you at the mercy of the nearest garage.

Not knowing how to change a tire. Have you even looked at your spare? Make sure it’s up to snuff and all the parts of your jack are there. Changing a flat yourself is not only cheaper, it’s faster, too.

Not keeping your tires properly inflated. Check them once a month; otherwise, you’re wasting gasoline, risking a blowout and wearing them out more quickly.

Car washes. Ten bucks for long lines and gray water? Nothing shows you care like doing it yourself.

Sedan Deville vs. Series 62
Some of the differences would include, different exterior trim including different window "belt" molding, the rear fender/qtr panel insignia (Coupe DeVille or Sedan DeVille on the DeVilles....nothing on 62 series) Interior difference would be very pronounced as the 62 series as pleated vinyl & cloth interior designs (although leather was an option), while the DeVilles had elongated diamond tufted fabric & leather and vinyl interior designs. The arm rest on the DeVille has a light while the 62 series just has a reflector on the door panel itself.

Also, ->power windows were standard on DeVilles and optional on 62 series.
->2 way power seats were standard on 62 series, 6 way power seats on DeVilles
->Also bucket seats were available for the DeVille and not available for the 62series.

The biggest difference is probably the transmission. The 62 series cars used the older Hydramatic (jetaway) transmission while the DeVilles used the New for 1964 Turbo Hydramatic (called Turbo 400 on some other makes of cars).
For other years, like the 59's exterior chrome differences occured (ice cream cone chrome on bullet tail lights vs. painted sheet metal), interior dome light configurations, arm rest differences, & many others.

(A simple to understand description by Jason Edge).

Tip:

If you want your vintage vehicle to run at normal temperatures use a 180 degree thermostat. Also 160 degree thermostats will help your engine run cooler and 190 Degree thermostats will help your engine burn excess gases & pollutants.
If your old Cadillac sputters, coughs and acts un-Cadillac like when you first start it, the problem could be the heat riser.

Last updated 1/04/2009.

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