There is a very noticeable increase in throttle response, and overall
power, even at low idle. It is reluctant to stall, and easy
starting. My goal was to increase reliability, not improve power, but
it's a nice side effect. I don't know how much power gain is due to the
fuel injection, and how much is due to the better intake manifold.
Tuning:
Here is how it is tuned. This MUST be done if you have the closed-loop kit or not, because the ECU (electronic control unit) relies on the manual settings until the engine reaches normal operating temperature, then switches to the sensor to adjust fuel mixture. The ECU also relies on the Power setting whenever you have the throttle wide open. The O2 sensor doesn't function correctly until it is hot, so it has to be installed close to the exhaust manifold.
The ECU has five knobs. They control the choke , the acceleration , the idle mixture, the main mixture, and the power or high RPM mixture. All of these controls, adjust a point on a "fuel mixture map" that is pre-programmed into the ECU. It has two maps, one for small blocks, the other for big blocks. (This is only true on my 2D unit, some units you can program with a computer, or may have more maps to choose from, also some have a second Power adjustment)
The first time you start the engine, you put all the controls in their
center of travel. Turn the key and it will start and run. Then you depress the
gas pedal until the engine is at 3000 rpms and hold the pedal still. You
then adjust the Main setting until you reach the maximum manifold
vacuum, or highest RPM. The Main setting is the first, because this
setting effects all other adjustments. You then
adjust the Idle setting until the engine idles smoothly. Then you drive
the vehicle and adjust whatever needs adjusting. It takes a few cold
starts to get the choke just right, but the rest are straight forward.
That's it. Mine has held its setting perfect, and hasn't required any attention.
Closed-Loop Thingy:
I have since installed the Closed-Loop Thingy and find that I don't really need it because Wisconsin
is relatively flat land, and my ECU settings seem to always work fine. Perhaps if you live in a mountainous
area, you may find it useful. If the Jeep ever sees a mountain, I'll let you know if I need it or not.
Gas Mileage:
I have no idea.... I don't keep track. I don't know what kind of mileage I was getting before, so I couldn't even
compare if I knew what it was getting now. Sorry!
MSD 6 Off-Road Ignition:
I've heard of problems when trying to run the ProJection with MSD ignitions. I recently purchased the
MSD ignition and also had problems getting the vehicle to run with that combination.
I wired the MSD to my distributor as if it were a magnetic pickup distributor.
This is where I went wrong. After a few calls to Holley and MSD, a tech at MSD was able to suggest
that my ignition was as "hall effect", which at the time I had never heard of.
If you're unfamiliar with ignitions (as I was), they resemble magnetic pickup ignitions. The hall effect distributor
gets wired to the MSD ignition as if it were a "points type" ignition. After making the changes to the ignition
wiring, I have had no problems with the combination since. The only downfall is that you have to retain
almost all of the original ignition to function the MSD ignition. So after all your work, you still have
your old parts triggering the MSD. MSD offers a billet distributor that combined with the
MSD 6 Off-Road would replace your entire ignition system.
Problems:
No problems!!!!!!!!!!!! I am very pleased so far. It starts good even at
-20 degree F. Sometimes, I have to hold the
pedal down a little for a few seconds when it's real cold, but it is not
a big deal, and is a great improvement over the carb. (The throttle body
uses a "high idle solenoid" just like a carb, that allows it to warm
up.)
The Infamous CB Interference Monster:
I have never experienced any problems with interference or unexplained ECU failure, or any ECU failure for that matter.
Take me to Index Page
Email mike@mikesjeep.com
