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"Mystery Quilt"


Mystery quilt
Above: finished quilt.
Below left: detail of fabrics. The color is truest in the hand-dyed detail and in the stipple detail.
Below right: detail of stipple-quilting.
fabric detail  stipple detail

A quiltmaker's e-list I am on did this mystery quilt out of Fat QUarter Quilts as a challenge. "Clues" were posted to the list, as to what amounts of fabric to use and the color-value they should be. Then each successive clue told us how to piece each fabric. The "solution" to the mystery was a choice of layouts.

I pulled all these fabrics from my stash except the indigo-purple in a few of the blocks and the inner border. Even the backing/ background fabric!
59" x 80", all-cotton, cotton/poly batting.

Our church youth group was about to have a fund-raiser, so I told my daughter if she would help me get it together, we would donate it to them so they could hold an auction for it. The kids took bids and got $56.50!

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"StarLight"


Starlight

This is the second "Mystery Quilt" I made from the same components. My daughter also helped with the sewing on this one. As you can see we played with the layout quite a bit! This was made for my mom and dad for Mother's Day/Father's Day 2001. The background fabric that looks gray here is actually khaki with a tiny little blue and white print. The room it was to be used in is carpeted in green. One of my mom's favorite colors is red, and my dad's is blue. So it was kind of a challenge to fit those colors all in the same quilt! Since they are from Ohio, I thought the Ohio Star configuration in the lower right section of the quilt was very appropriate.

The label was a homespun dresser-doily I had, that was hand-hemmed and embroidered by my grandmother (mom's mother). I wrote the quilt dedication on the part of the doily that was blank.

This quilt is all-cotton, with a 100% cotton "hospital" blanket for batting. 58" x 88"


















Fabric Requirements ** 1 Yard ** Background - any shade of blue, green or blue-green like the sea, marble, TOT, tiny print, or allover subdued floral

Fabrics A through E - Should be bright colors! Any tropical print, bright, or a loud floral. Don't be afraid to use an "ugly" fabric! Don’t worry if the prints don’t really "go" together!
  • A -- 1/4 yd or 1 FQ
  • B -- 1/4 yd or 1 FQ
  • C -- 1/4 yd or 1 FQ
  • D -- 1/4 yd or 1 FQ (actually 5" for fabric misers)
  • E -- 1/4 yd or 1 FQ (actually 5" for fabric misers)

    Inner border - ** 1/4 yd ** Can be made from scraps A through E or any print that incorporates colors from fabrics A through E

    Outer border - ** 1/2 yard ** Should be a solid or TOT, something to "calm" and frame the quilt. If your background fabric is light, I suggest a dark or vice versa.

    Binding - 13" (continuous-bias or cut 5, 2.5" strips for straight-grain)... this will make double binding.

    Backing - 1 1/2 yds. of 45" goods (if it is a true 45" you will not need to piece any down the side, otherwise you will need to cut about 3" and one extra 3" square off the length and piece to the width)

    *Optional*

  • torn 2" strips of greens as embellishment, to look like seaweed.
  • small buttons or beads for "eyes."


















    Cutting Instructions
    Side Setting triangles
  • Cut one 14.5" strip of background fabric. Cut across into 2 pieces 14" each. Trim those pieces (14.5" x 14") to 14" square. Cut each square in half diagonally TWICE. Set aside.
  • Out of remainder of strip, cut one, 9.5" square. Do not cut this square diagonally at all!!
  • Then out of the piece that is left, cut Corner Setting Triangles -- 2 squares 7.25" each. Cut these in half diagonally. Set aside.

    Blocks A/B (makes 3 "A" and 3 "B", 9" finished blocks)

  • Cut one 6.5" strip of each of A and B. Cut across into 3, 6.5" squares
  • If using yard goods (not FQs) trim the remainder of the strip to 4" and cut it across into 6, 4" squares. [If using FQs, just cut 6, 4" squares.]
  • Cut two 4" strips of background fabric. Cut one across into 10, 4" squares.
  • Cut 2, 4" squares from the other strip and then trim strip to 3.5". Cut across into 10, 3.5" squares. (You will use 4 of these squares in block D/E)

    Block C (makes 4, 9" finished blocks)

  • Cut one 4.5" strip of C. Cut off 4, 4.5" squares. Trim remainder of strip to 2.5" wide and Cut 4, 2.5" squares.
  • Cut one 3" strip of C. Cut it into 8, 3" squares.
    [If using a FQ, cut one 4.5" strip and cut it into 4.5" squares. Cut two 3" strips and cut 8, 3" squares from them. Cut remainder into 2.5" pieces and square them.]
  • Cut one 3" strip of background fabric. Cut it into 8, 3" squares
  • Cut 2 strips 3.5" wide of background fabric. Cut one strip across into 4, 9.5" strips. Cut the other strip across into 4, 6.5" strips.

    Block D/E (makes 1 each, 9" finished blocks in fabric D and E)

  • Cut one 2.5" strip each of D and E. Cut across into 7, 2.5" squares.
  • Cut one 2" strip each of D and E. Cut it into 18, 2" squares.
    [If using FQs, you will need 2, 2" strips for this step, each cut into 9, 2" squares]
  • Cut 2, 2" strips of background fabric. Cut them into 36, 2" squares.
  • You will need also 4, 3.5" squares of background fabric that you already cut with block A/B.

    Inner border

  • (1/4 yd or 1 FQ or scraps of fabrics A - E) - You will need 164 linear inches of 1.5" strips of fabric... I suggest piecing together bits from fabrics A through E, or cut 4, 1.5" strips of fabric (8 strips if using a FQ)... piece the strips end-to-end.

    Outer border

  • You will need 1/2" yd of a solid or TOT co-ordinate, cut into 3" strips.


















    Blocks A and B
    (makes 3 each, 9" finished blocks in 2 different fabrics, A & B)
  • Take the 6, 4" squares of Fabrics A and B and lay them face-down to the 12, 4" squares of background fabric. Mark the diagonal of each square on the back of the lighter fabric. Chain-piece them, sewing parallel to the diagonal line, 1/4" away, both sides of the line. Cut units apart. Press seams toward the darker fabric. Square units up to 3.5".
  • For each block A (3 of them), sew one 3.5" square of background fabric to a HST so that the background fabric of the HST is touching the background-fabric square and the diagonal goes from bottom left to upper right. Sew another HST to the right edge of this pair with the diagonal going the same way. This is the top row of the block. it looks like this:

  • Sew two HST units together with the fabric A in the top right corner like this:

  • Now turn this unit 1/4 turn clockwise and attach the right side of it to the left side of a 6.5" square of fabric A, like this:

  • Sew the top row of the blocks A to the top of the HST/6.5" square unit. The block will look like this:

  • Repeat for all three blocks of fabric B. Square blocks up to 9.5”


















    Blocks C
    (makes 4, 9" finished blocks)
  • Lay the 8, 3" squares of fabric C face to face with the 8, 3" squares of background fabric. Mark the diagonal of each square on the back of the lighter fabric. Chain-piece them, sewing parallel to the diagonal line, 1/4" away, both sides of the line. Cut units apart. Press seams toward the darker fabric. Square units up to 2.5".
  • For each block (4 of them), sew one 2.5" square of fabric C to a HST so that the background fabric of the HST is touching the Fabric C square and the diagonal goes from bottom right to upper left. Sew another HST to the left edge of this pair with the diagonal going the same way. This is the top row of the block. It looks like this:

    where the lower left corners and the solid square are fabric C.
  • Sew two HST units together with the fabric C in the lower right corner like this:

  • Now turn this unit 1/4 turn clockwise and attach the left side of it to the right side of a 4.5" square of fabric C, like this:

  • Sew the top row of the blocks C to the top of the HST/4.5" square unit.
  • Now sew one 3.5" x 6.5" strip of backround fabric to the top of each of the 4, C blocks.
  • Lastly, sew one 3.5" x 9.5" strip of background fabric to the right side of each of the 4 C blocks. The block will look like this:













    Blocks D and E
    (makes 1 each, 9" finished blocks in 2 different fabrics, D & E)
  • Lay the 18, 2" squares of fabric C face to face with the 18, 2" squares of background fabric. Mark the diagonal of each square on the back of the lighter fabric. Chain-piece them, sewing parallel to the diagonal line, 1/4" away, both sides of the line. Cut units apart. Press seams toward the darker fabric. Square units up to 1.5".
  • Piece together a pair of little D/background HST units so that the diagonals face lower left to upper right:
  • Then add another HST unit to the right side:

    This is your top row of your block D subunit.
  • Sew two HST units together with the fabric D in the top right corner like this:
    Now turn this unit 1/4 turn clockwise and attach the right side of it to the left side of a 2.5" square of fabric D, like this:

  • Sew the top row of the blocks D to the top of the HST/2.5" square unit. The block subunit will look like this:

  • assemble the 7 little block D or E subunits and 2 3.5" squares of background fabric as shown:

  • Square blocks D and E up to 9.5."


















    Setting
    ~~~~~~~~~~~ Putting it all together!
  • Take one Corner Setting Triangle. Mark the center of the long edge. Handle it carefully since the long edge is on the bias and can be easily stretched out of shape!
  • Mark the center of the top edge of one block of fabric A. Match the center with the Corner Setting Triangle and sew.
  • Take two Setting Triangles. Again handling carefully, mark the center of one of the short sides on each triangle. Mark the center of the sides of the Block A that you just sewed a corner triangle to. Match centers and sew the triangles to the two opposite sides.

    This is your first "Row" of your quilt top.

  • Sew the remaining two blocks of fabric A to each other , right edge of one to left edge of the other.
  • Now take one block of fabric C and sew the BOTTOM edge of it to the right side of the pair of fabric A blocks.
  • Take two setting triangles. Mark the centers of one short side on each one. Mark the centers of the blocks A, A, and C row you just sewed together. Sew the setting triangles to the sides like this: /[ ][ ][ ]\. This is your 2nd row.
  • Take one corner setting triangle. Mark the center of the long edge. Mark the center of the BOTTOM edge of one block of fabric C. Matching centers, stitch.
  • Sew the only solid (not pieced) 9.5" block of background fabric to the TOP edge of the block of fabric C that you just attached a corner triangle to the bottom of.
  • Sew the BOTTOM edge of another block from fabric C to the background fabric block, along the edge opposite the first block of fabric C you sewed.
  • Now take one block of fabric B and sew the LEFT edge to the row that is forming.
  • Take one block of either fabric D or E (your choice) and sew the LEFT edge of the block to the RIGHT edge of the fabric B block.
  • Lastly mark the center of the long edge of one of the corner setting triangles. Mark the center of the block of fabric D or E at the end of the current row. Match centers and stitch the seam. It should look like this: <[ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]>. This is the 3rd and middle row. Almost done!
  • Sew the RIGHT edge of the remaining block D or E to the LEFT edge of a block of fabric B.
  • Sew the RIGHT edge of the blocks D(E) and B to the LEFT edge of a block of fabric B.
  • Take two setting triangles. Mark the centers of one short side on each one. Mark the centers of the ends of the blocks D(E), B, and B row you just sewed together. Sew the setting triangles to the sides like this: \ [ ][ ][ ] /. This is your 4th row.
  • Take two Setting Triangles. Again handling carefully, mark the center of one of the short sides on each triangle. Mark the center of the BOTTOM and TOP of the last block of fabric C. Match centers and sew the triangles to the block. \ [ ] /.
  • Take one Corner Setting Triangle. Mark the center of the long edge. Handle it carefully since the long edge is on the bias and can be easily stretched out of shape!
  • Mark the center of the RIGHT edge of the block of fabric C that you just sewed setting triangles to the top and bottom of. Match the center with the Corner Setting Triangle and sew.

    This is your last "Row" of your quilt top.
  • Now set row 1 (that has three corners on it) to row two, matching center blocks and pinning as you go out. Sew the seam.
  • Set row 1-2 to row three, again matching the center block and pinning as you go out.
  • Add row 4 to the quilt top, matching the center blocks first.
  • Lastly, add row 5 (that has three corners on it) to row 4 of the quilt top, matching center blocks and pinning as you go out. Stitch seam. Press quilt top from the back, then from the front.

    Now take a break! All you have to add is your borders and you are done!


















    Borders
    ~~~~~~~~~
  • Measure your quilt top across the center from top to bottom. Cut two pieces of Inner Border strips to this measurement. Sew them to the two sides of the quilt. Press borders, pressing seams toward borders.
  • Measure your quilt top across the center from side to side. Cut two inner border strips to this measure. Sew to the top and bottom of the quilt. Press borders, pressing seams toward borders.
  • Measure your quilt top across the center from top to bottom. Cut two pieces of Outer Border strips to this measurement. Sew them to the two sides of the quilt. Press borders, pressing seams toward borders.
  • Measure your quilt top across the center from side to side. Cut two Outer Border strips to this measure. Sew to the top and bottom of the quilt. Press borders, pressing seams toward borders.
  • TADA!! Your quilt top is Done!!
  • If you wish, you can machine-stitch random torn strips of green fabric here and there to look like seaweed. You may also stitch buttons or eyes on the fish to give them personality!
  • Don't forget to label your work of art!
  • If you want to use your quilt as a wallhanging, don't forget to add a hanging sleeve when you are done quilting and binding it.