Going to Market

Pompeii - Outside Ancient City Wall

Going to market and shopping the alleys has to be one of my all-time favorite pastimes. There are some great deals to be found, if you are willing to bargain. Bargaining in expected here, and the first price quoted to you in the markets or alleys is not what you are expected to pay. It's fun to see how low you can get the vendor to drop his price. When you quote your price, make it the lowest price you feel is reasonable to pay, and be willing to go up from there. When the vendor has hit his "final price" you must be willing to walk away if it's not what you want to pay, you'll be surprised how many times you are called back, and the item will be sold to you for what you wanted to pay, or very close to it.

The Officer's Wives club sells a book called "Shopping On The Boot," I highly recommend buying it, if you love to shop. Markets, alleys, and areas to shop in the area are listed along with directions on how to get there.

Open air markets and "alleys"

The following is a list of some open-air and similar markets in the area, when they are open and what main items are sold. Many are in side streets, and parking can be a problem. The best bet is to take public transportation or parking your car as near as you can and walking. If you can't find the market or alley you are looking for right away, watch for people carrying bags and ask "Dov'è il mercatino?" Pointing should then get you there.

Mercato delle Pulci: Open Sun., 0800-1400. Main items: junk, coins, lamps, tables, and a few real antiques. Located on via Poggioreale, near the graveyard, northeast of the central Naples train station. Take the Metropolitana to Piazza Garibaldi (main train station) and then walk or take a bus / trolley.

Shoe Alley: Open Sun., Mon. and Fri. 0700-1400. Main items: shoes, clothing and material. Located on via Marino di Caramanico. Take the Corso Malta Tangenziale exit, go straight until the first stop light, turn left on via Nuova Poggioreale. Via Marino di Caramanico is the second side street off via Nuova Poggioreale.

Gold Alley: Open: Normal shopping hours. Main items: gold, jewelry. Located on Via San Biagio dei Librai. The ICR tour will take you there. Take the Metropolitana to Piazza Cavour, walk down the main road east, turn right on Via Duomo, turn right four blocks later, onto Via San Biagio dei Librai.

Christmas Alley: Open: Normal shopping hours late Nov. until Christmas, extended to later at night and Sundays as Christmas gets closer. Located on a side alley leading off Via San Biagio dei Librai. Main items: Creches (manger scenes) and figurines; often very elaborate. Naples is famous for these items. The ICR tour will show you where it is. Follow directions as to Gold Alley.

Thieves Alley (Mercato Duchesca): Open: Mon.- Sat. 0900-1930. Main items: Clothing, sportswear and equipment, camping gear, radio and stereo gear, some furniture and furnishings. Located in the many narrow streets due west of the main train station behind the statue of Garibaldi. This is a commercial district and most of tables of items for sale are located just outside small shops.

Mercato S. Antonio Abate (Buvero): Open: Mon.-Sat. 0900-1930. Main items: food of all sorts; beware of sanitary conditions. Located north of the central Naples train station, on the street Borgo S. Antonio Abate, which runs parallel to Corso Garibaldi. Known locally as "Buvero," so ask for that when asking for directions.

Vomero market (Mercato di Antignano): Open Mon.-Sat. 0900-1400. Main items: fruit and vegetables, clothing, household items. Located in the Vomero section of Naples, about six blocks from the Funicolare stations. From Piazza Vanvitelli, follow via Bernini about four blocks to the north. The edge of the market will be on the left.

Fuorigrotta market: Open Mon.-Sat. 0900-1400. Main items: fruit, vegetables, fish, cheese and other foods; plus kitchen gadgets, household items and plastic ware. Located directly across the street from the Cumana train station in Fuorigrotta, about six blocks from the soccer stadium (there is a small alley leading to the market). This market is semi-permanent, covered with standing stalls, although some vendors drive up trucks and park them around the outside.

Antiques market: Open Sun. 0800-1400. Main items: Antiques. Located in Villa Comunale (city park), which is along the Naples waterfront between Mergellina and the Castel Dell'Ovo. Drive, or take the Metropolitana to Mergellina, walk to the water, turn left and walk to the park.

Bagnoli market: Open Mon.- Sat. 0800-1930. Main items: similar to the Fuorigrotta market. Located in Bagnoli in the side streets just down from the Metropolitana train station, which is about two blocks from the AFSOUTH front gate.

Pozzuoli fish market: Open: Tues.- Sun, 0700-1300, open earlier Sun., which is the best day to go. Main items: Fresh seafood of all types. Located along the pier in old Pozzuoli, near the Tempio Serapide and the ferry/hydrofoil landings. There are also smaller suburban markets (in Monterusciello and on Via Staffetta in Lago Patria, for example). Ask your sponsor or neighbors for details. Italian stores

Italian Stores

Of course, Italy has many stores and shops. Italy is world famous for some items like leather goods from Florence or glass from Venice. The Naples region is famous for its porcelain and pottery (Capodimonte and Vietri, for example), inlaid wood (Sorrento), and cameo and coral work (Pompeii region in particular). Main Naples shopping districts include the Galleria Umberto and Via Roma / Via Toledo downtown, and the Vomero section.

Main department stores include Upim and Standa. Other stores range from the small corner shop, up to larger supermercatos and centro commerciale (shopping center) outlets. Some, like Panorama in Formia, Euromercato in Casoria and Città Mercato in Pompeii and especially in Mugnano, are large enough to rightly claim to be small U.S.- style malls. In almost all places, you are expected to bag your own purchases; small bags are usually available for about 150-200 lire each.

Shopping hours in Italy tend to be Monday-Saturday, from 0900-1400 and then from about 1630-2000; shops usually close in the afternoon (although the supermercati generally stay open), and few are open on Sundays.