Breeding Julidochromis Ornatus
Due to its unique geological history, Lake Tanganyika in central Africa contains a number of plant and animal species found nowhere else on earth. One of these is Julidochromis Ornatus, a beautiful lemon yellow fish with three brown stripes running from the snout to the caudal fin and a dark spot at the base of the tail.
The best arrangement for breeding J. Ornatus is a large tank containing several of these cichlids. The fish clearly benefit from being amoug others of their kind, and in this situation they can pair off naturally. However, for aquarists who do not have the good fortune to possess a group of these fishes, a 15-18 gallon aquarium makes an excellant breeding tank for a pair of J. Ornatus. Water conditions should approximate those in the fishes natural habitat, with a slightly alkaline pH of around 7.3 and a hardness of 18-20 degrees dH. Frequently partial water changes have proved highly effective in inducing spawning activity. The ideal temperature range is 75-81 degrees. Though not absolutely essential, several large rocks in the tank will help to make the breeding pair feel more at home in the aquarium, and the nooks and crannies between the stones give the young fry a sense of security.
This fish does not undergo any sort of color change during spawning and courtship activity is largely peaceful. Anywhere from 15 to 40 yellow-grey eggs may be produced, each one about 1/16th of an inch in diameter. Eggs hatch in 3 days and the young are swimming freely 4 to 7 days later. At this stage they are approximately 3/16th of an inch in length and red-brown in color. After 3 weeks or so, when they are 3/8th of inch long, they assume the familiar brown and yellow color pattern of the adults. Growth is quite rapid until the young reach 1 inch long or about a third of their mature length; after this, the growth rate tapers off gradually.
Live foods, particularly Artemia, are the recommended diet for J. Ornatus, and in some cases these fish will take high-quality dry foods. Newly-hatched brine shrimp and baby fish food provide balanced nourishment for growing young. In feeding these cichlids it is important to remember that they will not eat food once it has touched the tank bottom.
Careful observation and a touch of creative experimentation are the keys to success with this African beauty.
A real Aquatic Pet: The Oscar
The Oscar (Astronotus Ocellatus) is more than just another big cichlid. This fish makes an excellant choice for new experiences with aquarium fish. One of the most intelligent of tropical species, the oscar quickly gets to know its owner and can even be taught simple tricks. It exhibits its own distinctive personality in the tank, expressing moods and opinions through its antics in the water.
The oscar has a reputation for unusual behavior. Unlike many other species, this fish takes an active interest in the world outside the aquarium and will swim around excitedly when anyone enters the room. Most hobbyists find that the oscar takes a special notice of its owner, streaking to the front of the tank and hovering up and down with rapt attention when the owner is near. The fish also responds vigorously the the environment around it, including music, lighting, and any kind of movement in the room. With behavior like this, it is easy to see why many hobbyists become become very attached th their oscars. More than ant other species, this fish encourages a warm personal relationship between pet and owner.
Sometimes, however, this warm relationship can boil over into good old-fashioned anger at some of the oscar's peculiar "tricks". One of these is jumping. Oscars are quite adept at this and can actually knock off an aquarium cover if it is not securely fastened. There is also a problem with objects in the tank. Plants are totally out of the question, as the oscar, in true cichlid fashion, quickly uproots them. Oscars frequently dig deep pits in the aquarium gravel. And more than one hobbyist has reported that his oscar developed a grudge against the tank heater and succeeded in smashing it. Fortunately, an occurance such as this is rare.
Although keeping an oscar does present a few difficulties, this fish is actually very easy to care for. It will eat almost anything, including ground beef, raw liver, chopped garden worms and all kinds of dry and freeze-dried foods. Live food is beneficial but not absolutely neccessary. Oscars are very tolerant in regard to water conditions and will thrive in water anywhere between 72-78 degrees. This fish should be kept individually or in mated pairs, in big, unplanted aquaria. Large flat stones and the coarser grades of aquarium gravel are suitable for the tank bottom.
Though the oscar is not known for its beauty, some varieties can be very attractive. The young normally undergo a number of dramatic color changes as they mature. They grow rapidly, attaining lengths of as much as 13 inches. Breeding mature oscars generally persents few problems. Spawning proceeds in the usual cichlid matter, with the eggs being laid on a smooth, clean stone and the young hatching in three to four days.
Raising an oscar can be a truly unique experience for the aquarist. This intelligent and active cichlid literally thrives on human attention. Though the hobbyist may find the oscar exasperating at times, the hobbyist will never be bored by this lovable aquatic pet.
Angelfish - Queen of the Cichlids
At one time, the Angelfish was known as the "King of the cichlids," but this royal title was abdicated after the first importation of Discus. Nevertheless, the abdication was not complete. The gentle, flowing lines and regal bearing of the Angelfish soon gave it the newer title of "Queen of the Cichlids."
The history of the Angelfish is an interesting one and goes back to the last century. The original Angel Pterophyllum Scalare was described in 1823 by Lichtenstein. Its first record in the aquarium hobby goes back at least to 1911 when the fish was first imported into Germany. For 13 years, there was little success in breeding it. Suddenly, in 1924, a new Angel was imported which proved easy to propagate. This Angel was imported by the well-known German ichthyologist, Dr. Ernst Ahl, and was given the name Pterophyllum Eimekei. It was named for William Eimeke, a Hamburg dealer who was the first to import the fish. At the time, it was thought that P. Eimekei was a smaller fish which was sufficiently different from P. Scalare to warrant its own species designation. Meanwhile, P. Scalare disappeared from the aquarium scene. Subsequently, it was thought that all Angels, both tank-raised and wild, were P. Eimekei. It was not until the late 1940's that questions were raised regarding the validity of the separate species. Finally, in 1967, it was determined that P. Eimekeiwas merely a variant form of P. Scalare. The official name of the common Angelfish is, therefore, Pterophyllum Scalare. The latin word Pterophyllum means "winged leaf," a descriptive term which certainly characterizes the Angelfish in accurate detail. Although other species of Angelfish have been named (P. Altum and P. Dumerilli) their validity remains in doubt.
The first Angelfish to reach the United States came from Germany in 1915. Prices varied, but a adult pair cost at least $75.00. This was no small sum to pay, and Angels were strictly oddities which only the very rich could afford. Until the smaller P. Eimekei was imported, few Americans were able to spawn the Angelfish. As more and more hobbyists bred the fish, it gained in popularity. Today, the Angelfish is certainly the most commonly seen species of cichlid in the aquarium. It is also the most varied since years of crossbreeding and inbreeding have produced a bewildering range of color varieties of the original Silver Angel.
Mutations did not begin to appear until the early 1950's. In 1953, a half-black Angelfish was developed by an aquarium firm in Dusseldorf, Germany. Angelfish with a very dark background were developed by a Florida fish farm (H. Woolf & Son) about the same time. Instead of working with the fish, the farm sold their stock to hobbyists throughout the country. By 1955, the black Angel had appeared in several places. These fish proved to be difficult to spawn and were quite inferior in health and reproductive capacity to the Silver Angel. Still, they were a sensation in the hobby and brought premium prices. In 1956, Tropicarium Frankfurt (Germany) discovered a single Angelfish mutation which led to the development of the Veiltail Angelfish. These fish appeared in the United States in 1958 and were immediately crossed with Black Angelfish to produce Black Veiltails. Soon, Blacklace Veiltails and Silver-lace Veiltails were developed.
The first marbelized Angel appeared in 1963, but the strain was not sufficiently fixed, and it died out. In 1969, Charles Ash released his version of this color variety and called it the Marble Angel. It was an instant hit and remains quite popular today. Another variety of Angel is the Blushing Angel which was developed in Connecticut in early 1965. This variety has proven to be rather delicate, but not nearly as much so as the Black Angel. The Marble Angel, on the other hand, is an extremely hardy fish which is second in popularity only to the Silver Angel.
Early 1970 saw the first offering of the Gold Angel, a fish developed by Carl Naja of Milwaukee. This fish was obtained through constant backcrossing over many generations. The original mutant came from a spawn of Blacklace Angels. Strangely enough, in 1966, a fish known as the Golden Marble Angel was produced by Lakeland Fish Hatcheries in Florida. This fish also came from Blacklace stock, but it was not successfully propagated. The primary drawback to the Gold Angel was that the gold coloration did not develop until the fish was 3 to 6 months old. Up until this point, the fish resembled a wash-out Silver Angel with a slightly green cast. Eventually, another strain of Gold Angel was developed which displayed the gold color virtually from birth. Both types have been available for many years.
Discus - King of the Cichlids
Ever since Discus were introduced into this country in the early 1930's, they have been a sought after "prize" among aquarists. The subtle, but beautiful colors, regal bearing, and distinctive shape set this fish apart from other tropical aquarium fish. The Discus is not a simple fish to keep, but with the proper care and attention, it is not a difficult one either. The challenge of keeping this rather demanding fish in good condition is one of the many reasons for its continued popularity.
When buying your first Discus, it is recommended that you buy young fish, rather than adults, both for the price difference and because fish that grow up in the same environment tend to be less nervous, eat better, and show their colors more fervently. It is also a distinct advantage, especially to the novice Discus owner, to buy tank-raised fry. If the fry are from a local area with similar water conditions, they will adapt to the new owner's aquarium much easier. This will help to prevent hunger strikes due to changed environments, i.e., from a jungle stream to the aquarium. A water conditioner will help the fishes health during periods of transition.
If you are considering the Discus as an addition to your fish collection and have had no previous experience with this fish, you should make careful considerations. Discus are not impossible or even extremely difficult to raise, but they are demanding in the environmental conditions they require. The aquarist must be willing to provide these conditions on a continual basis or he will probably meet with failure. A "part-time" aquarist will have a difficult time with Discus.
To do well, Discus require a fair amount of space. They are rather large for aquarium fish, 4 inches to 6 inches long and 8 to 10 gallons of water for each adult fish is a good average. his would mean a 50 gallon aquarium for 4 or 5 adults. Commercial breeders often keep their "pairs" in 20 gallon tanks, but this is a minimum because space is at a premium for most breeders. Choose a suitable location for the aquarium that is not in the main flow of traffic through the house. To reduce the chance of frightening the fish, a background should be placed on the back of the aquarium along with covering on one or possibly both ends. Thought should be given when decorating a Discus tank. Discus tend to be nervous and sudden unexpected movements can send them dashing about the aquarium. Hard objects, especially those with sharp or ragged edges, should be kept to a minimum or eliminated entirely. A much better choice in decorations would be plants, whether live or plastic. Tall plants such as Vallinsneria, Amazon Swords (Echinordorus Panicilatus), Cabomba and Sagittaria are all good choices. All of these will give the fish security and the live plants will also help maintain a balanced aquarium.
If you desire a decorative aquarium in which to house your Discus, gravel will be essential. Use only a natural or an epoxy-coated, non-toxic gravel which will not give off harmful minerals. Wash it thoroughly and place it in the aquarium to a depth of about 3 inches. If your main interest is the fish, and not the overall appearance of the aquarium,, then the recommended procedure is to use no gravel at all. This improves the ease of tank maintenance which is an important aspect of Discus keeping. For this reason, commercial breeders do not use gravel.
Discus are native to the quiet backwaters of the Amazon, and its tributaries. The water in these areas, due to decomposing vegetation, is soft and slightly acid. Because of the waters slow movement, it is also fairly warm, 83 - 86 degrees. For fish from these areas to do well in an aquarium, you should attempt to duplicate their original environment. Slightly acid to neutral water (pH of 6.6 to 7.0) with a total hardness that does not exceed 75 ppm, (DH of 4.2) will provide the best results. Discus have been known to breed in much harder water, but problems usually increase with the rise in pH and hardness.
Good aeration and filtration is essential in all fish keeping, especially in keeping Discus. Particulate matter suspended in the water should be kept to a minimum. An outside power filter with the outlet adjusted to provide maximum aeration and minimum current within the tank is recommended. The addition of airstones will create enough current to keep the temperature even throughout the aquarium and help remove dissolved gasses. Even with good filtration, the water should be changed on a regular basis. A 25% water change once a week is considered the minimum amount of change needed for Discus. There are plenty of community tanks which include Discus, but community tanks are not recommended for them. Discus are slow, rather dainty eaters, and fast, aggressive eaters consume all the food. For this reason, the Discus does not always get along well in community tanks with other species.
If you want to keep the Discus with other fish, choose co-inhabitants carefully. They must be able to withstand the higher temperatures required by the Discus and should not be too aggressive in their eating habits. Clown Loaches (Botia Macrantha), Rams (Apistogramma Ramirezi), Tetras (Hyphessobrycon species), and all species of Corydoras catfish would be good choices.
Most fish will begin to pair off and exhibit spawning behavior once certain requirements as to water quality, temperature, and physical surroundings are met. Discus are no exception to this. In fact they seem just as happy and willing to spawn in a bare undecorated aquarium as they do in a well-planted naturally appearing one. The chemical makeup of their surroundings is more important than the physical environment. As with the majority of Cichlids, it is usually better to let the Discus pick mates for themselves. Several adults place in a large aquarium will usually produce the desired results. Pairs will pull away from the group and keep to themselves. If you would like to try breeding these fish, the pair should be removed to a 20-30 gallon tank. After they settle down, courtship behavior should resume. The male, frquently the more colorful of the pair, will display for the female, flaring and quivering his fins. Discus spawning rituals are not usually as rough as most of the other cichlids. Eggs are laid in evenly spaced rows on vertical objects, such as wide-leafed plants, a piece of slate, or siphon tube. The fry, once they are free swimming (approximately 3 days at 84 degrees) subsist on the slime secretion of their parents. Although formulas have been developed to replace the parental slime, the "real thing" is the best and results in a faster growth rate in the fry. Since the fry must be left with the parents in order to feed them their slime, this is where most problems arise in raising Discus. If conditions are not to their liking, the parents will eat their young. Sometimes, after 4 or 5 failures, fry-rearing proceeds normally. But some never succeed. If your pair falls into this second group, there are a few things that might be tried to encourage them to raise their fry. The pH and /or hardness of the water can be checked and perhaps altered slightly. Any big change can cause serious problems with the fish. Also, the pair's physical surroundings can be rearranged. Add more cover, either by way of covering more of the aquarium, or by the addition of more plants to give them additional security. Some pairs, no matter what is tried never seem to get the "hang of it". For these pairs, the best thing is probably to separate the two and attempt to re-mate them with others. If this is the only pair available, then the fry must be raised by the aquarist. A task such as this will require quite a bit of time and devotion, so be prepared. The hobbyist should do a bit of research to learn the best methods of raising Discus fry.
The fry will begin to take small organisms such as baby brime shrimp after their 4th to 5th day of free swimming. Growth is very rapid, up to 1/2 inch long in two weeks or so. The sight of the fry clustered around the parents is enough to make all of the work and worry well worth the effort. By then, you will have joined the ranks of the Discus breeder.
Cichlids for the Beginner
The beginning aquarist often maintains a community tank as his first experience in tropical fish keeping. His desire, usually, is to collect as many different types of fish as possible. If he plans to add Cichlids to this tank, he must make his selections carefully. Most Cichlids are not suited for the communiuty aquarium due to their large size, aggressive temperament, or special requirements. A perfect solution to this problem is to set up a atnk only for a specific group of Cichlids.
Each tank should be prepared according to the needs and habits of each Cichlid species he plans to keep. The hobbyist may choose from the following groups:
(1)small, South American Cichlids (commonly called Dwarf Cichlids
(2)medium-sized Central amd South American Cichlids
(3)African Rift Lake Cichlids
(4)African Riverine Cichlids
(5)Asian Cichlids
(6)community tank Cichlids The larger species of Central and South American Ciclids are not included in this list because these fish are poor choices for a tank containing mixed Cichlids species. Eventually, they would outgrow their tankmates and begin harrassing them.
The typical comminity tank is a beautiful balance of plant and animal life. Normally, every plant is carefully selected and situated in the tank. Gravel is always level and often terraced. Everything has its place. This degree of orderliness is rarily exhibited in a Cichlid community tank. Plants are frequently uprooted and often eaten. Cichlids like to dig in the gravel and move it from one place to another. They erect large mounds which may surround pits in which spawning activities take place. When keeping most Cichlids, the hobbyist must be prepared for this type of activity. Adequate preparation of each type of Cichlid tank will greatly affect the final tank setup and subsequent alternations made by the inhabitants. Bearing this in mind, the following recommendations should be thoughtfully considered and carefully implemented.
When keeping Cichlids, the most important consideration must be maintaining each fish in good physical and psychological condition. These fish are highly intelligent and display an advanced degree of parental care techniques which demand certain provisions to keep the fish happy. Every fish in the aquarium is influenced by natural instincts such as feeding, safety, and reproduction. Cichlids seem to spend a majority of their time with reproductive behavior. Almost every spare moment is spent fighting, mock-fighting, courting, or spawning. Arguments ensue - between males, females, and members of the opposite sex. These arguments can carry over to fish in the tank other than Cichlids. If fighting between fish is to be avoided (or held to a minimum), the aquarist may do one of several things:
(1)select only young fish for the community Cichlid tank. Such fish have not reached sexual maturity and will be less apt to damage each other if fighting breaks out. As the fish reach maturity, it may be necessary to remove them to tanks of their own
(2)select only one male of each species. With this male, either one or several females may be kept. This will eliminate fighting between rival males of the same species
(3)select only one fish of each species. Since there is less fighting between fish of different species, this will reduce the chances for mayhem. It will,however, deprive the hobbyist of viewing normal, male-female relationships
(4)select several adults of each species and place them together As it becomes apparent that certain fish will not make good community tank members, they should be removed. After sufficient culling has taken place, tank conditions shouild become stable.
Cichlids of the genera Apistogramma, Crenicara, and Nannacara are commonly known as Dwarf Cichlids. While this term is technically inaccurate, it does describe the size of these fish rather well. Many species attain a maximum size of only 2 1/2 inches, and the largest are slightly under 4 inches. Obviously, these fish can be maintained in rather small tanks. A single pair or trio would do well in a 5 or 10 gallon tank, and a community grouping could be kept in a 20 gallon tank. Always allow 2-3 gallons of water for each fish.
These small Cichlids do not eat plants, and they rarely dig up gravel. Their community tank can be one of great beauty with heavily planted thickets of various water plants. It is advisable to place several flower pots, both in reclining and upright positions, in the aquarium. These are staked out by the various males, and only selected females are allowed to enter. Soft, acid water (pH=6.6-6.8) and temperatures of 70-76 degrees are required. Those species best kept at higher temperatures include Apistogramma Ramirezi, Crenicara Filamentosa, Crenicara Maculata, and Apistogramma Agassizi. Food requirements vary, but most of these fish will accept flake and frozen foods. It is suggested that live foods be part of the normal diet.
In South and Central America, the medium-sized Cichlids are primarily members of the genera Cichlasoma, Aequidens, and Geophagus. A maximum size of 8 inches is common among these fish, and it is frequently exceeded by many species. An aquarium of at least 30 gallon capacity is necessary to maintain even the smaller species. For the larger species, a 50 gallon tank is recommended. Allow 4 to 5 gallons of water for each fish. Water conditions are little problem for these fish, and they are highly adaptable to whatever conditions prevail. There is little use in keeping plants in the tank with these Cichlids. Not only will thye uproot them, but they will eat any soft-leafed plants and even the roots of hard-leafed plants. Gravel will constantly be moved, and small rocks and ornaments will be displaced. In a case like this, the aquarist must draw solace from the creative abilities which his fish display.
Feeding is no problem, wih flake foods, frozen foods, earthworms, beef heart, and tubifex worms all being greedily accepted. When breeding behavior manifests itself, these fish will frequently stake out certain parts of the aquarium and allow no other fish to enter. Territorial disputes will occur and the aquarist must take care that no single fish is seriously injured. It is a good idea to include several flower pots in the decor. Also, caves may be constructed from rocks. This is particularly suitable for the Aequidens species which seem to prefer hiding and spawning in cave-like structures.
The African Rift Lakes are located in East Africa, They are a series of very deep, alkaline lakes in which 90% or more of the biomass is composed of Cichlid species. Over 2/3 of the Cichlid genera in the world are to be found in Lakes Malawi and Tanganyika. Evolutionary trends in these lakes led to a predominence of Cichlids. There is a Cichlid to fill virtually every ecological niche in the lakes from shallow shore waters to pelagic depths. In Lake Malawi, all Cichlids species are mouthbrooders. Fish in Lake Tanganyika exhibit both substrate and mouthbrooding modes of reproduction. While there are several other rift lakes, almost all rift lake Cichlids in the aquarium hobby come from these two lakes. Most rift lake Cichlids are the smaller species which frequent rocky in-shore areas. They require a great amount of rock structure in their aquarium. Rocks may be piled to the water's surface to allow the fish to utilize every bit of available space. The pH of the rift lakes ranges from 8.2 to 9.0. There are many dissolved minerals in the water, especially sodium, magnesium, and calcium. In order to simulate these conditions, a teaspoon of marine salt per gallon should be added to the water. Gravel made of dolomite or calcite may also be used to maintain a high pH. The temperature should range between 78-84 degrees. Many Malawi Cichlids are algae-eaters, so it is beneficial to allow a thick layer of algae to grow on the rocks and sides of the tank.
African Cichlids not indigenous to the rift lakes vary considerably in size, habitat, and temperament. They include many species of Tilapia, and such well-known aquarium fish as the Buffalo-head(Steatocranus Casuarius), the Jewel Fish(Hemiphaplochromis Multicolor), and the Kribensis(Pelvicachromis Pulcher). There are approximately 30 species of kribensis-like fish which can be placed together in the Cichlid community tank. These fish are rather peaceful, do not eat plants, and dig very little in the aquarium. Other types of African Cichlids should not be mixed with these. Cichlids from the Congo River and Stanley Pool may be kept together although they will be rather scrappy. These include such species as Nannochromis Nudiceps, Steatocranus Casuarius, Lamprologus Congolensis and Leptotilapia Tinanti. Both groups of riverine fish can be maintained in water with pH values from 6.8 to 7.2. The temperature should be 78-80 degrees. A 30 to 50 gallon tank is recommended, with 3 to 4 galons of water designated for each fish. Most Tilapia species are not suitable community residents since they grow to rather large sizes.
Excluding a few species of Tilapia, there are only two species of Cichlids indigenouis to the Asian continent. These are the Orange Cromide, Etroplus Maculatus, and the Green Chromide, Etroplus Suratensis. They live in the coastal waters of southern India and Ceylon. These areas are quite brackish and in the aquarium, hard, alkaline water is necessary. Two teaspoons of marine salt per gallon of water is recommended for them.
The possibility of mixing Cichlids of the various types from the different areas in one aquarium is an intriguing experiment. It should not be undertaken except by an experienced aquarist who has made adequate provisions for unsuspected results. The exceptions to this rule are the few species of Cichlids which can be kept in the general community aquarium. All of these are basically peaceful fish which do little physical damage to the aquarium or its occupants. They also require only basic water conditions which are present in the average home aquarium. A list of these fish follows.
(1)Aequidens Curviceps - Flag Cichlid
(2)Aequidens Hercules - Hercules Cichlid
(3)Aequidens Maronii - Keyhole Cichlid
(4)Aequidens Portalegrensis - Port Cichlid
(5)Apistogramma Ramirezi - Ram
(6)Chromidotilapia Guentheri - Guenther's Moothbrooder
(7)Cichlasoma Meeki - Firemouth Cichlid
(8)Cichlasoma Nigrofasciatum - Convict Cichlid
(9)Cichlasoma Severum - Severum
(10)Cichlasoma Spilurum - Blue-eyed Cichlid
(11)Geophagus Brasilensis - Pearl Cichlid
(12)Haplochromis Burtoni - Burton's Mouthbrooder
(13)Hemihaplochromis Multicolor - Dwarf Egyptian Mouthbrooder
(14)Nannacara Anomala - Golden-eyed Dwarf Cichlid
(15)Pelvicachromis Pulcher - Kribensis
(16)Pelvicachromis Taeniatus - Spot-tailed Kribensis
(17)Hemichromis Thomasi - Thomas' Cichlid
(18)Pterophyllum - (all varieties) - Angelfish The selection of a filter for the Cichlid community tank is a simple task. With the exception of the small South American Cichlids, every tank should be equipped with an outside power filter. Cichlids are dirty fish, and they require well-aerated and well-filtered water. An air-stone must be used in all tanks, and two stones are indicated for tanks larger than 30 gallons which are expected to carry a large volumne of fish.
