Latest Diary Entry - May 10, 2004
Gamurra
Below are my inspirations for the gamurra/underdress. The Gamurra Project has taken on a life of its own and now I want to make tons of gamurras. I still want to make my dream dress (both incarnations of it) but I want lots of gamurras in different colors, with different sleeves and different necklaces. Sometimes fancy hair, sometimes with a coif. I'm getting just a tad obsessed.
 |
 |
 |
| Portrait of a Lady Ghirlandaio c.1480 Clark Art Institute Williamstown, MA |
Portrait of a Girl Ghirlandaio c.1490 National Gallery London |
A Young Woman Ghirlandaio c.1485 Metropolitan Museum of Art New York |
 |
 |
|
| Portrait of a Woman Botticelli c.1475 Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Palatina Florence |
Costanza Caetani Fra Bartolommeo c.1480-90 London National Gallery of Art |
 |
Back view of woman sitting from Ghirlandaio's 1482-90 The Preaching of St. John Neck is v-shaped and seam appears to be side back. |
| From Ghirlandaio's 1490 Portrait of a Girl (seen above) You can see the seam placement is side back if you look under the arm. At first I thought this was back lighting, but the rest of that side of the body does not appear to be back lit. |
 |
Skirt
I have discovered that the dress opening extends past the waist into the skirt. Which makes sense if you want to be able to step into the dress and get the bodice up past your hips. Especially my hips. Even in dresses where it looks like there is no opening in the skirt, more than likely the opening is hidden in the folds.
 |
Francesco Cossa Allegory of April: Triumph of Venus 1476-84 |
| Fra Bartolommeo Costanza Caetani 1480-1490 Notice how the opening extends below the belt. |
 |
I'm trying to decide if I should gather or box pleat the skirt. There seems to be evidence for both.
 |
Francesco Cossa Allegory of April: Triumph of Venus 1476-84 Box Pleats |
 |
From 1491. More evidence of box pleats |
Gamurra - On to the fitting of the bodice
1488 Italian
Dress
Camicia -
Gamurra -
Maniche -
Fazzoletto -
Giornea -
Hair and Make-up -
Cuffia -
Stockings -
Scarpette -
Jewelry
Male
Shirt -
Underwear - Farsetto - Maniche - Calze - Giornea - Scarpette - Hat - Accessories
