My mind has been pre-occupied this summer by the past and future of my beloved breed. On one hand I have been preparing for the 50th anniversary of my UKC affiliated Illinois Toy Fox Terrier Association. On the other hand I have been thinking of what I might write in this newsletter for my new club, the American Toy Fox Terrier Club. Nostalgia and excitement have dominated my emotions as I have looked back to the future of Toy Fox Terriers.

THE PAST
I recently uncovered a cache of black and white negatives for shows held by the Illinois TFTA in the years 1952-54. After having them developed, I was impressed by the formal attire of the exhibitors- women in long skirts and dresses- some with hats; men sported ties and coats. I did wince a bit when I looked down at their exhibits on the floor.

While the official line at UKC was that the breed was descended from the standard Fox Terrier by breeding the smallest and/or runts to each other, the old breeders still around when I started in 1970 admitted that some short cuts were taken. The AKC standard does acknowledge that other toy breeds (including the Chihuahua and Toy Manchester) were used to reduce the size of the smaller Fox Terriers of that day (any wonder that the Toy Fox Terrier was a natural moniker?). Some of those small Fox Terriers may have looked like the standard version of today while others looked more like the black and white terriers that populated the farms of that time. Loosely branded "Rat" terriers because of their "job" on the farm, they were a larger, not very stylish canine with great instinct, intelligence, and personality. I have one such dog pictured on my website. It was the dog of my dad's boyhood whose exploits caused me to become involved in "toy terriers".

The TFTs of 1952, just 3 years after the formation of the National TFTA, bore the evidence of their miniaturization. Many of them bear a striking resemblance to the Chihuahuas of today. I love Chihuahuas as a breed, but today even a casual observer would be able to discern that the two breeds do not resemble each other only to the extent that they are two companion breeds in the Toy Group. The pictures of these 1952 TFTs show very diminutive dogs with names like Tiny and Mite to complement their stature or lack there of. The UKC standard's lower weight limit is 3 and ½ pounds and one seldom sees them near that weight. However, in 1952 (and I believe the limit was 3 pounds) one can imagine that there were many near that limit. I imagine 6-7 inch shoulder measurements would be appropriate. The heads were domed-apple heads with ears lopping off the side of the head. Eyes were bulging and muzzles were narrow and short. Bodies were barreled, short-backed with little tuck up and low tail sets. Black dominated color patterns and wide blazes were common. Many were so out at the elbows, the front feet met, forming a triangle.

In short the sizing down of the Fox Terrier drastically affected type in the early days of organized conformation shows. In fact, as late as the mid-fifties, Dr. Fuhrman, owner of UKC, was calling for an end to inter- breeding and a reporting of offenders.

By the time I joined the fancy in 1970, the breed had changed significantly. A medium sized dog weighing 5 -7 pounds and measuring 9 -11 inches had replaced the small sized TFTs. The older style breed type had been replaced by a leggier, longer-bodied version. Heads were longer, more balanced, refined with a slightly rounded skull, higher ear set, and a muzzle with enough fill under the eye to taper wedge-like to the nose. White now dominated body color with many all white-bodied entries. Ticking, though not preferred, was not particularly discriminated against-Ward Shumaker once told me that breeders in Pennsylvania referred to them as dollar spots, since puppy buyers liked them. No tan and whites would be shown for another decade. The tail reflected the personality of the dogs- the more wired, the farther that tail might stretch across the back- squirrel fashion. These dogs were not as retiring as their earlier counterparts and judges would bring them out on the floor to react to one another. I hesitate to call it sparring as there were no growls or dogs being pulled apart. Instead it was a way to see the animated dog-ears and tail up, up on the toes, ready to go. Exhibitors often cooperated by turning their dogs toward one that was not showing especially well. It was a win/win- both dogs looked better.

Those were the days of 40-50 dog entries and large kennels with entries in almost every class. Breeders would travel halfway across country to exhibit at one show per weekend on Sunday. As exhibitors arrived on Saturday, the motels became a school for someone interested in TFTs. Doors to motel rooms would be left open, open house style, so that one could wander in for a sandwich or an ear of sweet corn and talk TFTs. I felt privileged as a novice to be able to interact with those who had been architects of the breed and were still exhibiting at that point: Carl and Violet Rinebold, Howard and Doris Currens, Francis and Ted Baughman, Mac and Irene McKenzie, Ward and Marie Shumaker, Red and Shirley Srygler, Betty McMillin, Ima Parsons, Shirley Thompson, Phil and Eliza Hopkins, and Rollie and Bernice McDermitt. Not many of these breeders are still with us, but I would be remiss without recognizing that each in some way mentored me when I was new to the breed. Before or after a show, they made one feel welcome and prepared you for the show, but inside the ring, it was every man or woman for him/her self-the competition was extremely stiff.

THE PRESENT

I used to show my college students a film that discussed art as communication. In one cartoon a man is observing an abstract painting of a face. Seeing only the back of his head, he said," I don't know much about art- all I know is what I like." He turns to face the camera and his face is a mirror image of the painting. The point is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder and that the personal experiences we have shape how we see the world and appreciate beauty.

I hope you understand that the type of dog that was prevalent when I entered the breed is the type I still champion today. I often advise novices that in the typical litter of three, there will likely be a larger and smaller pup and one in between. It is this latter, medium size pup, that I advise to evaluate for show. I usually will have a hunch (Gr. Ch. Meadowood's Gotta Notion was aptly named) at 8 weeks and retain the youngster for continuous evaluation till 6 months of age. The larger pup will often attract attention because of his dominance and because he will be the first to look like an adult. If one glances down the good bone of the front legs, you will also see the big feet that foreshadow the larger dog. The small pup is often the "People's Choice" -cute, cuddly or perhaps feisty; any of these 3 qualities make a great pet, but not necessarily a show dog. It is so much more difficult to breed the excellent five-pound dog as opposed to the 6-7 pound dog. To be fair there are some good, small ones being shown, but the effects of diminution too often appear-namely the rounded skull, short muzzle, protruding eye, and short neck. Our standard is clear on these four qualities.

I will offer this caveat, however. I have had small puppies that have grown to be medium sized dogs and have had large puppies that simply quit growing at 8 weeks. I know there are those who claim the talent of predicting show quality from the moment of birth and sell puppies as show quality at 8 weeks of age. Alas, I do not have such a gift. Puppies not only grow at different rates, but they change physically almost daily. I will not embarrass myself by telling you how many of my so -called pet puppies have returned to Meadowood for a visit as adults who could win top honors anywhere, but their only BIS will be Best In Sofa.

As to color, I pretty much let the spots fall where they may. Frankly, I think color is the least of our problems in this breed and I hate to see an otherwise excellent representative of the breed lose to an inferior specimen based upon a minor color fault. Do we really believe that color that descends a half-inch beyond the elbow is going to be replicated in that dog's progeny? Although the body is to be over 50% white, how closely are we to cull those who are 50/50? It is my opinion that a breeder needs to occasionally add more pigment to his lines by breeding to some of those with lots of shiny black and deep rich tan. My experience has been that generations of mostly or all white bodies will lead to adults that gray too early. I do not discriminate against fading or graying in the older TFT in the ring. I think it is important that we see how adult dogs hold up over time. Additionally, I don't understand how we can decry ticking when it is so terrier and the Fox Terrier often has it to a great degree.

The silhouette that I look for is probably predictable by now. I want a headpiece evenly balanced between skull and muzzle placed upon a gracefully arched neck. The neck should blend smoothly into a level topline with a high set tail at the end. Underneath, the brisket meets at the elbows and a pronounced tuck up accentuates a well-muscled rear assembly. The dog appears square.

On the table I approach slowly from the front, let the TFT smell my hand, and speak a friendly word. TFTs may be the world's worst table breed. Be it training, socialization, or inherent stubbornness, upclose inspection is seldom as gratifying as seeing the breed move in action. If an entry appears especially stressed, I will examine the bite last. I do look at the head first and prefer a long, elegant head with an almost level space between high set ears- better that ears be large than too small. I then check the bone and straightness of the front legs, the layback of the shoulders, and run my hand along the topline to the tail and brisket to tuckup. The shoulder blade should slope at a 45-degree angle, if the dog is standing with the feet directly under the center of the blade. This angle is 2 ½ times more efficient than a 60-degree angle in lifting the front for locomotion. The topline, while appearing level, should slope at a 30 degree angle to the pelvis; this allows the dog to get its feet in under it and turn quickly. The upper thighbone is not often set on at a 90-degree angle to the pelvis, but the more angulation here the better in delivering power to the rear end. The well-bent stifle may be the most important part of the rear assembly, with propulsion depending on a straight line of bone, turning neither in or out. I am one of those judges that often check the feet of working dogs. The compact foot with hard, cushioned pads is able to consistently take the shock of contact with the ground. Flat or splayed feet may be evidence that the pad is not falling beneath the shoulder properly. If the feet break down on working dogs, they should be faulted. Finally, I check the muscling of the rear assembly. I then check coat texture and length.

A word about bites-scissors! Can you imagine trying to cut something with a scissors that had blades that met rather than overlapped? The level bite is simply not efficient. In my opinion more breeders have gotten themselves in a bind by accepting bad bites on otherwise worthy specimens than any other structural fault. Bad bites are so heritable that the impact of one bad bite will soon affect an entire breeding colony. My advice would be to spay/neuter the dog with an incorrect bite and to not repeat that breeding again. In my own kennel, I would likely retire such breeding stock.

Off the table I like to see a TFT who moves like a big dog- no mincing steps here. This is not a velvet pillow breed - it is a go-to-ground, varmint-hunting animal. Therefore, front legs should reach out as if to pull ground beneath the dog and the back should reach beneath the abdomen and propel the dog forward. In this article I will not enumerate the myriad gait faults and why they occur. However, the canine hackney gait (the hackney pony gait is different) does deserve some attention. I would assume that hackney refers to the gait of the Min Pin, a very showy, high stepping swinging upward of the front legs. Many TFTs do elevate the front legs to a degree, but should never to the extent as seen in the Min Pin. Such movement is without a doubt inefficient, but I believe the extent of the "lift" would have to be taken into account to determine whether the gait was truly a hackney gait to be faulted.

Suffice it to say that it is one thing to pose a dog correctly and quite another for the dog to move correctly. Static pictures of posed dogs can show us the silhouette I referred to earlier, but I would honestly rather see the dog posing itself on a loose lead. I recently hit heads with an exhibitor of a larger breed as she rushed to put a leg back in place as I examined her dog. If only she had known that I was going to be more interested in how her dog set itself up as it returned to me after gaiting than in her artificially placing the legs correctly.

I feel correct terrier temperament is so important that I am willing to accept a little less showmanship and a little more terrier. I would like to think that should a rat try to cross the ring, the terriers would reduce it to shreds. I like the TFT that is cocky and wired as he /she moves about the ring. The head, ears, and tail are up as he/she looks for some action. Even though the TFT moves with tail up, nothing looks worse than a terrier standing with its tail down; that round rump look just ruins the silhouette. I know many of mine are quite OK outside the ring but simply do not like being on the road and/or showing. Unfortunately, judges do not make house calls! It is so much easier to begin with one with the wired personality than it is to figuratively or sometimes literally drag one around the ring.

THE FUTURE

As I look ahead, I feel strongly about the following:

Protect the Breed:

Screen, Screen, Screen. Many breeders are receiving inquiries from people that want to buy breeding stock to prepare for a perceived demand as we, at last, enter the AKC ring for points. One was honest enough to reveal that he wanted to be in on the ground floor. Not everyone will be as upfront- instead asking to buy ONLY a pet and then objecting to spay/neutering conditions for purchase. One of the benefits in having puppy purchasers in your home is that you can make the decision as to whether they are ALLOWED to get a puppy. Check references, go to their home, meet everyone in the family, call their vet, do whatever needs to be done to document their motives.

Show stock has to be placed just as carefully. That puppy will continue to represent you for years in the ring and afterward in the breeding pen- yet you have lost real control. But rest assured that you will receive "credit" if things don't work out! Contract that dogs must be returned to you only. Consider co-ownerships with those you really trust. Yes, co-owns can sour a relationship and you may have to exercise your legal rights in court, but you still can assert control.

Breed Selectively:

Do you have a breeding plan? How does each breeding lead to the achievement of your breeding plan? Frankly, I think there are some breeders with too many dogs breeding too many puppies. They play genetic roulette to produce enough puppies so that they can get a few good ones to show. Contrast this with small, carefully planned programs where only the best is bred to the best (and not all champions are bred). Those selected are bred to complement the strengths and weaknesses of dog and bitch, bloodlines are studied and matched for maximum quality, and the phenotype and genotype of each individual in the pedigree is known. Such breeders do not need to produce masses of puppies to compete. This is so different than the breeder whose only plan is to breed each female once per year regardless of need.

I am very uncomfortable with the commercialization of our breed by those who should be most dedicated to protecting it. Impulse buying is impulse buying whether it occurs in a pet shop, on an Internet site, or in a motel " pet shop". Some "breeders" are quick to condemn backyard breeders, yet they commit the same errors.

Believe me when I say that you will never make money selling puppies if you do it right. Start with that assumption and you will not be tempted to try to finance your hobby on the backs of helpless puppies. Keeping your numbers small may also keep you in the breed longer. I can't tell you how many people have started breeding and showing, only to wear themselves out trying to care for too many dogs. Our breed is easy to "collect" because of its size, but the day to day care for several can be daunting.

Unite:

It would be a shame if old loyalties and false suspicions kept TFT breeders from uniting to show in both registries. Will you love this breed any less now that it is dual registered? Do you want to be a part of determining its destiny regardless of kennel club? The breed needs the support of new and experienced breeders as it makes its upcoming transition. Additionally, it is imperative that a strong, diverse gene pool be available in both registries. If we love this breed, we must transcend petty jealousies and egos
and unite.

Educate:

Judges are as apprehensive about judging a new breed as exhibitors to show under them. There is no magic number of dogs judged that makes a judge a competent evaluator. Although judges might know canine structure and locomotion, this in and of itself does not make him/her a good arbiter of our breed for one reason: type. Words such as "somewhat sloping", "gracefully curved", and "adequate muscle" take on meaning as scores of TFTs are passed upon. Of course, knowing the good parts of a dog still do not one a good judge unless you have that picture of what the whole dog should look like. Norman Rockwell in his book, My Adventures as an Illustrator, talked about judging the 1922 Miss America contest. The judges had no system for choosing the winner, so they devised a system to give each feature-eyes, nose, lips, etc.- and each part-legs, shoulders, neck, etc.- an ideal score of 10 points. Each contestant was graded1-10 and scores added to determine the winner. The system did not work. Rockwell wrote," A girl might not have anything wrong with her features or figure and so receive a very high score. But then she might not have anything right either. Individually her features were lovely, but put together they left us cold or bored. We found you can't judge a woman's beauty piecemeal; you have to take the whole woman at once."

Educating judges is a formidable task. It is the development of the "eye" for correct type, which will develop over time, which should be our end goal. Some judges will develop this skill more quickly than others. Patience on the part of judges and exhibitors will go a long way in easing this transition we are about to undertake.

Enjoy

Remember this is a hobby and it is supposed to be fun. Losing is not fun and I will admit that a Sunday drive home after a no win weekend is a long one. When I complained to a mentor early on about losing, he said simply, "Every dog has his day. A quality dog will be recognized eventually. You know, John, not winning, when one believes he should have, is a little easier if one concedes that he might also win occasionally when he shouldn't." I repeat those words to myself once in awhile. He was right!

In Conclusion

The headline to this article said it all. These are my opinions based upon my experiences over the past three decades. I hope other long-time breeders will take the opportunity to analyze their vision of the ideal Toy Fox Terrier. Certainly reasonable minds may differ, but hopefully our love of the Toy Fox Terrier will transcend all our differences

Dr. John F. Davidson
Meadowood
13400 N. Lakewood Dr.
Dunlap, IL 61525
(309) 243-7506
Johnfd@Hotmail.com
www.angelfire.com/il/toyfoxterrier