So, are you ready to give up the expensive and stressfully constricting confines of the automobile for the freedom and fun of a commute by bicycle?
Wise choice... now what do you do?
TO FOLD OR NOT TO FOLD: Now, your first decision: Full size or folding bicycle? This is a good question for those with no space to store a bike at home or in the office. While folding bicycles are generally not as good for long [20 miles or so] rides, especially the low-end models, as full size bicycles, a folder can be adequate and fun transportation which can be conveniently stored indoors at the office or home and can even be taken on the train, a noteworthy point for those who have a longer commute but may want to do part of it by bicycle [For my own choice I use a Dahon folding bicycle to go to work and a full size bike for around town, etc.].
If you fold: You should decide, if you fold, what sort of bike to get. The major players in this field are Brompton and Dahon, but most bike makers produce at least one folding bicylce in their lineup. Giant and Trek, both known for full-size bicycles, produce compact folding models somewhat similar in basic design to the Dahon nd Brompton. Choices will vary but the majority of such bikes will either have 20" or 16" wheels. Choosing a wheel size of preference depends on the ride quality-foldability compromise; you want a bike that is compact when folded but that rides safely and well when unfolded. The best folder in temrs of ease of folding and unfolding is the Brompton [16"]. The cheapest decent folder is probably Dahon's Boardwalk lineup [20"]. For specific info on my Dahon's setup, got HERE .
Full Size: If you go full size, consider what sort of bike you want. You should use a rack on the back of the bike, so an older road or mountainbike frame is ideal. In some ways what makes a good off-road singlespeed or fixed gear also makes a good urban bike; smaller chainring, older [rigid] frame, good brakes, wider tires.
And please, if you go full size, don't ride a full suspension bike on the street. It is as pointless as it is silly! While front fork may be helpful with extreme potholes by and large suaspension bikes -- as mountainbikes generally -- make poor road rides. If you do use a mountainbike on the street, don't use dedicated offroad-style knobby tires. And don't go full suspension -- it is inefficient and the bobbing of the frame robs you of energy. Go rigid or, if you have to get frotn suspension, make it a stiff front fork and a hardtail frame. If you feel you need rear suspension on the street, that'as what they make suspended seatposts for.
Internal gears or better yet, fixed gears, are great commuters. Even on a geared bike, a smaller chainring is good [42t] If you choose a fixed gear, try to use an older road frame with semi-horizontal or horizontal dropouts, which permit you to achieve better chain tension.
FENDERS [mudguards]: You should put fenders on your commuter. they are not only instrumental in protecting the bike and you from road grime and spray, but they make the bike look more utilitarian, and hence, less attractive to potential thieves. There are two general kinds of fenders; permanent [bolt on] and "clip on" fenders. The permanent kind are attatched via screws or bolts to the bike and require tools to remove. The clip ons are usually plastic and though they do not cover as much of the wheel as full or "permanent" fenders, they offer a decent protection against road spray, with the ability to remove them when not nooded. Usually they attached via a clip-on or quick release-type mechanism and do not require tools for removal.
LIGHT YER BIKE: It is very easy to forget once you are on a bike, but drivers often cannot see you, and are not "trained" to look for bicycles [their eyes are programmed from day one to look, primarily, for cars]. If you plan on commuting, use or carry with you bicycle lights, a red one for the bakc and a white one for the front. The lights should be bright enough to be seen from a distance, and the headlight should provide workable illumination of the road in front of you, at least enough to avoid potholes.
Light considerations: Choosing a light that is bright enuff fer the job is common sense. But what other features to look for?
You should decide off the bat if you want a generator light or a battery operated one. Generator lights are usually a bit heavier and permanently [using tools] mount to the bike. They are powered by a dynamo that either rides along the ends of a tire or [in some models] is built into the wheel.
Battery lights are smaller, lighter, and clip on and off of the bike. Vista, Planet bike, and Cateye are some of the big names in the (battery operated) light world.
LOCK YER BIKE: Most stolen bikes aren't even locked to begin with! Keep a lock with you; You'll never know when you'll need it. I use a padlock with a rubberized steel cable, but for high risk areas you may want to use a thick chain. Be sure to either invest in a rubberized chain, or wrap the chain with padding of some sort to protect your bike from dents and scratches.
Tip: mount a bell too unless you enjoy hitting haples pedestrians!
WHAT TO WEAR:
[keep in mind these are my own guidelines; you may be either braver than me, or more afraid of the cold!]
60 degrees and up: bicycle shorts and a cycling jersey, either sleeveless or w/out sleeves.
40-60 degrees: Two layers of shorts, T-shirt with fleece vest. Thin [inner] gloves.
30-40 degrees: Sweatpants over cycling shorts, thicker warm socks, jacket over t-shirt and vest. Inner and outer gloves. Ear covers under helmet.
19-30 degrees: Sweatpants with windproof outer pants over shorts, warm socks and shoe covers, T-shirt and long-sleeves fleece or sweatshirt with jacket. Inner and outer gloves and warm headcap under helmet.
When it gets below 20 degrees, I sometimes wear a ski mask to protect my face.
WATCH: Okay, you are riding your bike a lot now. Don't wanna risk mucking up your nice watch? Here's what ya' do...
If you go mechanical automatic keep to a Seiko, they can take a beating and have good lume, so you can tell the time at a glance in the dark when riding. If you want quartz w/out the hassle of batteries, get a Citizen Eco*drive. My 200m water resistant Titanium Citizen Eco*Drive has been trouble-free and works well on rides. I put it on a rubber strap and can wear it outside the sleeve in colder weather. For digital go either with a Casio G-shock, Timex Ironman, of bike specific watch like the Nike Oregon.
A WORD ABOUT HELMETS: Wear one. Helmet laws are stupid not because cyclists shouldn't wear helmets, but because it is both foolish and unecessary to try and coerce intelligent people into acting in their own self-interest. Do you WANT a cracked skull? No, then wearing a helmet is a "no-brainer"! (I actually feel uncomfortable riding sans helmet. And it has saved my noggin a few times already.) The only time I was riding w/out it [my helmet was hanging from the handlebar at the time; I took it off because it was so hot out] I crashed, and dislocated my shoulder needing costly and somewhat painful surgery. It is only through sheer luck I did not get my head caved in. I am not going to take that risk again, and you shouldn't either. If you worry about a helmet being uncomfortable int he summer, get one with a lot of vents.
Helmet fit: Make sure your helmet first correctly. If you do not know exactly what a "correct" fit is, ask the folks at the lbs (Local bike shop) to show you. Riding with a poorly fit helmet is as bad as riding without one!
YOUR BIKE'S SEAT: Most modern "road bikes" are actual "racing bikes" made in style of professional machines, with tight frame clearences, lightweight but not necessarily durable components, and very thin seats. Most folding bikes come with a smaller seat; more padded than a "racy" modern roadbike seat, but hardly designed for everyday riding, especially in all weather or over city streets. These are not the most comfortable seats,a nd you may want to swap out. You may want to put on a thicker older-style road or mountainbike seat. Be wary of "comfort" seats, however. Many of them are TOO wide and the sides of the seat will either get in the way of your thighs when pedaling, or be uncomfortable if the seat height is adjusted to proper leg extension.
What you will need to add to your bike:
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