FORDS ONLY

ROD CENTERS: A critical element in building a Ford for hi-po application is to see if the wristpin is still centered in the small end of the rod. The engine may have gone 100,000 miles like this, but it will not stand up to the stresses of high RPM acceleration. Replace any off centered rods.

SHORT DIZZY SHAFT: If you're installing a Ford Motorsport heavy duty oil pump and the recommended heavy duty intermediate shaft so that the bearing life on your late model Mustang is maxed, fitting the distributor to the intermediate shaft requires a little trick. Unaltered the base of the dizzy, interferes with the shoulder of the pump drive. To eliminate this, remove one half inch from the bottom of the distributor shaft. Make sure that the end result is staight and smooth. Actually, the machined area of the shaft ends one half inch from the end of the shaft. This makes a great guide line for your cut.

OIL PICK-UP: If you've replaced your original sump with a deeped model, it is recommended to also replace the oil pick-up with a scrren type one. CAUTION, do not use the type with a perforated piece of metal as a screen, these can drop your oil pressure as much as 10 PSI. Find a pick-up with a stainless mesh screen.

OIL GALLY PLUGS: Figure you've finished the block prep for your street brawler? Take a look at the area that would be under the timing cover when the engine is assembled. Y'see those little press-in plugs? They seal the ends of the oil galleys and they're fine for a stock app, but to insure your nice new engine won't say adios as the oil pressure plummets after the old galley plgs part company with the block, take 'em out and replace them with threaded units. Use 1/4" threaded pipe plugs. Tap the oil gallys for 1/4" pipe thread, install the threaded plugs using a little liquid Teflon.
HINT: After the tapping, don't forget to do the final wash before assembly

DIZZY GEAR SHEAR: The pitch of a Ford distributor pulls it down against the block. If gear to block clearance is incirrecr this can end up either damaging the distributor drive gear or shearing the pin that holds the gear to the drive. To help eliminate this potential problem, there should be .020-inch

STAINLESS VALVES: When you build an engine for more than just a stock grocery getter, you end up replacing original equipment with beter, tougher aftermarket items. The upshot of this of course is that for every component replaced with an aftermarket unit, the next stock piece in line becomes the next weak link. How about a set of Stainless vales? A grenaded valve can fracture the head. A set of stainless valves will be able to stand the added stress and temperatures of high RPMs.

VALVE SEATS: The old time rodders remember the days of leaded fuel, I know I do. Now there ain't none sonny. Valves like lead 'cos it acted as a lubricant b'twixt valve and seat. Run an engine, especially a hi-po unit and the valves will sink into the head and that's that. Now when you build up an older set of heads that used the leaded gas, take them to your local auto machine shop and have Nickle-Stellite seats installed. These will absorb impact without wearing down. If you want to go larger valves, this should be done at the same time. Usually the stellite seats are only installed on the exaust side Me, I like to do all the seats as a little insurance.
HINT: Make sure that your machine shop bolts a torque plate to the head when it does the seats. This stresses the head as if it was installed on the block. Without doing this concentricity of the valve seat can only be approximated.

HEAD GASKETS" LIke to use Fel-Pro gaskets? So do I, but Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal with the stainless rings around each cylinder bore (part #9280PT), are prone to static leaks on steel and alumninium heads, even when correctly tightened to 75 pounds of torque. To prevent this, use Fel-Pro's non-O-ringed gaskets (part #8548PT-1) These have been impregnated with a coating that further reduces the possibility of coolant leaks. Or, you can use Ford's graphit gasket
(part #FOZZ-6052-A).

EXAUST HEADERS: To get the most from the induction side of your engine, you need a good exaust system to scavange combustion residue. Although late model factory headers are better than a cast iron manifold, they fall short of a good set of after market units. Because after market headers are mandrel bent, the kinks that plague factory headers are eliminated and exaust flow is improved. With no other changes the addition of the aftermarket units can be worth between 10-15 HP, as breathing is improved through upgrades to the intake and cylinder heads.

LIFTER BORES; This is not your 'typical mod for most enthusiasts because it is expensive, but if you're serious about engine performance from the inside, check this out. Ford small block lifter bores should be 'trued'. In some cases they can be out far enough to vary valve timing from cylinder to cylinder 'cos the bores aren't true with the cam lobes. You can't do this at home, so it'll be five or six hours of shop time. Like I said, expensive. But if you've laid out mucho cash for new heads and a trick valvetrain, you want them to be as effective as possible, so maybe you can't afford not to. This is particularly important to Clevland owners who can increase oil pressure by reducing blow-by at the lifters.

TIMING CHAIN: To improve the cam timing in relationship the the crank, a really trick timing set to install is a Ford Dyna-Roll chain. It features a nine position multi-index crank sprocket and chain set for increased reliability and adjustability.

CAM DEGREEING: Ford Motoesport also offers a large diameter degree wheel and adaptor that willl alow you to get the most from your cam. Cams must be degreed to acuratly phase the cam to the engine.

HEAD TORQUE: The heads are all installed just right and you've just torqued down the intake, being very careful of all the torque specs. Okay, now go and re-torque the top row of head bolts, adding an extra five pounds. Pressure exerted from the intake as it is torqued down can lift the heads fractionally off the block. Adding the extra torque to the upper row of head bolts can prevent intake port leaks.

SILICONE SEALER: When selecting a silicone sealant for use on your engine, make sure that if your ride emplys an oxygen sensor that the sealant is 'oxygen sensor safe'. Vapors from the incorrect silocone can render the O2 sensor inoperative.

LATE MODEL 'STAT: Owners of late model small blocks that utilize either Speed Density or Mass Air Flow sensor fule injection, should never install anything 'colder' than a 180 degree themostat. If you do, the computer will see the engine as running cold and enrich the intake mixture to compensate. This will cause the engine to run 'fat' and performance will go down.

MUSTANG AIR BOXES: Late model Mustangs have an intake air box mounted on the right front fender. This set-up is primarily to prevent snow from blocking the air intake path. If you live in an area where snow is only a myth, remove the box and gain 5-10HP depending on the EEC fitted to the car.

EEC SWAPPING:Some late model Ford cars are rated ar 225HP and others at 200HP. Between cars with identical injection systems (some are speed/density and others are mas air)., swapping out the EEC in a 200HP rated car will give you that extra 25HP.

DRIVESHAFT LOOP: Ford's newer cougars come with a nice formed driveshaft safty loop near the rear axel assembly. Nicer looking than the flat stock after market loops ther're functional. Available at Ford dealers and wrecking yards.