Equipment

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Equipment

Once you have selected the size tank you require, the next step is to buy the equipment that you'll need. It is important that you have already chosen the size of tank, as its volume dictates the size of equipment you will need. Always ask the advice of the shop you will purchase from, as they will tell you what will be best for your tank. As I said before, buying everything you need, will cost a small fortune, but buying the right things now will save loads of money in the future. NEVER buy second hand equipment for you tank, as you will have no way of knowing if it will be faulty, and electric and water are not a good thing to risk messing with. The last thing you want is to wake up one morning to find all you fish electrocuted, or even worst only realising you have a problem once your hand is in the tank!!! The following list contains all the different things you will require:
Tank and Stand
stand is optional depending on the location you will be using. The tank should be supported by something that can easily hold its weight. When chosing a tank and stand think very carefully about where you wish to put it as once filled with water it will be impossible move.
Hood
this is often included will the tank, but if possible you want to make sure the inside is either white or another similar reflective colour, this will optimise your light.
Lighting system and Bulbs
There are plenty to chose from, your retailer will advise you on the best one for your tank. Lighting is obviously needed to see into the tank, but it is also vital for your plants it is not so much the lighting unit that is important, but rather the type of bulb you chose. Fluorescent tubes, which offer many types of light, are the most common, and there are different types depending on what they will be used for. Ask your local aquatic shop for advice.
Filter
There are commonly two types of filter you can choose from, either internal or external. Internal filters are suitable for aquariums under 150 litres. They are also cheaper to buy and maintain, but require more regular cleaning as they clog up quickly. Most internal pumps also eliminate the need for an additional air pump, as many have a ventilation system of their own that add bubbles to the water. External filters have the advantage of a large volume of filter material and do not obstruct any part of the tank. They also require less maintainance. The purpose of a filter is to keep the conditions in the tank as closely to those found in the wild as possible. The filter will maintain the nitrogen cycle that keeps the water safe for your fish, without getting too technical, this cycle roughly consists of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Ammonia is excreted by fish and aquatic animals and is extremely harmful to fish. During natural biological purification, ammonia is converted into nitrite, however this too is dangerous to fish if levels become too high. This is where the filter comes in. The bacteria which is formed on your filtration material, converts this harmful nitrites into nitrates, which are safe in levels under 50mg/1(ppm). Nitrates levels are lowered by water changes. (see maintainance section).
Heater
always choose a heater that is sufficient to heat the volume of water in your tank. Most heaters available consist of a heater-thermostat and are highly efficient and have a long life span. Most contain a coil heating element which automatically switch themselves on and off via a thermostat, to sustain the correct temperature. Always provide your aquarium with a slightly larger heater than you would first allow for, in case of any unforeseen circumstances, such as central heating failure or cold weather whilst on holiday.
Air Pumps
all fish need oxygen to live, as do plants despite what many people think. Plants only require carbon dioxide for photosynthesis (making food), they still require oxygen for respiration especially so at night, when photosynthesis ceases. Therefore most aquariums have an air pump. These usually produce bubbles via an air-stone. The bubbles of air are not dissolved into the aquarium water, but instead disturb the surface of the water aiding aeration.
Decor
the choice of décor for the tank is almost as vast as the choice of fish itself. It all depends on your taste. Never buy gravel or sand that have sharp edges, as this will damage your fish. Catfish and other bottom dwellers prefer the usage of sand to gravel as it is easier to bury in- bare this in mind if you want to keep these types of fish. Other natural types of décor consist of rocks, plants and bog/root wood. Rocks as you know come in any size, the only rules to follow are to avoid sharp edges and lime- rich (i.e. chalky alkaline rocks, unless of course you want to keep alkaline loving fish) rocks. Bogwood is important to the tank as it releases natural tannins (acid) into the water, which fish such as angelfish, discus and tetras require. These tannins will turn your aquarium water brown, and while this won't harm your fish, it can be unsightly. To minimise this staining, soak the wood in buckets of water, and if possible, boiled in a saucepan of water. If you wish to keep an alkaline tank, synthetic wood can still be used for decoration, and you can't tell the difference when it's in the tank. Plants for your tank also depends on you own choice- many plants are available. In my tank, all my plants are of Amazon origin- to match most of the fish. I also have some artificial plants- I would also recommend these, as they require no added maintenance or fertilizers.
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