When the wind builds to such a degree that Depowering techniques
such as flattening Sails, changing to smaller sails, Easing down
the Traveler and Luffing, are not sufficient, the Sails must be
made smaller by Reefing.

The technique for Reefing to be described here is called the
"Tied-in reefing" or "Jiffy-Reefing (because it's quick)" method.
When it comes time to Reef, the first Sail to Reef is the Mainsail.
Most Mainsails can be Reefed at least twice, with each Reef
decreasing the exposed Sail area by about 15 percent.

Mainsails are equipped with at least two pairs of Reefing Cringles.
Each pair consists of a Leech and Luff Cringle that are attached to
the Sail at equal heights. Also located on the Sail and between each
pair of Luff and Leech cringles, running parrallel with the Boom,
are a row of Reefing-Ties and Grommets.

On some Mainsails, the Tie-Lines are hanging from the Grommets. The
flattening Reef is tied in with a single Leech Cringle, located a
few inches above the Clew and well below the first row of Grommets.

The Leech Cringle is pulled down to the Boom by a Line called the
Leech Line (traditionally called, "The earring."). The Luff Cringle
is pulled down to the Tack Horn which is located at the Gooseneck
(the Fitting holding the Boom to the Mast) and then hooked on the
Tack Horn.

The Grommets and Tie-Lines are used to Secure the unused Sail area
(Bunt) bellowing at the Boom. Once the Leech and Luff Cringles are
pulled down and Secured, the Tie-Lines are Rove through the grommets
and around the boom to gather the bellowed sail. Each tie line is
secured with a butterfly knot (Knot used to tie shoe laces). Avoid
using a square-knot (reef knot) since they are difficult to untie.

Mainsail Reefing is best performed with the Headsail Powered Up on a
Close-Hauled Course with the Mainsail Luffing.

First, decrease the downward pull on the main boom by easing the
main sheet and the boom vang. This permits the boom to rise up to
the leech cringle as the reef line is hauled in (using the winch if
necessary) until the leech cringle is lying on the boom. The reef
line is then cleated. The reef line cleats are located at the
forward end of the boom, bottom side.

Second, ease the outhaul to reduce the force on the bolt rope or
"bullets" inserted in the mast track.

Third, lower the halyard until the new luff cringle can be secured
on the tack horn, and tension the halyard.

Fourth, tension the reef line until the new clew is secured to the
boom with the appropriate outhaul tension.

Fifth, the main halyard is lowered so that the luff cringle can be
pulled down and hooked on to the tack horn. The halyard is then
tightened until there is a crease running from the tack to the head
of the sail. As soon as the main halyard is tightened and
cleated, the mainsheet is trimmed and the vang tightened. The tie
lines are then used to secure the excess sail.

Never tension the reef line before the new luff cringle is secured
and the main halyard retensioned, or the bolt rope or bullets could
be ripped out of the mast track.

After the reef line is secured, adjust the vang and trim the main
sheet accordingly. The excess sailcloth is then rolled along the
boom and tied up. Remember, avoid square knots because they are very
difficult to untie.

* First, head up and sail by the jib close-hauled.
* Next, let out the main sheet until the sail luffs.
* Uncleat the halyard and drop the Mainsail to the appropriate reef
Cringle (Either the number 1 or number 2 Reefing Cringle).
* Attach the reefing cringle to the tack horn on the boom.
* Tension the halyard and cleat.
* Secure the bellowing or excess sail with the reefing tie lines.

Headsails may be reefed using the tie-in procedure if they have
cringles and grommets. A jib sheet is led to the leech cringle and
the sail is lowered until the corresponding luff cringle is hooked
onto the tack horn. The excess sail is rolled and tie lines are
passed through the grommets to secure the excess sail.

There are two ways to tie-in a headsail reef; one is during a tack
and the other is by using a changing sheet. The changing sheet may
be any line that is strong enough and of sufficient length to serve
as a jib sheet; or it may be a line that is made for this purpose,
which is simply a line with a metal reefing hook on one end.

To reef during a tack, first untie the windward jib sheet from the
headsail clew and retie it to the leech cringle. Next, move the
windward jib traveler block to the correct position for the reefed
headsail. When the boat begins to tack, the jib halyard is
eased, as the headsail begins to luff and the luff cringle is pulled
down and hooked on the tack horn.

The jib halyard is then quickly retensioned as the tack is completed
and the jib sheet is trimmed for the new tack. The old sheet is then
moved up to the leech cringle while the old jib traveler block is
repositioned. The excess sail is rolled and secured with tie lines
passed through the grommets. Be careful not to tie it up to a
life-line.

To reef with a changing sheet requires an additional jib traveler
block (car ensemble). The extra block is placed on the leeward side
in position to serve as a temporary block for the reefed headsail.
The changing sheet is tied to the leech cringle and led through the
temporary block and on to a secondary winch. The primary jib sheet
may now be eased, the jib halyard lowered, the luff cringle pulled
down and attached to the tack horn, the jib halyard retensioned, and
the jib trimmed with the changing sheet.

The excess sail is then rolled and secured with tie lines passed
through the grommets. The primary jib sheets are then tied to the
leech cringle and the jib cars are adjusted for the new settings.
The leeward, jib sheet is then trimmed so that the changing sheet
and extra jib blocks can be removed.

NOTE: Before shaking out a reef, untie the reefing tie lines and
ease the reef lines before hoisting the sail.

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