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MOTOR OIL
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Intro
My Oil Light Comes On How to Check Your Oil How To Add Oil What color is the oil?
How to
Troubleshoot Leaking Oil
When to Change Oil How To Change Your
Oil
Change The Oil Filter Why Change Your Oil
Filter? How To remove A
Stubborn Oil Filter
Oil Change
Procedure for The Non Do It Yourselfer
It's easier
to just have Jiffy Lube or some other "quicky
oil change shop" do it
Quick-Lube(and dealer) Problems to Watch Out
For Engine Flushes The Latest Scam
Checklist
Oil Recycling Disposing Used Motor Oil A Few Facts
About Used Motor Oil
Other related
topics while serving your Engine Oil
Technical Stuff About
Engine Motor Oil Lubricating System
Checking
your car's oil regularly is one of the most important ways to preserve the
life of the engine.
and
can
save you alot of money in expensive repairs down
the road.
Driving with the oil level too
low can damage the engine.
An
engine cannot run without oil, not even for a minute, without serious
engine damage occurring.
Checking the oil in your car's
engine
is
the most basic AND SIMPLE under the hood check
and
one of the most important.
Except
for a few luxury cars with electronic oil level sensors,
checking
the oil in your car's engine is done as it has been for generations:
by
removing a dipstick from the engine and inspecting the oil level on the end
of the stick
(not to be confused
with transmission - which also has a dipstick)
Check the engine oil on the dipstick
periodically, especially if you own a late model used vehicle. Driving even
20 - 30 miles with extremely low oil level may result in expensive engine
repair.
My Oil Light Comes On
The oil light will go on for one
of two reasons:
either
the oil is low or the oil
pump has stopped pumping.
In
both cases, the consequences are expensive if you keep driving.
1. If the oil light goes on, pull
over as quickly and safely as you can.
2.
Turn off the engine.
3. Put
on your hazard lights and open the hood.
4. Check the oil
If the oil is not low,
call a tow truck.
Do NOT DRIVE
with the oil
light on!
5.
Add oil if it is low.
Add oil as specified
in your owners manual,
or look for a
tag under the hood of your car as to type of oil to use.
Oil is an important
item that should be kept in your vehicle at all times - See More
6.
Restart the engine and check the light.
7.
It is OK to drive if the light is now off.
8.
Check the oil again in a few hours and over the next few days.
If
it is consistently low, there is a leak. See your mechanic!
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If the engine is leaking oil,
try new gaskets or seals to fix the leak.
If
the engine is burning oil, the valve guides and seals are most likely
worn out, but the rings and cylinders could require replacement, too.
DID
YOU KNOW . . .
Not replacing
your head gasket when it is noted as leaking is likely to cause severe
engine damage. This is one of the many instances where sub
sequential damage may add up to being more than the cost of the original
repair. Have your vehicle inspected for fluid leaks every 3 months
/ 3,000 miles or 5,000 km when it is in for it's
regular oil change to ensure your safety as well as avoid any further
cost.
How will I know when it's time
for replacement?
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A head gasket that is leaking will quite often cause
an over heating condition in your vehicle. You will likely find
that it over heats and then cools off and over heats again.
·
You may notice white smoke from your exhaust system if
the leak is internal as the vehicle is burning coolant. If it is an
external leak then you may notice a sweet burning smell from under the
hood as the coolant is burned off on the engine block.
Your vehicle should be inspected for
fluid leaks in general at each regular service interval when it is in for
an oil change. Have your vehicle inspected for fluid leaks every 3
months / 3,000 miles
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How to
Check Your Oil
11 Steps
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Steps:
1. Check the
oil when the engine is warm. Oil expands when it's hot and contracts when
it's cold; different temperatures will give you different readings.
Before
checking the oil level, the engine has to be turned off
The
oil must be given a few minutes to run off engine parts and collect back
into the oil pan. If you check the oil level just after shutdown, you
could get an inaccurate oil level reading.
A good time to check the oil is before
you start the car for the day. At that time, you can be sure that the oil
has fully drained into the engine oil pan.
Remember,
though, that the car must be level for an accurate check.
2.
Park the car on a level surface.
3. Turn off the engine.
4. Find the dipstick (under the hood), a
long piece of metal sticking out of the engine usually with a loop at one
end and is usually mounted on the side of the engine.
Many manufacturers have the handle of the
dipstick painted a bright color (usually YELLOW) so it can be
easily found.
Others may have a "T" handle, or are
incorporated into the fill cap.
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If
your car has an automatic transmission, a transmission fluid dipstick
is probably under the hood also. The transmission dipstick is sometimes
marked TRANS or ATF for automatic transmission fluid.
If both the engine dipstick and the
transmission dipstick are unmarked, you can identify them by looking to
see where the dipstick tubes go.
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The engine oil dipstick is usually nearer the center of the engine
compartment, and you can often see the dipstick tube going into the
bottom of the engine.
The transmission dipstick tube is toward the rear of the engine
compartment or off to one side. This dipstick tube goes around or
behind the engine.
If you are still unsure which dipstick is which, remove
them and look at the fluids.
Transmission fluid is usually light red or gold,
and motor oil is darker
amber or brown.
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 CAUTION: Always make sure the hood prop rod (if applicable)
is properly seated before you go under the hood. If the prop rod should
slip out, the hood could fall and cause injury.
5.
Pull on the loop and draw the
dipstick all the way out.
CAUTION: The oil and
dipstick from an engine that has just been shut off will be hot and can
cause burns. Avoid dripping oil from the dipstick on hot engine parts
because oil can be flammable.
6. Wipe the oil off the dipstick with a paper
towel or shop rag.
7. Replace the clean dipstick, making sure to push
it all the way in, then pull it back out and hold it horizontally in
front of you.
8. Look at the pointy end of the dipstick. Inspect
the marks on the dipstick.
There
is no standardized marking system. Some have two lines, one marked
"operating range" and another "add." Many just have
lines with no markings. Typically the "add" line means the
system requires one quart of oil.
You can find out what the marks mean by
looking in your owner's manual.
What color is the oil?
Is
it better to maintain my engine's oil level at the full mark or wait
until it reaches the "add" mark to add oil?
Most
vehicle manufacturers say it's okay to wait
until the level reaches the add mark to add oil. But considering that the
crankcase capacity on most passenger cars today is only four quarts,
running the engine 25% low on oil (one quart) may not be wise.
The
best advice, therefore, is to add oil whenever the dipstick reads low.
Don't wait until it is down a full quart. If it needs half a quart, add
half a quart to bring it back up to the full mark.
Always
replace your oil with the same type and brand!
Your
owner's manual will tell you what type of motor oil your engine requires.
If you do not have The Owners Manual:
To determine what kind of oil to use,
sometimes you can read the dipstick or look at the oil filler cap. You
should see something like 5/30, 5W30, 10/30, 10W30.
You can also contact your nearest auto
parts store or qualified mechanic.
Oil is an important item that should be kept in your vehicle
at all times - See More
CAUTION: Do not overfill the engine.
You should not add oil unless
the level is below the "ADD" or "LOW" mark
and
NEVER
add oil to bring the level above the "FULL" mark since too much
oil may do damage.
Adding too much oil can overfill the
crankcase. As the crankshaft spins around, it can whip the oil into foam
if the level is too high. This, in turn, can cause a drop in oil pressure
and loss of lubrication to critical engine parts. Also, too much oil may
cause leaks as the extra oil is forced past seals and gaskets.
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The oil lubricating system is a closed system:
The oil does not get used up or go
anywhere.
If it's consistently low, there
may be an oil leak. Leaks can only get worse, and losing all the engine
oil will require expensive repairs and/or replacing the engine.
By checking your oil on a regular basis,
you will become familiar with the rate of oil consumption by your car
and you'll know when the consumption is rapidly increasing.
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9. Add the oil by unscrewing the oil filler cap, should be a knob that says "oil.",which
is about 3 inches in diameter and located on the very top of the engine usually found on one of the valve covers.
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OIL FILL CAP
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Unscrew it and pour in the amount and type
of oil recommended for your car. Look in your manual for the location of
the knob if it's not obvious and for what type of oil to use.
Add oil as specified in your owners manual, or look for a
tag under the hood of your car as to type of oil to use.
Motor oil is rated by a thickness rating (viscosity) over a
specified temperature range. Most cars will call out oil with ratings
such as 10W-30.
Inappropriate Oil
could
void warranty
Many new cars have
certain grades of oil. Check your owner's manual for the proper grade. If
you use the wrong grade of oil, it will void your warranty! For example,
if you use 10W30 and your car requires 5W20, it will void the warranty if
any problems arise with your engine.
10. Check the oil level with the dipstick after
adding oil. Add more if necessary. It's easier to add more oil but fairly
difficult to remove oil if you add too much.
11. Put the oil filler cap back on and secure it
tightly.
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What
color is the oil?
The oil condition is very
important and the color signifies potential problems.
The
oil should appear clean and translucent.
If
the engine oil on the dipstick is white (or the color of coffee- with-
milk) or foamy, it means the engine coolant mixes with the engine oil,
which is evidence of an internal engine defect (such as a blown head
gasket or cracked block). Such defect is common for some V6 and V8
engines.
Also,
the oil should never have a gasoline smell.
If the oil is white or has white
specks in it, this means the engine coolant is mixing with the engine oil
because of an internal engine problem.
Have
your car inspected.
There is evidence that more than 70%
of all problems with hydraulic systems can be traced directly to the
condition of the oil.
Water in the oil
Is there is water in the oil, the
oil must be replaced, as this not only damages the ball and roller bearings
but also causes corrosion of all steel surfaces. This especially applies to
those surfaces touched by the oil, for in addition to water, oxygen is
present and this promotes rust. A further danger is the reduction of the
operative area of filters and the consequent increase in the abrasiveness
of the oil.
If the oil
is slightly-brown, it's O.K.
If it's dark-brown, but
still transparent, it's admissible but it would be better to change it.
If it is very thick and
black,
you
need to change it,
along
with the filter.
If you wish to experiment a little,
You
can
go here and test for contamination
in your motor oil
The whole debate about exactly
when to change your oil is somewhat of a grey area. Manufacturers tell you
every 7,500 miles under normal conditions. "What the heck are normal
conditions?" Your mechanic tells you every 3,000 miles. Old man Billy
Bob with the bad breath and false teeth, who drives a 1962 Chevy pick up
tells you he's never once changed the oil in his truck and she runs great!
Consider this:
Are You a
Severe Driver?
You may be surprised to learn that the vast
majority of people are.
So, what exactly are severe driving
conditions?
According to
most vehicle manufacturers, severe conditions consist of the following:
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Driving short trips of 10 miles or less.
- Stop-and-go
driving such as rush hour commuting.
- Pulling a
trailer or driving with a top carrier or camper on the vehicle.
- Driving under
hot or dusty conditions.
- Experiencing
three or more cold starts per day, in which the vehicle has been
sitting for at least an hour or more between startups.
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If one or more of these conditions apply to
your driving habits, then you are a severe driver and should maintain your
vehicle according to the severe maintenance schedule outlined in your ownerís manual.
This means more
frequent oil changes, usually at least every 3,000 miles.
When you checked your oil,
was it Dirty?
If it's dirty
then you should probably change your oil!
In All Reality . . .
You can never
change your engine oil too frequently.
The more
you do it, the longer the engine will last!
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Despite
advances in motor oil technology, no oil will perform indefinitely.
Motor oil becomes contaminated
with combustion by-products, dirt and water vapor,causing its chemical additives to wear out.
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Inappropriate Oil
could
void warranty
Many new cars have certain
grades of oil. Check your owner's manual for the proper grade. If you use
the wrong grade of oil, it will void your warranty! For example, if you use
10W30 and your car requires 5W20, it will void the warranty if any problems
arise with your engine.
How to Troubleshoot Leaking
Oil
Contrary to popular belief, cars
do not use up engine oil. If your car is consistently low on oil, you
either have an oil leak or an engine that's burning oil.
You
can detect the latter condition by blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
Cars
that burn a lot of oil are candidates for engine rebuilding. Although you
may not be able to fix an oil leak, you can help diagnose it, saving your
mechanic's time and you some money.
Steps:
1. Open the hood and look for
obvious signs of wetness. Oil leaks usually come from a gasket: a piece of
material, usually rubber, cork or silicone, that
creates a seal between two metal parts.
Look
for places where different parts of the engine are bolted together.
2. Inspect underneath the car with
a flashlight for signs of wetness. Oil here could be from a leak under the
engine, or it could be collecting from a leak higher up. Wipe the suspect
areas clean with a rag so you can inspect them closely and pinpoint the
leak's source.
3. Consider getting the engine
professionally steam-cleaned at an auto-repair shop if oil has leaked
everywhere. This will make it easier for you or your mechanic to locate the
leak.
4. Place a large piece of
cardboard on the ground under the engine. Make marks on the cardboard to
indicate its location in relation to the tires and the car's front and
rear. Leave it in place overnight. Use rocks to hold it down if you park
outside.
(Some
oil leaks occur only when the engine is running, but the cardboard method
described here will still help locate these kind
of leaks, because the oil will drip down.)
5. Check the cardboard in the
morning to determine the amount of leakage and where it's dripping from.
6. You may find other types
of leaks. Motor oil out of the bottle is the color of honey. Oil that has
been in the engine for a little while is dark brown or even black.
Coolant
is green and smells sweet.
Brake
fluid is very light brown (almost clear) and very slippery.
Automatic-transmission fluid and power-steering fluid are usually red.
Repair leaks as they occur.
It is more difficult to diagnose a leak when everything is wet and seeping
than on an otherwise dry and clean engine.
If you have a leak, be extra
vigilant about checking all fluids regularly.
It's
easier to just have
Jiffy
Lube or some other "quick oil change shop" do it
Sure
you can!
Let's
look at a few of these factors first by doing it yourself:
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You
can save time and money.
You
don't have to wait in line at the service garage or quick oil change
shop.
For
ten bucks you can get the best oil and a brand new oil filter.
Can
you trust one of these places?
And,
it's so easy to do that you could train a monkey to do it.
Don't get me wrong!
If
you fill comfortable with who you have change your oil, by all means do
so, however, I do suggest you read further . . .
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How
To Change Your Oil
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TIME: About twenty minutes
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Optional:
A
socket wrench
Rubber gloves
TIP:
Before
work begins, coat your hands with a thick layer of liquid dishwashing
detergent and rub into your skin. When the job is over, you will be amazed
at how clean your hands will wash
or
Acquire
a supply of thin latex rubber gloves to wear while you work around the
oil/grease on the vehicle.
1.
Choose your oil - Add oil as specified in your owners manual, or look for a tag under the hood of your
car as to type of oil to use.
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DO NOT USE
oil
additives!
WHY?
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2.
Position the car - make sure that you're on level ground.
 To do the job correctly, the car must be
level. This means you'll have to lift the front and rear with car jack
stands.
If
you can't afford or simply do not wish to purchase a set, you can rent them
from several Auto Stores or other Tool Rental Dealers.
You
can also make your own
Set your emergency brake. If you have a manual
transmission, put the car in first gear. If you have an automatic, set it
to Park. Place the wheel blocks under the rear wheels to prevent any chance
of the car rolling back.
3.
Drain the old oil - watch out for hot oil! It's not a bad idea to wear safety
glasses or even prescription glasses.
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CAUTION:
Empty
your oil, not your crank case
If you empty 4 to 5
quarts of "oil," and it smells funky, you might have emptied
your crank case fluid. Check with your owners
manual to be sure you are unscrewing the right drain plug.
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Oil should be changed hot, which
means as soon as possible after the car has been driven at operating
temperature. If the car is parked for a long period before oil is
changed, it allows the oil to cool and gives particles of dirt and water
time to stick to parts of the engine. When the oil is drained, the dirt
and water stay in the engine.
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Take off
the oil cover that is on the top of the engine, usually found on one of the
valve covers -
then unscrew the oil plug for a
faster oil flow.
Take your wrench and shallow pan and crawl
under the car. Find the oil plug under the engine block that unscrews on
the underside of the oil pan.
CAUTION: Do not
mix up the transmission drain plug, which is located in the bottom of the
transmission, with the oil drain plug.
You
may want to check the owner's or shop service manual.
oil
plugs
Place oil
pan (to hold at least 6 quarts of liquid) under and a bit forward of
the oil drain plug to compensate for the forward motion of the oil.
Now
unscrew the plug
(counter-clockwise)
[Righty-Tighty -
Lefty-Loosey]
with
the wrench.
(If
the wrench slips and starts to round off the bolt head, try a socket wrench
instead.)
The oil will stream out rapidly, so be
careful. Chances are, the plug will fall into the
pan along with the oil. Don't worry when it happens.
When all the oil has drained into
the pan, fish out the plug (here's where rubber gloves come in handy)
CAUTION:
OIL MAY STILL BE HOT!
Now
screw it back in.
Tighten
it firmly, but not so hard that you strip the threads.
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The drain plug should be cleaned
and inspected for wear in the thread area.
Replacement
drain plugs are available that are slightly oversize with self-taping
threads. If you find a drain plug that has cross threads or will not
tighten properly, you will have to install an oversize drain plug. These
come with a gasket to help them seal any leaks.
Original equipment drain plugs
have a sealing washer that fits on the drain plug. The sealing washer is
made of soft metal, such as aluminum, and may even have a sealant applied
to its surface. The purpose of the washer is to prevent leaks around the
drain plug.
Always
install a new sealing washer.
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Do not under any circumstances
pour the oil down a drain, or in the street, or put it anywhere but in a
proper recycling area.
Poorly
placed oil can be a serious environmental hazard!
To find out where to recycle Used Oil in your city,
click here
4.
Change the filter - Always change the filter whenever you change
the oil.
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Why Change Your Oil
Filter?
Even
though most engines hold only 4 to 5 quarts of oil, constant
re-circulation of that oil means that approximately 15,750 gallons will
pass through your car's oil filter in 3,000 miles. This is why it is so
important to have a clean oil filter it extends the life of your engine.
Oil
helps to equalize temperatures in your engine by traveling from hot areas
to cooler areas. Gradually, engine heat evaporates lighter components of
the oil, causing it to oxidize and thicken. In addition, oil picks up
contamination: soot from the piston rings, metal filings, dirt and grit
that get past the air filter and othercontaminants
from normal operation of your engine.
Fortunately,
your oil filter acts as a second-line defense for fighting these
contaminants. It prevents dirt and other contaminants from damaging
internal engine parts by constantly cleaning the oil as it flows through
your engine.
An
oil filter is a low cost way to keep your engine healthy.
Consult your owner's manual for more
information.
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You'll be able to access the old filter from
either above or below the car.
My vehicle
doesn't have one!
Click Here
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Place the oil filter wrench around the
filter's body. It will tighten itself up when you turn the wrench
counter-clockwise to remove the oil filter.
Oil
Filter Wrench
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The old filter may stick initially, but will
then unscrew easily. Unscrew it completely and carefully put it aside. It
will be full of oil so place your drain pan underneath.
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HOW
TO REMOVE A STUBBORN OIL FILTER
If you
ever changed your car's motor oil, you may have experienced
how difficult it can be at times to remove the filter. It's oily and
slippery and the wrench doesn't get a good grip, so try this: Place a
strip of sandpaper (grit side against filter) between the wrench and the
filter to stop it from slipping. You'll be amazed at how much easier and
quicker the job goes.
IF you are still having problems removing the oil filter,
try this,
but
BE CAREFULL
not to slip
and cut yourself or do harm to the engine
1. Using a
hammer, push in a large screwdriver into half of the filter
2. Employ the
screwdriver as a lever and turn the filter counterclockwise.
3. Take off the screwdriver
and spin the filter off with your hands.
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FOR OLDER CARS &
TRUCKS
Older model cars
may have a cartridge-style filter, contained within a metal canister. The
canister is held onto the mount by means of a bolt through its centre.
Remove the filter by loosening the bolt. Dump the old cartridge into your
drain pan and clean the can thoroughly with solvent and a brush. Install
the new filter element in the can and lube the gasket with engine oil.
Make sure that the old gasket has been removed, and reinstall the filter
can
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Dip your fingertip in the
old oil (convenient) or take a few drops from a new quart of oil (cleaner).
Use it to lubricate the circular edge of the new filter, where it will
contact the metal engine surface.
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If the filter mounting allows, fill the filter with the
correct type of engine oil before installing it on the engine. This will
reduce the period of time required to fill the filter and get oil to the
engine on start up. This can prevent engine wear. Filling the filter is
especially important on cars with turbochargers. The turbocharger bearings
are subject to oil starvation problems if the oil does not get to them
quickly.
With your hand, install the new oil filter. If
it seems even slightly hard to turn, back it out! You are crossing
the threads. Most filters have instructions printed on them to give the
filter one more turn after the gasket has made contact.
Never
use
a filter wrench to put one on
5.
Add New Oil -
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On top of the engine
you'll find a knob that says "oil.", usually found on one of
the valve covers. See Above
Unscrew it and pour in the amount and type
of oil recommended for your car. Look in your manual for the location of
the knob if it's not obvious and for what type of oil to use.
Save
the bottles for the disposal of the old oil.
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If you don't know the oil capacity
of the engine, add four quarts, then check the oil level, if it's a quart
low add another quart.
Avoid overfilling and burst
seals
To refill, subtract one quart from
what the manual specifies because you can never get it all out. Run the
engine 10 minutes and check level with dipstick.
Add
more in pint increments to raise level, it takes
about 1 quart to raise the level from E to F.
Screw the knob back on and wipe the area clean
with the rag. Close the hood and start the engine.
With the engine running, carefully check
around the filter for any leaks. A leak will appear as some seepage at the
oil filter connection or on the filter. If there is a leak, tighten up the
oil filter a little more. If no leaks are found, back the car off of the
ramps.
Pour the oil out of the pan, and
using the funnel, transfer it to the empty oil bottles or milk containers.
Take the used oil to the motor oil recycler that you found . . .
"You
did find one, right?"
Filters need to be recycled right
along with your motor oil.
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To find out where to recycle
Used Oil in your city,
click here
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To find out where
to recycle
Used Oil Filters in your city,
click here
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If used motor oil has been
contaminated with other fluids such as anti-freeze, solvents, gasoline, or
water it cannot be recycled.
So
please, do not mix your used oil with anything.
If
your used oil accidentally gets contaminated, take it to your Community
Household Hazardous Waste Collection Facility.
Oil Change Procedure
for
The
Non Do It Yourselfer
Do-it-yourself versus paying
someone to do it
Oil changes are pretty inexpensive
when done at a reputable repair shop or dealer. Most dealers offer oil
change specials that cost less than the quick-change oil places, and the
dealers do a better job and use better filters. Alot
of dealers have very long service department hours including on Saturday (some
on Sunday). The dealers also offer a time guarantee,
generally that they'll get you in and out in less than 30 minutes or the
next oil change is on them. Another advantage of having it done at a repair
shop or dealer is that you have solid legal proof of the date and mileage
when the oil change took place.
Procedure
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1.
Call mechanic to make appointment.
2.
Drive to mechanic.
3.
Chat with owner while employee changes oil.
4.
Pay for oil change.
5.
Check the drain pug to know if it is plugged properly.
6.
Drive home.
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Quick-Lube
(and
dealer)
Problems
to Watch Out For
1. SAE30 oil. Some quick-lube
places have been known to offer advertised specials that use SAE 30 oil, as
opposed to 5W30 or 10W30. Pay the extra for the proper oil, or better yet
avoid merchants that try to pull this kind of thing because it's an
indicator that they are less than honest.
2. Trying to use the wrong oil
because it's what they have in bulk. Insist on the oil that is specified on
your filler cap and in your manual.
4. Selling unneeded and overpriced
services such as engine flushes.
5. Selling overpriced, and often
low quality, parts such as wiper blades and washer fluid, PCV valves,
thermostats, etc. Never let a quick-lube place do any mechanical work on
your vehicle.
6. Using poor quality filters. You
really want to bring your own filter, from the dealer, with you when you go
to a quick-lube place. They may take $1 or $2 off the price if you do this
but don't count on it.
7. If you have a vehicle that
actually still has Zerk fittings to lubricate
then be sure that they actually lubricate these fitting. Most cars no
longer require lubrication but some trucks still do.
8. Do not let a quick-lube place
change or add any fluids other than oil. No transmission fluid, no brake
fluid, no power steering fluid, no antifreeze, no oil additives, no fuel
additives. It is just too easy for them to use the wrong fluid and cause
permanent damage to your vehicle.
Click Here
You
will be amazed/horrified
I think I'll pass on
them!
Engine
Flushes
The
Latest Scam
Engine flushes pump heated solvent
through your engine, supposedly to wash away sludge. But regular oil
changes with detergent oil already take care of the sludge problem. And if
you actually have an engine that is full of sludge the last thing you want
to do is do an engine flush because the sludge can clog the oil passages
and destroy the engine completely. These flushes are completely
unnecessary. All they do is wash the money out of your wallet. As Click and
Clack state: "This is what's known in the business as a "profit
center." Something the garage can use to beef up the amount each
person spends per visit. So unless you've got a very old car, and are
trying to solve a specific, sludge- or carbon-related-problem, I'd skip the
R-2000." These engine flushes usually sell for about $130. The victims
are people that think that they are doing something nice for their vehicle
by cleaning the engine. In fact a dealer or repair shop that tries to sell
you an engine flush should be avoided for all service because they are
untrustworthy.
Checklist
 Use only recommended engine
oil. It should be in the owners manual and if you
are unsure call up the manufacturer or the dealer.
Make a note of your last oil
change.
Always buy from recognized
dealers and outlets.
Change oil filter at the
time of an oil change.
Never drive your vehicle if
the engine oil level is low or it does not have engine oil.
Most
cars have an indicator for engine oil on the dashboard instrumentation
plaster. If it indicates low oil do not drive the car till you refresh the
engine oil.
OIL RECYCLING
DISPOSING USED MOTOR
OIL
Did you know . . .
If you recycle just two gallons of used
oil it can generate enough electricity to run the average household for
almost 24 hours.
The catastrophic EXXON Valdez
spill was small compared to the amount of oil dumped into backyards,
ditches and farm fields by do-it-yourself oil changers.
Each month more than 16 million
gallons of used oil is disposed improperly.
It
is estimated that less than 15% of Do-it-yourself oil changers properly
recycle their oil. The remaining 85% of the people dump the oil into
sewers, on the ground, and into the trash.
SOME DOS AND DON'TS:
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1.
NEVER dispose used motor oil: on the ground; in a ditch, creek,
river, or lake; in a storm sewer; or in the garbage.
2.
DO NOT mix used motor oil with anything else, such as gasoline,
solvents, antifreeze, pesticides, etc.
3.
Transfer your used motor oil to a clean leak-proof plastic container with
a screw-on top (milk jug, empty oil container, etc.) and put the top on
firmly to prevent leaking or spilling.
4.
Contact a local gas station, garage, or oil change station in your city to
ask if they will take your used oil. Most companies that work with used
motor fluids will accept the used oil. But, always check with them first.
Don't keep the used oil around longer than necessary as you risk
puncturing the container the longer you store it.
Most of the places you'll find
will take 2 to 10 gallons at no charge.
You must bring the used motor oil in closed containers, during business
hours, and take the empty containers away with you.
5.
Prior to discarding your used oil filter, punch an air hole in the dome
end of the filter. You may use a screwdriver, but be careful not to
puncture your hand. Also, puncture the anti-drain back valve (if
present) located at the flat end of the filter. Allow oil to drain
from the filter for several hours. Combine this oil with the rest of your
used motor oil for recycling. When you find a station to dispose your
oil, ask if they will take your used oil filter as well.
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A
FEW FACTS ABOUT USED MOTOR OIL
It takes 42 gallons of crude
oil to produce 2.5 quarts of motor oil, but only one gallon of used motor
oil to be re-refined into the same amount of reusable motor oil.
Two
gallons of used oil can provide electricity to run the average household
for approximately 24 hours.
It only takes one cup of
used motor oil to put an oil sheen on a one acre
pond.
The United
States produces 1.3 billion
gallons of waste oil each year, of which 800 million gallons are recycled.
If all the waste oil in the United
States where recycled in a single
year, we would save half the output of the Alaska Pipeline for the same
period.
Four quarts of improperly
disposed oil can ruin a million gallons of freshwater - a year's
supply for 50 people
Oil is harmful to aquatic
life.
For
example, oil kills organisms in the water that fish rely on as a food
source.
Used oil is not removed from
the sewage treated at wastewater treatment plants, In fact, some plants use
processes that can create additional pollutants from the chemicals present
in used oil.
Pouring
oil into a sewer is the same thing as pouring it directly into a stream or
river.
When oil is poured onto the
ground, it can contaminate drinking water supplies.
Tossing
oil into the trash is the same thing as pouring it on the ground. It will
be dumped in a landfill, where it will eventually seep into the ground and
contaminate drinking water.
Not only is recycling of oil a
smart financial step in our economy,
it
also lessens our dependence on foreign sources of oil
and
prevents contaminants from getting into the environment.
Used Oil Filters:
Do NOT dispose of an undrained oil filter in the trash
Unfortunately, most used oil
filters are not recycled, so the oil they contain is released into the
environment. Ninety percent of do-it-yourselfers throw their filters in the
trash, sending about 10 million gallons of used oil to landfills every
year.
Puncture domed part of the oil
filter with a sharp tool. Drain filters on a rack while they are
"hot" for 12 hours.
Recycling oil filters saves
resources and energy
Americans change over 400 million
oil filters a year! These filters have a high
steel content and additional motor oil, both easily recycled. If all of the
oil filters manufactured in 1994 had been recycled, an estimated 161,500
tons of steel could have been recovered and 17.8 million gallons of used
oil would have been kept out of our fields and waterways.
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To find out where to recycle
Used Oil in your city,
click here
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To find out where
to recycle
Used Oil Filters in your city,
click here
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Other
related topics while serving your Engine Oil
Change the breather filter, check
it often.
Replace
it every 10,000 to 15,000 miles.
Change the pcv
filter, check it often;
replace
it every 10,000 to 15,000 miles.
Change the egr
valve solenoid filter, every 15,000 miles, or every tune up.
OTHER CHECKS you should perform .
. .
Change a fuel filter, every 10,000
to 15,000 miles.
ONCE A YEAR
Change the automatic transmission
filter, at least once a year.
Change the charcoal canister
filter, every tune-up.
While under the hood and under the
vehicle, take a look around at stuff, grab things and shake them and see if
their loose. Look around for leaks. Check the fluid level of the radiator,
brakes, windshield washer, and power steering. Check your belts and hoses
for cracks or rotting. You will also need to check your air filter while
changing the oil. Rotate tires and grease all steering parts every other
oil change.
You should check the anti-freeze,
or summer coolant-depending on what time of the year it is, in the radiator
or reservoir.
Personally, I'd go ahead and check
the windshield washer reservoir, the power steering reservoir, the brake master
cylinder . . .if it is fluid, I'd check it.
Lubricate The Chassis
Proper lubrication of your car's
chassis insures its performance, and should be done in conjunction with
regular oil changes.
Your car's chassis provides a
smooth ride, supports the weight of your car and enables it to turn
corners. In order to keep it working smoothly, however, the chassis must be
properly lubricated.
To
prevent wear and binding of suspension parts, heavy grease is injected
between the moving joints and into grease fittings or "zerks". All car models have different numbers of zerks in different locations.
Some
models have a sealed chassis, which has no zerks.
A sealed chassis requires less maintenance; the joints are Teflon-coated
and do not require grease.
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