Housing
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AquariumThe aquarium should be large enough to provide at least 20 gallons of water for each turtle you intend to keep in it. Since I believe red-eared turtles appreciate the depth of the water more than the length, I would choose a higher aquarium over a longer one. But this is not overly important, as long as it has a sufficient water volume. For a partial list of suitable aquarium sizes click here. Basking Area
There are many ways to create a basking area for your turtle. I like to put the basking area above the tank. With the basking area above the tank the aquarium can be completely filled with water. This makes maximum use of the aquariums size and also permits the use of external power filters. Your turtles will also appreciate the deeper water. An above the tank basking area can be made by constructing a box out of plywood or Plexiglas. The box should have four sides and a partial bottom (to act as the basking platform) and be dimensioned to sit on top of the aquarium. Add a ramp (don't use plywood here) so your turtles can climb up to the basking site. A "perch" can be provided under the basking area by stringing a length of air line tubing across the width of the aquarium, looping it 2" or 3" into the water. The turtles will rest and sleep here. They seem to like the area under the basking site as it provides them with a sense of security. Sliders, incidentally, have an air sac in their throats that enables them to stay afloat without having to swim. You can cover the inside of the basking box with a decorative aquarium background so your turtles will have something nice to look at while basking. You can paint the outside or cover it with contact paper. Use your ingenuity. As long as your turtles can get out of the water to bask, and they can't escape, it's fine. Plastic Plants
Red-eared turtles love a densely planted aquarium. Unfortunately they will eat live plants so artificial ones are the best choice. The plants will make your turtles feel more secure. They also help prevent settled debris from being swept up by water currents. Use small plants (6" to 8"). The upper level of the aquarium should be left clear so the turtles can swim freely. One or two tall plants in a corner is o.k. but don't over do it. If you don't firmly secure the plants (glue them to the bottom with aquarium cement?), your turtles will rearrange them. I leave mine unsecured. The turtles come up with better arrangements then I could and every day the tank looks different. River Stones
The bottom of the aquarium should be covered with a single layer of smooth round river stones. They should be at least as large as the turtles head so they can not be swallowed. The stones will allow debris to fall down between them where it will be out of sight. The stones, as well as the plants, will protect the debris from water currents. This debris should be siphoned off on a weekly basis. Aquarium Heater
While red-eared turtles can endure a wide range of temperatures, they will be healthiest and happiest if kept at about 75°F to 80°F. At colder temperatures a turtle may stop eating and could starve even though food is available to it. Any heater that is rated for your size tank will do but a fully submersible one is more practical for a turtle tank. Basking Lamps
Red-eared sliders love to bask in the sun. But this is not an idle pastime for them. It is vital for their health and well-being. Since they are cold blooded, they need the warmth of the sun to regulate their body temperature. In an indoor environment this can be provided by special reptile heat lamps or even an ordinary incandescent bulb. The problem with incandescent bulbs is they produce to much light and may promote algae growth in the water. Whatever type heat lamp you use it should provide a temperature of about 85°F to 90°F at the basking site. In addition to a heat source sliders also need a source of UV-A and UV-B radiation. They need this for proper bone development. The sun is the best source of this radiation but sunlight through a window, while it may provide warmth, will not provide the necessary UV. The UV will be filtered by the glass and or scattered by the screen. In an indoor environment the necessary UV is provided by full spectrum reptile lamps such as REPTISUN 5.0. These lamps are fluorescent and do not produce much heat. For this reason they must be used along with a separate heat lamp. A new product from T-REX called Active UVHeat promises to provide both UV and heat in the same bulb. Check it out at T-REX PRODUCTS. Filtration System
When we think of a filter we generally think of things like external power filters or canister filters. In reality, however, the entire aquarium is part of the filtration system. This includes the decorations, the water, and all the living things in it. If you take a jar of muddy water and let it sit long enough, the mud will settle to the bottom, leaving the water clear. Sedimentation is the first part of a good filtration system. In order to accomplish good settlement of particulate matter we need to control the water currents in the aquarium. The calmer the water, the better the sedimentation. As mentioned before, the plants and stones will help in subduing water currents. Of course, we can never achieve totally still water, so the smaller particulate matter will remain in suspension. This is where the mechanical filter comes in. The mechanical filter should be set up to remove the suspended particulate matter from the water. To accomplish this, the intake of the filter should be placed in the upper level of the aquarium. Not down near the bottom. Removing this suspended matter will give the water a more "polished" appearance. We now have the larger debris settled to the bottom of the tank and hidden between the stones. The smaller debris has been collected by the mechanical filter. The water looks clean, but even though all that debris is out of sight, it is not out of the water. Heterotrophic bacteria are busily working to decompose the organic matter hidden between the stones and in the mechanical filter element. In the process, they release ammonia into the water. Ammonia is deadly to fish, and in high concentrations, unhealthy for turtles. It must be removed from the water. This is where the biological filter comes in. Most, if not all, aquarium filters are designed for use in fish tanks and many perform both mechanical and biological filtration in the same unit. This works well in a fish tank, but not in a turtle tank. Particulate matter will quickly clog the filter, reducing the water flow. On top of this, heterotrophic bacteria will be decomposing the organic matter trapped in the filter and using up the oxygen supply from the water before it gets to the nitrosomonas and the nitrobacter. The nitrifying bacteria are being suffocated and can not perform their jobs of converting ammonia into nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. As a result, ammonia begins to buildup in the water. In order to prevent this our biological filter must be incapable of mechanical filtration. One way to accomplish this is to use an external power filter. Remove all the filter media that came with it and replace it with Bio-Chem Stars or similar product. The "stars" float on the surface of the water in the filter box and offer little or no mechanical resistance to the water flow. Once the "stars" have been colonized by nitrosomonas and nitobacter, the filter will always operate at maximum efficiency because it can not clog. As part of the weekly maintenance the debris will be siphoned from the bottom of the tank, the mechanical filter element will be cleaned or replaced, and the "stars" will be rinsed off if needed. Remember to use de-chlorinated water when filling the tank and for rinsing the "Stars". While tap water is harmless to turtles, the chlorine in it will kill the good bacteria. Water Chemistry
Since the nitrifying bacteria prefer alkaline conditions and fungi prefer acidic conditions, the pH should be kept at neutral to slightly basic ( 7.0 to 7.5). This will promote the growth of nitrifying bacteria while discouraging the growth of fungi. If you see particulate matter in the water encased in fungus, it could be that the pH is too low. Also, just as acid rain can eat the paint off a car, acidic water can eat away at a turtles shell.
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