Centralia, Pennsylvania in 1983 |
Centralia today |
Dear Diary, Today was another day to sleep in. The morning ERT would have to be something special to get me up, and none of these are, not even the promise of breakfast. Cindy and I opted to spend the day visiting some odd nearby attractions. First on the list was the town of Centralia. Centralia is the USA's own little Chernobyl, a town that's been on fire for over forty years and has since been abandoned. An underground coal mine ignited and caught fire in 1960, and the town has been burning ever since. There is no way to put the fire out, so it continues to rage underground, destroying the land above it and making the area unihabitable. You can read more about it here: http://www.offroaders.com/album/centralia/centralia.htm Cindy and I drove to the abrupt end of old Rt. 61. We parked our car and got out and walked behind the large dirt mound that prevents cars from entering the old highway. Behind that dirt mound lies an unbelieveable scene. We walked perhaps half a mile up the road. You could feel the asphalt beneath you getting softer and giving way. Finally we reached a point where the highway had just sunk. The ground below just gave away and the highway sunk, perhaps as much as 4 feet, looking very much like earthquake damage. And then we came upon the trees. White-charred trees that looked like ash. It's amazing huge forest fires having been started here. Finally we came upon the worst of the road damage. Huge chasms in the road buckled under from the fire down below, and now served as vents for the smoke to escape. Large, steady plumes of smoke oozed from the vents in the asphalt. Both Cindy and I were totally creeped out by this time and we decided to head back to our car. We then drove up to the old part of town. What was once a bustling small town has now been, for the most part, levelled. We drove down abandoned streets and saw lot after empty lot, their property having long since been razed. A few local diehards refuse to leave the place, but God knows what kind of disease they've inherited - warnings of toxic fume emissions are posted all over the abandoned town. Finally we drove up to the most accessible site of the worst damage. This was a nightmare scenario. The place looked like a dumpsite, when in fact it was actually just land, a part of the city. The ground had collapsed from the underground fire, and the crater must be twenty or thirty feet deep. All around it are the charred remains of a city that caught fire forty years ago. The smoke rising from the area at times carried an overwhelmingly offensive smell. The place just looked like hell on earth. I'm so glad we got to see Centralia. It amazes me the government allows anyone to live there - perhaps three or four families remain today. I can't even believe they allow people to visit. The toxic fumes alone made my head feel light. There were several other curiosity seekers milling about, and I'm sure at some point this place will simply become too dangerous to visit. See it while you can. We headed back on Rt. 61 and stopped in Frackville at the Dutch Kitchen Diner. This is a true Pennsylvania Dutch diner that sells all kinds of Amish crafts. It's a 1959 Paramount modern stainless that has had an additional dining area added onto the original. Unfortunately the addition resulted in the exterior being hideously bricked up and a mansard roof added on top, but the diner's interior remains untouched. As we sat in our booth I began pointing out to Cindy some of the identifying features that signified the manufacturer and year. "See, you can tell this is a Paramount by the wide curved roof. And the pink and grey color scheme in the floor tiles and recessed counters indicate that it was made in the late 1950's, I'm guessing 1959." All of a sudden Cindy got this funny look on her face and said "Oh my God! Look at you! You're the Dave Althoff of diners!" We ate Pennsylvania Dutch chicken pot pie, and it was out of this world. It came with a side order of applesauce and a trip to the salad bar. Their salad bar is also in keeping with the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition of "seven sweets and seven sours" and Cindy got to try chow chow, which is a relish of beans and vegetables. The homemade bread was slice your own, and the Dutch Kitchen makes *THE* best apple butter I have ever had! It was so good we couldn't stop eating it! Sadly, the atomic banana split is no longer atomic. Instead of arranging the ice cream and bananas vertically, the dessert is now no more than a standard banana split. We headed for Dutch Wonderland in Lancaster. I have never been here before and Cindy says the park scares her. She says it's creepy but most people seem not to share her opinion. My first impression was that it's location was absolutely bizarre. It sits on the edge of a typical business street, and it's very strange to all of a sudden see an amusement park right next door to all these businesses. There's no way to accurately describe it - you just have to see it to understand. It's like pulling into a parking lot for a strip mall instead of a theme park. I immediately noticed a building advertising fresh squeezed homemade lemonade. I really like lemonade and we went in saw this huge container of lemonade that looked really good. Well, the best compliment I can give to Dutch Wonderland is that they have THE BEST lemonade I have ever had in my life!
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