Restoration of the Frame.

The charging system was converted to a 60amp alternator, which uses a thinner fan belt on balanced aluminum pulleys. The engine was rebuilt with steel valve seats and new guides, competition mounts, 87mm pistons and liners and an oil cooler. The cooling system is a modine core re-built into the original radiator and uses an electric fan. I'm pleased to say the car came with an overdrive unit, which will make a big difference. The exhaust is now a monza straight through system, and isn't that much louder than the original.

I found the original engine had been converted to a big bore 87mm unit, but it needed a total re-build because of a cracked liner and head. I found parts from a TR4 engine, which had been stripped down many years ago. The head was in great condition with no corrosion, (or cracks) between #2 & #3 chambers. In doing this I found out that TR4 heads have slightly larger combustion chambers than the std 3's which would have given the original engine a higher compression ratio. This could have caused the engine to over heat causing the sleeve to crack and then the head to follow. The engine was re-built by Medina Motor Sports, Ohio. It was Dec98 when I started the engine; it actually started first time and ran until it ran out of gas due to a gas pump failure.

Prior to rebuilding the frame it was sandblasted and I had no work to do other than to paint it. I used many coats of Black Hirsch Miracle Paint. I highly recommend this product.

Nylon & Stainless Steel suspension bushes on both the upper and lower "A" frames replaced the std rubber. These together with the aluminum pulleys were supplied by

The rotors looked ok and only needed a light skim and I replaced the front wheel bearings. I replaced the brake and clutch system using stainless pistons and flex braided lines. There is a good article on the VTR website, "Link found on my Homepage" which covers the conversion to Toyota twin piston calipers. The rear brake shoes I had relined locally. (Oak Friction in Canton, OH

This photo shows the alternator, which is from a Mustang and the aluminum pulleys with the thinner fan belt. "No Fan ...No Wobble" The Electric fan is fitted on the front of the radiator. An easy error to make is to assemble the fan the wrong way and end up pulling air not pushing. Revington TR make stainless bottom tube with a tapped bushing welded on the side to accept an automatic sensor/switch for the fan. I chose to use a manual switch.

Homepage.

Stage 2. Body Tub & Stage 3. Repairing the Body Tub.

Stage 4. Fitting the Tub to the Frame.

Stage 5. Changing the Steering System.

Stage 6. Fitting the body panels