Changing the Steering System.

Last updated, 06/04/01

Stage 5 "Changing the Steering"

The steering worked out very well; it took a few attempts until I came up with a good bracket set up. The rack is a shortened unit from an early spitfire. It was shortened about 1.5" on the opposite end to the pinion drive end, and then the fine threads were re-machined to go further down the rack. Each of the tierod arms were also shortened about 2" and had the threads re-cut. The tie rod ends are from a spitfire and the tie rod levers were swapped from the left to right side of the car. This is easy to do on a bare frame but would be almost impossible on an assembled car. The machining is a job for your local machine shop as it involves welding and then screw cutting.

I can now turn the wheel using one finger. So it should be a breeze to drive, not like my 59 TR3A. I fitted an indicator switch/arm, which is from an old Austin 1100 because the wiring can't come up the center of the steering shaft now the rack has been fitted. The gear knob is from a Triumph Dolomite Sprint, it has an overdrive switch built in the top and the gear pattern is the same as a TR3. The horn Button is from an MGA. Well I drove the car for the first time in May of 2001 and I'm pleased to say it works very well with no bump steer.

As I've been asked a few times as to how the brackets are set up I took a few photo's to show you.

Homepage.

Stage 1. The Frame.

Stage 2. Body Tub & Stage 3. Repairing the Body Tub.

Stage 4. Fitting the Tub to the Frame.

Stage 6. Fitting the body panels