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Most often used for women of color: Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), such as AHAs, or glycolic acid, are the mildest and produce superficial (light) peels, exfoliating skin, lightening discolorations, smoothing texture and, in a cases, improving fine lines. Betahydroxy acids (BHA), such as salicylic acid, are also light peel formulas. Unlike AHAs, BHAs are self-neutralizing, so they can stay on longer for maximum effect. With lactic there is a greater risk of blotchiness. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is used for medium-depth peels, penetrating skin at a level that can facilitate collagen renewal (which improves the skin's elasticity), reduce fine lines, decrease pore size, and improve moderate acne scarring. Because of its strength, a trichloroacetic peel should not be done more than once a year. In addition, Dr. Jeffrey Sklar, for of the Center of Aesthetic Dermatology in Woodbury, New York, warns that only aesthetician mildest of peels should be used by women of color; avoid high-strength formulas with phenol (or with more than 30 percent trichloroacetic acid).
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