Chaptor 1: HerderCraft Mission Statement
We, the members of the HerderCraft, are given and accept the responsibility of the care, improvement, and knowledge of all domesticated animals of Pern and the knowledge of those animals of the wild, excluding those of the draconic species.
Chaptor 2: Search
To apply for Search, one must have been with the Herder Hall for one IC turn or 3 RL months and have been an active, not idle, and productive member. The staff /must/ be advised of your intent to be Searched. All meeting the guidelines may apply for Search, but only /two/ people can be Searched and Impress from the Hall per Weyr Search.
Apprentices: Welcome to do so.
Journeymen: Discouraged, but allowed if a worthy reason is given to the staff and accepted by the CraftHead.
Masters: Not permitted.
Residents -not termed as appies, J-men, or Masters-: Can be Searched freely without permission other then advising the staff your intentions.
Cross-crafters: Dependant upon the Search regulations of the area they first became a member of.
Chaptor 3: Specialty
When a person has been raised to the rank of Journeyman and Master...mostly Journeyman, a specialty of study should be declaired. The current specialties available are listed on the Herder FO by typing:
herdspeclist
Chaptor 4: Guidelines for Describing/Filling an Order
All apprentices need to do critter describing to be promoted in the craft, Journeymen and Masters have to do their time too. There is a wide expanse inwhich to desc successfuly with and these are just the guidelines to the making of a /great/ desc.When one describes an animal upon the request of another, that desc is representative of the craft. And it is in the craft's best interest to be shown well, it also brings in repeat customers.
Descriptions need to be more then 3 and less then 15 lines in length and be clear enough so that one can see what species (breed) or critter is being seen. Be sure that you know what a Russian Blue feline, an Irish Wolfhound canine, or a Buckskin runner is and looks like before you start descing. Adjetives, dictionaries, and a good Thesaurus are all wonderful things to have handy. Use them! You dont need to be flowery or so straight forward it is utterly without imagination. A nice in-between area would be great.
Filling an Order
It is required that all apprentices root their time in the Herder Hall in describing animals. You will primarily be describing canines, feline, and runners, but the occasional request for a herdbeast or other odd animal may come in.
When approached, try to RP the request if at all possible. Make sure to show the customer what animals are already available in the cages in the Kennels and the Beast Pen in the Stables. When taking an order, be sure to get down all the particulars: type, breed, coloring, size, age, gender, personality, anything and everything, including the time-limit on how soon they would like the animal to be finished. If you cannot take this order, please post all the information that you gathered to *critterrequest including who the animal is for.
When responding to an order, Breedable Canines (#3062), Breedable Felines (#3322), and the Generic Code-Enhanced Runner (#484) are locked down. So, that means that you need to contact a staff member to make one up for you. Don't worry about bothering us, or feel in any way shy, we will get you one *asap*.
If taking an order on *critterrequest, be sure to post to that same maimler that you have done so. This is very important so that we don't have a good dozen people out there describing one person's kitten...and it also makes sure that you get credit for doing the work.
Chaptor 5: Guidelines on Rank
This chaptor is dedicated to how one should act in a specific rank. They are set in both IC and OOC terms. Once more, these are just guidelines, not definate nor do they cover everything. The are also subject to change.
Apprentices
-IC-
Tending to the beasts.
Cleaning!!
Run errands for superiors.
Show proper respect to superiors.
Attend any lessons
Live in dorms.
-OOC-
Suggesting to staff any ideas, policy, etc...
Representing the craft at TPs.
Critter Describing
Recruit for craft
Assigned a mentor
@sethome it Dorms
Journeymen
-IC-
State specialty
Become a Mentor
Receive own room
Interview prospective applicants into the craft.
Give lessons.
Journey to other places
Attend lessons.
Show proper respect to superiors
-OOC-
Critter describing
Represent craft at an TPs
Recruit for craft
Suggest any ideas
Log interviews and send to Masters
Masters
-IC-
Responsible for Journeymen and Apprentices
Mentor
Give lessons
Interview and decide upon prospective applicants.
-OOC-
Become staff
Critter describing.
Recruit for craft
Represent craft at any TPs and leader meetings
Work for craft improvement
Assist CH in Craft leadership.
Chaptor 6: Guidelines for Promotion
Probably one of the most thumbed through of chaptors in this entire book. This is dedicated to the guidelines to achieve a promotion. These are set in both IC and OOC terms. As only guidelines, they will prolly not cover al and leave much room for interpretation. Subject to change.
Probationary Apprentice to Apprentice
-IC-
If necessary, reaching an age of 14 turns.
-OOC-
An improvement in RP.
An increased knowledge in how the MOO and SS in general work.
At lease one accepted critter description.
Apprentice to Senior Apprentice
-IC-
Show an aptitude of a general knowledge of beasts on Pern
Attendance of any available lessons.
Involvement in any craft TPs...ie, Hold Gather, Shows, etc...
-OOC-
Multiple descriptions of various critters.
Activity involving craft interests.
Must be Apprentice for at least 1 RL month.
Senior Apprentice to Journeyman
-IC-
Attendance to any available lessons
Involvement in any craft TPs.
-OOC-
Have improvement in critter describing.
Activity in craft interests.
Must be Sr. apprentice for at least 1 RL month.
Jourenyman Project
In order to be promoted to Journeyman, one must formulate a project. This can be the organizatioin of a runner show/race of some sort, a Canine show, organizing the Hall's contribution to the Hold Gather, creating a Hall related book, a minor TP that lasts only a few hours to a day or your own idea. be sure to contact the CH with a general outline and a possible go-ahead.
Journeyman to Senior Journeyman
-IC-
Involvement in any craft TPs.
Creating and giving lessons.
Journey
-OOC-
Critter describing
Activity in craft interests
Must be a Journeyman at least one RL month.
Journeying
All Journeymen are required to /journey/ away from the Hall, be this to the Weyrs or the farms. This may last anywhere between 1 RL week to 1RL month, up to the J-men and Masters. This is so that the craft can be represented in other places and for the J-men to meet new people and see different places. J-men are just that, journeyers.
Senior Journeyman to Master
-IC-
Involvement in craft TPs
Giving lessons
Mentoring
-OOC-
Critter describing
Activity in craft interests
Creation of a TP
Must be Sr. Journeyman for at least 1 RL month
Master Project
To become a Master, it is necessary that a large MOO wide and advanced TP be formulated and ran /or/ a coder project.
TP: This Tp will be advanced in every way and is completely up to the prospective Master. The TP itself should involve more then the Hall, others that can be included could be the Weyrs, another craft or two, the HOld, the farms. It should involve the entire Moo and last for 2 or more days, hopefully more. Contact the CH for ideas and guidance, then formulate a fairly expansive outline. Pending Okay by the CH.
Code: If you are one of those special people who know how to code, this is another way to make Master. Think that you can make up a better bunch of critters, or some little piece of nifty code that is necessary for our very existance. Formulate an idea of what you want to do or improve, contact the CH to get okay to any changes.
Chaptor 7: Generics and Commands
Generic Objects:
Generic Breedable Feline: #3322 -Ask Staff to create
Generic Breedable Canine: #3062 -Ask Staff to create
Generic Code-Enhanced Runner: #484 -Ask Staff to Create
Generic Steed: $steed /or/ #187 -Locked down
Generic Puppet: $puppet /or/ #141
Puppet Setup
Gender: @setgender
Description: @desc
@messages <dbref#> *or* @mess <dbref#>
To Sell an Animal/Change Ownership
1. Available on kids of the Generic Breedable Feline and the Generic Breedable Canine:
@addmaster <whoever> to <dbref#>
sell <dbref#> to <newowner>
2. The Easier Way
@set <dbref#>.c to 1
@chown <dbref#>
Herder FO Commands of Interest
Chaptor 1: Table of Contents
Chapter 2: Introduction
Canine owners should understand that training is important to establish a rapport with the animal and foster the bond of the relationship even in cases where it is a working animal and not bred for sport. This means that every canine should have its basic training at puppyhood, and even though some do not realise it, these basic commands are usually taught to the puppy/canine when in the Hold itself, albeit unconsciously by the holders. Thus, this manual is only a guideline and might not apply to all cases of human-canine relationships, and those bred for guarding/hunting purposes would naturally need training in their own specialities. Human-canine bonding is often seen, sometimes remarkable and possible in most cases; strongest when the canine has been brought up from puppyhood by a caring hand. For practical purposes, efficiency in the animal's work is likely to improve with training, and much hassle of holdkeeping is saved; not to mention avoidance of possible aggression problems. But more important is the bonding of human and animal in a unit that makes the relationship an enjoyable one, raising it from a workable level to one where both you and the canine can have fun.
Chapter 3: Things to Note
Consistency
Another example is when the canine comes after you have been calling him for a long time. In this case, do not scold/punish him. Besides being ineffective, he will associate obedience with the reprimand and will not obey in future. As usual, praise should be lavished as meet encouragement.
More on punishment
One way of disciplining the smaller canine breeds is by grabbing the animal by the scruff of his neck and shaking vigorously, accompanying it by a stern "no." For the larger breeds, there is a similar method also derived from the discipline of pack mothers, that of taking the canine by both sides of his head, tilting it to face you and shaking the head, not to be used on unfamiliar canines.
Rewards and praise
Training should be divided into segments and a regular schedule that fits your free time be thought up. It is unwise to tire both of you out in inefficient training sessions if time cannot be drawn out, and shorter sessions can be considered.
Lastly, training is an ongoing, lifelong process, and although the bond created differs by far from that of lifemates, the lasting friendship and fun is a worthy treat for canine and you.
Chapter 4: The "Sit!" Command
Release him with praise and repeat the exercise until he remembers the command, and ask him to "sit" without your help.
Chapter 5: The "Down!" Command
Repeat with each time drawing further away from his general area. If he moves, and this is pertinent to each command, move him back to the correct position, then praise him liberally. The important thing is that he learns what is expected of him.
Chapter 6: The "Stay!" Command
Chapter 7: On Heeling
Start out with your canine on your left and on the same horizontal level, winding up the leash so that there is only a little space between you. Start to walk, stepping off your left leg so the canine sees you are leaving, retaining the canine's attention with a treat or toy or none if not needed, commanding with his name, "Heel!" Keep him on a tight leash, and if he strays, give a quick short tug on the leash whilst leaning backwards. The action does not hurt the canine if done correctly and gives him a shock, thus holding his attention to you. Begin making small turns, keeping him by your side. Lightly hitting the thigh or jingling a bell could also keep him alert and watching, but pause the exercise when he shows signs of weariness; a tired canine cannot learn. When stopping, keep him at your side, in which case a more comfortable position would be the "sit".
Any mistake the canine commits should not be ignored- instead stop him with a "Stay, boy!" and stop, then start again with the right foot. Praise well at the end and practise regularly, for this is not an easy command to master especially with the jumpier breeds.
Chapter 8: The "Come!" Command
Chapter 9: Others
Chaptor 1: Introduction
Chaptor 2: The Plague
Quarantines were created, attempts were made to track down all exposed. A vaccine was made from the blood serum of those who managed to survive after having been afflicted by the plague to inject others with as a way of temporary immunization.
Unfortunatly, the disease mutated and another solution had to be found. A second inoculation of a new blood serum had to be given to all. As a result of this plague, many died and entire breeds of runnerbeast were wiped out completely, including swift racing runners and the larger draft animals.
Tales of this time are evident in the Ballad of Moreta's Ride, a rider who gave her and her dragon's life to aid in the second inoculation in an effort to save the lives of human and beast alike.
The plague that infected the Northern Continent during the sixth pass was a deadly thing, killing both man and animal alike. When the disease was first discovered, many peoples and runners were killed, but also some managed to fight it off and survive. From these vigilant victims a vaccine was created to help those not inflicted to survive. The knowledge of how to defeat this disease was available through some of the archives of the Healer Hall.
"The blood serum which rises to the top of the vessel after the blood has clotted produces the essential globulins which will inhibit the disease. Injected intravenously, the blood serum gives protection for at least 14 days, which is ordinarly sufficient time for an epidemic disease to runs its course.
"The serum introduces the disease into the body in such a weakened state as to awaken the bodys own defenses and thus prevent such a disease in its more virulent form.
"In the event of an outbreak of a communicable disease, the use of a serum prepared from the blood of a recovered victim of the same disease has provided efficious. Where to populace is healthy, an injection of the blood serum prevents the disease. Administered to a sufferer, the blood serum mitigates the virulance. Long before the Crossings, such plagues as varicella, dipstheria, influenza, rubella, epidemic roseola, morbilli, scarlattia, varila, typhoid, typhus, poliomyelitis, tuberculous, hepatitis, cytomegalovirus herpes, and gonococcal were eliminated by vaccination..."
A blood serum is an extreme remedy for a contagious or virulent disease. The blood of a recovered victim helps others from contracting the disease.
To take a sample of blood from a surviving victim, one must use glass syringes made from the Glass Craft that are much larger then that then what is used for people if dealing with a larger animal. These syringes need to be sterilized by putting them in boiling water.
A needlethorn then is fitted to the syringe. The area that the blood is to be taken from needs to be clipped and scrubbed with redwort before a sample is taken. Next, the container of blood is placed on an apparatus which uses centrifugal force to seperate the elements of the serum.
Chaptor 3: Diagnosis
Some illnesses effect only the young, others the old, times of the Turn, environmental conditions, specific kind or breed of beast, etc... The symptoms of an illness may be different from one type of animal to another, breed to breed. One symptom shown at one part of the body may mean a sickness in another part. Multiple symptoms should be considered together to help in diagnosis, the cause. Many illnesses have common symptoms.
Behaviior varying from the norm of a healthy animal is often the initial sign of an illness. Consider feeding habits, stance, behavior to others, energy, etc... Conditional loss, odor, skin and hair appearance, eyes and mouth appearance, and fever are also clues to study.
A differential diagnosis is when similar symptoms lead to multiple types of diagnosis. This means that one has to take greater care in examining the symptoms, or become even more technical in the study.
Often, an autopsy of the dead beast needs to be accomplished to discover what was wrong with the animal, a way to help in preventing other such occurances from happening. Examination of the lungs, liver, intestines and bladder, spleen, stomach(s), heart, etc... should be done after a throrough exterior examination.
Chaptor 4: Health Care Basics
2)Taking a Pulse: This is to tell how the heart is beating in an animal. There are different places to read this in each animal.
Use three fingers on the artery, count the beats. Do not use the thumb. Large animals have slower pulses then smaller ones. Older animals also are slower then younger animals. the female's pulse is faster then the male. Pureblood animals also have a faster rate then others of their kind. Pulses can be strong or weak, fast or slow, regular or irregular.
3) Drenching: For an animal to swallow a medicine, a simple way to do so is to mix it in the feed or water. If this is not possible, you may have to pour the medicine into the beast's stomach with the use of a long-necked bottle or hose.
4) Injections: The Glass Craft creates vials with liter measurements. These are to be boiled before use for sterilization. Needlethorn is used to inject. If necessary, shave the area to be injected, and then rub it with redwort. Fluids that are injected should be at body temperature or lower. Serums can be colder.
-Hypodermic Injection: Fluid is deposited beneith the skin, conducted where the skin is in loose folds. Pinch the skin, thrust the needle in quickly and inject.
-Intraderal Injection: The injection is made into the skin, instead of under it. Needle will be able to be seen through the outer layers of the skin.
-Intravenous Injection: An injection given directly into a vein because it would be too irritating or take too long to make its effects by any other way.
-Intramuscular Injection: This is made deeply in the larger muscles such as the neck or thighs.
-Intraperitoneal Injection: This injection is directed into the abdominal cavity. It punches through the skin, muscles, and the body wall.
Chaptor 5: Wounds
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Small or shallow injuries should not be serious, yet still should be treated with care. Wash the wound thoroughly with redwort and if necessary use numbweed for any pain. Pack with mosstea if necessary.
If there is a possibility that dirt may enter the wound, cover it with a bandage and check regulary to make sure that the injury is healing properly.
2) Serious Wounds
If a wound is oozing blood, usually a clot will form in time and the bleeding will stop. If this does not occur, apply pressure with a clean cloth or pad to the wound. Application of cold water is also acceptable.
Puncture Wound: This is often very difficut to treat and easily the most dangerous. First search out the wound with a sterilized probe with no sharp edges, to determine depth. Next, wrap the probe with a sterile cloth soaked in redwort and insert the probe as far as it will go. After this is done, pour antiseptic into and over the wound.
3) Surgery
Often times a blood vessel will be damaged, causing a heavy amount of bleeding and death of an animal if not stopped. Surgery is then required.
A whitehot iron can be applied against the vessel to stop the bleeding.Although, it can only be placed for a few secons, no longer or when the iron is pulled away the tissue will char and stick to the iron.
Ligatures may be necessary if an artery is heavily damaged. This means knoting a thread about the end of a blood vessel to stop the flow of blood. Veins are rarely litagated and large ones never are or the result will be gangrene.
The blood from an artery is bright red and flows in spurts while vein blood is dark and flows evenly.
Gently clean the wound of blood with a cotton dipped in cold water so one can see where the blood is coming from. Use forcepts, tweezers, small pliers, to hold vessel till it is tied off. this can be slippery work. Tie the cord tightly around with a firm knot and cut off the ends. be sure not to tie up a nerve accidently.
Torsion is twisting a vessel around so that inside it is mangled, stopping the flow of blood. This is typically used on small vessels. Small veins may also stop bleeding if grasped firmy with forecepts.
After the artery is tied off, the wound should be cleaned, disinfected, and bandaged to protect it from dirt. An artery caries blood away from the heart, so it should be compressed between the wound and the heart. A Vein carries blood to the hearth, so it should be compressed on the side of the wound furthest from the heart.
Chaptor 6: Suturing
Before working on a wound, bleeding needs to be stopped, all instruments, dressings,and those working on the animal need to be clean, treated with redwort before coming in contact. Dressings need to be changed when they are loose or get dirty from either th e outside environment or wound seepage.
If there is swelling, the bandage may be too tigh. If an injury happens on an area of the animal where there is movement, the animal needs to be kept quiet and relatively immoble, less the wound heal improperly.
Chapter 1: Introduction
1. You should work on haltering, leading, and grooming almost from birth with your runner. Tack, lunging, and riding shouldn't start until the runner is big enough to carry a rider, usually about 2 - 3 Turns otherwise you will hurt them.
2. For praise, you start with redfruit or other treat food, accompanied with pats and verbal praise. Eventually, the runner will associate the pats with food. (Note: Don't feed by hand, put the treat in a bucket or on the ground to discourage biting)
3. If a runner does develop a vice, such as biting, contact someone experienced to determine the cause of the individual runner's behavior. Then help fix it.
4. You will get more with sweetsticks than with redwort. Be gentle and patient with young runners, and they'll be more willing to work for you rather than against you. If you make them happy, you'll end up a lot happier yourself.
5. Don't worry about mistakes; they happen and can be fixed. No trainer has ever not made a mistake, so be prepared to make one but don't give up.
Don't Worry about Mistakes!
First of all, the professional is constantly reading the runners. When he senses the runner responding incorrectly, he will make adjustments to his cues to correct things. If he blows it and can't make the correction, he simply goes with whatever response the runner gives him. A professional musician doesn't stop playing when he hits a bad note and neither does the trainer.
Chapter 2: Leading and Haltering
First, It is a matter of what type of halter you choose to use you can use a leather foal halter or a rope halter. I recommend the rope.
1. Approach the horse from the left side. Place the halter in your left hand and show it to the runner. You can lay it across you arm or across the runner's withers.
2. With your right arm, reach OVER the runner's neck and down the 'off' or right hand side. You are now more or less hugging your horse. DO NOT stick the runner's nose in the halter and flip the poll strap up over his head. People do this all the time and the upward motion going past the eye naturally sends the horse's head up in the air. While many runners learn to 'tune out' this improper motion, why would you want to send your horse ANY conflicting signals? Besides, at some point you may need your runner to move his head up and away from you, so why would you want to teach him to ignore this aid simply through poor haltering practices? We always work with a DOWNWARD motion whenever possible around the runner's head
3. Once you have reached down with your right hand you can take the end of the poll strap and bring it over the runner's neck. (Please note that I am exaggerating the movement here for purposes of illustration.) If the runner wants to leave, you now have material completely around the runner's neck so that you can control him. KEY POINT: With the poll strap in your right hand and the left side of the noseband in your left hand, gently slip the halter up the runner's nose and in one smooth motion and secure the poll strap. Most runners not only don't mind this procedure, but many will actually naturally turn their noses toward you to make the process easier.
Let the runner keep the halter on for periods of time for a few days, then try to lead. For this, snap on the lead rope and have someone lead the foal's dam forward. The foal will follow instinctively, and just use the lead to guide it. Eventually, you can guide the foal further and further from the mare.
When leading, don't pull the foal forward. Coax it, trying to keep about even with the shoulder. When your foal can comfortably be led and haltered, you're ready to start grooming it.
Tying the Poll Strap.
Chapter 3: Grooming
First, clip the foal into the crossties. If it starts to fidget, speak soothingly and calm it down. The first few times, let the foal stand in the ties until it feels comfortable. When the foal is accustomed to standing in the 'ties, you can start on the actual grooming.
When teaching a foal to be groomed, it is important to remember that you're not aiming for a perfect turnout-you'r trying to help the runner learn. As such, start with the normal hard and soft brushes. The foal should already be used to petting, so using the brushes with a firm pressure shouldn't be that hard for the foal to accept.
After using the brushes for a while, use the comb on the mane and tail. To prevent discomfort by pulling too hard, start working on the tips and work your way to the top of the hairs.
The hoofpick is a bit more difficult. Lean on the shoulder, and run your hand down the runner's leg. Sometimes, pressing on the chestnut helps, as well. Eventually, the foal will discover what is expected of it and lift its hoof.
Gently and quickly pick out a bit, then set the hoof down. If the runner tries to pull away, do /not/ try to hold on! That usually results in injury to yourself and the foal, as well as a very frightened and spooked runner.
Once you've done the above, apply a thin layer of oil on the hoof. It helps keep the hoof moisturized and healthy. Cracks in the hoof wall of a young runner can ruin it more quickly than most other things.
For the first two Turns of a runner's life, you should spend a great deal of time with it, helping it get used to humans so that when the time comes to put on the saddle and bridle, you have a trusting young animal to work with.
Chapter 4: Saddling and Bridling
The lack of stirrups and a cavesson makes the entire process less complicated, and reduces the chance of anything getting tangled or spooking the inexperienced runner.
1. Place the runner in a round corral or riding ring. Leave the runner unrestrained because by this time you should have no problem walking up to him. This will also help them get the use of the weight of the saddle on their back and they can move around freely.
2. Place the pad gently on the runner's back, and then lift the saddle over, making sure you don't bump the runner's side. Quickly move to the off side, buckle the girth on, then to the near side and finish putting on the saddle. The girth should be just tight enough to hold on the saddle, and shouldn't pinch the runner.
3. Wait until the runner has calmed, then proceed on to the bridle. Keeping the halter on, place the reins over the head and unclip the lead rope. The reins are now all that you have to control the runner, so make sure you don't drop them.
4. Get the runner to open its mouth by slipping your finger through the bar. It should instinctively open its mouth, allowing you to slip in the bit. Bring the crownpiece down over the ears, and then adjust as needed to make sure the bit rests comfortably on the bar of the mouth. Do this gently. Young Runners have soft mouths.
Buckle the throatlatch, and check all the straps. Everything on the tack should be slightly looser than normal. Do all this in a downward motion like with the halter
5. Run some easy gates so the runner gets a feel for the saddle and bridle after a few moments and this dose not affect them then moves to some of the faster gates.
Once the runner has been tacked several times successfully, you can move on to the last step before riding lunging.
Chapter 5: Lunging
1.Your runner should be lunged in its corral or Training Ring. In addition, you'll need a lunge line, an assistant, and a lunging whip.
2.Clip the lunge line onto the bridle, and have your assistant lead the runner out to the end of the lunge line. During the lunging, you should be standing even with the shoulder and turning slowly with your runner.
3.The assistant should start walking your runner around in a circle, stopping when you say 'Ho' and moving into a walk again when you say 'walk on.'
4.When the runner seems to be responding to the commands well enough on his own and is comfortable with the idea of walking around the circle, the assistant should drop his/her hold on the bridle and continue to walk next to the runner, on the side opposite you. If the runner doesn't react, the assistant may drop away gradually, leaving the runner walking on his own.
5.When the runner is ready, you can move on to trotting, and eventually cantering. Flick the whip in the sand behind the runner if it falters, but do not actually hit the runner and never hit the runner with if even if he still dose not respond you will only frighten him.
Once the runner is adept at lunging, you'll finally be ready for the last step in training a runner riding.
Chapter 6: First Ride
1.It's best to use a wooden mounting block to stand on, so you don't have to bounce as much. Stand on the block, and roll down the left stirrup on the saddle only. Gently place your left foot in that stirrup, and slowly apply more and more of your weight to it. (Note: you should have someone experienced with runners hold the animal for you.)
2.Wait until the runner accepts the weight in the stirrup before continuing. Lean slowly over the saddle until your stomach rests on the seat. Keep your balance there, don't swing over. Have the person holding the runner lead it around with you in that position for a while, then stop and lower yourself to the ground.
3.Continue to 'ride' on your stomach daily until the runner accepts that calmly. When you think that you are both ready, swing your leg slowly and gently over the saddle. (You should still have someone to hold the runner.) Have your leader bring you around the ring.
4. After a few months when the runner is comfortable with being lead, try mounting and riding by yourself. You should have already been moving around and such getting the runner use to you weight. Once you runner is comfortable with this she is ride able.
After your runner is ride able, you can train it to fit your own needs and its individual talents..So enjoy..
Age: @setage
-example: @setage Foofer 2 9 20
-example: @setgender Foofer to male
*Or*
@notedit <dbref#>.description
-Don't forget to consider altering the @walk_motile
-Sets the <dbref#> to be able to be sold by <whoever>
-the command submitted by <whoever> to change ownership fo the <dbref#> to the <newowner>
-allowing the <dbref#> to be owned by another person
-the commaned submitted by the would-be owner to take possession of the <dbref#>
herdhelp: Shows the help file for regular members.
herdstaffhelp: Shows the help file for staff members.
herdranklist: Gives a list of allowable ranks in order of significance.
herdspeclist: Gives a list of specialties.
herdstafflist: Gives a list of staff members.
herdlrank [rank]: Gives a list of members of a specific rank.
herdlspec [specialty]: Gives a list of members of a specific specialty.
herdlpost [post]: Gives a list of members[B at a specific post
herdwho: Gives a list of herders who are currently connected.
herdroster: Gives a list of herders and what their title is.
herdrrank: Gives a list of herders sorted by their rank.
herdrpost: Gives a list of herders sorted by their post.
herdrmentor: Gives a list of herders sorted by their mentor.
herdrspec: Gives a list of herders sorted by their specialty.
herdinfo [name]: Gives a formatted list of a member's information. If issuded without a
herdmotd: Retells you the MOTD.
hlast: Gives a list of herders, and their last connect times.
Basic Canine Commands
Table of Contents
Chapter 1: Table of Contents
Chapter 2: Introduction
Chapter 3: Things to Note
Chapter 4: The "Sit!" Command
Chapter 5: The "Down!" Command
Chapter 6: The "Stay!" Command
Chapter 7: On Heeling
Chapter 8: The "Come!" Command
Chapter 9: Others
This book is compiled in conjunction with a project and is intended to give some basic tips on training to the general Pernese population. More in-depth information can be found in the records of the Herder Crafthalls.
Discipline and the use of "No!"
Use the command "No" when the canine is doing something he shouldn't. The canine should preferably be taught from an early age that he cannot always have his own way and that you are the stronger of the two, whom he should give way to. The word 'no' should be said firmly and appropriately, not with his name. For warnings, keep your tone low in a mock growl. If he jumps up onto something, the correct command should be "Off" and not "No" or "Down" , the commands must be distinct from each other. Use "Release" to let the canine go after every activity and 'enough' would signal a halt to rowdiness or excessive noise. A point to remember is--maintain eye contact as much as is possible, it strengthens the bond and encourages the canine to look at you on his own initiative. At this point the use of consistency should be advocated at all times and that is the subject of the following page.
The importance of consistency in giving commands cannot be understated To achieve this, a clear idea of set limitations is needed; also that you should not say one thing and mean another. The canine will be confused by the conflicting commands and his disobedience will cause unhappiness for both human and animal.
Often the word "No!" fails and you will have to administer a light slap to his rump and a "Bad
The use of food treats in training is sometimes practised and arguably effective in training. But it should be noted that overfeeding is unhealthy for the canine and discourage him from active work besides. Praise, like reprimands, should be given immediately after the incident and in fact has proven effective to teach a canine tricks, getting him to sit by repetitions of the word when he naturally sits, for example. Also, do not nag or unnecessarily repeat a command like "<Name>, sit!" He has sharper ears than you and has probably heard, if he chooses to ignore the command there must be a problem and it is advisable to start regular training again.
To teach the canine to sit, you hold him on a short leash so that he is forced to hold his head up. While saying, for example, "Sit, Rover!", press down on his rear end with the free hand, collapsing his rear legs while raising the upper part of his body with your right hand, so that he is forced to sit on his haunches.
After having learnt the "sit" the next step is the "down" command. Lying down is a natural position for the canine and he finds it more comfortable in that position especially when asked to "stay". Raise your hand palm toward him while firmly saying the word "Down." together with his name; accompanied by downward sweep with your hand- inquisitive canines would lie down with their nose to the ground to investigate. If that doesn't work, you can push down on the canine's neck and rear end until he is in the correct position. Larger breeds would require one to pull his front legs forward while pressing down on the back.
Once the canine is familiar with the sit and lie down commands, he can be placed in the position he is most comfortable in while you stand in front of him, telling him to "Stay!" First remain in his sight provided the canine stays in place. Reward him appropriately with praise, etc., and on the next session gradually lengthen the distance between you and him. If he moves, put him back in the exact position and location he was before and proceed. Success comes when you can manoeuvre out of his vision either to the back of him or out of sight. Praise warmly and release.
Heelwork is an essential facet of canine obedience training, and requires cooperation and rapport between the human and canine partners. There are a variety of ways in which heeling is carried out. Generally, the canine starts out on a leash and when advanced progresses to heeling without the use of the leash.
This command builds on the canine's desire to come to you. By clapping your hands and praising him from a short distance away, then saying "<Name> come", arms outstretched to receive him. The enthusiastic canine will show his affection and come quite naturally. In cases where this doesn't work, a treat can be used to entice the canine so that he sees it benefits him to come to you. Still, what works better is the injection of a spirited tone of voice and a welcome to show him your joy at his obedience! Or, in the sit/stay or down/stay position, walk away from your canine as far as your leash allows. Turn and face him and kneel, placing your hands palm upward on your thighs. Give the command, tugging on the leash if the canine needs prompting, and praise when he comes to you. The next step involves the use of a longer line, placing the canine farther away from you. Grab his attention as before, and when he comes give the "Sit" or "Stay" to ensure he really has learnt it well. Practice the command off-leash. Proceed with consistent praise and sessions of suitable length until he comes when called even when a more interesting situation presents itself.
There are many other commands the canine can be taught. How much and the depth of obedience needed would differ from breed to breed and the type of work he is subject to. Examples would be: Shake, roll over, beg, jump, carry and fetch. The list goes on.
Beasthealing Book
Any departure of the normal condition of a beast is an area in which beasthealing has the possiblilty of being necessary. Threatening agents for this departure are: infectious disease (viral or bacterial), heredity, injury, environment. This book contains illness descriptions, diagnosis, prevention of illness, and curing of an illness to the best of one's ability.
In the very midst of the sixth pass, an odd beast was found and brought to the Craft Hall at Keroon for identification, known now more commonly as a Southern Cat. The feline carried a disease that managed to infect the runners there, animals which were send to Telgar, Ruatha, and Southern Boll Holds before it was discovered. The feline itself was later sent to Ista for viewing by the public. The disease that this feline brought spread from these places to plague most of the Northern Continent, a deadly affliction taking the lives of human, dragon, and beast.
--Master Gallandy of the Healer Hall
Before solving a problem, one must first know what that problem is. Diagnosis is based on what is given evidence, such as appearance and actions. The symptoms and not guesswork.
1)Taking a temperature: ???
Runners and Bovines: Felt on back part of fetlock of a front leg.
Ovines: Femoral artery where it extends from the groin and down inner surface of the upper, hind leg.
1) Small Wounds
Use catgut (made of ovine intestine) to sew with, a metal needle, straight one if suturing the skin, curved if dealing with muscle. As neatly as possible, the stitches should be the same length, same depth, and equal distance appart...all in order to evenly distribute the strain over all the stitches. When the knots are tied, it should be made to the side of the wound, not over it. An opening may have to be left for deep wounds, to allow for drainagte.
This book is meant as an introduction to runner training, to get you started on the basics. It is highly recommended that you seek the help of an experienced trainer before working with your runner. Keeping that in mind, there are a few things you should know.
I enjoy it when newer handlers see a master trainer at work for the first time. They say, "It was like magic! He didn't make a single mistake!" Wrong!
>p>
Runner handling is full of mistakes. Even the pros make them. Each runner responds a little bit differently from another when first handled. An aid given just a little bit too strongly can cause the runner to 'overespond,' (e.g., rollaway rather than just slow down). The handler being slightly out of position can cause the horse to 'see' a different message than the one intended. So why does the professional handler look so 'perfect?'
Haltering and leading are the very first thing that any runner should know. Though they can be taught at any age, it is best to start when they are only a few days old.
There is a little secret to tying the poll strap so that it can be easily loosened if the runner pulls. Draw the poll strap down through the halter eye. Bring it down, to the rear of and around the eye, then across the front of the eye and tuck it through itself. This may sound complicated, but it's really pretty easy. The idea here is NEVER to tie the poll strap up around itself because the knot could cinch tight under pressure and be very difficult to remove. By tying around the eye, you can always slide the eye back up to loosen things if the horse pulls and the knot gets tight.
Grooming is important for any foal to know how to stand for. At the very least, they should know how to stand and be groomed in the crossties, but if you won't always have access to crossties, it might be useful to work out of 'ties as well.
Before you can ride, you obviously need to make sure your runner is used to some necessary tack-namely, the saddle and bridle. Before you can start working with the runner, you need the proper tack. A lightweight saddle, without any stirrups, a correctly sized girth, a simple saddle pad, a bridle without a cavesson, and an eggbutt snaffle bit are suggested.
Lunging is an important training step and shouldn't be skipped over. It teaches the runner to respond to voice commands, and gives you a way to exercise them when riding isn't practical.
Okay after all the work the best and most rewarding part has arrived time to mount up! The first steps need to be taken carefully. You can end up with a useful animal or you can botch it and end up with a ruined runner.
