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Q. How do I know if my guppy is pregnant? | Female Guppy abdomens have a dark spot, called the gravid spot, at the rear of the female's abdomen. The color is caused by the baby guppies (actually their eyes) showing through their mother's skin. The darker the spot the closer the babies are to birth. |
Q. How long is a Guppy pregnant? | From 22-26 days but if the conditions are wrong for birth it may take longer. |
Q. Do I have to use a breeding trap? | The reason to use a breeding trap is to avoid the female eating the babies (fry) when they are first born. But if the trap is not in a separate tank the other fish may eat them anyway. So, what I do is to float plastic plants on the surface where the fry can hide. When they are first born they drop a little and then go to the top to try to find somewhere to hide - the plastic plants provide the place to hide. |
Q. What do I feed the fry? | Baby brine shrimp are good but for most hobbyists just grinding up the flake food between your fingers to make the particles small enough for the fry to eat is a good way to start. |
Q. I do not have a male guppy but the female is pregnant. How? | Female guppies can accept up to 5-6 packages of sperm. So, after one batch of fry are delivered more may be on the way from meeting a male months ago. |
Q. How old is guppy when it breeds? | After a month some are ready to breed so think about separating males and females after the fourth week. |
Infusoria | Water, which to us appears crystal-clear, when observed through a microscope is seen to be teeming with a wide variety of tiny living organisms. Although we cannot see them with our naked eye, the guppy sees them, eats them and thrives on them. It is for that reason that infusoria (tiny plant, animals or forms having characteristics of both) is ideal as a food for small fry. In summer, unless there is a severe dry spell, ditch water is found everywhere filled with infusoria; in winter it may be cultivated. Infusoria thrive on decaying vegetable matter. Some alfalfa hay with its fairly high protein content, decaying lettuce, and plenty of sun or artificial light makes a culture quickly. As portions of this green water are poured into a tank, the opaque material is seen to diffuse into the clear tank water and the fry appear to attack it. Obviously what we cannot see in detail is either visible to the fry or they find it "with their noses." Many people make nets of thin muslin and go infusoria collecting, but in reality it's much easier just to "grow you own" at home. Once you have an infusoria culture started, you can use it to "seed" your next batch. In summer you can set tubs in your back yard to breed infusoria, and in the winter use flat pans on window sills with a southern exposure where sunlight strikes them most of the day. There is probably no better starter food for guppy fry than infusoria. Be careful though. If allowed to stand to long without proper care, the odor may become quite objectionable. The culture is ready to be used long before it reaches that stage of "ripeness." |
Baby Brine Shrimp
Guppies of any age relish baby brine shrimp. The brown roundish tiny eggs
may be purchased in any tropical fish store, but it is much more
economical to purchase them in one pound cans if you have any fairly large
size breeding operation. Hatching brine shrimp is a fairly easy process
and requires a minimal investment in time and money. There are a few very
important things to keep in mind about feeding your guppies, especially
fry, large amounts of baby brine shrimp. There is definitely a "too much
of a good thing" factor in doing so. In my experience, feeding a diet too
high in baby brine shrimp has the opposite effect of a proper ratio of
their quantity in your guppie's diet. Baby brine shrimp are extremely high
in protein and very little else. Over feeding them can result in stunted
growth of guppy fry.
Also, when and how you choose to feed them to your fish is very important.
I never make baby brine shrimp the first meal of the day for my guppies.
If fed as the first meal of the day they have a tendency to gorge
themselves which can result in intestinal binding. I always feed flake
food, high in vegetable content as my first meal of the day. Since my
guppies are hungry in the morning there is less liklihood that they will
turn their noses up at it. I will use baby brine shrimp as the second or
third meal of the day, depending on the age of the fish, and again, I will
always follow it with more high vegetable content flake food. This assures
a well rounded diet containing the proper amounts of animal and vegetable
ingredients needed to assure the health of your guppies, and the
sandwiching of the brine shrimp with flake food keeps the intestinal track
moving without binding up your fish. TOP
Micro Worms
The next larger live food useful in feeding the guppy fry is the
microworm. It is just large enough to be visible. These small worms were
introduced to the world from Sweden. The females are about one-twelfth of
an inch long; males a little smaller. The female bears about fifteen live
young at a time which mature in a few days. They grow in many media; a
mixture of bread and yeast kept almost liquid and innoculated with a
starter culture will soon be teeming with these whitish creatures. It is
best to maintain them in a covered glass jar with smooth sides as they
tend to crawl up the sides of the container when the population in the
medium becomes too dense, and they then can be scraped off with a knife
blade and fed to your fish by dipping the blade into the aquarium water.
Guppy fry generally have to be trained to eat them, but once they learn
the taste, they eat them with relish and grow very well on them as part of
their diet. TOP
Daphnia
It may amaze some guppy breeders to read that many top experts do not
regard the daphnia the best guppy food. Many use them as a large part of
their diet regimen. The commercial sources for live daphnia have all but
disappeared and are they are quite expensive when you do find them. They
do not live long and must be fed to your fishes as soon as you get them
home. Daphnia exhaust the oxygen from their containers and need to be kept
cold and thus inactive if they are to live as long as possible without
food. Most stores now sell frozen daphnia, but in my experience you wind
up paying for a lot of ice and not much daphnia. I'd avoid it. Raising
daphnia is not a very difficult thing to do and, it's a lot of fun. There
are many commercial sources of daphnia starter kits which can be found in
the classified section of any tropical fish magazine.
There are about 50 different species oh daphnia but the two most common
and most appropriate for feeding to your guppies are daphnia magnawhich is
many times larger than the smallest species and daphnia pulex, which is
the most common.
One word of warning! Do not put a heavy feeding of daphnia into a tank of
guppy fry. The daphnia not only tend to exhaust the oxygen supply from the
water, but they also eat the infusoria that the fry need to maintain
proper health and growth. TOP
Mosquito Larvae
Mosquitoes throughout the spring, summer, and fall lay eggs on the surface
of any water they can find, especially water which has some decomposing
organic matter in it. The eggs are deposited in tiny rafts and hatch into
small wigglers which develop in a few days into sizeable dark-brown larvae
- a prime delicacy for mature guppies. For small fry, it is advantageous
to collect the rafts which can be found floating on stagnant water. If
yhese little rafts, which contain larvae, are left floating in the fry
tank, the fish will consume the tiny larvae as soon as the latter hatch
and swim downward in the tank.
Wigglers come to the water's surface and stay there breathing through a
tube pushed up into the air. The slightest jar or disturbance will send
them scuttling downward. To collect the larvae it is necessary to plunge a
net in and scoop them up before they have had a chance to dart downward.
Mosquito larvae stand crowding in a container because they are not
dependent on the oxygen in the water. On the other hand, it never pays to
catch more than one's Guppies can eat in a day or two because if they are
not promptly fed to them, the larvae will turn into mosquitos and you will
have a room filled with flying, blood-sucking pests. Again, frozen
mosquito laevae are available commercially, but you'll get more ice than
mosquito larvae so I just don't feel that this is an economical way to
obtain this treat for your guppies. TOP
Tubificid Worms
CAUTION! Feed Tubifex worms to you guppies at great risk!
These worms, for sale in most all fish supply stores are common residents
of fresh and brackish water. They live in tubes in mud in either still or
running water, sometimes in such quantities as to form reddish patches on
the mud where they wave their hind-ends in the water. The usual species
used by hobbyists is Tubifex tubifex, a worm of about 60 segments and
about one and a third inches long. However, of the Tubeficidae there are
about 133 known species, several of which can be useful as guppy food.
Tubefex tubefex can sometimes be found in large numbers in shallow water
below a sewer, and this of course is where the danger in feeding them to
your fish originates.
A good many so-called tubefex worms are actually not of the tubifex genus,
but are limnodrilus of which about 28 species are known. Very little
preference is shown by guppies for one over the other. Both are members of
the Tubificidea family for which reason it has been suggested that they be
discussed them under the appellation of tubefacids, not tubifex.
Here's the bottom line on feeding these creatures to your guppies.
Nothing, and I'll say it again, nothing puts size on a guppy faster than
regular feeding of tubifex worms. Guppies attack and devour them as if
they were possessed. There's very few sights like watching a two week old
guppy wrestling with a tubie twice as long as he is. It really is
something to watch. I used them for years, and as long as there's no
problem, well, no problem. Every so often you will get a batch of worms
that has the potential to completely wipe out your fish room, virtually
overnight. It's not a pretty sight. Tubifex worms carry bacterial,
protozoal and nematode diseases and should not be used as guppy food,
White Worms
Many small worms are white but what has come to be called white worms by
fish enthusiasts belong to the genus Enchytraeus, of which there are about
40 species. E. albidus is one of the best. In Europe and America, this is
a common worm. It is found in the U.S. from Maine to New Jersey along the
seashore near the high-water mark. Sometimes a nice lot can be found in
decaying seaweed or under stones. It is thin and nearly an inch long. It
breeds best at fairly low temperatures for which reason it is often raised
in refrigerators at 45 to 50 degrees F. It lives on decaying organic
matter and fresh food. Bread, cracker crumbs, dried milk, all make
excellent food for these worms.
As with many other types of live food, there are many commercial sources
of these and other worms available in the form of starter cultures. TOP
Blood Worms
Many The larvae of a mosquito-like insect, the midge, are sometimes blood
red in color and jointed, living in silty or muddy places though
oftentimes caught in daphnia nets in fairly clear water. Blood worms will
live a long time in cold water but let the water warm up and the worms
will soon develop into winged insects.
Bloodworms are available live from most fish supply stores, as well as
frozen and freeze-dried, also. They are an excellent food for your
guppies. TOP
Earth Worms
Guppies will eat shredded earth worms but few people seem willing to shred
them. Everyone has seen earthworm castings on lawns. The worms eat huge
amounts of organic matter mixed with soil. They digest and absorb but a
small proportion of what they ingest. Therefore, earthworms, shredded tend
to muddy the water unless they are kept unfed for a day or two, or long
enough for them to disgorge, or they may be shredded and placed into a
fine net and rinsed.
To quickly gather a cup of earthworms without having to dig for them, put
enough potassium permangenate crystals into a pail of water to make it a
deep pink. Pour this solution on a patch of grass and the worms will start
coming out of the ground in a few minutes. Although a bit messy, they are
an excellent guppy food. TOP
Glass Worms
When netting for daphnia in a woodland water-hole, especially in shady
places, it is not unusual to bring up hundreds of long, almost transparent
creatures, pointed at the ends and half an inch long, with darkened areas
near each end. They lie level with the surface of the water. These are the
larvae of aquatic insects. They are frequently netted under the ice in
winter and sold in fish supply stores. They stand crowding remarkably
well, but not heat. They are a good live food for your guppies, but by no
means at the top of the list. TOP
Black Worms
Since tubifex worms have fallen out of favor, you will now find that most
of your fish supply houses are carrying black worms, which appear
identical to tubifex worms except they are darker in color. I must be
honest and tell you that I do not currently know if these worms can cause
the same type of problems that tubifex worms are notorious for, but in the
next week or so I plan to do some research and inquire from some experts
in the field if these worms are a safer alternative. At that time this
section will be updated with that information. I have used these worms in
the past with no problems, but that does not mean that the potential for
problems does not exist.
Wingless Fruit Flies
Wingless fruit flies are a great food that you never hear mentioned very
much. In it's natural habitat the guppy is primarily a surface feeder,
hence its upturned mouth. All of the previous foods mentioned (except
mosquito larvae) are either free swimming or bottom dwellers. Raising
wingless fruit flies is extremely easy and when sprinkled atop your
aquarium water your guppies will practically fling themselves out of the
tank as they attack the flies. They are an excellent "change of pace" food
for your guppies and are available in inexpensive starter cultures from
many commercial sources. I suggest that you try them on your fish. They
are a good nutritional food source and your fish will find them to be a
welcome treat.
Lighting
Q. How much light do they need?
Provide 10-16 hours of light a day and use an automatic timer to turn your
lights on and off.
Diseases
Diseases
[Water Poisoning] [Food Poisoning] [Carbon Dioxide Poisoning] [Dying
Plants Poisoning]
[Household Contaminants] [Fungus Diseases] [Saprolegnia] [Mouth Fungus]
[Crown Fungus]
[Fish and Tail Fungus] [Gill Sickness] [Bacterial Diseases] [Tuberculosis]
[Bloat]
[Air Bladder Disease] [Gas Bubble Disease] [Deficiency Diseases] [Rickets]
[Parasitic Diseases] [Ichthyopthirius (Ich)] [Ichthyophonus] [Velvet]
[Leeches]
[Fish Lice] [Abnormal Growths] [Enemies] [Hydra]
Water Poisoning
The most common killer of guppies is water poisoning. Water with minerals
which kills guppies, poisons them. Water running through long lead pipes
can kill them insidiously as it has killed human beings. Just as lethal
are copper pipes which can be found in most homes in America built since
the early 50's. Copper in concentration of 0.2 parts per million will kill
some fishes in twenty-four hours. Such small amounts of copper as to seem
inconsequential have been found to destroy infusoria and other minute
foods on which guppy fry need to thrive. Water too acid, too alkaline or
too salty may be lethal. Fresh water from a tap from a city supply may
kill due to its high chlorine content. Some spring water, much deep well
water and rain water is unfit for guppies to live in, contrary from what
you've probably heard in the past. Improper aquarium cement, silicone
sealer and ornramentation are also potentially lethal through poisoning.
Improper water, caused by any of the above mentioned sources is probably
the number one killer of guppies. TOP
Food Poisoning
A very common, yet oftentimes overlooked cause of death to guppies is food
poisoning. Overfeeding produces fermentation and decomposition; where
insufficient aeration is afforded, the toxins generated by the bacteria
growing in the uneaten food can kill your fish. Food poisoning creates
secondary problems through bacterial growth that can result in fungal
diseases.
Since most people who raise fancy guppie tend to feed from 5 to 10 times a
day, it is important to feed only what your fish will consume in 5
minutes, to make sure that you have adequate aeration and filtration and
to maintain a strong regimen of partial water changes. Doing these things
will virtually eliminate any possibility of food poisoning. TOP
Carbon Dioxide Poisoning
Overcrowding usually accounts for this fate. Too much carbon dioxide given
off, insufficient plants and light to turn it into plant growth, low or no
aeration to help with the carbon dioxide/oxygen exchange in the water, and
the end result is, of course, dead guppies. The effects of this are
usually quite visible by the fish hanging near the surface, gasping for
air. A simple airstone emitting a stream of fine bubbles is all that is
needed to prevent carbon dioxide poisoning. TOP
Dying Plants Poisoning
Under certain conditions, decomposing plants which have died will release
chemical compounds into the water which can kill your guppies. The water
may take on an acrid ordor, which sometimes is so strong you will notice
it upon first entering your fish room. Any trace or hint of an abnormal
odor eminating from your aquaria should set you immediately searching for
the cause. Even algae, being plants, have the potential to kill your
guppies if enough die at one time.
I know that it is a common practice among many guppy breeders to keep bare
tanks without any plants at all. Personally, I have alwys kept potted
plants in all of my tanks, mainly Water Sprite as an indicator of overall
water quality and java moss as an excellent hiding place for newborn
guppies. In my opinion, guppies prefer this environment and they are
certainly more interesting and aesthetically pleasing to look at. Again, I
repeat, the top breeders eschew any plants in their tanks but for me
keeping bare tanks is boring and unattractive. I enjoy watching my guppies
pick at the plants and the bits of food and algae they contain. It's
simply a matter of taste, as to which type of guppy tank you keep. TOP
Household Contaminants
Fly sprays used in the home have killed fishes for as long as they've been
in use. One variety of insect killer, rotonone, will kill guppies in a
dilution of one part in 13,000,000 parts of water. Others are just, if not
more deadly, so never allow anyone in your household to use any of these
sprays to control flying insects. Even if used in another room, or another
floor of a house, they can still be quite deadly to your fishes. In
out-door pools, the killing of fishes by dogs covered with flea powder,
jumping into the pools, or by poison dust or sprays used on bushes,
flowers or vegetable gardens in the area which blows onto the water's
surface, have accounted for many large losses.
Soap and other household disinfectants not rinsed out properly after
washing tanks will kill fishes. Cleaning aquarium glass with improperly
washed containers which may have held soap or scouring powder is a
dangerous practice. Always keep a bucket to be used ONLY for your fish,
and never for any other household chore. Even your own hands which always
seem to be in a tank for one reason or another can be dangerous. Fish have
been killed by reaching into an aquarium without properly rinsing their
hands after they have handled the aforementioned insect poisons, or
treated their pets with a flea and tick compound, or even given them a dry
bath. Oh, by the way. The best way to clean aquarium glass is with
newspaper and white vinegar. Nothing beats it. Stay away from Windex,
Glass Plus and all the other commercial glass cleaning products. They can
cause you trouble. TOP
FUNGUS DISEASES
Fungus grows differently from bacteria and the organisms which constitute
this group do strange things. Some turn into resistant forms called spores
which wait for suitable conditions before they develop into characteristic
and recognizable patterns. Others, like yeast, push out buds which break
off and become organisms. The so-called myceleum threads of some fungi are
most interesting because they produce the effect which we call mold - a
dense thicket of such small threads, that they appear like satin but are
easily crushed flat. Some invade an area and grow what appears to be
slime. Some fungi are motile, that is they have whip-like appendages with
which they propel themselves, much in the same manner as humam
spermatozoa.
Note: The reference fror this section is a bit dated. Although many of
these products and treatments are still helpful and available, there are
new classes of drugs and treatment compounds available at your local
tropical fish store. Once I get the basic information entered, I will
update the material to include the very latest in treatments.
Always remember that it is impossible to effectively treat a sick fish
without first making an accurate diagnosis. Since so many questions on the
LLGH GuppyHelp WWW WebBoard were disease and treatment related, I felt it
necessary to make the completion of this page a priority. I hope it helps
you maintain a healthy aquarium. TOP
Saprolegnia
If on the fishes body, a white slimy, flattish patch appears which seems
to have replaced a part of the fish's skin, it is probably saprolegnia.
Treatment: Isolate the affected fish and disinfect the net. (1) Add two
drops of tincture of metaphen to each gallon of water in the tank to
attempt to destroy the organism. Several other treatments of the sick fish
are also recommended: (2) Salt treatment, (3) heat treatment, (4) Apply
hydrogen peroxide to the spot while holding fish in a damp net. Let it
disinfect for 15-30 seconds before returning fish to the aquarium. Be sure
to re-disinfect the net. (5) Malachite green, (6) Methyline Blue, (7)
Acriflavin. TOP
Mouth Fungus
A very common guppy disease, mouth fungus, kills millions of guppies
annually. From a small whitish area which prevents the fish from closing
its mouth, the whole mouth becomes filled with a spongy-looking
accumulation and the fish dies. If you examine the cottony growth from the
mouth through a microscope, you will find it to be composed of an enormous
number of moving organisms. The growth not only occludes the mouth but
etches away at the tissue. Most people believe that this occlusion
prevents the guppy from eating and therefore the guppy starves to death,
but this is not the case at all. The necessary stream of water through the
mouth and out of the gills can no longer pass and this is what ultimately
kills the fish. Affected fish are extremely listless and hang near the
surface, even in well aerated tanks.
Treatment: (1) Aureomycin, 250 mg. to a IO-gallon tank. (2)
Mercurochrome, 1 drop per gallon, is said to destroy organism. (3)
Metaphen, 2 drops per gallon. TOP
Crown Fungus
When you see tiny myceleum threads radiating upward and outward from a
smallish spot, making what looks like a crown or miniature drawing of the
sun's rays, it is probably crown fungus. The rays may grow an eighth of an
inch long before they are brushed off.
Treatment: (1) Mercurochrome. (2) Touch Spot with hydrogen peroxide. (3)
Aureomycin, 50-100 mg. per gallon and water changed after 3 days. TOP
Fin and Tail Fungus
Sometimes grayish or whitish areas appear on the fins and the tail,
etching out areas and interfering with swimming. This is more prevalent in
fishes kept at temperature too cool for their comfort.
Treatment: (1) Raise the temperature. (2) Hold the fish in a damp cloth
and apply a 1-3 solution of hydrogen peroxide. If the fungus is in the
tail only, let the tail swish in the solution. The dead tissue will slough
off. (3) Mercurochrome. (4) Metaphen in tank or applied directly. TOP
Gill Sickness
Possibly gill inflammation is caused by many organisms. The gills appear
redder than normal and the gill covers, the operculi stand well out so the
gills are visible. The progress of the disease is slow- In older fishes,
emaciation occurs, the fish. may eat, but not well, and it swims about in
an apprehensive fashion. Small fry are lulled quickly. Some experts
believe the disease to be a virus, some bacterial, but the type which
affects most guppies has consistently been a fungus.
Treatment: Since affected fishes are seldom hardy even if they do
recover, it seems best to destroy the diseased fish as soon as they show
signs of the sickness. Treatments which have been tried and have not been
successful in the gill inflammation among guppies are aureomycin,
penicillin, terramycin, hydrogen peroxide. Yet some fanciers have reported
miraculous results with antibiotics, an indication that there are several
causes, some of which are killed by antibiotics and some not. (1)
Metaphen. (2) Mercurochrome. (3) Potassium permanganate. (4) Give fishes
some more room. (5) Try using chlorinated city water, leaving fishes in an
hour at a time. (6) For large fry and adults, the salt treatment. TOP
BACTERIAL DISEASES
Tuberculosis
This disease kills more fishes than is realized because the effects are
generally slow and fishes do not waste as do birds and mammals; they stay
plump until they die. The germ, called mycobacterium piscium, has been
found in many parts of guppies, even in the eyes. You are not likely to
know if your guppies bave the disease even when you find them dead. A
bacteriologist can make the determination for you. Despite the fact that
we keep so many guppies in such small places, tuberculosis does not seem
to spread among all the inhabitants. If it does, it is quite rare. TOP
Bloat
When a guppy shows a roughened appearance from the scales standing on end,
and it appears to be bloated, it may have an intestinal infection which
distends its intestines so greatly that it cannot swim below the surface
without great exertion. Some stay in an upright position.
Treatment: Treatment: Try placing the bloated fish in a solution made of
two tablespoonfuls of Epsom salts and two tablespoonfuls of Turk Island
salt in a gallon of water. Leave it there for 4-6 hours. Then add another
gallon of water and let the fish remain in this weaker solution for twelve
hours before returning it to tank. TOP
Air Bladder Disease
Some fishes with air bladder ailments will appear to settle on the bottom
of the tank and make violent efforts to rise, only to settle down again.
Others, called floaters, rise to the top of the tank and are unable to
swim down. Students of fish diseases tell us that inflamed organs can
reduce the size of the air bladder. Inflammation of the bladder wall also
exerts a disastrous influence.
Treatment: Dissolve a teaspoonful of Epsom salts in a pint of water.
Immerse the fish in it until it almost ceases its efforts to escape and
lies exhausted. Then change the fish to a shallow container in which the
water is not more than three times as deep as the fish is thick. Leave him
in this water in which you have dissolved an antibiotic until he appears
recovered. TOP
Gas Bubble Disease
Bacteria which invade portions of the fish's body sometimes cause gas
which produces lumps. The gas may collect behind the eyes and pop them
forward. The exact cause is not known for certain, but successful
treatments are.
Treatment: (1) Aurcomycin. (2) An old successful method involving the
simple matter of placing the fish in a tank of long-used water. The high
nitrogen content is believed to relieve the condition. TOP
DEFICIENCY DISEASES
Except for vitamin D deficiency, very little is known about fish
deficiency diseases. The very nature of their natural food almost warrants
they receive all the known vitamins, but under artificial conditions they
could conceivably have a deficiency. Mineral deficiencies are doubtless
common, a fact we can determine knowing the inadequate diets often fed to
guppies.
Rickets
A disease caused by a deficiency of calcium or phosphorus or vitamin D;
one, two or all three. A crooked spine and the resulting bend in the
fish's body is the usual evidence, although the unfortunate humpback can
live and even reproduce. It is not a pleasant sight among the fishes of
the aquarium.
Proper lighting can prevent D deficiency; the active rays affect
ergosterol in the skin of the fish and change it to the irradiated form
which is vitamin D. Sometimes whole aquariums will show bent spines but
generally only a few of the fishes are affected. There is no treatment; it
is all a matter of prevention which is primarily a matter of proper
feeding of a complete diet. TOP
PARASITIC DISEASES
In discussing diseases with several of the guppy breeders with longest
experience, their greatest difficulties have been shimmies and "ich', both
most often caused in Lebistes by parasites. Another has been troubled by
velvet and another who feeds a great deal of live food which he collects
from ponds, finds that hydra gives him no end of trouble. There is no
uniformity of experience. Ichthyopthirius (Ich)
The microscopic protozoan parasite is named Ichthyophirius multifilis. It
attaches itself to the guppy and gets inside the layers or under the skin.
There it produces a white spot-sometimes a great many white spots can be
seen on one fish. After a few days, depending on the temperature, it
emerges and falls to the gravel bottom, and becomes a cyst inside of which
hundreds or thousands of tiny parasites develop, eventually released to
swim about in this infective stage. In this stage, they are able to live
no more than ten days without nourishment and then only in cool water. So
you almost never see "ich' on guppies kept at 80 degrees or more in
temperature.
Treatment: Raise the temperature to the 80 -85 degree range. Use any
chemical treatment: (1) Metaphen. (2) Mercurochrome. (3) Methylene blue
will destroy the organism but blues the tank's contents. Anwng my own
guppies, I have never had "'ich' since a uniform temperature of 76 - 80
degrees was maintained. No treatment has been necessary. TOP
Ichthyophonus
Ichthyophonus disease is caused by a small organism, Ichthyophonus hoferi,
which attacks principally the ovary but is also found in other parts of
the fish; causes the fish to become emaciated with a shrunken belly, lose
its appetite and move with shaky unnatural movements (not shimmy). On
post mortem the ovary appears to contain a large number of yellowish-white
knobs up to the size of a pinbead which are frequently mistaken for
tubercles as seen in tuberculosis. The knobs fill the ovary as small ones
grow on the larger. In time, the knobs grow through the skin; if the fish
lives long enough, these can be seen plainly. Affected fishes have been
known to live many months. No cure is known. The best method of control
appears to be to remove all victims at the earliest signs of the
disease.TOP
Gyrodactylus When guppies shimmy and when with careful observation you can
discern a faint whitish abnormality on their scales, the chances are
excellent that they have this tiny leech clinging to their scales and in
their gills. This parasite has caused me more trouble than all other
parasites combined and until I found cures for it, it made guppy keeping
far less fun than it now is. An invasion of gyrodactylus causes a fish to
shimmy his life away. It makes one shudder to realize what is happening,
that is, when one knows the cause.
The parasite reproduces with great rapidity because ofcurious fact. A
young individual becomes sexually mature while still in its mother's
uterus and inside of it may be another sexually mature individual and so
on. Four generations may be found, one inside the other. No wonder they
multiply so rapidly.
The irritation they cause is by their hooks. Each has large (large
considering their microscopic size) pair of hooks with which to anchor
themselves, and, aroundtheir bases, sixteen marginal hooks. The body moves
about standing upright from the base. It can elongate or withdraw in
accordian-like movements. It is the presence of huge numbers which drives
the guppy frantic and eventually kills him.
Treatment: For a slower, but effective cure, use formaldehyde. (2) For
imediate curing use 3% ordinary (drugstore strength) hydrogen peroxide
diluted with an equal amount of water. Catch all the fish in the tank in
one net and dip them for two seconds in the solution. Return them at once
to their home. Only very weak ones will succumb. Those without too many
parasites will be only momentarily affected. It is seldom necessary to dip
a single fish from that aquarium again. This is a drastic cure and is done
at the fancier's risk. Better try it on a few fish first to assure one's
self of the efficiency. TOP
Velvet
A few of these parasites on a fish appear as "ich'. It is when the
infestation is heavy and the numbers of organisms together give a velvety
appearance that the seriousness of the condition becomes apparent. Velvet
is caused by a small yellowish organism called Oodinium linineticum. It
has whip-like flagellium to propel itself and another in a constrition in
its middle.
On small fry velvet is particularly serious. The parasites have root-like
tentacles which penetrate the fish's skin and through which they draw
nourishment from the body. During only the free-swimming, state it is
infective. As soon as it anchors itself, it starts to become pear-shaped;
the constriction about its middle disappears, and it grows to be about
eight times the size of the free-swimnung form. After few days feeding
from the fish, it drops off and divides, as do its descendants, until it
has become almost two-hundred of the free-swimming, infective forms.
Treatment: (1) Acriflavin. (2) Methylene blue diluted as much as
one-hundredth of a grain in a gallon of water, killed velvet, provided the
temperature has been maintained from 77 to 86 degrees. (3) Mercurochrome.
(4) Salt water. Do not remove the fish until all the adult forms have
dropped off. These are the hard forms to kill; the infective free-swimming
form is easily destroyed. (5) Probably simplest-12 copper pennies in a
gallon of water. TOP
Leeches
In introducing pond water to tanks, one is quite likely to bring in a few
leeches. These may be of many species. Some are harmless plant leeches.
Others live in the gravel, come out and move rapidly about in the water,
especially if disturbed. To most persons this species is obnoxious, yet
they do not touch the guppies. In rare instances a young leech may be
found attached to a guppy's side. They have been reported but I have never
seen one.
Treatment: To eliminate all kinds of leeches from a tank, clean it
completely. New water, new gravel, new plants. Leeches are both male and
female in the same individual and need no partner to populate an aquarium
when only one is left. In pouring out the old water, take care to see that
no leechs slid down under the rim made by the top angle iron, or it will
drop back again into the water later on. Any sucking leech clinging to a
guppy must be pulled loose with tweezers. TOP
Fish Lice
This flat creature which lives on fish is a Copepod of which there are
eight suborders, one of which is the argulus with twenty-two species found
in America. The female louse lays from 30 to 200 eggs. The young must pass
through eight transitions or stages before they become adult, a process
requiring about eight weeks. Some are salt-water and some fresh-water
forms. A. versicalor is prevalent in fresh water. It has two sucking
discs, is about a sixteenth of an inch long. In outdoor pools it can
destroy all the fish.
Treatment: (1) Salt water cure. (2) Potassium permanganate added to the
tank at the rate of one-fourth grain per gallon once a week for three
weeks. (3) Pick lice off u>ith tweezers and disinfect the spot. TOP
ABNORMAL GROWTHS
Quite a wide variety of tumors appear on or in guppies. Some are benign,
some malignant. Scientists are much interested in such growths but from a
practical point of view, it is best to destroy affected fishes.
ENEMIES
Hydra
This little creature, anywhere from a third to one inch in length, is
illustrative of how the guppy hobby carries us into related bypaths. Hydra
are often introduced into aquaria with pond water and have become the
"number one" enemies of guppies. To call them animals may seem like
stretching a point if we judge from their appearance. A whole chapter
could be written about them-here only the high spots. The animal attaches
itself with a sticky substance to the glass or an object in the water. It
cannot swim but it can move by a looping movement. The free end of the
body has a conical projection called a hypostome on which its mouth is
located. At its base is a circlet of long tentacles, five to ten in
number. The hydra pulls the fry to its mouth by means of the tentacles,
after interesting devices called menatocystshave caught it. Some of the
menatocysts contain long spines in long rows. The prey is pierced and
paralyzed by the spines which inject poison. Other cells have thread tubes
in them which can lash out and wind around any protuberances on the fry to
hold it securely, aided by a glue-like substance which it secretes. In a
daphnia culture hydra create havoc. Hydra, when at rest, contract into
soft balls. After eating, too, they retract into irregular globular forms.
Because they reproduce both by budding and by fertilized eggs, hydra breed
very rapidly. They are difficult to eliminate from a tank by washing it or
even drying because their eggs have a hard outer shell which resists both
drying and washing. The contents of the shell come to life quickly once
favorable conditions are established.
A heavy infestation of hydra can destroy or retard the growth of many fry
both by killing them and by eating their food which starves them. Hydra
are easily seen protruding from their attachments and swaying about.
Treatment: (1) Hydra cannot stand chlorine or heat. If you have city
water, remove the fish, drain tank and fill with fresh water. Return
guppies two or three days later to the tank. (2) Remove fish, raise water
temperature to 105' for 24 hours. When the water has returned to normal,
return the fish. (3) Use of ammonium nitrite or ammonium sulphate at the
rate of 5 grains per gallon of water will destroy hydra. Dissolve crystals
in small amount of water first, then pour this solution into the larger
tank. In 3-5 days all hydra will be dead, the guppies remaining unharmed
by the solution. TOP
Almost all of the other guppy enemies are introduced unintentionally
along with tubificids, daphnia or live plants. and belong to the insect
kingdom. Nost of them are outdoor enemies, invading pools or large tanks
in which fish are kept. There is no treatment for them that will not
additionally effect your fish, so all you can do is put mosquito screening
over the tanks to prevent entrance by the insects. Here are the principal
insect enemies: Dragon fly larvae, Damsel fly larvae, Dobson fly larvae,
Water scorpions, Water boatmen, Back swimmers, Water tigers which are
larvae of whirligig beetles, Water scavenger's larvae, Predacious diving
beetle larvae and the Giant water bug.
If you are not acquainted with these insects, read about them in a good
book which you may obtain at your local tropical fish store or the public
library.
Information Source - "All About Guppies" by Leon F. Whitney, D.V.M.
Facts
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. How do I know if my guppy is pregnant?
Female Guppy abdomens have a dark spot, called the gravid spot, at the rear of
the female's abdomen. The color is caused by the baby guppies (actually their
eyes) showing through their mother's skin. The darker the spot the closer the
babies are to birth.
Q. How large a tank will I need for 3 to 5 adult guppies?
10 gals for guppies over 2 months of age. 5 gals for babies.
Q. Do I need to use a filter?
You can use simple box filters inside your tanks with marbles to hold down the
filter floss or more expensive outside-the-tank filters..
Q. Do I need to change the water?
Change about 15% to 30% of your water each week with aged water. Most tap water
contains chemicals that can harm the fish. If you age the water for a day or two
in an open container most of the chemicals will leave the water as a gas (which
is why the container needs to be open).
Q. How do I get rid of debris on the bottom of the tank?
Siphon the debris from the bottom of the tank.
Q. Do I need to treat the water?
Age the water at least a day or treat the water with a chlorine/chloramines
remover if you have these chemicals in your water supply. Remember to use an
open container for the water. In an open container most of the chemicals will
leave the water as a gas (which is why the container needs to be open).
Q. What should be the water pH?
The pH should be in the range of 6.8--7.6 (7.0-7.2 is preferable).
Q. What temperature should the water be?
Keep the temperature between 72 to 80 degrees. Hint, breeding is more active in
warmer water.
Q. Should babies be in warmer water?
Keep guppies 0-4 months of age at 78-80, 5-8 months at 75-77 and 9-12 months at
72-74.
Q. How much light do they need?
Provide 10-16 hours of light a day and use an automatic timer to turn your
lights on and off.
Q. When should I feed them?
Feed them as much as they will eat in two or three minutes at least twice a day.
Q. What should I feed new babies?
Babies should be fed newly hatched brine shrimp once or twice a day and/or grind
up adult food between your fingers so they can bite it.
Q. How long do I keep the males with the females when they are young?
Separate male guppies from the females at about 4 weeks of age to avoid
fertilizing the females and ruining your stock.
Q. How many guppies can I keep in a tank?
Twenty to twenty five guppies can be kept per ten gallons (fish that are 5-7
months old).
Q. Should I remove the fish I do not want to breed?
Pet shops will always be happy to purchase the fish you do not want or give them
away to spread the hobby!.
Q. How do I meet others who enjoy guppies?
Join or start an aquarium club and start a guppy group within the club.
Anatomy
Anatomy of the Guppy
WATER LIFE HAS TAKEN MANY FORMS: Boneless blobs of soft protoplasm,
represented by the jellyfish, fishes with backbones and skeletons and even
with such highly developed appendages as wing-like fins, with which they
sail over the waves. The guppy is one of the smaller of the infinitely
varied species of the great fish family. It lives in tropical warm water,
can stand brackish water, and as we have seen, it is a member of the
smaller pike family.
The color of the guppy is due to color spots, microscopic in size, called
melanophores, located in the skin. The number and arrangement of these
color areas is what gives great variation among all but the most inbred
specimens.
Outwardly, the fish we see takes its form from the supporting skeleton.
The vertebral column runs from its head to its tail and is made up of many
separate tiny perforated bones called vertebrae. The head at its anterior
end contains the brain case or cranium. The upper and lower jaws are
formed of bones. Ribs are attached to the vertebrae and protect many of
the vital organs just as they do in ourselves. Fins project from the body
at various points. There are also a hip or pelvic girdle and a shoulder
girdle which help support the fins. A bony plate called an operculum, one
on each side, covers the gills.
The dorsal fin of the guppy is often the fish's crowning glory, standing
as it does straight up from the ridgepole formed by the backbone, or lying
supinely, and often extending, especially in exotic specimens, past the
end of the tail. The pair of triangular fins at the sides are called
pectoral fins, the tail is the caudal fin, the fins along the underside of
the body are named for their positions. Thus we find the ventral pair
called pelvic fins, and the single anal fin which contains double fin
rays, joined so closely as to appear single.
Fins are supported by two kinds of fin rays. One is hard and unbranched,
the other is soft and branched, with segments. Swimming is accomplished
almost entirely by the movement of the fish's tail which propels by making
a sort of figure eight. All the other fins help in guiding, elevating and
descending. Watch any guppy and you will see he guides himself chiefly in
a certain direction simply by turning his body. TOP
The Digestive System
Guppies have teeth in their jaws and in the roof of their mouth as well.
In the mouth there is a tongue. Behind the tongue is the pharynx and on
each side of it we find gill slits which allow water to pass into the gill
chamber. Leading from the pharynx to the voluminous stomach is a short
gullet or esophagus. From the stomach the intestine moves food, being
digested, in a curved route to the anal opening just in front of the anal
fin.
The guppy has a liver which manufactures bile for digestion and a spleen
which helps purify the blood. Digestion is rapid, as witnessed by the
large amount of food which can be handled by a guppy in a day. TOP
Diagram of External Body Parts
(1) mouth, (2) nostril, (3) eye, (4) lateral line, (5) dorsal fin, (6)
caudal fin or tail,
(7) gonopodium (modified anal fin (8) ventral fin, (9) pectoral fin, (10)
operculum covering gills, (11) chin.
Circulatory System
The heart is quite different from that of the mammal. It has two
compartments instead of four, an auricle and a ventricle. Blood is forced
from the ventricle, when it contracts, to the gills where it picks up
oxygen and gives up carbon dioxide. This aerated blood is carried by a
dorsal artery - which divides into smaller and smaller vessels - to all
the body. The blood in the capillaries gives off oxygen and picks up
carbon dioxide and waste which are eventually carried back to the heart
via veins. Besides the veins, other tubes, called lymph vessels, help
carry the blood from the capillaries to the heart where it is again pumped
to the gills.
Gills which serve as lungs, because of their exposed position, are
subject to diseases. Each gill consists of a bony arch which has on its
front surface teeth-like structures called gill rakers and, on its rear or
posterior surface, gill filaments which are always bathed by a stream of
water passing from the mouth out beneath the
Temperature
Temperature Range
Although guppies will live in water from 55 to 105 degrees, just like you,
they prefer something a bit more moderate. The effective range for the
successful keeping of guppies is from 72 to 86 degrees, with 78 to 82
degrees being the most commonly accepted.
Average Temperature
Average temperature? Is there really such a thing. Well, yes and no. If
you were to poll a group of guppy breeders you would get a range of
answers as to what is the "average" temperature at which they keep their
guppies. Although I use many different "set points," I do have a
temperature that I use when I am not trying to accomplish something and I
am using the water temperature as part of the process. I try to keep all
of my tanks at exactly 80 degrees.
Cooler Temperatures
I use cooler temperatures to slow the growth and aging process of fish
when they are approximately 3 to 4 months of age. Generally I will keep
these fish at a temperature of 72 to 74 degrees. This has no ill effect on
the fish and greatly reduces their metabolism. I have had guppies live to
be two years of age at these temperatures and I think anyone would agree
that that's a pretty long life for a guppy.
Warmer Temperatures
For the first 30 days I keep my fry tanks at 84 to 86 degrees. This
greatly speeds up the metabolism of the young fish and makes it that much
sooner that you can sex them and do your first cull. One of the major
problems in keeping your tanks this warm is bacteria blooms which will
oftentimes cause your water to be cloudy and if you are not diligent in
your water changes you will have a greater risk of disease in these tanks.
Also, the warmer the water the less oxygen it will contain, so I generally
have an air stone putting out bubbles at a high rate of speed. Remember,
it is better to have a fine air stone producing many bubbles, as opposed
to a coarse air stone with fewer, larger bubbles. This will increase
oxygen exchange at the water's surface. Another reason for warmer
temperatures is for medicinal purposes. Certain medications suggest
raising the temperature a few degrees and lastly, there is one other time
that I will greatly increase water temperature. If I have a female that
appears to be in distress in attempting to drop her fry, I will slowly
raise the temperature to aid her in the delivery process. I have used this
technique on many occasions with excellent results.
Water
Water Source | You will have to find out about the quality of your water. You may be using well water. If so, it may have to be treated to reduce the iron content and to greatly raise the pH to near neutral. If it is not well water you have to worry about chlorine or chloramine. Remember, contrary to what you may have heard, rain water and distilled water are NOT acceptable for raising guppies. |
Water pH | pH is a measurement of acidity or alkalinity. If your water is 100% acidic it has a pH of 0. If it is 100% alkaline it has a pH of 14. A pH of 7 has no measurable amount of alkaline or acid. The best pH for keeping guppies is pH 6.6 to 6.8. although I can tell you that most guppy keepers don't pay much attention to their pH levels. Since the water in my well is 8.0 I plan to pay a certain amount of attention to it. In my experience, the best way to know if you have good "guppy" water is to keep a few sprigs of Water Sprite in your tanks. If it grows well, more than likely, so will your guppies. Always be careful when adding new fish to your tanks. Bear in mind that guppies can stand a pH shock of 0.2 and anything above that difference could kill your fish. The dead giveaway (no pun intended) for pH shock is when your fish hover at the surface and then go back and forth between listlessness and shimmying. Always check the pH of fish you get by mail order to make sure your pH in the tank is close to what is in the shipping bag. Whenever I am shipping fish to someone, a few days before the actual shipment I send the buyer a postcard noting the pH an DH of the water they were raised in. This helps prevent any surprises. |
Water DH | DH is a measurement of hardness, or, the dissolved salts contained in your water. Rain water and distilled water have too few dissolved salts, and hard water, often referred to as lime water, are both dangerous to your guppies and are useless in attempting to raise them. You should have a test kit which is available from your local pet shop to measure the DH or "degree of hardness," which comes from the German Deutsche Hardness. Your hardness should be between 4 degrees and 10 degrees hardness. If you use gravel in your tanks, be sure to remember that over time it gradually dissolves in the water, building up the DH. If you see a white scum line start to build up at the water line, this is usually caused by distillates, which are a product of dissolved salts. It is an indication that a water change should be performed immediately and you should try to determine the cause of the sudden rise in your DH level. |
Water Treatment | I have always used a commercial water treatment product when setting up a new aquarium, such as Amquel or Novaqua. They are all pretty much the same and there are varying opinions on whether or not they're useful. I don't think they are absolutely essential, but they certainly can't hurt. The only other additive I use in my water is one level tablespoon of kosher salt per gallon of water. This is a good deal more than most people recommend, but I have found it to be the best insurance against many of the most common guppy diseases and my guppies have always thrived in water prepared this way. |
Water Temperature | This is another area where you will hear the pros and cons of certain water temperatures. In general I keep most of my tanks from 78 to 82 degrees. Sometimes if I have a female that's having a hard time dropping her fry I might raise the temperature to around 86 degrees. There is basically one rule of water temperature - the higher the temperature, the faster your guppies will grow and the sooner they will die. The lower the temperature the slower they grow and the longer they live. It's called metabolism and there's no getting around it. I tend to keep my younger fish closer to the 82 degree mark and the older fish at the 78 degree mark. One other thing to remember about higher temperatures is that it can cause increased cloudiness due to elevated bacteria growth. |
Water Capacity | For many years in the aquarium there used to be a rule of thumb that you only kept one inch of fish (not counting finnage) for every one gallon of water. That started long before modern filtration and the regimen of water changes became the standard for raising fancy guppies. Again, if you ask 50 breeders you'll probably get 50 different answers, so again, all I can do is tell you what I do. I will keep up to 100 fry in a ten gallon tank for the first 30 days, BUT, I will do a 10% water change on the tank every single day, religiously. At the 30 day mark I will do a major culling and make sure that I have no more than 50 guppies in the tank for the next 30 days, Again, I will do a 10% to 15% water change every single day. By the time the fish are three months old I will reduce the number to 25 fish and reduce my water changes to 15% every other day. |
Water Changes | This is probably the most important factor in raising high-quality fancy guppies. It is a regimen that you must develop and adhere to if you do not want all of your other efforts to go to waste. In general you should change NO LESS than 25% of your water in each aquarium at least once a week. That is truly a bare minimum. I try to change 20% at least twice a week. It is better to change the water more often at a smaller amount than less frequent but significantly higher amounts. Ideally, when I have the time, I would prefer to change 10% of my water in each tank, every single day. Yes, it's a real pain in the butt, but your guppies will love you for it and reward you by staying consistently healthy and happy. An important note to all you gardeners. Don't pour that water down the sink. I'm having my plumber install a special drain to have the water drain into my flower and vegetable gardens I'll be planting in the spring. The cheapest and best fertilizer you'll ever get is sitting in your guppy tanks. |