Journals Continued
Page 3..............
February 15 cont.
After resupplying and cleaning up at Neel's Gap, I hit two more shelters before getting a ride into Hiawassee GA (up to this point my mileage has been increasing from my first day of seven and a half miles to my last day of 16 miles. Georgia and North Carolina are hard miles. After Hiawasee I stayed at two more shelters before I had to stop at Franklin. NC, mainly because I needed to replace my glasses. I have resupplied with food and fuel and my laundry is done and all my equipment is dry. Tomorrow morning I hope to be shuttled back to the trail at 7:00 AM by a local hiking club member for a club contribution. My goal for tomorrow is to hit a shelter 16 miles out. This is going to depend on how I feel. I have enough food and fuel to get me to my first supply drop at Fontana Dam, NC. I 'm trying to reduce my load so I expect to have stuff to mail home. I'm also losing weight, so I have to replace my pack belt. The pack manufacturer is sending a smaller belt to Hot Springs, NC for me to pick up. I also had an equipment failure on my leg gaiters which the manufacturer is replacing. I'll pick up my new pair at Fontana Dam. Equipment manufacturers are very, very supportive of thru-hikers. My main overriding goal is to get within shuttle distance of Roanoke, VA. by March 30th. I should be able to do that. So far I have had only one small blister. It was a result of two days of rain, wet boots and socks. As soon as I felt the rub, I found a semi-dry location and removed my boots and socks and cleaned my feet with alcohol, out some second skin on the blister and put on dry liners and hiking socks. That took care of that. When your feet get wet, they are more susceptible to blistering. I sure miss my family and am looking forward to taking a break in April. I'm told if I leave the trail, I won't come back. Before my recent down time I was getting into a routine with accomplishable goals. I'm getting stronger and mentally the climbs and descents are leveling out. The descents are harder on my legs and feet. I hope to get to Fontana Dam in 4 or 5 days where I'll resupply and start a 70 plus mile trek through the Smoky Mountains. I won't be able to resupply until I am through the park on the other side. I am excited to get going again. Later - Do-Wa-Diddy P.S. I have read that trail names are unique to the Appalachian Trail. No other trail in the world has this phenomenon. I get chuckles from people when I introduce myself, especially from children. Nobody has ever asked me my real name, and hikers communicate in trail registers by referring to Do-Wa-Diddy. I like it.
February 16, 2001
Cold Spring Shelter 16 miles - 123 total
Bud Colcord, a retired guy about my age, and a local hiking club member shuttled me back to the trail. My $10 shuttle fee was actually my dues to join their hiking club. With my membership I get several newsletters a year. Now, I belong to the Appalachian Trail Conference, The Superior Hiking Trail Association, and my new club (Don't know the name yet) Bud is really a nice guy. He said he was going to hike with me today but he wasn't feeling well. This shelter is a dump! I would put up my tent, but we're supposed to get some serious weather tonight. There's a huge front just west of the mountains and will cross over tonight. Tomorrow's high is going to be today's low, but it's predicted to be sunny. I had mostly forest walking today with one spectacular view. Problem was, I was in the clouds so I could just make out the mountains in the distance. The last mile or so before the shelter was up hill. One of those never ending 16th mile hills. It did me in. Looks like I'll be alone tonight. Tomorrow I will hike 11 miles to the Nantahala River. (Nantahala Outdoor Center) It is a white water rafting center. They have bunkrooms, motel rooms and an outfitter, laundromat, restaurant, everything! I'll check out the bunkhouse. I'm dry and pretty clean, so shouldn't need much. Wind's picking up and sky's getting darker. I seem to be feeling better. Broke my thermometer last night - probably for the best. Later
February 17, 2001 Nantahala River 11.4 miles 134 miles total
I'm staying in a hostel tonight. It's a two bunk bedroom and so far I'm the only one here. Before I talk about my day, let me tell you about last night. Yesterday, I really pushed it so that I would be in a shelter that night. For the past week a strong weather front has been building and heading up the west side of the Appalachian range. I was on the warm side (east side) of the front. Yesterday, I hiked in a t-shirt and shorts and was very comfortable. It was predicted that the front would cross the mountains in the night. When I got to the shelter about 4:00 PM, I couldn't believe my eyes, for what I saw inside. It was wet, muddy, and really stunk -( like ka ka). I cleaned it out the best I could and made a sleeping area for myself. I really expected to wake up with a rat attached to my nose. The storm hit at 7:00 PM and continued until about 3:00 AM (wind and rain). About 4:00 AM I noticed it had gotten a lot cooler and in the morning I had snow. The southern mountain weather is really strange. Today I hiked 11.4 hard miles. Lots of ridges and traversing. One place they call the "jump" because it's straight down. I go very slowly and will start going slower until I get to the Smokies where the walking will be less critical. Today it was cold, sunny with lots of beautiful vistas. When you're on a ridge you can see both ways. Mountain range on mountain range. The next three days will complete this type of terrain. The Smokies are much easier. The only real negative (and it's a big one) is I miss my wife and children very much. I better start getting ready for tomorrow- Later
Feb. 18, 2001 Locust Cove Gap 10.5 miles - 144.6 total
I left Nantahala River hostel about 7:30 AM and walked up a mountain until noon "up"! Had lunch and walked another 2 hours "up". It was an incredible day. Sunny, cold, with great views once I got on top. I'm camping at a very nice campsite that was occupied by a young couple. They were just leaving as I got here. I actually saw people today! As I trudge up these mountains I have my walkman plugged in. I thought I was getting some strange static when I looked up and saw three guys with a chain saw cutting away downfall. Also saw a half dozen back packers, but alone here tonight. I put up my tent and put my liner in my sleeping bag. It's going to get into the low 20's tonight and being in a tent might be a little warmer. Right now I'm sitting on a log in the sun with no wind. Feels really nice - tomorrow I hope to walk 11.5 miles to Cable Gap Shelter and then the next day is 6.5 miles and I'm out of these blasted mountains and into the Smokies. Today when I met the work crew they asked me if I was a thru-hiker. My standard answer is "That's my intent if this old body holds together!" One guy said, "You might as well, the hard part's behind you." Oh God, let's hope so. But there's still the Green and White Mountains. I'm looking forward to seeing them. I have relocated to my sleeping bag and I am going to have a beautiful sunset tonight. One other thing, last night at the hostel, I woke up about 3:00 AM soaking wet, really wet. I think I might have sweated the flu out. In addition, I slept 11 hours last night. I needed every hour of that sleep to get through the day. It's nice and warm in my bag with the sun shining on me. Later,P>Feb. 19, 2001 Cable Gap Shelter 11.5 miles 156 total
Another one of those days ridge walking and a lot of steep ups and downs. Tomorrow is a milestone for me. In the morning I walk 6.5 miles into Fontana Dam. I think I could do those 6.5 miles on my back using my ears to drag myself over this last mountain. I should get in early enough to get my mail drops and the following day when I'm shutled back to the trail I can stop at the post office and mail stuff home, as well as, forward my extra food and fuel. I'm excited to get into the Smokies and start putting some miles behind me. This afternoon I met two southbounders (coming from Maine who started last June). His name is Caveman and hers is Spike. Both looked very healthy and robust, you might say. They told me that the barefooted sisters were behind them. I had hoped I might be able to share this shelter with them. They also are coming from Maine, as well as, a complete family of seven people called "the family from the north". These people have a very interesting story. It's a beautiful evening almost warm, but when that sun sets, it is instantly freezing. I'm looking forward to getting my mail, and hopefully pictures of my granddaughter, Emma. I took my last picture tonight so will send them with this letter and my extra stuff as I have to lighten my load.
Feb. 20 -Feb. 22 The Hike Inn, Fontana Dam, NC
Long distance hiking is a real adjustment for me because of my training and personality. I have always tried to figure out alternative solutions to problems. This activity limits the options you have to solve specific issues. The weather, for example. I am reluctant to start off in the rain. If I'm on the trail and it's starts to rain, I can deal with it, but I won't start the day in the rain. It's hard to dry off, and being wet can be dangerous at these altitudes. Today is one of those days. It is raining now and expected to continue through tomorrow. It is also going to get colder. Friday the 23rd looks the best. It will also give me a few days of good weather to start the Smoky Mountains. The Smokies begin at my mile 162.8, take me over Clingmans Dome (the highest point on the Appalachian Trail at around 7000 feet. The remaining elevations are in the high 5000's to mid 6000's. So, if the weather is bad down here, it's probably worse up there. I come out of the Smokies at my mile 234.7 which equals 72 miles. If I can do 15 miles per day, I can complete the section in five days. I'm carrying seven days of supplies which add a lot of weight to my pack. A couple new things I'm trying. I'm sending my water filter home and am going to rely on "potable aqua" tablets to purify my water (much lighter) Also, I bought a camelbak water bladder that has a hose allowing me to drink more frequently. Two days ago, I was really struggling because I wasn't drinking enough. Hopefully, this should help. I'm sending home my sleeping bag liner (6 oz.) I learned how to distribute the down in my sleeping bag to add or decrease the warmth. Yesterday as I was approaching Fontana Dam, while still high in the mountains, I could see the dam and Smokies in the distance. It was awesome. The Smokies do look dark and hazy, hence their name. I can see the mountains from a small window in my motel room and the view stirs excitement in me. I'm staying at The Hike Inn, which is owned by Nancy and Jeff Hoch and is located 6.5 miles outside of Fontana Dam Resort. Nancy and Jeff are very nice people that have a business supporting AT hikers. Jeff picked me up at the dam, and we stopped at the post office and then the motel. I cleaned up, turned in my dirty clothes, and Jeff took me into town for lunch. Later Nancy took me to Fontana to get my package at the resort and we stopped at the outfitter where I bought a camelbak. Last night they took me into town to do my supply shopping and get dinner. Hikers are well treated here and Nancy and Jeff are dog friendly. Nancy has a cottage business manufacturing "salsa". I tasted it and it has a very distintive and different flavor and very, very good! She has a lot of success in her limited distribution and supply can't manufacture enough to meet demand. Being a retired food process engineer, I can't help but see the potential that exists with this woman's product. This county is the poorest in the state (no county hospital). People have to be creative in order to live in this beautiful setting, hence, The Hike Inn Motel, Jeff's shuttle business serves distances from Atlanta to Hot Springs, and Nancy's salsa business. These people are kind, honest, and hard working. I hope their efforts pay off. I am sending a jar of Nancy's salsa home and expect we'll become regular customers.
Update: Yesterday, when Jeff picked me up at the dam, he was also dropping off the "barefoot sisters". Yes, you guessed it, they are walking the AT without shoes or socks - (barefooted) to complete their walk southward to Springer Mountain. I don't want to be a critic, but they had boots on when I saw them. Also, "the family from the north" just got into town. I don't know what the danger level is north of here, but I am very aware of the potential danger south of here. I heard the youngest member is 2 years old, and another six. I did not hear the other children's ages, but I would be very concerned for small children traveling south through these mountains. That's just me! Later
Feb.23 Russell Field Shelter: 13.2 miles: 176.4 Total
A short review: Tuesday the 20th I arrived at Fontana Dam NC. in the afternoon. It was a great day, sunny and warm. On my way to the pay phone at the dam, to call the motel I saw two young guys that I had shared a shelter with at Springer Mountain. I think they were suprised at my progress. Wednesday and Thursday it rained all day, so I stayed at the motel. Today was the first break in the weather so I got out of town fast. It might rain tomorrow night and Sunday. Today was a climb from Fontana Dam into the Smoky Mountains I left Fontana at morning light (7:00 AM), stopped for lunch about 1:00 PM and arrived at this shelter at 3:00pm. Fountana was socked in with fog/clouds. At about two hours into the climb I walked out of the clouds into the bright warm sunshine. Looking out over the mountains all I could see was the tops sticking out of the clouds. For the next four days I will be walking along the backbone (ridge line) of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park, the most visited national park in the United States. Most of the shelters in the park are equipped with chain link fencing and a very narrow, lockable gate. A precaution aginst bears that want to sleep with hiker, I think.. I've seen very little (none) wild life. Just a few chipmonks, but this morning at 9:30 AM, on my way up, I saw two wild boars tilling the soil. It's amazing how effectively they can plow up the soil with their noses. I had sandwiches for dinner. I'm carrying a jar of peanut butter and "raspberry" flavored honey. Man I enjoy peanut butter. It's 6:00 PM and I'm in my sleeping bag on the top deck of a two deck sleeping platform. Today I saw several people. One man, about my age,who's a section hiker, calling himself "Old Swampy". Three young guys heading for Fontana, and one day hiker looking for trails that his scout troop might like. Looks like I'll be sleeping alone tonight. I'm starting to get a complex.
Feb. 24 Silers Bald Shelter: 14.5 miles: 191 Total:
I started from Russell Field Shelter at 7:30 AM. Russel Field is located on a bald, very accessable to the wind, and it did blow. I'm walking the ridge line of the Smoky's which goes over exposed mountain tops. The wind at this elevation blows hard. It's like it hits the side of the mountain and travels up gaining velocity and at the top it's howling. I would crouch down and hurry over the very tops to avoid being blown off. It was like that all day. I arrived a this shelter at 4:15 PM and found six guys staying here. They were old friends that do a weekend hike once a year. One of the guys was a 1996 thru-hiker. It was nice to have company. These shelters are made of stone and have fireplaces built into one wall. (They are still just three sided) The boys lit up the fireplace and it was a smoker. There was lo's of activity and gear hanging around. These guys had more stuff than I have. Winds blowing hard. I'm cold and tired. I'm going to eat "black bart chili" and go to bed. Hope I don't gas myself to death. It's starting to rain. I just made it. We'll see what tomorrows weather brings. Later
Feb. 25: Silers Bald Shelter: 0 miles:
It's 11:00 AM and boys have gone. They left in a heavy rain, some with rain gear some without. I have decided to wait and see what the afternoon weather brings. I wanted to get through the Smoky's in five days but it might take longer. The trails in this park are very rutted and muddy because of horse traffic, so when it rains the trails turn into mini muddy rivers of mud, getting your boots very wet, very fast. The sky seems to be getting brighter but perhaps that's just wishful thinking. I want to get over Clingsman Dome today. The next shelter (Mount.Collins Shelter) is eight miles and should take me about four or five hours. Tomorrow's weather is predicted to be dry and colder. I'll write more later. It's 12:30 PM and I have made, what for me, is a hard decision. I'm staying here another night. If I leave now I will get to the next shelter about 6:00 PM, wet and cold. Tomorrow I have to go. I have enough food for six days and now I'm looking at all of that to get through this park. Hopefully, the rain will stop later this afternoon and dry out the trail a little. I'm in my bag looking out through the chain link fence. (bear protection) It was interesting talking with the 1996 through hiker last night. His wife is a teacher and he was a corporate pilot. After their hike they moved to Erwin, Tenn., which offers them access to the mountains. He sells real estate and has rental units. I asked him what he took away with him after his hike. He said he and his wife had restored their faith in people. He said both of them had been into money and that didn't seem so important anymore. I enjoyed talking with him. (nice guy). I think the rains stopping so maybe things will dry out a little. Later: Well, about 3:00 PM the sun came out allowing me to dry out my equipment, I hung everything over bushes, especially concerned about my sleeping bag. So today wasn't a total loss. I also have quite a view from my front yard. I made tomorrow's lunch and my dirty but dry clothes are ready to go: I have clean dry socks, dry boots and a dry pack. Man I'm ready to go... I will head for Icewater Spring Shelter. Just heard the weather report for tomorrow and it's a go. It's about 16 miles to the next shelter taking me over Cingmans Dome, almost 7000 feet. Later...
Feb. 26: Icewater Springs Shelter: 16 miles: 206 total:
Late yesterday afternoon two thru-hikers joined me. "Tacoma Dan" and "Captain Bivy". (a bivy is a big waterproof sack that goes over your sleeping bag. A very basic tent) I left my two roomates at 6:45 AM and got to Clingsmans Dome around 10:30 AM, Went up to the observation overlook and was treated to a complete 360 degree view of the Smoky Mountains. There's a road up to the observation structure allowing for public access, but I was the only one enjoying the fantastic view. It was cold and very windy so I didn't stay long. The trail off the mountain was very icy so I took it slowly and carefully. I crossed US highway 441 at Newfound Gap, about 14 miles from Gatlinburg TN. at about 2:30 PM. Newfound Gap has a very large overlook with bathrooms etc. There were lots of people enjoying the mountain views. A young guy stopped me and asked if I were walking the AT. He had a bunch of questions and pretty soon we had drawn a crowd. (funny) On my way up the mountain from the gap I met a young couple from England (on their honeymoon) (There is another overlook further up the trail that the more adventurous can walk to) During our converstaion they learned I was walking the trail and I had my picture taken with the bride. I arrived at Icewater Springs Shelter about 4:00 PM, very tired. I have four other shelter mates tonight. One is a very interesting youg man named Israel (real name). He had his BA degree in food service and supervises food service inmates in a SC. prison. Later..
Feb. 27: Tri-corner Knob Shelter: 12.6 miles: 219 total:
I started this morning at 7:15am after enjoying a spectular sunrise. I told Israel that would be quite a picture and I didn't even consider taking one myself. Go figure. I wanted to get to the next shelter before it started raining so I guess that clouded my thinking. I continued to walk the ridges. It's beautiful but unnerving. I have come to conclusion that I'm not real comfortable with heights. At times the ridge trail was three or four feet wide. Once I stopped at a narrow part of the trail and looked down "BIG MISTAKE". Straight down on both sides. For a moment I had second thoughts about crossing. After that esperience I would cross the narrow sections focusing on the trail at my feet and occasionally check out the edge of the trail out of the corner of my eye. It was a beautiful walk. I had lunch on a narrow portion of the ridge, which had a big rock I could lean against. I had views in both directions. It's like endless mountain ranges going on and on. It started raining shortly after I arrived at this shelter. I'm sixteen miles from the end of the park and could make it, if the rain stops. If it's still raining tomorrow morning, I think I'll try and get to the next shelter ( 8 miles) leaving me eight miles the following day. I have some food left but not much. My appetite is out of control. I must really be burning up the calories. Tonight I ate my remaing sausage, an alpine-air freeze dried dinner for two, and two packets of oatmeal (in that order). If I would have had more food I could have kept going. My backpack belt is starting to slip over my butt, putting the pack weight on my shoulder straps, which digs into my shoulders. I'm getting a new belt shipped to me in Hot Springs. My first stop after the park is a small hostel/store named Mountain Mama's. I can resupply with enough food to get me (3 days) to Hot Springs NC. One other thing: For the last several days my left walking stick has been in Tennessee and my right stick in North Carolina. The trail is exactly on the state line.. I can add another state to my progress, GA. NC. & TN. Later.....
Feb 28: Mountain Mama's Kuntry Store and Bunkhouse: 17 miles: 235 total:
I made it through the Smoky's in February. It was an incredible walk. I felt I was on top of the world. As I got closer to the north end of the park I started seeing more hikers. College kids on spring break, I think. Today was my biggest milage day but not my hardest day. The last five and half miles was downhill. Downhills are much harder on me physically. I would prefer uphills- they're easier on the body but they take longer. My trip, this early in the season, has very cool temperatures, which help during my walking time and hurt at night. Last night I slept at over 6000 feet and during the night it rained turning the trail into ice. As I got lower the trail turned into mud. I perfer mud. Tonight, I'm sleeping at a rural business that has a bunkhouse for hikers. $14.00/night which includes a hot shower, towel, wash cloth, and soap. That's about all I'll say about this place. They do have limited supplies which will enable me to get to Hot Springs, hopefully in three days. Tomorrow morning I have a big climb. While cleaning the garbage out of the shed I slept in (half a garbage container full) I found a map. I wish I hadn't. The contour lines for tomorrows walk are best described as a wide black line. For those of you that understand contour lines, you will understand what that means. I would rather go uphill versus downhill. That only changes when I'm going uphill, than I would rather be going downhill. (funny how that works). It's 8:45 PM. The electrical breaker powering the shed lights just tripped or the management decided it was time for me to go to sleep. I'm using my headlamp to finish this. I could mail this journal tomorrow (from this place) but will wait until Hot Springs then I know it'll get home. Later.....
Groundhog Creek Shelter: 9.3 miles: 244.3 total:
During my conversation with the 1996 thru-hiker at Silers Gap Shelter on 2/24 the guy mentioned the walk up from Mountain Mama's would be hard and he was right. It was about five miles before I saw level ground. I did a little road walking today and crossed a river on a car bridge and walked under an interstate highway. It turned out to be a beautiful day allowing me to dry out again. It doesn't have to rain to get my stuff wet. When I finish hiking for the day I'm completely wet from perspiration so the first thing I do is change into dry clothes and hang my wet stuff out to dry. My sleeping bag is down, so keeping it dry is vital. I get it wet just using it, so I hang it out to dry every opportunity I get. My experience at Mountain Mama's was better today. Last night I washed my long underware top (which I wear everyday) along with my black North Face vest (thanks to Andy and Stacy) anyway, it didn't dry last night so I had to put a wet, cold, shirt this morning. It's surprising how fast it dried while wearing it, but the experience was painful. I don't ever remember having to use a knife to eat pancakes, but this morning it was the only way to reduce the size of the cakes to an edible size. They sure were filling and really sucked up the syrup. I kept looking under the cakes to see where the syrup was going but I never found it. Big mystery. I'm at a beautiful site. Lo's of pine trees with a small creek in front of the shelter. Nobody here yet but that can change. Tommorrow I'll walk 11.3 miles to Roaring Fork Shelter and then 14.9 to Hot Springs. Hot Springs has a therapeutic hot spring and I might just try it out. I will arrive in Hot Springs on Saturday afternoon, too late to get my stuff from the post office. I'm expecting gaiters from Campmor, a smaller pack belt from Gregory, food and a cell phone from Midge. Yes, I've changed my mind about carrying a phone. I have decided to take on the extra weight for the security of the phone. I hadn't expected to be so alone during this walk and if I get hurt it might be the only way to get help. I seem to be in my own little world. I'm behind the faster hikers and ahead of the slower ones. ( A small fact: I'm the 26th thru-hiker leaving Springer Mountain this season. per the register in Neels Gap.) The sun's starting to go down and so's the temperature. The shelter register says there are rats in this shelter. (great, huh!) Later..
March 2. Roaring Fork Shelter: 11.3 miles: 255.6 total:
Woke up this morning to a constant drizzle. I walked in the rain untill I hit the highlight of today's trip called Max Patch which is a high grassy bald with a 360 degree view. I hit it in a roaring wind and driving rain, testing my extreme weather gortex gear. Most of my day was spent in a 30 to 40 foot diameter hole. The mist/fog/clouds were so closed in it was like I was traveling in this small opening. I could only see a small distance and almost lost the trail once. Man, if you got off the trail in this crap you'd be in trouble. Best thing would be to just sit down and wait for it to clear, or risk walking off the mountain. Last night I turned off my headlamp at 7:30 PM and didn't regain consciousness until 5:30 AM. Must be the result of my night at Mountain Mama's bunkhouse. At about 12:30 AM I heard something or somebody walk up on the little porch of the shed I was sleeping in. The rest of the night I spent reading. Tomorrow's weather is suppose to be more of the same. I'm walking into Hot Spring for a major clean-up. It will have been 9 days since I've had an opportunity to thoroughly clean and check out my gear. So far I'm happy with my equipment choices. I'm using chemicals to purify my water (sent my pump home). Most of my water comes from springs directly from the mountain. If I can identify the source I feel safe drinking it without treating it, otherwise, I treat all my water. I'm developing a problem with my new Vasque boots. 200+ miles on the AT and the soles are starting to separate from the boot. It must be defective adhesive. Anyway, I hate the thought of breaking in a new pair on the trail and I don't know of a boot fixer nearby. I'll try and get by until I go home in late March and then contact the retailer or possibly the manufacturer. I'm not sure why but I think tomorrow's going to be a good day. I'm here alone and trying to dry out a little. It's a nice shelter with a biff (toilet). Sombody cares about this place they even put some fire wood inside to keep it dry. I have gained a new appreciation for the term "bible belt". In several shelters I have found bibles. At first it concerned me, I thought there might be religious zealots in the woods, but it's just the bible belt. People's faith is openly expressed in normal conversation which is different than in the community I live in. Later...
