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Nairobi – we have arrived – still caked in mud – but in one piece and with our vehicle – which is quite an accomplishment considering the circumstances!

We arrive in rush hour traffic (so what’s new) and head for the campsite that Mike had told us about - off Langata Road. Not knowing the name of the place or the name of the road did make it difficult. We did find a delightful place with lovely gardens which we decided must be the place and boldly drove down the long single lane driveway – only to be stopped at the main gate by a security guard who told us it was a private residence, by this time a chaffer driven car was behind us, and the man of the house was trying to get home! He was gracious enough to allow us to drive through his property in order to get out!

Rangi’s Site – S01:20:147 E036:46:536 – 5 912 ft amsl – Next road after Mobil on the right hand side Number 16 – 18/06/02

Finally we found the un-named place! This place is an absolute gem, although expensive it has everything that an overlander would want or need. From steam high-pressure washes to garages, tailors, etc you name they do it! The food was excellent! It is a favourite haunt of the big overland trucks like Dragoman etc. The high-pressure wash must have taken off at least 50 kgs of mud that had set like rock on MR W’s undercarriage. MR W cleaned up pretty quickly considering and went up at least 2.5 cm on the suspension. It took Dennis and Sue a few showers before they started to look respectable. As for our bedding, clothes etc, the ladies at Rangi’s did a marvellous job – thanks!

We met some fabulous people, all with a common interest in Africa. Gleaned advice from those who had the ‘t-shirt’ and generally had a great time socializing. Cliff was a star and was always available to assist when Dennis got stuck with fixing things on MR W! We appreciate you Cliff – thank you.

Dennis decided that he would fit the odo cable himself – and why not! Off to Toyota to order the part – they only have stock in Mombassa, but they would get it sent up – it would be here Friday – okay!

Went to DHL and collect MR W’s licence – thank you Lynne you are a lifesaver. Took a ride round the shops to see where best to stock up and went to visit our favourite French Bakery! Also looked everywhere for sandals to replace the ones the mud ‘ate’. Bata have a good shoe, only problem, for Sue one size too big and for Dennis one size too small! Can you believe it! After much searching and no luck settled for them anyway.

With fear and trepidation we headed for to Rob’s Magic to have the wheel balancing done – every time we go there it costs us big bucks! Mike was pleased to see us, and happy to hear that the shocks had withstood all our adventures. The wheel alignment was not that far out, but the problem was the steering damper had gone – last bit of OME besides the springs! Mike replaced it – and we did not bother going to OME!

We also needed to replace a ‘wheel gasket thingy’. Thank you Mike for all your help and good advise – we appreciate the time you have taken with us. While waiting at Rob’s Magic we met an ex South African – Mark Leslie. After chatting and sharing ideas and experiences he invited us to lunch at his place! Talk about excellent people!

Dennis did a brilliant job of replacing the odo cable – well done! MR W is once again in good nick! We went to church on Sunday morning – it always is very refreshing being able to celebrate with fellow believers, and then onto Mark; and Henka’s place.
It was brilliant being in a home – like we know home – again! Lunch was excellent and the company brilliant! Thanks guys very much – hope you enjoyed your trip back to South Africa. Looking forward to meeting you in Cairo! Take care!

On our last day in Nairobi just as we were about to leave we are stopped by a traffic cop in Langata Road, he went through everything until he eventually found a piece of paper that we did not have! Den pleaded and begged and finally the cop allowed us to go to get some money from the Ya Ya Centre – did he really thing we were coming back – I don’t think so! Mark had warned us that it was getting close to month end and they guys top up their salary in this way. We were lucky to get let off.

Bought the funny size shoes, a new digital camera at an exorbitant price (ours is not fixed yet, and we felt we missed so much in Uganda, that we could not be without it) – the real test will come when we are hungry – will the pictures satisfy? We dashed out of Nairobi – as we are concerned about being stopped by the traffic police again! In our dashing we take a wrong turn at one of the traffic islands and head out to the bundu – and ended up returning to Nairobi! What do they say – less haste more speed! Finally, we are on the correct road and heading for Isiolo. Mark had told us about a brilliant place to stay but as we passed it, we realized it was too far out of Isiolo for us to catch the morning convoy. Maybe next time! We spent the night at the Range Land Hotel about 10 kms out of Isiolo.

Range Land Hotel – Isiolo – N00:17:535 E:037:33:485 – 4 135 ft amsl

The place is pretty basic – it has had better days, but it was convenient. Up at 5.00 am – 4.00 a.m. to normal people and headed for the convoy barrier. Our idea of convoy and the real thing are two very different ideas. At the barrier we had to fill in a register and then we were on our way! That was it. A couple of trucks passed us with passengers and livestock, also some with military personnel – other than that you were on your own! .

The road from Isiolo to Marsabit is 260 kms of the roughest road we have ever encountered! It is an absolute disgrace to the nation of Kenya! The road is badly corrugated and if you drive fast – 60 kph you risk being shaken to death and if you go at 10 kph you just prolong the agony! We had a puncture about halfway – we had to stop and fix it as quickly as possible – so that the rebels did not attack us! We were sitting ducks!

The trucks did stop and ask if they could help, but were soon on their way again. The area is arid, and desolate, with very few villages and yet the people, the Samburu are the most colourful we have ever seen. They wear incredible beaded headdresses with feathers and different coloured beads. They also dye their hair. The men in particular are very majestic and pride themselves in their appearance. They are herders and there were many goats, cattle and sheep in the area. This is a very harsh part of the country, and greatly contrasts with the rift valley areas.

Kenyan Wildlife Services – Marsabit National Park- N02:19:230 E037:59:637 – 4 430 ft amsl – US$2 pppn and 200 Ksh for MR W – 25/06/02

Finally we arrived very shaken to the little town of Marsabit. We decided to spend the night at the Kenyan Wildlife Reserve there, they have two campsites, one with a shower and one without. We took the one with the shower. The place had a terrible smell but we were too tired and shaken to care. Also the ablutions were disgusting, so we just had our own bucket washes. Later that evening we found out why the place had such a foul smell – it was the ‘baboon conference centre’. We have never seen so many baboons! They settled down at dusk in the nearby trees and then spent the night using our car and tent as their toilet! We know what the bottom end of a long drop feels and smells like! Well having made that big mistake, we still have to stay another night as we are waiting for Henri and Jenny. We moved our vehicle and cleaned up as much as we could.

Dennis repaired the punctured tire, and managed to get someone to weld the winch bracket that had snapped with all the shaking.

This is the last day for our vehicle documentation in Kenya and we have to leave – still no sign of Henri and Jenny. We had left enough messages in the town for them, but it appears that they had not arrived!

Another bright and early departure, with the same rigmarole of filling in the book and off we go for another 250 kms of hell! The road was not worse – that was not possible but it was not much better. Another flat to add to our fun! Yup – this is the life!

Arrived at Moyale Kenya at lunchtime – to find that everything closes – including the custom post, so we had to wait an hour or so! Finally, we bid farewell to Kenya and headed across the road to Moyale Ethiopia. First to greet us was the ‘keep right’ sign. We have to drive on the right hand side of the road from now on – this should be fun – especially at intersections and islands! The border formalities were a little strange to us, but eventually we managed to get everything done – total cost US$1! Amazing! We had to give them a list of all our digital equipment with serial numbers, which had us scratching through all our stuff to prove the serial number! Oh boy!

Once all the formalities were done, we placed the Ethiopian flag on the door with the others to much delight of the gathered crowd.

Borena Moyale Hotel – Moyale Ethiopia – N03:23:117 E039:02:786 – 3 810 ft amsl – 25 Birr pn – 27/06/02

We found the hotel that Magda and Mike spoke about, and were made most welcome. We were able to negotiate a good rate, so were quite happy. We tried the local dish of Injera and Wot (they did not make it very spicy as we are foreigners), it was horrible! Next day tried again – this time asked for the hot wot and that was much nicer. The meat in the wot was goat and it is very tough, but not bad tasting! We are going to have to get used to it as that will be all that will be available soon.

On the subject of goats, when we arrived there was one goat in the compound which bleated all night! Next morning it disappeared (dinner) and it was quiet again. In the afternoon they brought in two goats, a female who was on a rope and fighting every step, and a male without a rope – blissfully following the female – happy as a lark! Next day the female met the knife and then did the male perform! He pined and bleated for her non-stop! What a night!



Bird flew into a window and knocked itself out – saved by ‘Dr Doolittle’

There was a mosque across the road, with a very zealous Muzzedin who started up at 4.00 am and insisted on giving 4 hour lectures over the loudspeaker at the top of his voice! We felt like having our bacon and eggs on his doorstep! It really got us down and eventually we ‘beat’ him – we played our CD’s Christian and rock music as loud as was necessary to drown him – much to the amusement of the locals!

Sue took a walk to the milk and goat market, it was a very interesting sight. Being a foreigner causes quite a stir! Locals all chat amongst themselves and the boys boldly call ‘ferengie’ whilst the girls shyly wave from under their scarves! Some men took the opportunity to practice their English! One gent had a bash at his English and then as he was leaving said ‘where’s my f***ing change!’ gave a cheery wave and was on his way!

Next time we went to the market we went together, soon we had a large following of children and interested bystanders. Not all foreigners are welcome, and Sue was hit in the back with a potato! Some things never change!

We waited for a few days for Henri and Jenny and still there has been no sign of them. We are beginning to get worried about them. We have left many messages so they could not have got lost!