EXPEDITION

The are several different routes to reach the peak. We are planning to take the Normal route up, and by doing so we have several different ways to go and camps to stay at. This is a description of the Normal route, and our plans so far to reach the peak. To see a map, click at the photo to the left.

From Confluencia we can do a hike up to Plaza Francia for acclimatization. Plaza Francia is the base camp if you are doing the South wall. On this climb we will have a nice view over the glacier. It will be a hike of about 20 km and 1000 meters in altitude.

From the park entrance to Plaza de Mulas we can hire mules to carry some of our gear and food. But from this point up we have to carry the equipment we need on our own. Many people go up the next section twice. The main reason is to bring up food and gear, and adjust to the altitude. It's a long day’s hike to Nido de Condores, a middle station and maybe our Camp 2. After this probable tough climb up, we might need a day to rest before carrying up the rest of the equipment. It all depends on how tired we are and how we are doing in time.

From Canada we will continue up to Camp 2, Nido de Condores, where we hopefully left some food and gear from the day before. Nido de Condores is lying in the pass between Aconcagua and Cerro Manso at 5350 meters. Here many climbers take another rest day. However I’m actually not sure how much resting it will be. By this point it will be incredibly cold, so the resting will mainly consist of stumbling around at the camp to keep warm. Some teams have Nido as their last camp, and after some acclimatization hikes they scale all the way to the top. It does seem a very long hike to me, but many people have recommended me to do so.

At this altitude our expedition will hopefully have the time to stay for a couple of days for acclimatization. From this point two alternative routes are possible: the first one is to scale all the way to the summit, an exhausting climb in itself. The second one is to reach refuge Independencia (6500 m) and from there, on the following day, go up to the top. The first alternative is the most usual, but we are very likely to be caught by the darkness of night on our way down. It might be hard to find the right way down, because apparently it is really easy to get lost up there in the best of conditions. It does seem strange to get lost on your way down from a mountain peak, but there are several additional small peaks around the main one. Add to this the darkness and bad weather.

Whereas the alternative of staying at Independencia (6500 m), though implying shorter journeys, has the disadvantage that it may become very rough to stay overnight at this altitude. It will be extremely cold, windy and sleeping at such a high altitude is never easy. It doesn’t make matters better being aggravated by the fact that the refuge is half in ruins. In fact I’ve heard that almost all of the shelters are close to impossible to sleep in. One small person, who doesn’t suffer from claustrophobia, might be able to squeeze in. However in any case, due to the numerous expeditions trying to reach the peak, we will need our tent.

When we are coming down there is a natural predisposition to follow the route of the Gran Acarreo, but this way deviates from the camps. There is no natural predisposition against eventual storms. If there is a tempest, it will be suicide for us to go down following the way of the Gran Acarreo, hoping that we can do it more rapidly. I've read that there is no natural defense where you can wait under protection until the storm is over. Ascending and descending we will most likely follow the rock of the Northwest. There we will find the shelters. If our physical condition is good in the ascension, we can calculate 20-40% less time for the descent. However if we are very tired after the ascension, this calculation is wrong because at these heights, recuperation is not possible. We will probably need the same time for coming down as up. This northern route does not present technical difficulties, but we can meet such difficulties as unbearable coldness, tiredness and storms of an incredible force. Mother Nature showing her worst side.

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Clothes and Gear

While writing this it’s the beginning of July 2001. I’m at my parent’s place by the ocean in South of Sweden. People are laying on the beach, playing beach volleyball, swimming or having late lunches in the shade.I’m thinking about – 30 C, and what gear and clothes I will need for Aconcagua in January. When it is +30 C (as it is today) its really hard to think about winter clothing and being cold!

We are discussing sleeping bags, tents and what type of boots we will need. Well actually we are still not agreeing on the boots issue. The thoughts and facts written here are just the beginning of my knowledge and research. However I did create the first draft of an equipment list today. Most of which is based on the one I have on my gear site at Trek Mountains.

Clothing is nothing more than a storehouse of air surrounding our bodies, whose interior temperature will rise due to the energy that the body radiates, regulated by the circulation of the blood at that moment. We should do away with the idea that the equipment gives us heat by itself, it merely retains and isolates the heat—we ourselves create it and heat ourselves. This doesn’t mean the clothes aren’t an important part to survive up there.

Boots
Well, back to the boots discussion. I’ve come to the conclusion that my “Maindl's Island Lady” will not be enough. I want to buy one of those double climbing boots of plastic or leather. They should have a home made layer of closed-cell insulating foam- such as neoprene. During the night I want to be able to dismantle the boots, allowing them to dry off. Also it is convenient to put the exterior and interior boots inside the sleeping bag.

Both Julia and Malin have now bought double climbing boots and are trying to hike in them as much as possible before we take off.

Mats
I got a new thick mat for my birthday. Insulating mattresses of closed-cell foam are absolutely necessary for the cold, uncomfortable nights at high altitude. They noticeably reduce heat loss by conduction. We’re also thinking about bringing two pads to reduce the cold coming from underneath.
Tents
The tent is an important part of our gear, maybe one of the things we really have to be able to trust. It must be able to take all the things winter camping involves; bad weather, snow and some rough winds. Though these 4 season tents or Expedition tents are very expensive. You’ll have to pay US $ 500-800.

Both Julia and Malin have their own tents already, though they are too small and wont be able to take the weather of Aconcagua. Our first plan was to rent a tent and that would cost about US $ 250.

However we have now found a sponsor. The Swedish outdoor company A-one will sponsor us with an Alpine-2 tent. It's a four season tent. Visit their website at A-one.se

Sleeping bag
You need to have a sleeping bag that can take about – 30 C, and this is one of the things we actually don’t need to buy.
Other
I’ve read that gas stoves with cartridges are very practical and reliable. Their use is very convenient and does not require prolonged manipulation to run. There is no risk of fuel leakage or odor. Another thing I’ve read was to bring aluminum foil to put around the stove to keep the heat localized. The energy and time saving is considerable. It is also a good idea to have several combinations of cooking pots. Having more than one allows cooking and eating at the same time. On the other hand it will take up space, and you want to carry as little as possible. We will need to buy plastic bags and it also seems convenient to have a big nylon bag with snow near the tent. A one-liter capacity thermos flask is very practical during the walk as well as a plastic water bottle with a wide mouth. Also an insulated water bottle cover, I learned that mistake at Kilimanjaro.

To make it easier to sleep it might be good to bring ear plugs. It's most likely going to be windy as no tomorrow at the higher camps. Ear plugs will take away some of the noise.




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Equipment list

This is just for the mountain. The clothes for Santiago and Mendoza are not included here, because we will not bring them on Aconcagua. This is also just what Malin wants to bring.

Personal equipment

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Clothes

Upper body


Inner


• Two syntetic linen (First one)
• One synthetic long underwear sweater. (nike)
• One wool underwear sweater (Janus)

Middle

• One wool underwear sweater (Janus)
• One pile jacket. (White Everest anorak)

Outer

• Down jacket (Peak Performance)

Lower body


Inner


• Two tight synthetic boxers (First one)
• One pair thinner synthetic long underwear (MTB).
• 2 pair wool long underwear (Janus)

Outer

• One pair Gore-Tex pants (Everest).

Hands


Inner

• Wool mittens (Two pairs if I can fit in my pack)
Middle

• Thick wool gloves (Lovika)

Outer

• Skin gloves. (White Swedish army gloves)



Feet


Inner

• 3 pair thin wool socks (Janus)
• Plastic bags for insulation.

Middle

• Two pairs midweight wool socks (Janus)

Outer

• Plastic double boots (Scarpa Vega)
• Gaiters (Outdoor design, Alpine)

Head

• Scarf

• Thick windstopper cap (Northface)
• Neoprene face mask (from the army)
• Sun glasses
• Ski goggles

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Sleeping

Sleeping bag -30 degree rating (Ajungilak)
Ensolite pad Mc Kinley
Ridgerest


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Glacier travel

Crampons (Cassin Eiger)


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Other personal items

Expedition sized pack
2 Wide-mouth bottles
2 insulated water bottle cover
Fork
2 Cups (one for drinking one for eating.)
Pocket knife
Lighters and matches
Toilet kit -as small as possible
Strong sunscreen(4-6 oz per person)
Lip sunblock
Foot powder (especially if using VBL socks)
Diary and pen- as light as possible
Camera, film and accessories
Extra stuff sacks
Accessory straps (for lashing gear to packs)
Headlamp and extra batteries and bulbs
Watch
Ear plugs
Air temperature thermometer


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Group gear and supplies.

Tent (A-one)
Stove (Primus Himalya mulitfuel)
Fuel
Water purifier
Cooking pots
Pot grips
Map
Compass
GPS
*Repair kit
*Medical kit
Toilet paper (two rolls/person)
Large heavy duty garbage bags
Food
Snow shovel
Ice axe

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Medical kit

Go to Trek Mountains Medical site

Aspirin
Strong pain killer
Moleskin
Large Band-Aid type bandages
Sterile gauze pads
Carlisle dressing (thick absorbent dressing)
Adhesive tape
Elastic bandage
Triangular bandage
Roller gauze
Diamox (for altitude)
(Decadron for treatment of moderate to severe altitude illness)?
Asthma medicine
Stomach medicine
Puritabs


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Repair kit

Needles of assorted sizes,
Sewing thread
Speedy sticker with extra needles and extra strong thread
Wire
Duct tape (my favorite, it will fix anything!)
Spare parts for stoves, crampons...
Strong cord





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Training

It’s said that being well trained has nothing to do with how you will manage the altitude. The best age to climb high altitude mountains is actually between 30-45. This does not mean that you don’t have to be fit doing a climb like this. Being on a mountain as an unfit person is not a very wise idea. You are walking miles, after miles uphill, with heavy backpacks. Then add the altitude, which makes you so tired and slow. If you ask people (especially guys) they have a tendency to say they are well trained. Though playing tennis twice a week or working out in the gym twice a week is not being well trained. Or even worse is to say that you have a good “base condition” and you can easily get back into the shape you were 4-5 years ago.

Sure, you might be fit enough to get you through a spinning class, a two-hour jog or an Ice-hockey game. That sort of training involves maybe 2-3 hours work. Up on a mountain we are talking about 10-12 hours trekking in uphill with backpacks, for days in a row. To train for this you need to do a lot of long distance and many hours of work out.

We all have our own ways to train for this. Since we don't live in the same country we won't be doing any training together. We are all pretty used to long distance training and walking with heavy back backs. We know what it takes and the most important part to focus on, will be summit day.

It's hard to train yourselves for the weather, coldness or the thin air. You can never know how you will cope with any of that. We will have to be as prepared and well trained as we can be, which we all intend to.

Team SCALE have through internet gotten in contact with the 5th grade at Frankfurt International School in Germany. They are learning about Expeditions around the world through different times. SCALE are helping them with information and their thoughts about the SCALE Expedition.

Check it out here




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Itinerary

Our itinerary is progressing, and our flights are finally booked.

We will fly to Santiago, because it’s longer and more expensive to go from Buenos Aires to Mendoza and it's more expensive in Argentina than in Chile. However Malin have had real problems getting a flight tickets. At first she booked a flight leaving the 28th going to Santiago. Then Malin decided she wanted to change it because everything got so delayed and she felt it didn’t give them enough days up on the mountain. At one point Malin lost all her tickets, however after a few panicked minutes she got tickets with Swissair the 26th of December. Though lately Swissair is having some problems and Malin has now booked several different tickets with Lufthansa, Air France, Swissair... We still don't know which airline it will be or if she will land in Buenos Aires or Santiago. Either way she'll be in Mendoza on the 27th of December.

From Santiago there are several busses going to Mendoza, and it is apparently a beautiful bus ride too, passing Puente del Inca and Punta de Vacas. There are even night buses if we are in a hurry.

The days used to ascend Aconcagua are hard to plan. We don't know how the weather will be or how well we will adapt to the altitude. Of course we have a plan, which is better explained under "Our Route". As we plan and think about this during the fall, this itinerary will most likely change as we gather more information. We have several options on acclimatization hikes and resting days. From the park gate we can hike up directly to Mulas and stay there, or take it slower and stay one night at Confluencia. Another dilemma is where to sleep during the last nights before our summit push. Nido, Berlin or Independencia?

We can never know how many days we will need to ascend Aconcagua. Here we have added as many days as possible to ascend. In other words, we don't know when exactly we will head back to Santiago.