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                Farmhouse about
                 35 years ago
 



 

        A Trip to
"THE FARM"

             
by
  Bill Fidler

     (son of
Loyal W. Fidler,
grandson of
George E. Fidler)


   


When
I was a youngster growing up in Elkins we always looked forward with great anticipation to our trips to "the farm", that is, Grandpa Fidler's place in Arlington, three miles down the Little Kanawha River from Rock Cave.

My remembrances of that fifty mile trip from Elkins to Arlington, and the times spent on the farm with grandparents, cousins, aunts and uncles are all the more vivid because of the number of times we made the journey, and because I remember the trip and the whole farm experience through the eyes of a child. I suspect, and I sincerely hope, that most people, having grown up in our culture, have some very special and fond recollections of long-ago journeys which took them to "the farm" or to some other exotic destination.

In my earliest recollections of that trip we rode in a black 2-door Plymouth (model year 1941, I think) which I recall as being very dependable and totally utilitarian. In other words, it was not very flashy, but it got the job done.

 


Leaving
Elkins (on a trip to Arlington) I always remember looking for Harold Stoller's house on the western outskirts of town. Harold was a friend of mine whose father was a professor at D&E. Then I remember passing by mountains that were being strip-mined for coal, a process that Dad complained about vociferously. Sometimes we'd make a side trip to Junior and Belington where we would stop for a short visit with some Perry family relatives (whose identity I no longer recall, but if I ever wanted to know, I'd ask my brother the genealogist).

From that area we'd cross over a sizeable bridge and up a long hill on our way toward Ellamore, a locale which would always remind Dad of a story about baseball games between Ellamore and Tioga when he pitched for the Tioga ball club. Then it was on to Buckhannon, the largest town we encountered on our trip. It was roughly three-fourths of the way to our destination and was the home of Wesleyan College, which I believe is now called West Virginia Wesleyan. While in Buckhannon we would sometimes stop to see Aunt Henrietta who, I am told, lived to a typical Fidler-like age of ninety eight years.

From Buckhannon we drove on to French Creek, a picturesque little village revered in our family's heritage as the early destination of our forefathers who migrated there from New England. On our way out of French Creek we'd often stop at the state game farm to watch the deer and other animals cavorting in their native habitat.

My next memory point was Rock Cave, a typical tiny West Virginia farming community which was the home of many Fidler relatives and friends. In the late 1940's and early 1950's it was the location of The Meadows, a small private hospital for alcoholics and drug addicts founded by Uncle Kemp.


From Rock Cave it was just a hop, skip and jump down the river to the even smaller community of Arlington whose road sign always reminded us it was ‘unincorporated’. On the left side of the road, on the river banks, was the little country church where Grandpa Fidler brought us to worship on Sundays and to admire Uncle Russell's playing of the piano for the hymn singing. Just past the church a rocky dirt road to the right leads to the farm. Just past that turnoff, on the main road, was a covered bridge, which at some point in our history of going to Arlington, was replaced by a steel girder bridge.


The little church
in Arlington



Just to the left of the bridge in the river was the famous old Blue Hole, a swimming hole and the locus of many a tale told by Fidler story tellers. And just past the bridge on the left side of the road was an establishment dear to the hearts of summer kids like the Fidler cousins who referred to it simply as 'the store'. As small children we'd often accompany Grandpa Fidler, known locally by one and all as 'Uncle George', to the store to purchase food staples as directed by Grandma and Aunt Fern. As a reward for helping to carry the foodstuffs back to the farm we would receive a licorice stick or a candy cane.

But I digress, let me get back to our journey to the farm.

 
Steel girder bridge,
since replaced by
modern concrete bridge.
(Looking across swimming area
known as the "Blue Hole" )


About 1/3 mile on that aforementioned rocky dirt road, having passed one or two old homes on the right, you come to that magnificent white farm house that sits on a bluff overlooking the river, the lovely and gracious homestead of George and Sophronia Fidler. The eager anticipation of arriving at this beautiful and peaceful scene highlighted every trip to the farm.

Parking across the road from the house on the river bluff and looking across the valley you can see the store and a couple of homes. Behind those structures the mountain rises so abruptly and so high into the West Virginia sky, I can never remember, as a child, being able to see the top of the mountain.

Passing through the gate and walking toward the house across the front lawn on a path of large flat stones, the first things one notices are the large open porch fronting almost the entire width of the house and the large screened porch above it. This stone-based path had so many baseball pitches and football passes thrown over it that, on more than several occasions, participants were heard to exclaim, "I'd be a millionaire if I had just a nickel for every toss made over this path!"

 

The front porch was well-furnished with many comfortable wooden chairs and couches and also a swing on the right end. This was a site where Fidler kids spent many summer hours playing, especially on rainy days when we were not allowed to go swimming over in the Blue Hole, down at the Mill or the Slate Pencil Bank. Most afternoons we'd spend in the river at one of those swimming holes frequently joined by Aunt Jessie who lived down by the old Fidler Mill. The porch was also the scene of many a political debate and discussions of current major league baseball standings. And especially will I never forget the front porch being the arena where highly competitive fly-killing contests were conducted. I recall the summer Paula (the late Paula Johnson) was declared the Upshur County Fly-Killing champion. In the evenings after dark the front porch often took on a different flavor; then it became a place where ghost stories enthralled the young summer inhabitants, and the sounds of the creaking swing and rockers rocking punctuated the story-telling suspense.

Before we enter the house for an inside tour of the grand estate, let me briefly describe the farm scenes around the outside. Facing the front of the house to the left was Grandpa’s garden where all kinds of vegetables were grown, the most prominent being the corn. Now usually when we stayed at the farm in the summer time the corn was at its peak and the stalks were well over six feet high. Although looked upon with disfavor by the adults, smoking dried corn silk was a popular summer experience, but those who were discovered smoking were guaranteed punishment. On the right side of the house the spacious front yard continued, fenced in by a short picket fence to separate the yard from the barnyard behind the house.

The yard and the fence continued around the back of the house, and to the left rear were several apple trees that produce apples perfect for making apple butter, a quite popular summer chore. Into the huge vats in which the apple butter was cooked (a day-long process) we’d drop pennies which, at the end of the day’s cooking, came out all shiny and looking brand new.

Behind the fence extending to the left rear was a series of small buildings including the milking shed, the woodshed, the old outhouse which could still be used, a small corn crib. the chicken coop and the hog pens. Chickens roamed the barnyard and Grandpa always had one or two milk cows there as well. To the right of the front yard on the other side of the fence was a driveway through a gate and into the barnyard, used for the delivery and shipment of animals. On the other side of this driveway, with its door facing the road, was a white garage whose second floor contained Grandpa's workshop, another fascinating place for young summer visitors to play and to explore. Extending that service driveway back and to the right rear of the barnyard, it led past a large corn crib and an area where the hogs were butchered, and on up to the barn itself which was a good two hundred yards from the house, or a decent five wood shot from the side yard. The barn, as I remember it in the mid 1940s, was an old weather-worn black structure, which was beginning to experience its last days, though still being used in that era.

Behind the barn and continuing up the hill you came across a huge rock outcropping at the base of which was the spring that had supplied fresh water for the farm since its inception. To the right of the barn was a large fenced field that extended further up the hill and down to the road; it was used for growing hay and occasionally the cows would use it for grazing. Grandpa's property extended up the mountain past the spring to an area with many green gage plum trees. As small children we did not frequent the areas past the barn very often.

On the left side of the house was an entrance to a storage cellar where potatoes and other vegetables were kept.

Now that the outside tour is complete let us return to the front door of the main house for an inside look at its rooms and living areas. The front door, situated on the left side of the porch, leads directly into the great living room, by far the largest room in the house. Filled with comfortable stuffed chairs and sofas, it also contained a large gun cabinet and several bookshelves on the left side of the room, which stored, among hundreds of other books, the old family Bible, an accurate source of Fidler and McAvoy genealogies and vital statistics. An upright piano graced the left rear of the room and on the right rear wall hung the old clock driven by heavy metal cylinders hanging on brass chains. Every week Grandpa would wind up the clock by pulling the weights back to the higher position. A large picture window on the right front of the room looked out onto the porch, across the river and some fields and to the store and up the mountain beyond. I remember enjoying that marvelous view every day I stayed at the farm.

On the right wall was the wonderful coal fireplace which always seemed to be burning, even during the summer time. Coal was stored in a room in the back of the house behind the kitchen and I remember retrieving coal in buckets as one of my chores. The fireplace itself had a wooden mantle and frontispiece which was quite beautiful. A handsome buck head also graced the frontispiece, the identity of its hunter and the accompanying story had been lost in antiquity. My favorite memories of that fireplace as a small child were sending letters to Santa Claus up the chimney and popping corn in wire baskets in the evenings.

Other great memories of the living room were the heated political debates that were enjoined sitting around the fire and the wonderful Rook tournaments conducted at card tables set up in the middle of the room after dinner each evening; these hotly contested events often lasted until bedtime.

On both sides of the fireplace were doors that led to the only downstairs bedroom, the one used by Grandma and Grandpa. Sadly, my clearest memories of that room were of the latter period of Grandma's life when she was too ill to enjoy her family.

At the right rear of the living room a hall led back to the bathroom (on the left) and to the kitchen. Another deer's head graced the entrance to this hallway. Grandpa's house was the first in the county to have inside plumbing and that bathroom was his pride and joy. Just before reaching the kitchen entrance a stairway to the other bedrooms was on the right, three steps up the stairway turned right and up to a hallway leading right and the first bedroom on the left. It seems to me this first room was reserved for newlyweds and/or younger couples for it had more privacy than the other rooms. Its window looked out over the side yard.

 

The next bedroom, a large one down the hall on the left, was the one our family used most of the time we visited the farm. I'll never forget the night a cat gave birth to several kittens in the bed covers at the foot of the bed. I guarantee no one in the room slept through that experience. A door from that room led out to the screened porch where many kids could sleep in the summer time. Another small bedroom was to the right off the screened porch. Back out in the hall to the left was the other bedroom, quite large, which was situated over the left side of the living room. I remember this room being the one Aunt Fern and her family often used.

Back downstairs at the kitchen entrance you’d immediately notice the kitchen sink and wash area on the left side and the large black wood stove on the back wall. It was on this stove that Grandma and Aunt Fern produced meals of fresh vegetables, fried chicken, hot rolls with fresh creamery butter, mashed potatoes . . . food that would melt in your mouth . . . and oh those desserts. My favorites were the rice pudding (simply called 'rice' because that's the only way we ate rice), apple pie and butterscotch pie. Although not one of my favorite desserts, Grandma Fidler was famous for her mincemeat pie. Dad’s favorite was the whipped cream pie. My favorite meal of all produced in that kitchen was the breakfast of buckwheat cakes and pure maple syrup with lots of fresh butter and accompanied by country sausage. I still lie awake at nights thinking how good that food tasted.

Fried chicken was a staple in the Fidler diet and those who fried the chicken for our meals had truly perfected the art. One thing I had in common with Grandpa was our preference for the dark meat; he and I always vied for the drumsticks and second joints.

On the front wall of the kitchen to the right was a large work table and cabinet, beyond which to the right was the door to the dining room. The dining room could also be entered from Grandma’s bedroom and it had a table large enough to seat twelve to fifteen people, depending on how large they were. The windows of this room looked out on the side yard and it was always a very bright room. My favorite story about the dining room was the visiting skunk story: one summer day a skunk found its way into the house and walked all around exploring the downstairs rooms . . . everyone just stood still afraid to take any action for fear the skunk would douse us with its famous perfume. As it wandered back into the kitchen Aunt Fern, determined that polecat would not enter her dining room, stood at the entrance with a broom ready to swat it away. The skunk, undaunted, walked right between her legs into the dining room and then continued his tour of inspection, eventually leaving the house with no harm done except for shattered nerves all around. Did Jimmy kill that skunk with his .22 rifle? Despite his claims, I never saw the evidence!

Just beyond the dining room door in the kitchen another door led out to the left to a series of small rooms used for laundry, icebox and food storage, coal storage and two exits, one to the side yard and one to the back yard.

That marvelous home and the loving grandparents who established it, and whom we all loved so much, are gone now ... but our memories of the house and the fellowship of kindred spirits we enjoyed there will live in our hearts and in our dreams.

It was always a sad time when we had to leave the farm and return to Elkins. But the eager anticipation of the next visit would begin immediately, providing hope and inspiration for another day.

                    -Bill Fidler





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